" /> Bill's Corner: September 2020 Archives

« August 2020 | Main | October 2020 »

September 29, 2020

1979 Mark Stored For 30 Years...

Hi Bill,

I have been resurrecting a 1979 Mark V that was stored for 30 years. I have replaced everything in the fuel system all the way from the tank to the carb which I bought a new carb and recently rebuilt it. I've also replaced the ignition coil, control module, distributor, plugs and wires, and battery. Car will start up fine and idle for a few minutes then cut out. I have done a compression test and am getting 140 psi give or take 5 psi on every cylinder. Both wet and dry tests. I know for a fact I am getting ample fuel to the carb and the carb appears to be working fine. I just replaced the distributor because of a backfire and I wanted to set timing and the stock one was completely frozen in there so I replaced it. I have the timing set to a rough estimate to where it will start and idle. After 1-3 minutes the car will just shut off. It will start up again and die out soon after. What could be causing this? I am leaning towards a failing ignition control module or coil being that I just put on a electronic fuel pump that puts out the same PSI as the mechanical one so I know fuel is good with a good psi. What should I head towards? 400 6.6 L

Jace

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Jace -

Thirty years is a long time for any vehicle to sit unused with critical parts slowly deteriorating. What you describe sounds like common tune up items failing or parts that need adjusting. Some items such as the fuel filters etc. may need checking again now that the engine is now running. Were the ignition parts new that you replaced? Did you remove the fuel tank and the fuel sender for cleaning and to check for rust? The inside of the fuel tank and sending unit are subject to much corrosion after thirty years of non-use and old fuel. What is the fuel pressure at the carburetor at the point of the engine shutting off? Did this stalling issue surface before or after you began the restoration? Did you do the necessary final adjustments on the carb after the engine was warmed up? Is the choke plate opening completely as designed when the engine is warmed to operating temperature? Performing a rough estimate on the ignition timing with a problem vehicle that has not been running for a long time is not really good enough.

The above suggestions may only be a beginning list of some items for you to check or recheck. We wish you lots of luck with the restoration. Those 79 Marks are great Lincolns.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 28, 2020

1965 Convertible Window Issues & Follow Up

Hi Bill,

I've purchased quite a bit of parts from Lincoln Land Patti!!! (Great lady!) I searched the blog and some really great stuff on here! Thanks for sharing with us! I have a question with my auto down and up rear windows. First thing, all window up and down work from all switches before and after the cleaning project. Going into my window mechanism cleaning and lubing project, the driver rear window auto down did not work, however if I rolled the window up to 5" - 6" from top, the auto up would work if I tricked it into thinking it was there. However the auto up and down worked fine on the passenger rear door. Questions: 1. After the lube/fixing/adjusting of the passenger rear door I have found that the window goes down "too fast" and goes past the limiter switch point where it thinks the window is all the way down and not just 6" down, this is why the auto up does not work. Essentially I "fixed" it too good :). The motor does go down about 2 times faster than the others but is all original parts. How can I go about correcting this? I was looking at adding a resistor but if the motors are drawing up to 10 amps that's a BIG resistor. Any help here would be appreciated. 2. What's the first thing I should look at to see why the auto-drop down doesn't work but auto up does when in range? Thanks again for all of your knowledge on here! I am sure I will have more questions in the future so thanks in advance.

Alan

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Alan -

Erik and I discussed your issue and we both agree that some item or items were re-assembled incorrectly somehow. We believe that the spring is in the wrong position.

When the unit is assembled correctly, the spring winds up when the window moves down and then releases its power when the window travels up. This equalizes the speed of operation in both directions. We at Lincoln Land of course cannot see how it is assembled so therefore you may need to send us a photo or two if the problem cannot be easily seen. Please be extremely careful when handling that assembly in that condition. Wear protective hand and headgear.

Please let us know what you discover.

Bill & Erik

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yeah my father was saying the same thing. I put it back the way the previous person had it, however I am wondering if they didn't reengage the spring. Tighten it or whatever as the window always has gone down faster than the rest, however it's worse now that I lubed and adjusted everything. Dirt packed grease tends to slow things down apparently. I will check it out and let you guys know what I find out.

Thanks,

Alan

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bill -

I wanted to update this. The spring was engaged but wasn't wound tight enough. After I reset the spring to how it's supposed to be all is well! Also, note to everyone - be sure and lube those coil springs where they meet the regulator or you could have some squeaking. A little lube goes a long way!

Thanks,

Alan

September 25, 2020

1964 Hard Start, Charging Issues

Good Morning Bill -

My question for you is my 64 Lincoln has a hard time starting and then holding a charge. I've installed a new battery, alternator, electric fuel pump and neutral safety switch. Now I want to make this as reliable as possible for the wife and baby. Where should I start if my battery is at 11 v after the car has been running for an hour? Chances are it won't start again. If the heat is on, the battery drops off and rebounds back to 12.4v. Should I just throw parts at it, and if so what do you suggest. I know I'm rambling - so ignition, solenoid, distributor or any thing else beyond that could be replaced to new is my goal.

Sincerely,

Jason

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello Jason -

You don't advise us if the engine does not crank properly or if it cranks properly and will not start or if it cranks and starts only with a battery boost at these "no start" times.

From your information supplied I would begin by having your mechanic with the proper test equipment do a charging system inspection. After the above is found to be up to par or repaired the battery should be charged with a good charger to just above 12 volts and then load tested. If all is well, I would test to find out if something in the electrical system is pulling power from the battery etc. when the car is not in use.

Of course, your ignition system and all tune up and fuel delivery items should be maintained in good condition.

All of the above are good items to check first and are common defects that we see very often. We wish you the best of luck in finding the problem quickly.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 23, 2020

1979 Town Car Fuel Delivery Issues - New Owner

Hi there Bill!

Back in March I bought myself a beautiful 79 Town Car in turquoise. I am only 3rd owner and am only going to be the second registered owner of the car! When I bought her she only had 100,712km on her (62579miles). The car only had 1 vaccume leak on the wipers and other then that all of the vaccume lines are fine and work perfectly. All of my power features work including my original cartier clock. My car also came with the old CAA maple leaf badge on my grill. When I bought the car she would run. Up until recently before I replaced the fuel pump she stopped turning over so we put some gas down the carb and she fired over. But since I've replaced the pump there is no gas dropping into the Carberator. I know it is getting passed the pump because I have replaced the fuel filter and I mistakenly didn't tighten the clamp all the way and the end of the hose was wet with gasoline, but if i take the filter off and crank the engine then I get nothing out the hose. Im also woundering if the clamp on the rubber hose between the fuel line and the pump isn't tight enough anymore from a struggle getting it off. All I know is when the fuel filter is on fuel is getting too the filter and past it but not dropping into the Carb, im also not sure if the pump is pulling enough gas and instead is pulling more air from where the rubber hose is on the pump.

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks for your question...

Do you have a Factory Shop Manual for the Vehicle? Also - I can not pull up your Lincoln Land Account using your Name or Phone Number, as they were not included with your comments. Your Customer Number should be the Phone Number on your first Receipt for purchases from Lincoln Land without the Area Code - please let me know.

Sincerely,

George @ Lincoln Land

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi there again,

I have not bought a part from Lincoln land for a while, and the part was my fuel pump. I no longer have the receipt but the name on the order should have been ***-**** and David ************. The issue that I am having is very strange. When I pump the accelerater I get no gas dropping into the Carberator, and when I crank the engine no sign of fuel even getting to the carb. I changed the carbs fuel filter in hopes it would be the issue but after replacing it still nothing. I cranked the engine a few times with the new filter on and realised I did not tighten the receiving end enough and did see gas leaking from the very end of the hose(because it wasent clamped tight enough) and the fuel filter also smells a lot like gas (only since I have cranked the engine) the end of the filter tip was also wet with gasoline. An issue I think it could be is an air leak at my pump due too the old clamp on the rubber hose is not very tight, i am able to pull the hose off without loosing the clip first. That hose, if i stick the end of my finger in or a peice of cloth also has a very small amount of gas (sometimes) ive followed my line all the way back and don't see any leaks. I also see no holes or leaks in the rubber hose connecting the tank too the line. However the metal hose the rubber one is attached too on the tank is rather rusted out and im woundering could it also just be my fuel sending unit at the tank?

David

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello David -

If you suspect an issue with any rubber fuel hoses, they and their clamps should be renewed with fresh ones. Next, the inside of the fuel line from the tank to the fuel pump could be tested for a blockage of some sort. Your last sentence in your second email mentions a lot of rust on the metal tube at the sending unit fuel outlet and that suggests to me that the sending unit may have a rusted pickup tube inside the tank. The tube in the tank could be perforated or broken in such a way that some air is being ingested into the fuel delivery system by the fuel pump. The sending unit in the tank would need to be removed in order to examine it properly for damaging corrosion etc. I am assuming of course that you have adequate fuel in the tank.

If all of the above was found to be in good order, a fuel pump pressure and volume test should be performed next. You did not answer Georges question when he asked if you have a proper FoMoCo shop manual for your new 79 Town Car. These shop manuals contain information that is very necessary for anyone performing their own maintenance and repairs.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 18, 2020

1974 Mark IV Stored For 15 Years New Owner Questions and Updates

Hi Mr. Bill,

Thank you for taking the time to read this. My husband just bought me a 74 Mark IV to restore, enjoy, and show (love old cars). I've never really dealt with ford besides my Galaxy 500 Convertible. Anyway, this car was 1 owner and has been sitting in the garage for at least 15 yrs (still has 230-15 tires that look new...lol). It is all original and it is going to stay that way (I'm a purist). My question is, can it, or should it be started after sitting so long? We did bust it off for a few seconds with carb cleaner, and she did come to life (major exhaust leak). I will be putting Marvel Mystery Oil into the spark plug holes and the upper heads (will remove valve covers). Is this OK (it was running when parked)? Oil is still clean and full, trans fluid is still cherry red, antifreeze still looks and smells like antifreeze.

Thanks again,

Jeannette

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Jeannette -

Welcome to Lincoln Land with your New Mark IV. Fifteen years is a long time for an automobile to sit unused or started but your email indicates some very good points. The fact that the engine oil, transmission fluid and coolant are clean suggests that these fluids may have been changed before storage. The other procedures that you are planning to do sure can't hurt either. To answer your question, yes of course it should be started after sitting so long. I would remove all of the old fuel from the gas tank first though and replace it with new clean fuel. The old fuel should be inspected for signs of rust and corrosion which could mean a rusted gas tank. The brake fluid should also be checked for proper level in the master brake cylinder and the brakes should be operated and checked for good operation. An exhaust leak as loud as you describe should be repaired as soon as possible as this noise makes it difficult to concentrate on any restoration when the engine needs to be running.

When you do get it running and are test driving this Mark, be prepared to find more issues at any time such as tires that are rotted, any rubber coolant hoses and vacuum lines that are leaking etc. These types of things could very likely appear at any time. The a/c should be turned on by an a/c technician for the first time. It will probably have lost its refrigerant charge after all of these dormant years.

Good luck to you with your project and we do hope that you will be enjoying this Mark IV real soon. When you can, please send us some photos.

Sincerely,

Bill

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bill -

Thank you so much for your response!! I have drained all the gas from the tank (it was redish brown, consistency of brake fluid, and stunk like i have never experienced....lol). I did bust her off a few times with carb cleaner after getting her home(headlight covers came down, so excited about that). I have a new fuel filter installed and I am waiting on a new fuel pump(i work on older outboards and always replace the fuel pump and filter first). Before actually test driving her, I plan on replacing all hoses and belts, replacing wheel cylinders(possibly calibers as well), and getting 5 new tires(always need a good spare). I was worried about firing it up(for real) the first time, but, you have lessened my fears on doing damage. I plan on changing the oil, antifreeze, and purging the brake system as well (auto trans I don't like to break open at all unless 100% necessary). My husband is kind of irritated because I am a purist and will be keeping the points, rear drum brakes (I actually like drums), original radio with 8 track (will be sending it to be restored to working order), original tire size and brand (Michelin with white walls...lol), and I found a guy with a few cans of R12 he will sell me in case I need it (don't want to convert to 134A if I don't have to because of the whole keeping it original plan).

I'm attaching a few pics (the back of the hood is dirty because i couldn't reach it while it was still on the trailer...lol)

Again, thank you for giving me hope that she will breath fire again safely :-)

Jeannette

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Jeannette -

Thank you for the pictures. Those 1974 Marks are real head turners. They are very luxurious cars and can be a pleasure to own and drive when they are brought back to life.

It appears from your post that you have a well thought out plan for the start of the restoration. We at Lincoln Land look forward to supplying you with some of the parts that you will need. Again, we wish you the best of luck with the project.

Sincerely,

Bill

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Again Bill,

Well, she breaths fire and everything except the heat/ac and the radio. I am planning on sending the original radio out to be restored so no problem there. My question is, how to i fix the heat/ac? The compressor comes on when set for ac, but, the blower motor does nothing. Any input on how to fix this would be appreciated! To keep you updated, the exhaust is off at the manifolds(replacing flange ends and donuts as the manifolds are still perfect) and she is on blocks so i can replace the tires and work on the brakes.

Thanks so much for everything!!

Jeannette

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jeannette -

I would begin at the blower motor wiring. With your shop manual, test for power at the blower motor feed with the system turned on. If there is power and no action, the blower motor could be bad or seized and would need replacing. If there is no power at this time you would need to use the 1974 wiring diagram in the shop manual to trace the circuit electrically to find the fault or faults. The correct shop manual also explains the automatic control operation for the 1974 Mark IV.

If you scroll down in "Bill's Corner" to August 24 2020, you can read the blower motor problem, diagnosis and repair on that gentleman's 1975 Mark IV.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 9, 2020

1969 Continental Sedan Leaking...

Hi Bill -

My car is leaking coolant from under the car from a spongy looking box.

I am quite sure it is not a frost plug. Is it likely the heater core? Thanks Bill. Any info would help.

Paul

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Paul -

Take a clear picture of the leaking area and send it to us. If you cannot take a picture, take the car to someone ( your mechanic or a radiator shop ) who can pinpoint the leak for you. We can then possibly determine what is leaking and arrange to send you the necessary repair part or parts. We cannot see the leak from here of course, therefore my opinion without more information would be flawed and worthless.

Sincerely,

Bill