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April 12, 2021

1959 Dash Lights Not Working


I'm starting with a basic question for you, my dash lights are not working. I'm technical savvy enough to know it's a fuse or the headlight switch. I have the Service Manual to trace the wiring diagram to try and locate the dash light fuse but can't seem to find it, but all of the fuses in the fuse box under the dash are all good. What fuse controls the dash lights so I can double check it to insure its not a fuse before I go behind the dash to remove the headlight switch and send it to you for a replacement. Also since everything is so brittle under the dash can you let me in on any tips or tricks on getting that headlight switch out "easily".

This may be another electrical question for you. My fuel gauge will only go up to 3/4 on the gauge even if the gas tank is full, however when the fuel in the tank goes down to 3/4, the gauge will read correctly and follow the fuel level to empty. - I insured the tank sending unit has a good ground. - I bought a new tank sending unit with the same error in the gas gauge reading. - When I operate the tank sending unit by hand I get the same error in the gas gauge reading. So..the problem is in the gauge, either the gauge (or the entire dash cluster is not grounded properly or the gauge is bad. Any suggestions as how to trouble shoot this? If your suspect a bad ground in the dash cluster how can i go about fixing this. Are there diagrams where the grounds are since this repair is getting pretty close to the extent of my "pay grade".

I can/t get my high beams to come on. When I hit the floor button I DO hear a relay click and there IS a (normal) momentary flicker of the low beams as you would expect when you engage the high beams..but no high beams. The head lamps are good. I'm sure my "Autronic-Eye" headlight dimmer needs repair so can you tell me what I need to take off the car and who I can send it to to get my "Autronic-Eye" headlight dimming system to work? I also am not sure even if I am working it correctly so are there any "Autronic-Eye Headlight Operations for Idiots" book available? Lastly is there a way to by-pass the system so as the unit is being repaired I would have use of my high beams.

As the car is 62 years old, it's butt is sagging a little. Put new coil springs in the rear 10 years ago and car was in storage for the last 9 years but I would like to get my back end up about 2" - 3". I'm afraid another set of "new" coils will not do much to raise me up. Are their "Cargo Coil" springs available that you know of that could achieve the lift I'm after or is there a place that I can have coil springs custom made with a little extra height to achieve the 2-3" lift I'm after, especially if I have 2 passengers in the back seat or luggage in the trunk. If so, how do I get the specification numbers to send them to get the springs made?

When I connect the wires from my radio to my power antenna all seems well, the antenna goes up when I turn the radio on as it should HOWEVER when it is full extended it keeps "grinding" try to keep going up and the motor gets really hot really fast. I bought a second power antenna for a 59 Lincoln and it does the same thing which leads me to think its in the radio or I'm hooking or not hooking up something correctly.




Hi Tom -

1959 Lincoln.....Nice car!!

The dash lighting circuit is protected by a circuit breaker within the H/L switch. An internal dimmer coil is also included for dash light dimming. If your bulbs are ok and you strongly suspect the headlamp switch ( these do give problems in many cases ), you could send the switch to us at Lincoln Land for inspection. We will test the switch properly and suggest the best way for you to proceed in order to repair the situation correctly.

We are not aware of any special brittle issues with these Lincolns under the dash. Because the switch can be difficult to remove and replace, call us before you remove the Headlight switch though and Erik will advise you with a couple of helpful removal tips. Just be careful and use the correct fitting tools when working on old vehicles under the dash . Also be sure to use good under dash work lamps to see clearly what you are doing.

It's good that you have the FoMoCo Shop Manual as the complete fuel gauge system and operation explanation for testing is shown starting on page 10-6. The CVR (constant voltage regulator) in the circuit is the next very popular Item that fails. This unit when it fails can cause the fuel gauge and the temperature gauges to become inaccurate. We replace many of these at Lincoln Land.

Your Shop Manual also contains a great complete operation/description etc. of the Auto Dim operation as well as how to make the system operate manually. This section starts on page 13-35. We do have limited used parts available for these systems.

In regards to your Coil Springs, we do have them available for sale, and they have been used without complaint. They are made very close to Factory specs - they are Special Order and fabricated to Order and can not be returned due to that fact.

Lastly, your Antenna. We no longer service any Power Antennas here at Lincoln Land due to scarcity of Parts and the fragility of the components.

Good luck on your diagnosis of your concerns, you'll find that your Factory Shop Manual is your best friend. Without having the car here and using that Manual, we can really be of no further assistance.



April 6, 2021

1977 Mark V - Tracking Down A Noise

Hi Bill,

Thanks for all you do for us Lincoln owners!

I have an interesting question to ask...one that I have not seen on your forum.

Today, I took my 1977 Lincoln Mark V with a 460 four-barrel to a local transmission shop to swap out a leaking transmission gasket (minor leak in the area of the bell housing). About three days before (Saturday) I brought it to them, my car began making a loud noise that sounds EXACTLY like a driver's side exhaust manifold leak, or even crack. It's loud enough that you can hear it when the car is driving by you and gets louder on revving or acceleration. I asked the mechanic doing the transmission work to diagnose it and he says he does not believe the sound is coming from the manifold. They believe it is coming somewhere from the front of the intake manifold area and they do not want to take on the job to further diagnose or repair.

The only other clue I have for you is that there was a little bit of ticking prior to the noise becoming Much louder...the kind of ticking one would associate with a small manifold gasket leak, or noise from inside the valve cover.

The car has 47,000 miles. Is there anything involving the intake manifold, which, in your experience would cause a sound exactly like a cracked or leaking exhaust manifold? It is almost certainly coming from the drivers side front of the vehicle and is louder forward of the wheel when you're on the ground than behind the wheel when you're on the ground.

Thank you again. Any insight would be much appreciated.



Southampton, MA


Hi Andy -

The only advice that I can think of without being there and hearing the actual leak is for you to visit a well-known local muffler/exhaust shop. One of their techs can use their stethoscope to pinpoint the actual leakage and then possibly repair it. This is where we would probably begin the diagnosis at Lincoln Land. We will have easy access to any parts for you that may be needed for the repair etc. Good luck!



April 5, 2021

1964 Continental Slips Into Reverse

Good morning Bill -

My 1964 Lincoln sometimes slips into reverse on its own and other times when I try and start it it sounds like it's in gear and if I move the shifter level all the way down to low and back to park it usually remedies the situation and car starts fine. Also once running I believe the transmission works fine, i.e. smooth shifting etc. Thanks as always, Vinnie


Hi Vinnie -

What you are describing is a very common situation, but it is very uncomfortable for you and could be further detrimental if ignored.

You or your mechanic will need to inspect all of the transmission shift linkage from the shift lever to the transmission looking for wear/looseness and any bushings etc. that may be damaged. Pay close attention to the Parking Pawl that the shift lever locks into in the steering column. Also check the Steering Column Bushings and Sleeve. Another possibility is that the engine and or the transmission mounts have rotted out and are now useless. This could allow the engine and transmission to look ok at the mounts but rotate or shift around slightly during " torque situations" enough to change the manual shifter settings. Please check out all the above asap to avoid further damage. We will have any parts available for you if needed. Good luck with the diagnosis and let us know what you find defective so that we can let other customers know.