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July 16, 2009

1995 Town Car Variable Steering Problems

Hi Bill,

I have a 95 Town Car Cartier with 141,000 miles on it, the electronic variable rate steering seems to be giving me an issue. I have the switch on the dash set to high, for the firmer feel, but I can drive the car for about ten minutes, and then the steering gets real easy (feels like my old Mark IV). If I stop and shut the car off, when I restart the steering is firm again for a little while then gets real easy, I tried moving the switch on the dash, once it gets easy, to low med and back to high and nothing changes. Just as a note, my air suspension is working properly. I would appreciate any help on this. Thank You.


Hello Scott -

The condition that you describe must really make driving unpleasant for you at times. I know it would for me.

The E.V.O.or Electronic Variable Oriface steering varies the size of an oriface at the power steering pump in order to provide a variable steering effort for the driver. It does this electrically using multiple sensors that include a vehicle speed sensor and a steering wheel speed sensor and an adjustment switch for the amount of effort desired by the driver. The reason that I am explaining this is because it all leads to an electronic control module that receives the combined information from the sensors and switches and then applies the correct voltage to control the Oriface actuator. The module on (most) Lincolns of that era is also tied in with the Suspension module. Anyone working on this system must read the appropriate manual for their year of vehicle to understand the theory and sequence of operation.

The good news is that a diagnostic connector is provided for a technician to gain access to diagnostic codes from his proper code reader. Obviously this is not a Saturday morning "quick fix" before coffee time repair for everybody. If you want to trouble shoot this yourself you are limited but there are a few things that you can consider. Did the problem start immediately after another repair such as air suspension, power steering pump, anything in or near the steering wheel or shaft etc. etc.? This information is valuable to any technician that will be working on your car. If there was any work done near or at any sensors, switch etc. for the EVO the electrical connectors could be re-examined for a bad connection. If you are going to attempt the repair yourself, I strongly advise that you have the appropriate manuals at your side. If you will be taking it to a shop for the diagnosis and repair be sure to choose a qualified shop otherwise the possibility of too much guess work and incorrect parts replacement exists. Feel free to contact us for any further information or for any parts or manuals that we may be able to provide for you.

Wish you the best of Luck,


July 8, 2009

1959 Window Issues

Hi Bill -

I have a 1959 Lincoln 4 door that the rear window won't go down. It will go down about 1 inch and it stops, it lookes like it might be off its track, but not sure how I should start to tear it down to fix. Any help would be appreciated.



Hello Jay -

Whether this problem is your door window, or the large retractable rear vent glass - you will need to expose the lower mechanical mechanism in order to inspect for loose, seized or broken parts etc.

At this time it will surely need a real good lubrication of all moving parts and rollers as well. If you need any literature for any panel and parts removal, we usually have a good supply available as well as hardware and motor parts. If you do need further assistance please don't hesitate to contact us at Lincoln Land.

Good Luck,


1986 Town Car Stalling Issues

Hi Bill -

I have been enjoying this addition to the Lincoln Land website!

I have a 1986 Town Car with 81,000 original miles in excellent condition. I live in the California desert and the temperature exceeds 115 in the summer months. After I have driven the car and park it for a short while, such as running errands, when I put the car in reverse, it stalls. It also stalled once while waiting for a long traffic light. I can put it in park and turn off the A/C and I start it up with no problem, then turn on the A/C again. This happens only during hot temperatures. The car just went through a complete service (oil change, radiator, a/c) and they found nothing wrong. All the gauges work properly-the temp gauge is fine. Any idea why the car is stalling?

Thanks -


Greetings Michael -

I986 Town Car,.... a real nice car. I had one also and really liked it. I have read your letter several times and in general can offer the following.

It seems that age and heat are causing one of the under hood engine emission or engine management components to start failing. The under hood controls and sensors on your car work very well and were well respected in their day but after all of this time the system needs some service. Unless your mechanic is familiar with and is working on these on a regular basis and can go directly to the problem, he will need to use a code reader to try and retrieve a problem code from the car's computer. Otherwise it can be trial and error ordeal. However sometimes even with a code reader an experienced technician can temporarily be led down the wrong path. Before checking the above items it would be a good idea to inspect all of the under hood vacuum lines and electrical connectors for any leaks and or disconnects or for any deviations from the factory installation. All general tune-up items etc. should also be in good shape before trying to diagnose a problem such as you are experiencing. Here's hoping that the above will help lead you to a real quick fix.

Sincerely -

Bill and the Lincoln Land crew

1978 Mark V Headlamp Vacuum Issues

Bill -

I have a 1978 Lincoln Mark 5 with the 6.6 engine. I have replaced the major components of the headlight vacuum system and still can't make them work. It seems when I start the car they close, and when I shut the car off they open again..



Hey Tim -

Your headlamp doors open because they are designed to open as a safety feature if the system cannot hold vacuum. Vacuum can leak anywhere that the vacuum lines are routed. I'm not sure what you did replace, but if they open immediately as you describe you have a large leak.

The most likely components to leak are as follows.....Vacuum check valve, Headlamp door vacuum motors, Vacuum Reservoir, Headlamp switch vacuum valve, Autolamp Vacuum. module (if equipped), or any cracked or disconnected vacuum lines. Some vehicles have more than one leak. If you are not familiar with this system and its installation you will benefit greatly by consulting a manual and vacuum diagram. If you are keeping the car and doing your own repairs I strongly advise that you order the proper Ford manual. Diagnosing these components correctly is a must otherwise you will replace unnecessary parts. If you do wish a set of manuals or need any parts, we have these available for you. Good Luck on a speedy repair.



July 2, 2009

1979 Mark V Engine Surge

Hi Bill,

I have a 1979 Mark V, when the engine warms up - it surges up and down when in park or idiling. It runs ok when in drive with my foot on the brake, or when i am driving normally.

Whats up?



Hey Chuck,

Problems such as this one usually require a hands on type of diagnosis but I will try to give you some basic items and ideas for checking it out.

I am assuming also that your spark plugs, high tension wiring, timing and other tune up items are in good order. First and foremost, try to remember if the surging started immediately after a component repair or any type of overhaul such as carburetor cleaning, distributor servicing, etc. etc. If so, it is important for you to stop at this point and back track to that component and re-check to determine if it was indeed serviced and set up properly. If that is in order I would then move to inspect the "dreaded" vacuum lines and sensors for the engine management located under the hood. This includes the distributor Vacuum Advance and the Choke Pull off and of course the choke operation itself. Another possibility to consider is if the engine thermostat is stuck in the open position and not allowing the engine to reach its full operating temperature. Some of the sensors for the smooth operation of the engine are calibrated to operate and respond with the engine at its actual designed full operating temperature.

Accurate diagnosis with this type of problem is more than half the battle and we hope that the above suggestions will help lead you to a quick and successfull repair.