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January 29, 2014

1966 Continental Electrical Questions

Hello Bill,

I have emailed you earlier asking for help to locate the breakers on a 66. i have since found them and what i thought would be a quick fix now has me stumped. As I stated before my issue stemmed from a short in a wire that runs to my dash lights. I know that this same breaker also controls the Horn and the Power seat. I assumed i would just remove the wire and be able to bypass the breaker to make sure i was working with the correct one an then perhaps replace the breaker. This is not the case. After I removed the wire from the breaker it is reading as a ground?? Any ideas what could make this happen? I haven't done any wiring changes or mounted anything that could have cut into a wire. Just to give you the exact cause of the issue. I had a bulb on one of my gauges that was not working. I found out the the positive wire going to the bulb was loose and had come out. This wire touched the mounting for the gauges and thus caused the breaker to pop. I have unhooked all of the positive and negative wires going to the gauge to track it down but nothing changes.

As always. Thank you for your advice,


Hello Ken -

The Factory shop manual that you indicate that you have has all of the wiring diagrams shown in the rear section. Of course we can't diagnose your issues from here but in the diagram you will see that the instrumentation lighting is first protected by a 6 amp fuse in the fuse box. This fuse will open this circuit and only this circuit in the event of a short to ground. The power originates in the headlamp switch through the dimmer rheostat and then to this fuse. The h/l sw. also has its own heavier circuit breakers to protect the headlamps and the park and running lights. If this 6amp fuse is blowing, a common location for a short is in the shift quadrant wiring located in the steering column.

The diagram should also show what other circuits are protected by the horn and power seat circuit breakers. If the wiring in the vehicle has not been interfered with in a negative way the wiring diagram along with the proper test equipment should help direct you or your technician to the cause of your problems. If you cannot locate these necessary wiring schematics please contact us further and we can make them available for you.



January 28, 2014

1988 Town Car Radio Noise

Greetings Bill!

You've helped me in the past. Hopefully you can shed some light on this issue. I've replaced the radio in my '88 Town Car with an aftermarket radio. I've had this problem in the past and fixed it by running a ground directly from the radio to the battery and bypassing the ground supplied from the factory at the harness. But I'm getting ahead of myself here.

When I first got the car, I did a complete tune-up (plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil) and all of the parts are OE Motorcraft with the exception of the coil. The plugs are OE Motorcraft, standard resistors I imagine.

When I installed the radio, I get the problematic whine that increases with engine speed. I know this is alternator interference. So the steps I've taken to isolate the issue thus far have been: Disconnecting the alternator (whine goes away), replacing the alternator (whine is still there), eliminating the ground at the radio harness and running a new ground directly from the radio to the batter (whine got quieter but still apparent), reconnecting the original ground, keeping the added ground direct to battery, and adding yet another ground from the radio chassis to metal dash (whine still there), and adding a noise filter (did not fix whine). I even tried disconnecting the radio interference capacitor near the coil. NOTHING WORKS!! Of course, putting the original radio back in, there is no whine. There must be some sort of RF interference with either radio, but the new radio is the only one picking it up.

My question is is if you folks ever ran into this and what was done to fix it. It is so terribly annoying and I'd just like it to go away. Something tells me it's ignition related, maybe the plugs, but who knows. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.




Greetings Dan -

Interference noise in radios is a problem that the automotive and radio manufacturers have made great strides in during the last few decades. My knowledge is limited but I will tell you what I have experienced. In the last few decades automotive radios have been built with many static and whine suppressors built into their electronics. Your 1988 Town Car is one of these. Your statement "of course putting the original radio back in, there is no whine" makes me believe that your aftermarket radio cannot do the suppression job that the factory radio can do. For this reason I would advise you to first contact the maker of your after market radio and discuss your experiences. They may have some ideas or even a kit engineered to correct this noise issue.

I also remember repairing a radio whine in an early 70's Ford product that had recently received a rebuilt alternator (twice). The correction was to install a brand new alternator.

Let us know what you find out.



January 27, 2014

1964 Continental Water In Oil After Rebuild

Hello Bill -

I'm rebuilding a 64 convertible that I purchased last year. The 430 engine was shot and had 5 cracks in the block. I decided to go with a 66 462. I found one and took it to my local machine shop and had it rebuilt. I also had the transmission rebuilt. I got the engine and transmission back and put them in the car. I got it running and it ran good. I took the car to the exhaust shop and had a new duel exhaust put on the car. When I picked the car up from them to my surprise the car was bellowing white antifreeze smoke out of both exhaust pipes. I checked the oil and it has water in it. First thought was head gasket. But for smoke to be coming out of both pipes that would mean that both gaskets went at the same time? I would lean more towards the intake being bad. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.



Hi Shawn -

We're sorry to hear that this has happened to you. What has happened to the engine is a good question. The problem could be incorrect use of gaskets or some sort of improper assembly etc. but the question needs to be asked at the machine shop that rebuilt it. I would call them and arrange to have the car towed to their shop. If they are a reputable business they will want to have this put right for you if they have made an error.



January 22, 2014

1962 Continental Transmission & Power Steering Questions

Hi Bill,

A couple of more questions on my 62 Lincoln for you thanks.

I have noticed just lately that the auto takes a bit longer to change from 2nd to 3rd than it used to, about 40MPH before it drops in, and it doesn't seem smooth when it does, the auto was rebuilt about 12 months ago so I don't Suspect any worn parts or band adjustments.

The other question is about my power steering not knowing the norm for 60's Lincolns or its idiosyncrasy in steering, I've read many comments like vague, tack like a boat etc. It's a new steering box from you guys and new standoff discs. It steers fine except it's all ways seems a bit to touchy when driving in a straight line, a slight movement in the steering wheel amplifies at the wheels. It's all ways done this from the old box to the new one, so was thinking is this the way they are or is it something else I can adjust. The pump has had a new kit through it about 12 months ago etc. I think it's more noticeable when I'm not accelerating but that might be my paranoia.

I don't know any other Lincoln owner over here as they are not that common to discuss issues.

Thanks for the help in the past keep up the good work.

Kind regards,



Hi Dale -

That 62 Lincoln must be a real head turner in Australia.

A transmission that seems to be shifting incorrectly shortly after a rebuild should be road tested at the shop and by mechanic that rebuilt it. If this is not a failing internal component the issue may simply be the externally mounted vacuum shift valve or the vacuum line and hose from the engine to this valve, the throttle kick down linkage rod and spring from the carburetor to the transmission or possibly low fluid level in the transmission. Always consider and inspect the small items first.

Steering questions are many times difficult to answer without a personal road test but what you are describing seems to be the "touchy" straight line steering condition that it is commonly referred to as. You also state that "it's always done this from the old box to the new one". The power steering pump can't contribute to this. The steering system cannot "amplify the steering effort at the wheels" or change the ratio as it is a mechanical connection and can only respond as per the factory designed front end geometry. Still that "touchy" feeling is there and can be annoying. The tire pressure, type, size and condition of the tires and wheels can cause this in some cases and I would look here first. We have seen some very strange combinations of tires and wheels that have been installed on vehicles arriving in our service area. If the above and all of the steering components are tight and are the correct parts in good order I would then consider that the front end alignment specs may not be correct. A good front end shop with a good technician will adjust the alignment only to the factory specifications for the best results. The technician will also road test with you in order to understand what you are experiencing. Let us know what you find.



January 15, 2014

1971 Mark Thermactor Tubes

Hey Bill, hope you had a great holiday season!

I have a question regarding the emission tubes that connect to the back of the cylinder head. I have a 71 Mark III and the tubes have rusted through and are leaking exhaust badly. I live in Idaho and we have no emission regulations so I was wanting to remove them completely but not sure if the holes can be plugged with a bolt or plug. And is it something that can be done in the car. I think the heads are off a 73 460 if that matters.

As always thank you for what you do for us Lincoln owners.



Greetings Alec -

We are pleased that you enjoy the Lincoln Land blog. It is our pleasure to help customers such as yourself who are appreciative.

The inlets in the heads for the emission tubes can also be found in the front of your heads. The front inlets are plugged at the factory with small discs that have the appearance of small frost plugs. These can be sourced if not from a Ford Dealer from a local automotive machine shop in your area. Your leaking tubes can be removed and these plugs carefully pressed in place with the heads attached to the engine. You will need to configure the appropriate tools as necessary to tap or press them in with the use of a small amount of high temp sealant as a lube. I did this twenty years ago on my 1970 Lincoln with no problems. An alternative is to retain a portion of the leaking tubes along with the attaching parts and have a local welder improvise a sealed flange for you to attach in place of the tubes. If you have difficulty sourcing these plugs contact myself or our order desk at Lincoln Land and we will try to locate them for you. Be sure to refer to your blog question if you call.



January 13, 2014

1973 Mark Hard Restart Issues

Hi, Bill:

I bought my 73 Mark IV 460 V8 from you guys about 5 yrs ago. The car starts well, but after it heats up and I stop it, when I try to re-start it, it won't turn over. For example, I drove it about 5 miles to get gas, brought it home, turned it off in the driveway, and then when I went to start it up to pull it into the garage about 5 minutes later, it wouldn't turn over. Then sometimes, after a while, it will start.

Every time I leave the car overnight etc, I have to disconnect the battery.

Any thoughts, suggestions, advice?




Hi Tom -

Your problem sounds like a power draw from a light remaining on or a draw from the alternator etc. Could also be a failing battery or a charging system that is not up to par. You should carefully check for a light remaining on in the glove box, trunk or under hood etc. or even a faulty clock. If these seem ok, the battery,charging system and starter would need to be evaluated by a good electrical shop. Let us know what you find.



January 6, 2014

1988 Town Car - No Start Issue

Hello Bill,

I do so hope you can help. Here is my problem...

Drove the above car into the garage. She drove fine. Went to use it the other day and nothing. The battery is good, lights comes on, starter motor engages the flywheel, but the flywheel is stuck (can't even move it by hand by using a socket/wrench) and the car won't start. This was done by using the starter relay, bypassing the ignition key. Why won't she start??? Never had any similar problem. Car has a little over 108K miles and has always ran great...never overheating.

Any assistance would be helpful.



Hi Richard -

What you are describing is an engine that has suddenly seized after it was shut off. An engine that was perfectly fine and running "great" as you say should not do this. It sounds to me that your starter motor is faulty. It may be engaging the starter drive in to the flywheel but the starter motor is incapable of turning. You would need to get the car in to a shop where the engine and the cranking system can be evaluated. The technician there will probably use a long breaker bar and socket to try to crank the engine by hand to determine if it is indeed seized. If not seized he will then test the starting and electrical system. Let us know what you find.



1979 Mark AC Questions & Update

Hey Bill,

I have a 79 Mark V and I need to work on my complete A/C system. All parts to the A/C are original to the car from what I know. It seems my evaporator sprung a leak and I had oil on the floor and my A/C stopped blowing cold. I figure now is the time to address any other potential problems and as I source parts I thought I would ask you a few questions.

I want to stick with R12 which I have 4 cans so far. I understand I need mineral oil but wasn't sure if I need the cans that have 50/50 (R12/oil) or is the oil traditionally added separately when preparing a complete system. From what I understand, I need 68 oz of R12 and 10.5 oz of mineral oil. Is that correct? Since I don't know how much oil is left in the system and it has been exposed to the elements should I perform a complete evac and start fresh?

I bought a new evaporator and drier. My compressor might have had a small leak although I have gone 6 years without needing a charge. There is oil on the hood insulation that was there when I bought the car. It could have come from a previous failure. The A/C was not working when I bought the car, but an A/C shop familiar with classic cars in Michigan tested, found nothing wrong with it. He did a complete evac filled it with R12 an it's ran fine ever since. I was told these often seep oil especially if the pressure is too low in the system for an extended period. The mechanic thought this might be why the system appeared not to have any mechanical issues at the time. Can my compressor be tested or should I just have it remanufactured since this would be the time to do it OR is this the time to think about buying a new one considering its age? Is this a service Lincoln Land offers? What other items should I be looking at addressing at this time?

I was thinking of replacing the heater core if the A/C system is in the way of it's removal since it's original to the car though there is nothing wrong with it. Is the condenser also something I should look at replacing while I have the system apart? The hoses look good, but I'd like to find a way to test those also if possible.

Any input would be appreciated!

Thank you!
Happy New Year!



Brian -

Attempting to diagnose further problems into an a/c system that has performed well until a major failure of one component (evaporator) is foolish. If you absolutely must address and repair any unknown future "potential" problems, you will need to replace all of the parts that the refrigerant is routed through. Your mechanic gave you good advice in several areas, oil will migrate through the seal normally and slight oil streaking will appear on the hood insulation. Severe amounts of oil seepage are of course not allowed. Components of the system cannot be completely and accurately evaluated separately off the car at any repair shop level. This is performed at the manufacturing level. We evaluate and diagnose components while operating on the car. We also strongly recommend that faulty compressors be replaced with new and not rebuilt units for reliability and customer satisfaction purposes.

Do you have all of the necessary equipment to perform quality a/c repairs? Proper tools and equipment are a must along with the correct Shop Manual in order to sure of certain specifications and procedures. Good luck with your project.





I have the manuals and tools required and as for equipment, isn't only a vacuum pump to evac and remove moisture needed and gauges to determine high/low pressure?

It seems everybody wants to retrofit the car and that's something I really don't want to do. I did that with another vintage car and was never happy with the results. People say you can't get R12 anymore which is simply untrue. I have a supply and sources. I have a new evaporator and drier and currently looking for a reasonably priced NEW A6 compressor based on your advice. I do agree. Perhaps I will have the old one remanufactured and resold to save it from landfill and to offset costs.

Do you only retrofit vintage systems with R134a now at your facility or are you still working with original R12 systems at your client's request? I have a very good mechanic but he doesn't have a dedicated vacuum pump for R12 anymore and he is also suggesting I not deviate from R12 since he is familiar with the results of my last A/C retrofit of R134a in the other car.

Thank God it's winter!!!
Thank you again!



Hi Brian -

In addition to replacing the faulty a/c parts and before evacuating we also pressure up the systems with nitrogen for a period of time and observe the gauges for a pressure drop in order to be certain that all leaks have been eliminated. Replacing the receiver/drier is a very good and recommended decision that you have made. The other luxury that successful a/c technicians develop over time is a keen feel for the system that they are working on. A feel for the system only comes with plenty of on scene experience and some unintentional " trial and error". Your local a/c mechanic friends may be able to observe your work and advise you further if necessary. I have worked with automotive a/c systems since the late 1960's and still find that there is something new to be learned every day.

We at Lincoln Land are well aware of the shortcomings and disappointments of r134 in some of the older systems. R134 however does seem to work fine in certain older units and again not so well in others. The worst of r134 of course will mostly appear on the hottest of days and in slow traffic. We like to speak with our customers and let them make the refrigerant choice according to their desires. Most conversions that we perform receive (on our recommendation) the best equipment that we can source. We like to install r134 capable condensers and heavy duty cooling fans etc. according to the customers decisions. Many collector car owners are well aware that r134 may not cool as well as r12 and are quite happy with that while others do insist on the r12. In this business we must accommodate our customers accordingly as well as remain within the State refrigeration laws.



1969 Mark Blower Motor Questions

Hello Bill,

First I want to thank you and your company for all of your assistance with parts and information on our 1969 Lincoln Mark III.

We are currently having problem with the heater / AC blower.

When running the AC, the fan blows on low speed only - No High
When running the Heat, the fan blows on low speed only - No High
changing over to the Defrost, the fan does not blow at all. -Neither low or high

Do you have any suggestions on where we should look for problems on this? It doesn't seem to switch over to defrost at all.

Thank you,



Greetings Terry -

We are pleased that you are happy with our service regarding parts and information. I can tell you that Lincoln Land and our staff certainly appreciate your business as well.

You don't state if your 69 Mark is equipped with the Automatic Climate Control or the Manual unit. Either way they both use a High Range relay located under the right fender near the hood hinge between the splash shield and fender. This relay would be the first item to test. It is a simple relay and its operation is shown in the Shop Manual and wiring schematics. We offer rebuilding service or replacements for these relays. If you feel that you do not have the skills or the proper manuals and wiring diagrams to do the necessary diagnosis we will offer to test your relay at no charge. If the relay is NOT found to be faulty further diagnosis may lead to issues in the main control switch, the ATC box and servo or their associated wiring. The above mentioned relay though is a very popular fail item and is by far the most logical part to inspect first.



January 3, 2014

1965 Interior Lighting Issues

Hello there Bill -

I am trying to figure out a little issue with my dash lights. Whenever I turn on the headlights I get all exterior lights. When I turn the knob I get interior lights once it clicks. But I have NO gauge lights. I was wondering if you could offer any advice as to what may cause this. I think I may have my headlight switch rebuilt. But until then maybe I can get power out to the bulbs. I have a Shop Manual and Wiring Diagram. Thank you very much for your time.



Tyler -

The dash light power should originate at the H/L Switch from the rheostat and then through a fuse to the bulbs. Any short in any dash light will blow the fuse. The fuse is a small 4 or 6 amp rating. The problem could therefore be a faulty H/L Switch, blown fuse because of a short or a bad connection. Diagnosis will be required to be sure. If you follow the Wiring Diagram, you need to trace wires 14 & 15 coming off the switch. Let us know how things turn out - we do have replacement switches available if needed.



January 2, 2014

1995 Town Car Trunk Pull Down

Bill -

I was hoping I could tug your ear again?

I have a 1995 Lincoln (Medium Berry) with low miles and I love it. A few bugs here and there but it's 19 yrs. old! Recently my wife "shut" the trunk. The catch in the bottom that has a motor appears to be going up and down as prescribed but the roll around latch attached to the trunk doesn't appear to be catching the motorized catch on the bottom. It looks to have a plastic sheath around the hook that is not isn't rolling over. I sliced the part that seemed to be petruding out thinking that it might be inhibiting the process of the latch "rolling over to catch the ring coming up from the bottom. Is it a repairable item or should I look to Ebay for the entire trunk latch assembly? Thanks so much for your time!!!!




We can and do repair many parts of these latching mechanisms but some are damaged to the extent that a replacement is required instead. We would need to examine yours in order to determine the most cost efficient way to proceed in your case. Call us and ask for details.



1962 Continental Seat Issues

Hey Bill,

First of all, Ive bought a few parts from your shop and the blog is very helpful and I refer to it a lot when i run into dead ends, thank you! I notice there haven't been any posts since 2012 but I hope its still an active blog as i do have a question...The power front seat in my 62 Lincoln operates "up and down" but it doesn't move forward or backward. The motor (along with the shaft it is attached too) under the seat spins when i hit the switch but the seat just doesn't move. Is this a common problem? Any ideas on how too fix it??

Thanks in advance,



Hi John -

We are pleased that you enjoy the blog. We have posted many new items continuously up to the present date. They should be available to you as well.

The most common problem with your power seat issue is old well aged lubricant in the mechanism. We service these units here at Lincoln Land by disassembling the entire mechanism and then cleaning, testing and re lubricating all of the necessary parts. At this time any badly warn gear parts and faulty solenoids etc. are also replaced. Many customers choose to send theirs in to us for service or if they have some skills they will do the work themselves. In most cases, lightly and carefully tapping on the mechanism with a small hammer while operating the switch will sometimes temporarily free up the unit and prove out the diagnosis. Service will however still be required at some point in the future.