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December 30, 2019

1969 Sedan Fan Question

Hi Bill -

My 69 4 door Continental with Factory AC has a regular fan is this correct or is original equipment a clutch fan.

Thank you.

Paul

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Greetings Paul -

Your 69 Lincoln with "factory installed air conditioning" would have been equipped with a thermostatic fan clutch along with an aggressive six bladed solid fan assembly. This combination provides excellent air flow at low speeds and quiet operation at higher speeds. We would have the necessary (new) fan clutch and correct good used fan blade available for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 20, 2019

1969 Mark Seal Question

Hello Bill,

My name is Don and have questions about front seal in timing cover behind crank driven power steering pump on my 69 Mark III. My Lincoln Technical Data manual for Mark III states that timing cover must be removed to replace this seal. The manual also shows on page 8-34, figure 29, a picture that looks like seal is installed from inside. That would explain why timing cover would need to be removed. If this is wrong, and seal is installed from front side of cover, does the lip of seal just press against hub of pump, or does it go around the hub of pump ? It seems impossible to get that seal to fit around that raised hub of casting when sliding pump into position on crankshaft. What type of sealant should be used between the seal and aluminum timing cover? Any information about this critical procedure will be greatly appreciated.

Thank You

Don

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Hi Don -

That seal is installed to the outside of the cover from the outside of the front cover. A little gasket sealant on the front cover where the seal contacts is a good idea. The pressure from the pump presses on the seal lip to keep it in place. The pump must also have its mounting pads and bolt bushings attached for alignment. The two mounting bolts for the pump have shoulders on them to prevent over tightening. Your manual is incorrect for a crank mounted pump to front cover seal installation. The above statements are for a 1969 MK III that has not been altered in this area. Did nobody notice the seal position when the pump was removed.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 16, 2019

1961 Blower Motor Issues

Hi Bill,

First off thanks your advice to all the folks on here and for providing a place to find hard to get parts (I have ordered a few things from yall in the past). I am having a little trouble with a '61 sedan. The blower for a/c only activates when turned to heat, as soon as the position knob is turned to vent or a/c the blower immediately quits. I have checked the vacuum hoses on the back of the knob and all appear to be connected correctly and I can hear an audible click from the compressor engaging so it appears the switch is working correctly. Not sure where to go from here.

Brandon

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Hi Brandon -

That problem with the blower is not uncommon. Your 61 has three blowers. Two blowers are used for heat, One is located behind the left wheel kickup splash panel and the other is located behind the right wheel kickup panel. The third should be located under the hood on the engine side of the firewall inside a casing near the center for the a/c. I would first check the electrical at this blower ( if access is easy ) for power there with the car running and the a/c on. This design is unusual and somewhat complicated. If power is there at that blower then the blower ground could be loose or disconnected. If you have power in to that motor and the ground is good, that motor could be faulty. If there is power to that motor, the Vacuum Transfer Switch that is located behind the panel at the rear of the LF wheel could be faulty or not activated. This switch receives vacuum from the dash a/c control switch in a/c mode. It then uses this vacuum to operate the transfer switch to electrically disconnect the two heater motors and turn on the a/c motor. The problem there can be no vacuum or low vacuum from the main control switch due to leaks or a bad electric connection at that transfer switch or an bad internal connection inside that switch. In the end it may be much easier for you to send this switch to us for testing. We may be able to rebuild this switch for you or replace with a good used one if it proves faulty.

The wiring diagrams and operation with drawings should be shown in your shop manual. I do hope that you have the correct manual. They are very necessary and can save time and money.

Sincerely,

Bill

1979 Mark Park Light Issues

Bill,

I have a '79 Mark V and the parking lights will randomly turn off and on when you have the headlights on. The headlights are not affected, but all of the other ones that would come on including the front and rear parking lights and the side marker lights along with those lights between the side windows and opera windows. A new headlamp switch was purchased from Lincoln Land and installed in January of 2018 which fixed the problem until about a month ago when the problem started again. Not sure what could be causing that or why the headlamp switch would mess up again after less than two years, if that is the issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Mason

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Hello Mason -

Please inspect the wires and plug in at the headlamp switch. Correct any loose wires or connections that are found. Move the h/l switch connector while plugged in while testing with the park lamps turned on. This test is for loose contacts at the switch. If no issues are discovered, we may need the switch sent back to Lincoln Land for testing. Please call George at our office and let him know what you have found.

Sincerely,

Bill

66 Turn Signal Issues

Hey Bill,

Our signal indicators on our 66 Continental are not working. They will work with the emergency flashers, just not the turn signal.The turn signal relay with 3 wires in the engine compartment is where I'm thinking the problem is. There is a orange-yellow stripe wire, blue wire, and white wire. with the key on, I'm getting hot to the orange-yellow wire and the white wire. I never get anything to the blue wire no matter what I do. Does this sound like a bad relay? Thanks for the help.

Colby

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Hi Colby -

The 1966 Lincolns were built with a unique and complicated turn signal and four way flasher system. In addition the turn signal switch is very different if your 66 had the Tilt Steering Wheel option. This tilt wheel column for 1966 was built for FoMoCo by GM and uses a GM T/S switch.

In any case, your suspicion that the faulty indicators could be due to a faulty relay is very valid. The relay location that you believe to be faulty also houses a second relay that often fails also. Because of the complex nature of this design I think that you should remove both of these relays and send them to our shop. Here at Lincoln Land we will test them. If a fault is found there a good chance that we can rebuild them here for you. If they are in good operating order we will send them back to you and move on to the next step. The wire colors for the second relay are shown in your shop manual. When you decide please call George at our office and he will arrange this for you. Going this route will avoid replacing parts that are not defective.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 12, 2019

78 Mark New Owner Heat AC Question

Bill -

I just bought this Mark V, it has been sitting for 12 years in a controlled climate environment. When I started it, it was revving fairly high, thought maybe the choke wasn't releasing and tried to get it to release but it wouldn't. So just before I started to drive it I played with the heater controls and low behold when I put it on economy vent it idled down, couldn't get the heater to work but it stopped the revving and drove decently for the trip home. So, is there something with the vacuum system that needs attention or is the issue else where?

Jim

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Hi Jim -

Welcome to the land of Lincolns and congratulations on your Mark V purchase.

What have you checked so far to diagnose your issues? Your sticking choke could be the result of 12 years of inactivity and/or related carburetor adjustments. I have no idea from the information that you have provided if any vacuum system needs attention. Complete loss of vacuum to the heater / air conditioning system though will immediately result in full heat and defrost. A " no heat" problem could be as simple as low coolant in the engine cooling system, a sticking (open) engine thermostat or sticking (closed) water shut off valve. I also do not know what "I played with the heater controls" consists of. The Economy Vent selection will disengage the a/c compressor and lower the idle somewhat. If you are repairing these problems yourself, a factory shop manual is strongly advised. We can arrange for these manuals to be sent out to you.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Sorry for the confusion Bill, I will try again.

When we started her at the sellers location you knew the choke was on, so I tried to release it by the usual means of tapping on the accelerator but this did not work after several attempts. After the money exchange I then proceeded to an oil change location and changed the oil, had her greased and all fluids checked again with everything being normal ( I will replace the radiator fluids and flush in spring). With it sitting so long I figured there is something with carb. I then proceeded to an auto parts store and bought some Sea Foam and added it to the tank of #1 fuel I added. When I restarted it at the auto store I tried the heater controls and as I moved heater selector switch you could hear the vents opening and closing at each position but when I put it on economy position the car idled down which made me happier but no fan. I wasn't to worried then as it was not going to be that cold between Medicine Hat Alberta and Rockglen Saskatchewan where I live. We stayed the night and when I started it in the morning it fired right up but then when I moved the heater selector switch on the heater control it again started to rev up on other positions so I put it back on the economy position and all was well for the whole trip and traveling at 65 mph I obtained around 16 mpg which I wasn't to bad I thought. Heat came through the vents on its own but still no fan for the trip.

Now after being home and being parked for a few hours the head light covers opened up indicating a vacuum leak I think... I have since started it once since bringing her home and played with the heater selector and it still revs up in all positions except economy. The head lamps close immediately once you start it but whats interesting with this is that when I purchased her they were closed and being parked over night they were closed still in the morning so not sure what is happening with the vacuum system as when I shut the car off now they go back open in a few hours.

With all that, the car was purchased from a senior couple and she has only about 38 thousand miles so I couldn't pass this car up for 2,500 dollars and knew there would be some issues such as the vinyl roof needs repair and obviously a full tune up which will happen in the spring but hoping you can shed some light on the issue at hand with the heater controls/fan as to why this is affecting the idle, no fan and head lamps open. I did find on line the electrical and vacuum manual on a site and will print out but I didn't know you had manuals etc for one to purchase, is their an online store to view your products?

Its a beautiful car that needs some attention just want to do it right. I like to try things on my own but I suspect it should be taken to a professional such as yourself and get it done.

So hope this is a better explanation.

Jim

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Hi Jim -

Your latest information certainly helps to appreciate what you need to do to correct the issues that are appearing on your Mk V. It does look like you will be busy. The suggestions that we made earlier still apply.

These problems that you are experiencing need to be dealt with one at a time in a logical manner and sequence. Each faulty item or system should be examined separately to verify the fault and then you need to read the "proper" shop manual to find out exactly how it operates and to learn where the various components are located on the vehicle. Then each suspect component needs to be tested as per the manual starting first with the easier items to test or items that are suspect. These above methods help to avoid replacing good parts. New parts now are scarce and expensive. As an example of testing the components, the vacuum operated headlamps are known to leak vacuum from the vacuum motors at the grill area. These motors are a good starting place to test separately for vacuum leaks with a hand held vacuum pump. A vacuum leak can occur anywhere that vacuum is routed. Some systems have several leaks that must be found.

If you are unable to do these tests yourself and are using a local repair shop, that technician will certainly be able to use your shop manuals to save you time and money.

At Lincoln Land we have many good used and some new parts available for your car whenever you need them.

Sincerely,

Bill