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January 30, 2013

1965 Continental Is Sluggish - Update

Bill I can't thank you enough for the advice, I unbolted the exhaust just before the muffler's and sure enough the passenger side exhaust pipe was clogged shut. I ran 2 new pipes from the manifolds to the mufflers and the car runs perfect!! I've run into double walled exhaust pipe problems before but 99% of those cases were on Honda's. I had no idea these Lincolns were manufactured with it and probably never would have checked it.

Thanks again,


January 24, 2013

1970 Mark III Gauges Inop

Hi Bill,

Your blog is awesome! I have learned a lot from all the reading. I do have a question for you, I just purchased a 1970 Mark and none of the dash gauges work except the speedometer. I have looked at the fuse block and all are intact. Am I up against a big challenge?

Thank you for any help you can offer!



Hello Randy -

We are pleased that you enjoy the blog. The fuel gauge, temp. gauge and the oil pressure gauge are controlled by a unit in the instrument cluster area called the "Instrument panel Voltage Regulator or IVR. The amp gauge is separate and in the Mark III's of this era these Amp gauges unfortunately never did work real well or move much even when new. Ford never really addressed this problem or offered a correction for the Amp gauge issue. To diagnose the other three gauges you will definitely need some electrical testing skills along with the correct wiring diagram. To honestly answer your question "am I up against a big challenge?" the answer very well could be yes for many owners or "do it yourselfers". Many automotive electrical shops also lack the experience needed for this type of challenge. I would suggest that you obtain the correct manual and study the electrical and diagnosis sections and then decide if you are up to the challenge. If you decide to proceed please contact us for further advice or any manuals that you will need.



January 23, 2013

1979 Mark V Brakes Overheating

Hi Bill,

Thanks for a great website.

I have a 1979 Mark V. A beautiful car, white without a vinyl roof (factory delete option).

My car recently came from a private collection in the US to Australia. A nice car with 73 000 miles on the clock. All these miles were done in the first 20 years or so of its life and then for the next 10 years it sat in a collectors building in Washington State. I had all the usual things go wrong due it to sitting still for years and solved most of them by, a distributor rebuild, carb rebuild, new front wheel bearings and of course, a full brake rebuild. This included a new master cylinder, reconditioned proportioning valve, new hoses and overhauled calipers and hardware. Disc run out was within tolerance. Brake linings were also new.

I have a full set of manuals and a friend of mine, (the best mechanic in town) and I set about the brake rebuild. We followed the manuals word for word and the end result is pretty good. The brakes work well. However, the rear brakes run a bit hot in use. Not so hot they smoke or impede the movement of the vehicle, but hot enough to be hotter than the front wheels by 10 to 20 degrees centigrade. (I have a heat sensing tool). The rear axle bearings do not run hot, we also changed the rear axle oil. Additionally, I checked the park brake cables and it releases fine.

We dismantled the brakes again only to find nothing obviously wrong and reassembled them. We still have the same problem, the rear brakes get hot. The rear wheel hub gets up to 63 to 73 degrees centigrade, wheres the front wheel hubs only get to around 50 to 60 degrees centigrade. 65 degrees centigrade sure feels hot to touch. When the car is on the hoist there is more drag on the back wheels caused by the brakes than the front wheels. When driving, you can hear a feint squeak coming from the back brakes.

Back to the manual I went and retraced our steps. By process of elimination the manual guides me to the rear caliper piston/adjuster assemblies. The manual states that if, "the rear brakes over or under adjust, replace the whole piston/adjuster assembly".

Have you encountered this problem before?

It seems odd that both rear calipers get warm by the same amount. It is almost like there is a small amount of residual pressure in the rear brake lines holding them on. I used a reputable brand master cylinder that does not have a check valve if used for a rear drum brake system We even moved the master cylinder forward 3/8ths of an inch off the pedal push rod to ensure it was releasing any residual pressure. No pressure was there to release as there was no change to the rear caliper drag.

We intend to dismantle the rear calipers again soon and inspect the piston/adjuster assemblies even closer.

Any thoughts ?

Thanks for a great website. I find the technical parts diagrams very useful along with your parts supply.


Alasdair Webb


Hi Alasdair -

I can understand your concern with overheating brakes if they are indeed overheating. The question is are they actually overheating or not? We have no temperature specification charts to refer to for comparison. If we suspect a vehicle to have overheating brakes we drive the car to operating temperature and test for "brake drag". This can be done on a safe level smooth surface with the car moving very slowly. At this time you shift the transmission into neutral and observe the car as it rolls to a smooth halt without any stopping force from the brakes. Then the car is manually pushed in neutral and must resume movement easily and then roll to a slow easy stop once more when you stop pushing. If the above is correct the brake system should not be causing any overheating. I assume that all of the parts that you have installed as well as the assembly of these parts is correct. We have encountered similar problems in the past with incorrect or rebuilt master brake cylinders used on these cars. Our records do not indicate that a brake master cylinder was purchased from us therefore I would advise you to recheck that a correct new unit was installed. I hope that the above information helps. Please don't hesitate to contact us for further advice in this matter.



January 21, 2013

1965 Continental Is Sluggish

Hi Bill,

I have been working on a customers 65 Continental for a couple of months now. He brought it to me saying it shut off on him one day and when he started it back up it was running rough and had little power. I have have been through this thing in and out, top and bottom. Did all the usual diagnosis stuff and have changed parts as I have found defects. The car was running rough at idle and would break up real bad when trying to accelerate, popping back back through the carburetor and smelling very rich. The first thing I did was rebuild the distributor, it wasn't advancing and the plate was very corroded. That didn't help at all. I pulled the timing cover to check the chain and marks and that was fine so I pulled the intake and discovered the lifters were seizing in the bores. I cleaned the bores, installed a new camshaft, lifters and timing chain set. While I had it that far down I sent the heads to the machine shop and 500 bucks later they were fixed with a few valves and all new springs. All the rockers are free and pushrods not bent. After all that the car idles as smooth as a brand new car, but still have no power and can barely accelerate. New coil, 12 volts to the coil, new cap and rotor, timing set at 10 degrees ( have tried it from 6 to 16 degrees), 5-6psi fuel pressure at the carb, new helper fuel pump near the tank, compression is 130-140 on every cylinder after warm-up. After all this the car still has very little power, breaks up during acceleration and is still slightly popping through the carburetor at WOT. You can see a mist of fuel with a flashlight coming out of the top of the carb while power breaking it at half throttle. I've hit a brick wall with this one, its the first 430 Ive ever worked on, I'm too far in it to stop now. Any ideas or advice? Thanks so much.



Greetings Andy -

After reviewing your letter several times and reading what you have done so far with this engine and assuming that all of your work has been done correctly as per the engine's specifications etc. I can offer the following. The factory exhaust systems on these engines use a " double wall" exhaust pipe. These of course are the pipes that bolt up to the exhaust manifolds and continue on to the next flange connection rearward. It is not unheard of for the inner pipe to develop a separation in such a way as to severely seal up the exhaust on one side enough to cause the symptoms that you are describing. When this occurs the outer wall remains intact and no exhaust leak is heard. Because of the exhaust heat factor this final "plug up" can take place in a very short period of time as your customer has described to you. If the vehicle has the original style pipes on it you should remove them for a careful internal inspection.

Two other items to be aware of when tuning or servicing this era of engine are...The damper pulley on the crankshaft can separate from the rubber damper material and give you an incorrect timing reading. These are available rebuilt. The second is that the vacuum advance units on the distributor are well known to seize or rupture and become inoperative. These are available new.

I hope that the above helps you and I would ask you to let us know here at Lincoln Land what you find.