" /> Bill's Corner: March 2019 Archives

« February 2019 | Main | April 2019 »

March 28, 2019

1965 AC Questions

Hi Bill,

Myself and another guy are scratching our heads over the climate control system in our 65's. My A/C will blow ice cold, if I hot wire the compressor or manually push in the thermostatic switch. With the key on, the thermo switch has power at the green lead. With the car running, the black lead on the thermo switch shows power and the clutch engages, when I manually press in the thermo switch. Problem is, there is no vacuum on the black/yellow vacuum line that comes out of the wheel to the thermostatic actuator. It doesn't matter what setting my climate control is set on, there's never any vacuum to the hose that attaches to the thermostatic actuator. I can slide my climate control from left to right and nothing changes, no A/C, no change in vents (RL-R-L) and no heat. I have strong vacuum in the cabin, even at the climate controls, but it seems like the system is stuck on vent. Blower switch works on all speeds, but that's it. Is it possible that the "wheel" is clogged or faulty, not changing the functions? I understand there is a capillary tube that senses temps, but these seems like something else.

Thanks in advance!

Brandon

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Greetings Brandon -

Some of these controls can be difficult to diagnose. If I am understanding you correctly it appears that your controls are faulty or some of the vacuum lines are not plugged into the correct inlets. Therefore your first step should be to inspect all of the ac/heat vacuum lines to find out if they are routed correctly using the service manual. If you are satisfied that they are, the switch should be tested for faults. We can perform these tests for you. If any vacuum diagrams etc. are needed, we can make these available for you as well. Let us know what is needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bill -

Thank you for such a quick reply. I had removed the entire dash to have the pad restored and during installation each vacuum line was plugged into the corresponding color on the wheel. We also verified each color with the manual and tested the vacuum to make sure there was plenty of vacuum coming to the control. All other vacuum components both under the hood and in the cabin are in good working order, except for the climate control. I've purchased a replacement control unit, since nothing changes as I slide the selector over. Before installation of the replacement control I think it might be a good idea to have it tested, prior to installation. I do not enjoy taking these dashes apart, so I'd definitely like to know the components are good, before installation. To have you guys test the replacement control, how long would you need the unit and how much do you charge to test? Would I ship to the address within this email?

Thanks again!

Brandon

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Brandon,

Once it arrives here we would have it tested in a day or two and a message back to you ASAP. You should send both units to verify the status for future use of the faulty one. We would need the complete control assembly without the Faceplate and Indicator Needle as they are VERY fragile. Call George at Lincoln Land (727-446-2193) for Shipping information and further details.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 27, 2019

1978 Town Coupe Headlight Doors Won't Close

Bill -

Headlight doors worked perfectly until one day I pushed the headlight switch in to turn them off.... The switch slid in easily without the normal resistance, and the doors now won't close.

Help.

Bill

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bill -

That's not much fun when that happens. If the switch now feels different when operated then you will need to remove it and examine and test the vacuum section for operation or damage. The switch assembly may need to be replaced if we cannot repair it for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 8, 2019

1973 Mark won't shut off - the Wife is going to kill me...

Bill -

I just got my Lincoln and drove it home, it sat for 6 months in the cold it was -25C. I had to jump start it cause the battery died. When I got it home I heard a weird click when I shut it off. Didn't think much of it until I started it again 5 minutes later and it wouldn't shut off. Everything had power, gauges, lights and engine. I pulled the key cylinder out and still had power everywhere that I connected the battery, so it's not that like I thought. Any inside to this will be a big help my wife is very mad at me.

Jeremy

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello Jeremy -

Based on your information I would begin by inspecting the ignition switch. It is mounted on the lower steering column and operated by a rod from your key cylinder assembly. You may need to remove some lower column shrouding for access. With the engine running and the key in the OFF position you can carefully try unplugging that ignition switch to find out if the engine then turns off. If it does turn off, the switch could be faulty or somehow disconnected or out of adjustment. If your Mark has ignition points, the starter solenoid could be faulty and is sending power to the system with the key in the off position. We should have parts for this if needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

1970 Mark III AC Issues

Hi Bill -

I have been working on this 70 MK III doing some minor restoration work for my customer so he can drive it this season. Everything has gone well except for when it comes to the HVAC blower motor operation. The issue is it does not work no matter what position I have the controls in. I have the factory manual but am having some difficulty making heads or tails of the power flow in the system. I can tell you my 30A breaker is powered and intact, the blower motor runs smoothly if 12 volts is jumped to the org/blk wire at the resistor. I pulled the resistor and checked it with ohmmeter and visually. OK there. The only power I have at the resistor is on the violet-white and red-white wires when the system is on but I believe that circuit relates to AC operation. I am concerned I may have a problem with the power servo switch assembly as it does not hold vacuum, but the ACC control box never applies vacuum to it anyway regardless of con trol head position. I do have vacuum at the top vacuum line on the ACC box. Anyway, any feedback you may have regarding blower operation would be greatly appreciated. Hope the info I gave helps.

Sincerely,

Chris

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Chris -

These ATC controls are complicated and difficult even if you read and understand your correct FoMoCo shop manual. If you cannot use the manual you are only guessing.

The manual shows a flow chart from the dash switch. The blower circuit can be traced to a relay, the servo and the resistor etc. Your description of the vacuum issues lead me to strongly suspect some problems with the servo and the ATC box. We overhaul many of these two units as a package here at Lincoln Land. If the system has been hacked by a previous owner or mechanic the diagnosis and subsequent repair becomes more difficult. Let us know if what you find and if we can help further.

Sincerely,

Bill