" /> Bill's Corner: September 2011 Archives

« August 2011 | Main | October 2011 »

September 29, 2011

1968 462 Engine Rebuild Question

Hello Bill -

I'm having trouble with the #5 main cap to the crank shaft. I can't remove it. Is there a way to remove it that I don't damage the cap or the crank shaft.





Because of the design of the sealing surfaces on this rear main cap removing in can be very difficult in many cases. I consulted with Erik Dalemans here at Lincoln Land and he advises as follows. The cap has two threaded holes that serve as an attachment for the oil pan. He sometimes needs to thread in two longer bolts into these holes so that the bolts can be used as leverage to gently rock and pull the cap free. Tools such as vise grips etc. can be used on the bolts to carefully rock or pry the cap free and guide it down and out. Advising you with the situation that you are in is difficult at best without actually being there on scene. With a little patience and care you should be successful. I do hope that the above helps you. If you have any further questions please contact us.



September 28, 2011

1969 Mark III Flashing Headlights


On my 1969 Mark III the headlights will flash wildly and there is a weird buzz that occurs when the headlight dimmer trys to change either high to low or low to high. The headlights come on fine when first turned on but drive 3-4 minutes and the flashing begins. I no longer drive it after sundown.



Hi Patrick,

I assume that you have the Automatic Headlamp Dimmer option. If so it sounds like the Photo Amplifier unit is faulty. It is located outside on the cowl near the windshield. I would try unplugging this unit and then operate the headlamps to see if they then operate normally. If so you may need another unit as these are non serviceable. There is also a Power Relay unit in the circuit but your description sounds like a Photo Amplifier issue as discussed above. Have you tried operating the headlamps with the beams locked on low position. This as you may know is operated by the foot dimmer switch that is located at the left floor area near the left air vent outlet and is visible in the carpet. Pressing this switch with your foot will switch the beams from Hi to Low and you should hear no buzzing or experience any automatic Hi /Lo beam switching when in the Lo beam position. The Autodim feature only operates in the Hi beam position. You also don't say if there is a reaction when you adjust the sensor dial behind the headlamp knob as adjusting this this may help or change the situation. At Lincoln Land we would however try another relay and if that fails to correct the erratic operation we would then try the Photo Amplifier. If you have more information after trying the adjustment or would need any parts or further advice please contact us at any time. The procedure for troubleshooting the Automatic Headlamp dimming is provided in the Shop Manual. This manual would be a benefit to you.



September 12, 2011

1957 Premiere Brake Issues

Bill -

I have a 57 Premiere with 64K miles on it.... Had the brake booster replaced and since then, it is undriveable. The brakes are so tight that anything more than 1/2 inch of pedal movement threatens to throw you thru the windshield. Very difficult to manage on an incline, so it sits in the driveway. How are these brakes adjusted so it is driveable again? I have other cars from the era so I know that power brakes and steering are different but not like this.

Thanks in advance,



Hello Richard -

Brake issues such as you are experiencing should be actually road tested in person by anyone who is trying to diagnose a problem. If I am understanding your description though you are describing a harsh and very sensitive braking action that is hard to control. Your statement..... "had brake booster replaced and since then it is undriveable"..... may be the key to the problem. I believe that you should consult with the shop that rebuilt and or installed the booster and advise them what you are experiencing. This condition is not uncommon and in many cases the cause is an incorrect usage or installation of a repair part. The rebuilder will probably be concerned and will advise you exactly what action to take as this type of braking action is undesirable can be unsafe. If you can provide us with any additional information or would like to discuss this further please feel free to contact us at any time. I do hope that the above helps to quickly resolve your problem.



September 6, 2011

1979 Mark V Hard To Start When Cold

Hi Bill,

I Have a 79 Mark V Collector's Series, 20K miles with a mystery problem I am at a dead on. When engine is cold it takes up to 50 pumps to get started. 3 years ago it took 10 to 20. Once started it runs perfect in every way and restarts when warm with a half pump.
Car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gas and air filter. Linkage seems tight and normal, butterfly closes as it should on first pump. A good spray of carb cleaner into the carb helps it to start easier.

Logically it seems like gas in draining back and all the pumps are bringing fuel back to the carb but several people tell me this is impossible. Most parts on this car are original
Once it starts choke seems normal. Slightly higher idle for a few minutes, then normal
No gas odor, no exhaust smoke. No sign of flooding.

You can see why I need your detective work....

Thank you Bill,



Hello Charlie -

Some of these cold start problems can be frustrating but sometimes the answer turns out to be simple. An engine requires a strong battery, starter motor, good ignition and a fresh clean fuel mixture to start. When cold the engine also needs a richer mixture. Assuming that your ignition is in good order as you are indicating I think that you should examine the fuel system first. The choke on a cold engine start should be fully closed even while cranking. When the engine starts the choke opens slightly and continues to slowly open completely as the engine warms up. Fuel in the carburetor should be available in abundance at this time for the correct mixture. You tell us that the addition of carb. cleaner helps it to start easier. For this reason I think that you should hold the choke open on the cold engine and carefully observe the inside of the carb. with a light while pumping the linkage. This is of course is done with the ignition key OFF for the purpose of checking the fuel availability to the cold engine from the carb. If the ignition is strong and plenty of fuel is pumped into the carburetor at this time and the choke is operating as described above the engine will start. If fuel is not pumping into the carb. during this test you have a fuel delivery problem to the carb. or the accellerator pump inside the carb. is faulty. You would then need to check for a plugged fuel filter at the carb. and then perform a fuel pressure and volume test. This is outlined in the manual and will reveal if there are any problems for the fuel to be able to flow correctly from the tank to the carburetor. Fuel cannot drain back from the carb. and into the lines as the vehicle sits unused but if the car has sat for a long period of time the fuel can evaporate and deteriorate. In this case a few seconds of cranking will replenish the fuel bowl if the fuel delivery system is performing for you as designed. You may discover during the above tests that your problem is indeed a fuel delivery issue and that this ciircuit will need a complete inspection and maintenance. This service is normal for a vehicle of this age. I hope that the above provides you with "food for thought" and helps to quickly locate the starting problem with your MK V. If we can be of further help with any advice or parts etc. please do not hesitate to call.



1962 Vacuum Issues

Hi Bill,

I have a 62 Lincoln which I imported from the States to Australia this year and now are trying to put back the Vacuum tubes to the right spots as many of the lines have been disconnected by the previous owner.

I have several Diagrams and workshop manuals of the Vacuum circuits but none of them explain clearly the second Vacuum tank under the passenger front guard. It has two lines coming out of it and am assuming one goes

to the right hand heater temp regulator valve, but not sure of the other line or if the Vacuum tank is partitioned off in the center making it act like two tanks as I've seen on a drawing with a line through the middle of the tank.

On my 62 the left hand tank feeds the break booster as well as the left hand heater etc.




Hello Dale,

That 62 will be a nice car for you in Australia. The vacuum tank at the right fender in front of the right front wheel is as you suspect, a dual tank in one unit. It is actually partitioned inside and is used as two separate vacuum reservoirs. One section is for the Heater or Heater/Air Conditioner vacuum supply, and the other section is for the Power Door Lock vacuum supply. The Heat and AC section at that canister is the ONLY vacuum supply for that complete circuit ( left and right heater ). The vacuum reservoir at the left fender is ONLY for the Power Brake booster. If you feel that any of your vacuum diagrams etc. are inadequate we should be able to supply you with further information. We hope that the above helps and we look forward to looking after any of your future requirements that you may have.