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March 18, 2020

1966 Turn Signal Issue

Hi Bill

I have a 1966 that when I activate turn signal right or left, the indicators on the dash flash, but exterior turn signal bulb only lights up with no flashing. Emergency flashers are OK. Any good advice from Florida?

Best Regards -

├ůmund
Norway

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Hi Amund -

Welcome to Bill's corner. The 1966 Lincoln has a very complicated turn signal system therefore the FoMoCo service manual and wiring diagram is a necessity for any one attempting to diagnose and repair their own electrical. As well, two types of turn signal switches were used. Vehicles with the optional tilt steering wheel installed (built by GM) use a GM turn signal switch. The standard column uses the FoMoCo switch. We would also like to know what you or your mechanic have checked so far to correct this issue?

Do the dash indicators flash normally or do they flash only once or twice and then stop? There are two relays under the hood in the relay box near the power brake booster on the inner fender panel that can also create problems. It is also important for you to know that any wiring or flasher changes/modifications to this system can also upset the operation in a very negative way. Another cause that is appearing lately is the addition of LED type of bulbs by the owner to any part of the flasher wiring. This 1966 flasher design relies on a fixed load for the relays to operate correctly. Incorrect bulbs will change the load and the flashers will not operate. Please send us any additional information that you may have so that we can advise you further in the correct direction.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill

Original steering column without tilt.

Indicator bulb's glasses as normal.

All exterior bulb's are original. No LED.

Relay on inner fender makers one "click".

I did change the turn signal switch a few years ago and it's been working Well since that.

I'm an electrician and have rebuilt the relay package for the cab/top myself with modern 40 and 200Amp relay, and it's working fine.

No alteration have been made on the electric wiring system.

Was working as normal when stored away last Autumn in Norway.

Hope this was of some help.

Best Regards

├ůmund

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Hi Amund -

Thanks for your reply. It is good to hear that you are an electrician for this complicated system. Do you have the needed manual and proper wiring diagram etc. that I discussed in my first reply? I also mentioned not one but two relays in the relay panel. You reported that one relay clicks, but both relays would need to be qualified as per the wiring diagram. A relay that"clicks" as you have reported is of course not proof of a relay that is capable of transferring power internally from one contact to another. We disassemble the relays here at Lincoln Land and bench test them for proper operation and conductivity. We then polish the contacts if all is well and then reassemble them. Any that fail are rebuilt as necessary or replaced.

We will include a copy of the wiring diagram showing the relays, turn signal flasher and switches for you to use in your diagnosis. We certainly hope that this will help you with a speedy fix.

Sincerely,


Bill

March 10, 2020

1976 Mark Vibration

Hi Bill,

A few months ago the clutches in the trans started giving up and I had my trans people do a full rebuild.

The trans shifts perfectly again, smooth and sure... BUT, when picked up the car I now have a bad vibration at 1750 rpms. ( or driving at 45-50 mph. ) its not drive-line related at its there without the car moving. It's in the seat, steering wheel etc... like an electric toothbrush on on steroids. VERY harsh.

First order of business was to swap in a NEW, not rebuilt torque converter with absolutely NO CHANGE.

You would think that when you hold it at 1750 ( in park ) rpms a exhaust pipe was bent into the crossmember but that's all OK too. When you go above 1750 rpms Poof it completely disappears... come back down its there.... or drop to 1700 and its gone too.
When I put a tach o the car, set idle to 1750 rpms, lay under the car and put my hand on the crossmember it is buzzing horribly (all mounts are new too) I have none of this sensation on my 72 - IV. I don't particularly feel it in the trans pan, more though in the center of the trans case itself.

We are going to pull it all again, remove the converter and throw a couple of bolts in the transmission to run car to isolate the trans from turning.
If the vibration is still there they want to have another flywheel on hand to swap in as a test to rule that out while they are there.

My question for you is, I want to have a flywheel on hand. Should I go with a new or used part to swap in. Regarding the trans rebuild, anything you can think of that would vibrate in there? Is there a gear that could have gone in the wrong was, something too tight in there? Could worn gears that wore together then get assembled in another orientation cause this?

Again, Hope you are enjoying the winter in Florida, I really appreciate your time and knowledge.

Regards,

Richard

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Hi Richard -

If the flywheel is proven faulty or is damaged somehow, it should only be replaced by a NEW FORD supplied replacement if available. A correct used one should only be installed it is absolutely "Known" to be a good one in all respects.

I would have no idea what is causing your vibration without having the vehicle here to inspect. I would place the vehicle on a front end alignment style of ramps so as to have the wheels supported as they would be on the ground. The vibration could then be checked properly at 1750 rpms from underneath. I will say however that in this case if this issue was created by the transmission overhaul and the same technicians are now checking it for you , that is the best way to go. If we can help you further please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill