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January 28, 2021

1976 Mark IV New Owner Questions

Bill -

I have come into a low mile (36K actual) 1976 Mark IV, a very nice ride out on the road! I have gone through purging systems and changing fluids, etc. and added new tires and shocks. Would like to add a stronger set of sway bars to bring handling closer to current standards and was considering the Addco units. Any thoughts or recommendations on sway bars? Car seems to want to vapor lock after stopping motor for a few minutes. Has new fuel pump, filter and carb kit. The only thing I have found that stops this is running recreational fuel (no ethanol). Other thoughts? Finally, the air conditioning refrigerant system has been purged and tested good with R134 conversion. I only get about a 12 degree drop on recirc. There is no apparent heater control valve on this car and I am guessing the blend door is not closing off heat fully. Should I place a manual or vacuum shut-off valve on the heater core (inlet or outlet)?? This is a fair weather only driven car and have never called upon the heat functions. Low and medium speeds just failed on the Autotemp/blower while driving last Summer. High works fine but is a bit noisy. Fuse, relay and resister all seem to check good. I'm suspicious it is not the switch since both speeds failed while driving and switch hard to change out. What am I missing??

Many thanks for sharing your wisdom!



Hi Greg -

The 76 Marks are getting more popular over the years and are beautiful cars. It sounds like you are going to be busy with this one for a while.

We can't recommend replacement or upgrades for the sway bars as the originals are known to be quite adequate amongst our customers.

If using "no ethanol" fuel corrects your vapor lock issue and your carburetor floats were checked and adjusted correctly you could try other brands of fuel or continue to use no ethanol fuel.

Your refrigeration problem could be:

* Over charged system
* Undercharged system
* Faulty exp. valve
* Faulty POA valve
* Faulty compressor
* Faulty ATC Controls
* Faulty or incorrect cooling fan or clutch
* Faulty or restricted condenser

The 76 Marks do have a water valve that is vacuum controlled by the ATC system.

Your loss of lower blower speeds could be:

* High Blower relay defective
* Blower resistor or its contacts defective

Noisy blower motor on Hi speed could be:

* Worn motor or seizing armature due to dry bushings that need oiling
* High resistance in the blower wiring or the ATC blower speed contact

The above are only some suggestions based on common faults that we see and repair at Lincoln Land very often. Accurate diagnosis is required in order to avoid replacing parts that are not defective. Your last question "what am I missing? " indicates that you or your technician is missing the necessary correct service manuals to diagnose, service and correct these issues on your new Mark IV. We wish you the best of luck in the diagnosis.


January 26, 2021

1966 Continental Lighting Issues

Bill -

I have a 66 Convertible with many lighting issues. This is a customers car that came in this way. It starts with the rear park lamps are illuminated all of the time, unless I disconnect the flasher switch. Also with the switch connected, when hitting the brakes all 4 turn signals light up, with the flasher switch disconnected they work as designed. With the switch connected and the turn signal on, it comes on all 4 corners. Disconnect the flasher switch and it all works as designed. Hook up the flasher switch and turn the low beam headlights on and they trip the breaker, disconnect the flasher switch and they work fine. I have an aftermarket wiring diagram for the car and no testing procedures unfortunately. I know that the 66 uses the weirdest most complicated signaling system of any car on the planet and could use some insight. I have tried 2 flasher switches and it is the same with both switches. The flashers never work and have never worked since the car came in. This is a non tilt column. Thanks for the help.



Hi Raymond -

After reading your issues with that 66 Lincoln convertible several times and not knowing what diagnosis you have actually performed so far, I can suggest the following for you to begin with.

That 66 probably has had some restoration work done to it on one or more occasions. They are very popular vehicles and many car lovers collect and restore them. We have seen these types of electrical issues emerge when the wiring etc. is not reassembled correctly as original during a restoration. The mechanic will then proceed for some unknown reason to wire the problem " his way " which will create even more faults. With the information that you have supplied I would start by looking visibly for possible problems at the wiring for the lighting and signals etc. and to perform continuity testing on the GROUND circuits especially . This should be done with the correct factory wiring diagrams at your side as they are easier to read and understand. These lighting faults could turn into an easy simple repair for you. However, if a previous tech has modified any of the factory wiring to his liking, the fix could be time consuming.

We at Lincoln Land will have the correct wiring diagrams available if you need them. We wish you a speedy diagnosis and repair.



January 21, 2021

1977 Town Car New Owner Questions


I recently bought a 1977 Lincoln Continental Town Car (Yellow Cream w/Leather) about a week ago. Bought it from a family who owned it since 1977. Now, I love the car so much and just want to get it into as good of a shape as I can. There are a few little hiccups with the car. 1) The automatic door locks do not lock or unlock. I hear a whirling noise from the back passenger side were it sounds like its trying to do something. 2) The A/C blows semi-cold air out (probably needs a charge) but only out of the defrost part and not the cabin vents. 3) Once the car is up and running it short of shakes/rumbles when it is at a stop (park/neutral/brakes). Maybe I am over thinking this as this is my first classic car. So, I know its a lot and any help would be very much appreciated. Thank you!



Greetings Phil -

Some of these electrical and vacuum problems can be difficult to diagnose and do require some extensive testing. Power door locks of this type usually need continuity testing through the individual switches, wiring and relays etc. With all of the locks not operating on your Lincoln as you describe, it sounds like your issues totally developed over a period of time with no repairing attempted as they occurred. Many times, in this kind of situation we find at Lincoln Land that wiring contacts (especially in the switches) are the culprits. I would advise you to "begin" by continuity testing at the drivers position switch and wiring with the use of the "correct wiring diagrams". We do have New Window Switches available if needed.

Your engine roughness indicates to me that your engine is possibly needing a major tune up asap or that a sizable vacuum leak has developed. A vacuum leak in the right spot can also affect the Automatic Climate Control system in big way as well. Many a/c problems are also caused by control parts that we can and do repair here at Lincoln Land on a regular basis. Please contact us for further assistance in any of these matters.



January 12, 2021

1973 Continental Sedan Door Lock Questions

Hello Bill -

Thank you for your help in the past! Now I have a new issue.

My front doors locks work fine however the rear doors will lock but not unlock when I press the button. My Ford repair manual section 44:16, tells me that the relay in under the drivers seat but I cannot find it. Do you know where I might locate it? Also, aside from the door switches and the relay, there is another switch inside of the door that has a single black wire attached to it. The repair manual calls it an electric door lock switch.Do you know what the function of this switch is? All of the four actuators work fine in both directions. do you have any ideals on what I should be looking for to fix my rear door locks?




Hi John -

Yes, the shop manual shows the relay to be located under the driver's seat. In order to access it, the seats as well as the carpet have to be removed. It should have five wires to it and is case ground. Two door models do not have a relay. The manual also explains how to test the relay but the electrical system is quite complicated and therefore requires the correct wiring diagram and electrical knowledge to understand how the system operates. Basically, you need to trace and inspect the wiring and switches for the rear door locks as per the wiring diagram in the non-operative unlock position with the use of the wiring diagram. Do not activate the door locks for a long period of time as they will over heat. Do you have a wiring diagram?

I do not know what door you are referring to but pure black wires ( no stripes or dots ) are usually used for ground wires. Check that switch for continuity to ground.

We do hope that some of these suggestions will help you in the diagnosis.

1969 Continental Sedan Power Seats

Hi Bill -

My 6 way power seats work - however they are very noisy when using the tilt positions. Any ideas? Thanks Bill.



Hi Paul -

Not knowing what sort of noise you are hearing or what if anything you have looked at or done to correct the noise, I will suggest the following. We would raise the seat to its full height to expose the underside and lube the jack screws liberally with chassis grease or equivalent and at the same time inspect for loose parts or misalignments. Then operate the seat to the extreme positions to distribute the grease. Also, you should put your hand on the seat transmission to see if you can feel anything that might point you to its internal gears that might need attention. Good luck to you with an easy fix.