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April 27, 2009

65 Power Window Issues

Hi Bill-

I have a great 65 Lincoln. Currently only drivers wing window
works and rear driver side window. I have a parts car with a functioning
master switch I installed still the same two windows working. Any ideas?


-Matt in Oregon


Power windows can be real tricky and time consuming. If you are planning to do your own repairs you should have the appropriate manual for a 65 as well as at least a 12v test light. I would start by testing for power at the power window motor feed plugs of the non operating ones. This is why you need the wiring diagram in the manual. If you are not repairing the window operation yourself, your mechanic will be gratefull that you have a manual for him to use. At Lincoln Land we are able to test, rebuild or supply new switches for your 65 if you do require any. Those 65's by the way are real nice Lincolns. Keep us posted on your progress.



April 24, 2009

Vacuum Leak


I Wish to THANK YOU for the Blog and Information being passed along.
You "Hit the Nail.... on the Head" with saying Leak's are a Cause of the HL Cover's Opening which lead's me to another Question.

Inside the Right Side "Kick-Panel" I hear a "sssssss" type sound of flowing air, which I assume is a Leak. What is Behind the Panel and Does it have one of the Control Valve's you mentioned (in Ron's question) as being sold as used ?

Keep Up the Great Service !
Las Vegas



If you are hearing a vacuum leak behind the kick panel, it could be the Autolamp module. This unit opens and closes the h/lamp covers automatically when the Autolamp feature is on and operating. There could be a vac. hose pulled off on the outside or the inside of this module. The unit may also require repair or replacement. Contact us further if you cannot easily repair it and find that you do need a replacement.

Good Luck


April 6, 2009

Timing Chain Controversy

Hi Bill,
I have a 67 Lincoln 2 door with the original 462 under the hood. I have read online and heard from different folks that I should replace the original nylon timing chain with a more reliable steel timing chain. I was wondering if this is worth spending the money on. I have not had any problems with the original timing chain, but I don't ever want to have any problems with it either. I also have other projects on the car that I feel might be a higher priority. I guess my question is, do I really need to replace it with a steel chain, and if so how soon do I need to worry about doing this? I have not had any performance issues so far, but if this is what I got to do than I will. Thanks for your help Bill.

Jon From Spokane

Hello Jon

Your question is a good one as well as a controversial one. We too at Lincoln Land have seen many opposing opinions discussed "on line". There are many items to consider before you decide and it should be a personal decision based on your own needs. For instance your engine may have already had the timing gears and chain replaced or the engine was driven and maintained in such a way that the nylon is still in great shape. This can happen. Replacing the timing set requires the removal of other common problem items to consider replacement of such as water pump, power steering pump and seals and the engine vibration damper. It can even lead to wanting to remove the oil pan to clean it inside and maybe to even replace the oil pump "while you are there". Your statement that you do not want to ever have any timing chain problems can only result in one choice....replace it....but your other statement indicates that you don't want too if you don't need to. So you see it is a decision that you must make carefully based on your wants and needs and the history of your Lincoln in general. Please feel free to contact us to discuss it further at any time.



April 2, 2009

Sluggish Engine - Is It Time For An Overhaul?

Hi Bill,

My 1962 Lincoln is a very sluggish car. I used to have another 62
Lincoln and it had way more get up and go! I have done a few things
to help the car gain more power, but none of them have really done all
that much to help. I did a compression test and got the following
readings: 1) 130 2) 135 3) 135 4) 130 5) 125 6) 130 7) 125 8) 130
Here are the readings after oil was added to the cylinders1) 1402) 140
3) 140 4) 137 5) 125 6) 130 7) 135 8) 130
The compression in the shop manual is 180 +/- 20. I have some smoke
coming from the oil breather, but not tons of it. When the cap is on
it is really not all that noticeable. There is also a bit of smoke
coming from the valve covers. What could be causing such a large drop
in compression across the board that is so even? I am thinking it
could be the timing chain. Possibly a worn cam? Maybe a worn cam
gear? Exhaust valve seats messed up by unleaded fuel? What in your
opinion would be the most likely cause?

Thanks :)

Hi Landon

Before jumping into an engine overhaul, did you make your tests with a warm engine? The engine should have been warm with the spark plugs out. If the above was done correctly I would address your "Very Sluggish" concern first by checking the following.... Fuel supply to carburetor.....Condition of plugs, points. and wiring.....Ignition Timing including the condition of the damper pulley. This pulley has the timing marks stamped on it and the outer part is known to slip on its damper rubber and thus indicate incorrect timing on your timing light....... The Vacuum Advance Unit on the distributor is also a very popular item to leak internally not be able to advance the timing at engine speeds above idle. The reason that I make the above suggestions first is that I think that this engine should have more power than you describe with this compression. If all of the above is absolutely verified to be correct and you still believe that your engine is just "worn out" and that a complete rebuild is in your future, then I would have its internal condition ascertained by a competent on hand mechanic.

Sincerely and the best of luck to you