Bill's Corner

Bill,

I'm new to this, but I thought I would give it a shot.

I recently acquired a 62 Lincoln Convertible, it used to turnover and start on demand, then the battery went dead, but was still able to start by jumping it. Finally I bought a new battery for it (not sure if this is relevant or not, but the old battery had 750 CCA's, the new one I got and put in had 810 CCA).

I hooked up the new battery it fired right up, and all was well. Then the next day I go out to start it and nothing. Won't even turnover, all I get is a clicking sound when I turn the key. That clicking sound is coming from the breaker/fuse box on the passenger side firewall. I opened the fuse box and nothing's blown, then in the lower half of the box it all looks OK, nothing is loose and all connections are secure (I'm not sure what that part is called in the lower half of the fuse box, if you know please inform me).

The starter is new and all connections are good, so that shouldn't be the problem. If you could help me out in any way shape or form please feel free, this car is too beautiful to just be sitting there and not starting for some simple reason over a part that is easily replaceable.

Thanks,

Nate

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Hi Nathan -

Congratulations on your recent 62 Continental convertible purchase. These are great cars to own and cherish and can give you many years of happy ownership. They are however not known as low maintenance vehicles.

If the batteries that you are using are new and are in good order in all respects and if jumping the battery still restarts the engine it sounds to me that some electrical item is discharging your battery during the time that you are not starting the engine. Perhaps a light such as a glove box light or a courtesy light etc. remains on at all times that you are not aware of.

Another possibility is that the charging system may not be charging the battery or could have an electrical fault that is actually robbing power from the battery when the engine is not operating. In any case if you are not skilled in automotive electrical diagnosis and do not have a wiring diagram or shop manual I would advise you to fully recharge and then disconnect the battery when you are not starting the engine. This action will prove to you that your battery is or is not the culprit until you can find the "power draw" gremlin or locate a technician that can do the correct diagnosis for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:55 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have a 1986 Town Car with 37K miles and I am having trouble with the fuel gauge. It has frozen up on empty and won't release to the correct position. I had it replaced in 2008 and the new one has done the same thing. I have been told its an issue due to the ethanol in the new gasolines available currently. I had a friend tell me to run some fuel system cleaner through it and it should clear it up. He said put three of the fuel concentrated bottles in one tank of gas and it should work. Is this recommended or should I pass on this advice? Looking forward to your response.

Thanks.....

Mark
Tuscaloosa, AL

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Hi Mark,

Nice car. I had an 86 Town Car and found it to be a great car. We are not experiencing the ethanol problems with the fuel sending units as you are describing. One of the most common failures that we see that cause an empty reading from the fuel tank unit is a float that has developed a leak. This causes the arm to sink and remain in the "empty " position. We can rebuild many of these units or supply the float if you would need it. If you believe that your issue is caused by the tank unit you could remove it and inspect the float. If the float is breached we can easily supply a new one. If the float is ok and the problem appears to be internal you could send the unit it to us for further testing and or rebuilding. I hope this helps you to a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:36 AM | Permalink
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Bill,

I am working on a 1961 Lincoln Continental, and I am having trouble with the charging system.

I have had the generator rebuilt and replaced the voltage regulator with a new unit. At idle the generator light is shining brightly. Once I get the vehicle off idle the light goes out and the generator charges. Is there anything I can do to remedy this problem?

The car has to be close to 1000 rpm before the light will go off which is obviously to high for idle speed. Is there a spec as to how many volts the generator should output at idle? I understand generators do minimal charging at idle, and you can expect the light to flicker at a stop with the headlight or other accessories on - but at idle with a fully charged battery and no loads it should not be on brightly.

Have you ever had this problem?, and if so do you have any recommendations. I have checked the system over multiple times and I cannot find any problems. I am starting to consider finding a smaller pulley to speed up the armature. I am out of ideas otherwise. I would be glad to supply any other information or answer any other questions you have. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Brian

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Hello Brian,

I agree with you that the generator light can come on at periods of idle and electrical loads, but should not be brightly lit at the higher RPM's.

If you believe that your charging rate is excessively low at idle and engine speeds above idle according to the generator warning light, you can verify the charging voltage with a volt meter hooked up to the battery terminals. The voltage to the battery as supplied from the charging system must be higher than the battery voltage in order for the battery to charge and that charging voltage must not be excessively high or an overcharging condition will occur.

I am assuming of course that the wiring on your Lincoln is correct and in good operating condition and has not been modified. The battery also must be in good all around condition and able to receive and store a charge, etc. If you feel that the above is correct then your next step is to revisit the regulator and generator. New regulators and generators can and do fail. If your rebuilder is local, he should be happy to verify that the generator and regulator are operating correctly for you on the car. If not, many local parts houses such as Advance or Autozone, etc., also offer this service at no charge.

I hope that the above suggestions help but if you are still having problems with the diagnosis or need parts assistance, please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:34 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill -

I just purchased a 79 Mark V with 25,000 original miles. The brake lights were on and the brakes looked a little frozen, so I did a complete brake job (front and rear). I was able to turn the rotors. The brakes were original and rotors had never been turned.

The brakes work perfect but the brake light is still on, I replaced all of the brake fluid and bleed the brakes. This car does have the Sure-Track system. How do I know if this is a Sure-Track system issue? I did notice that the 4 Amp fuse was missing so I replaced that. The brake light is still on. Where do I start looking to trace this problem?

Also, under the dash, just below the radio is a female plug with 14 posts. Nothing is plugged into this. What is it? I cannot seem to locate it in the service manual. Is this a plug for some type of an electronic trouble shooting meter?

Everything on the car works properly, including accessories, radio, power sun roof, power seats, power windows, etc.

Thank you

Nick

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Hi Nick
I assume that you are speaking of the brake warning light on the dash and not the brake lights at the tail lights. The usual problem with the dash warning light remaining on is caused by the switch in the proportioning valve remaining in the unbalanced position. The brakes must be bled as per the MANUAL as shown in the brake section regarding centering the switch action to turn off the light. To prove that this switch is indeed the problem it is located under the brake master cylinder and can be unplugged to see if the light then turns off. If the light turns off when it is unplugged, the system will need to be bled as described above or the switch is frozen in position and will need to be unfrozen or replaced. After you investigate this issue further, if you need more advice please contact us directly.
We are not sure what your 14 pin electrical connection is or if it is a factory connection but it could be a part of a factory Citizen Band Radio option. The cars of that vintage did not have a diagnostic plug under the dash. If you can send us a photo we could probably identify it positively.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:30 AM | Permalink
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Bill
I have a '66 Convertible (C-level, driver-type) in need of some minor repair and possible restoration so I wanted to get your ideas.

First problem is the driver side door handle is broken and the housing/console that holds the electrics has come detached from its mount. John Cashman (the Lincoln guy?) traveled thru Pensacola and worked on this and other issues a few years ago but it's now become totally detached from the door. I assume the entire piece will need replacement and have emailed the parts dept there to get info as well. Is that something a local shop should handle or is it too unique?

Also, I have ongoing battery/power issues and it even stopped while running once. Trouble shooting by my mechanic appears to narrow to electric window problems drawing the power down over time but he's really not sure. Never seemed to do this until over the last year. Any other ideas?

Just to add, I don't drive it that often, mostly on nice weather days and usually 1-2x a month but less now given these problems.

Last question, I'm not looking for show car level but if I really wanted to bring it up to a higher condition, I'm not sure how to go about finding someone, what would you recommend?

I appreciate your input.

Thanks,

Greg

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Hello Greg -

Welcome to our blog. I understand that John has already spoken to you regarding your armrest issues. Your ongoing electrical power problems should be diagnosed with the use of a correct wiring diagram for your 66. Suspected circuits can then be isolated in a logical sequence in order to "pin down" the faulty component. Popular items in our experience have proven to be.....Faulty battery, alternator, regulator or interior lights remaining on etc.

Your last question can take in as much territory as your personal needs and desires will allow. There are not many limitations as to the amount of time and money that can be spent in restoring an automobile such as a Lincoln Convertible. In your case a good strategy might be to pick out one or two items and bring them up to good operating condition during a period of time. You can then enjoy the vehicle in between these repairs. Or if you reside in a location where the weather is wintery and you wish that the car be left at a repair shop for an extended period of time then you must choose your restoring technician very carefully. He must be acquainted with the luxury aspects of your Lincoln and he must be willing to work with you regarding what your wants and needs are. Please contact us directly at Lincoln Land and ask for Chris or John and we will give you further advice based on your lcation and personal needs are.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:20 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I just bought a 1988 Mark VII Bill Blass in pretty rough shape cosmetically. It seems to run real good, except I noticed that the gas pedal is hard to push, and at distance drives, my leg and foot get tired from the forceful stance I have to take to keep an even speed. Is there a way to fix That?

Thanks so much,

Rob

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Rob -

If the accelerator on your Mark VII is actually more difficult than others to operate I would check it by disconnecting the accelerator cable from the throttle body at the engine to determine if the cable is the culprit or if the throttle body itself has become stiff. Doing this will tell you which part needs to be serviced. Another thought is that a previous owner may have modified the cable or throttle body to compensate for a poor throttle return issue. The above inspection should be easy to do and you can contact us again with the results for further advice.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:35 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I bought my 66 Lincoln Continental Convertible about 11 years ago and have been slowly restoring and upgrading it over the years. One problem which has always haunted me is the brake lights. No matter what I do, I am unable to get them to work by depressing the pedal. I initially suspected the brake light switch and electrical issues. I removed the switch, depressed the strike plate, and the brake lights came on. So, fortunately there was not an electrical issue. I had a mechanic install a new booster assembly since I suspected the old one was on it's last leg, but still no change. I did find a minor leak on the rear brake hose and replaced it as well. I conducted a very thorough bleeding of the brakes once this was all done. There is a good solid pedal and good stopping. But still no change in the brake light situation. I have had several different recommendations as to what to do next, but I needed to consult with someone with proper knowledge first. I have been told to find a way to adjust the length of the rod, add an additional booster, etc. My only other remote suspicion is replacing the mess of vacuum lines throughout the car. I have discovered several cracked or split lines and repaired them, but there are many more to go.

Any help or advice you could offer would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.

Thanks,

Jeremy

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Hi Jeremy -

Your 66 Convertible is a great car to have and is well respected among all of the car collectors. The brake light switch because of its design must be tested for continuity in the installed position with a 12v test light. While testing, the switch and its wiring must NOT be distorted so you may need a helper to depress the brake pedal for you. If the switch worked while you tested it off of the car and will not operate in the installed position the switch may still be faulty or there could be some missing switch installation hardware. A shop manual would be a real asset to you for any repairs if you do not already have one. Please try this test again as described above and call us with the results or for further advice.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:15 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,
I bought a 78 Lincoln Continental. I noticed that when I turn my key to the on position that my warning lights don't come on such as the engine, alternator, washer fluid, in dash blinkers, etc. I changed my fuses and accidentally got the radio to play. The car sat since 1996. I noticed that every time I start it, something else starts working like the power seats and power antenna. I'm no mechanic but could it be simple enough for me to figure out or should I go to a shop. I stumbled across this site tonight and I'm loving it already.

Thanks,

Daryl

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Daryl -

From your description of electrical issues and the fact that some accessories are starting to operate on their own as you try them it sounds to me like you have a variety of bad electrical contacts. The car has been stored for a lengthy period of time in an unknown atmosphere that seems to have caused this to occur. The only procedure that I can suggest at first glance is to select an non operating item and carefully trace its electrical power path. For instance power from the ignition switch in the run position exits on a red wire with a green tracer and leads to the alt. warning light circuit and fuse number three in the fuse box etc. Testing the electrical circuit should be done in a logical sequence and most definitely with the CORRECT wiring diagram at your side. With the correct 12v test light you or your technician should soon be able to locate and correct any open and or poor contacts that you find. We hope that the above will get you started in the right direction. If you need any further advice etc. please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:06 AM | Permalink
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"Rolan! the damn car won't start"

These were the words that myself, my brother and sister heard many times throughout our childhood and into adulthood.

It all started on a January morning in 1972. It was a cold that morning with a bright sun, snow was everywhere but the roads were clean. and in front of Northwest Lincoln-Mercury, in Schaumburg Ill. was a shiny 1969 Lincoln Continental Sedan, ready to come home.

My father was very proud, my mother happy as she just "one upped" her sister who drove a 1968 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham..Mom had the newest car.

As we grew up, moms frustration with the Lincoln grew.. Dad was always at the short end of the stick, with no answers except, "I'll look at it"

You see, the car would start up fine when cold, after being driven a while, then turned off, and tried to re-start.... it would rawr, rawr, rawr and would not start. (slow starter drag) many times with a car full of kids and groceries, we would have to wait the allotted 15-20 minutes until it would start.

Once we got home, dad would get the wrath of mom... It was something we just got used to with the Lincoln over the next 25 plus years.

Fast forward to today - "finchie" has overhauled Engine/transmission/rear end/HVAC and all associated components... and guess what, she still has the same issues..

On my first trip out to Starbucks, and very proud to have car back from the shop, I got the same issue, rawr, rawr, rawr... That old feeling was back...

I could heard the echoes of my mom yelling at my father saying... "Rolan! the damn car won't start", all I could do is laugh, drink my Starbucks coffee and wait my allotted 15-20 minutes before the Lincoln will start... I even called my brother to tell him to guess what I was doing, we had a good laugh....

Bill - So what is it with these Lincolns??? My father is no longer with us, but Mom is and for some strange reason, I'd like to give her the answer that he never could.

Sincerely,

Rolan

P.S. The Lincoln and Cadillac occupy the same driveway space and are happy together....and a huge Thank you for all the technical support, parts sales!

****************************************************************************************************************

Rolan -

Are you sure that you want to spoil family tradition by correcting that starting issue? A 15-20 minute wait sounds like "coffee time " to me!

Hot starting issues indicated by "slow starter drag" as you state are usually caused by a high starter draw, a bad or weak battery or poor wiring in the starting circuit. If the car has had this problem since it was new we can probably rule out the battery but a wiring fault and or a bad starter motor could exist though for all of these years since 1969. Some factory defects can survive for the life of a vehicle if they are allowed to go on unaddressed. I assume that the engine timing and the general tune up conditions are in good order as these can and do contribute to hard hot starts. Another item that can cause hard hot cranking can be bad engine bearings. I know this first hand as my 1970 Lincoln suffered with this until I changed the bearings. It is of course well advised to begin by looking at the smaller easier to repair possibilities first as described above. Because this issue existed from when the car was new I would examine the starter circuit wiring very carefully as some wiring faults can be hidden deep within the insulation. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:55 AM | Permalink
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Good morning i have a 74 Lincoln Mark that won't keep a charge on the battery. I have replaced the battery, the alternator and temporarily bypassed the voltage regulator. At the battery while the car is running, I get about 13 volts unstable. With the replacement of the regulator cause me to get a good full and reliable charge?

Sincerely,

A.J.

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A.J. -

To answer your question simply, replacing the voltage regulator will solve a charging problem ONLY if it is faulty. The alternator, regulator, battery and their related wiring work together to keep the battery in a charged condition. Even though you have installed another battery and alternator the possibility exists that one of them could still be the problem. New parts can be bad. Because of this your charging system along with the battery should be tested using the correct equipment in order to pinpoint the failed part. Many local automobile parts stores offer this service at no charge. They will do these tests on the car or if you remove and bring the parts to them. At the same time I recommend that the battery be tested in order to verify that it can actually receive, hold a charge and be able to withstand a load test. If you are confident that the alternator, battery and the wiring is ok you may opt to install a new regulator as a test.

You don't indicate in your information if your battery is always undercharged, dead overnight or weak after several days etc. so another point to consider is the possibility of a power draw from another area in the vehicle. Many times in the past we have found that items such as courtesy lights, glove box lights, clocks etc. can discharge a battery after a period of time if they are faulty or remain on. We have also found that alternators that perform well with the engine running will draw power after the engine is shut down. I hope that the above helps to resolve your problem. If you need any further advice feel free to contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:29 PM | Permalink
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Getting a 66 coupe in a trade.. always liked the 66 my dad had several of them when i was a kid and i wish he was still around to ask this question to,... Is there anything outside of the normal stuff that i need to look out for on this car? it has a rebuilt engine that seems to run strong except the carburetor needs a rebuild. it as a little bit of a coolant leak coming from the fitting that is indeed the back of the intake manifold.. looks like it could be a gasket. other than that every thing works.. and the body isn't bad. no rot that i can see anywhere.. . it drives well and stops on a dime. needs exhaust but hell, i would replace that anyway.. the only thing that i think doesn't work right is the AC.. it is all there but there is no freon in it.. (are there any good R-12 replacements out there). i cant think of anything else to tell you.. except it seemed to be running a tad hot when i opened the hood.. but with an engine that size i can see heat would be an issue.. I have never messed with a MEL but i understand some of the differences but not all.. Is there anything i need to look out for or be aware of?

I am getting ready to move to Modesto CA.. and I want to make this car my daily driver so any tips you can give me for reliability i would appreciate it..

Thanks a ton! Glad you guys are here for us morons! lol

Mike
Omaha NE

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Hi Mike -

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your 66 Lincoln purchase. It sounds like it has been looked after and is in real decent shape. You have already uncovered an exhaust problem and a coolant leak so rather than give you a long list of possible other problems I will make a few suggestions since you are moving to another part of the country.

Even though the brakes appear to be in good working order they should be inspected for that long road trip. The steering linkage, suspension and tires should also be checked and all worn parts and tires replaced. If you plan on keeping the car you should consider also purchasing the necessary Ford shop manuals as they can pay for themselves in a short time. The Lincolns are all built with many "state of the art" (for their day) luxury devices that can eventually fail in time. Not all cars have the same parts and systems fail so it is best to get some experience with your car and make a list of issues as they appear. You can then tackle these items one at a time. As I stated above, your car sounds like it was looked after so many of the usual issues may have already been addressed. There is a popular site available on the Lincoln and Continental Owners Club ( LCOC ). It is a website that can easily be found and you can read about the many problems that others have encountered and their repair procedures etc. I think that you will enjoy the reading and gain more knowledge on all years of Lincolns on this forum.

In my opinion there is no real substitute for the r12 refrigerant but there are several refrigerants that have proven to be acceptable to many owners. If you ask twenty people you could get twenty answers. When you are located at your new address you can ask the other owners that visit the many local car shows in your new location. They will be aware of what refrigerant product is acceptable and legal in that State.

We sure hope that the above helps you and if you need any parts or further advice for the 66 you can count on us at Lincoln Land to help you.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:24 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill -

I'm having trouble with the #5 main cap to the crank shaft. I can't remove it. Is there a way to remove it that I don't damage the cap or the crank shaft.

Thanks,

David

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David,

Because of the design of the sealing surfaces on this rear main cap removing in can be very difficult in many cases. I consulted with Erik Dalemans here at Lincoln Land and he advises as follows. The cap has two threaded holes that serve as an attachment for the oil pan. He sometimes needs to thread in two longer bolts into these holes so that the bolts can be used as leverage to gently rock and pull the cap free. Tools such as vise grips etc. can be used on the bolts to carefully rock or pry the cap free and guide it down and out. Advising you with the situation that you are in is difficult at best without actually being there on scene. With a little patience and care you should be successful. I do hope that the above helps you. If you have any further questions please contact us.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:55 AM | Permalink
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Bill,

On my 1969 Mark III the headlights will flash wildly and there is a weird buzz that occurs when the headlight dimmer trys to change either high to low or low to high. The headlights come on fine when first turned on but drive 3-4 minutes and the flashing begins. I no longer drive it after sundown.

Patrick

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Hi Patrick,

I assume that you have the Automatic Headlamp Dimmer option. If so it sounds like the Photo Amplifier unit is faulty. It is located outside on the cowl near the windshield. I would try unplugging this unit and then operate the headlamps to see if they then operate normally. If so you may need another unit as these are non serviceable. There is also a Power Relay unit in the circuit but your description sounds like a Photo Amplifier issue as discussed above. Have you tried operating the headlamps with the beams locked on low position. This as you may know is operated by the foot dimmer switch that is located at the left floor area near the left air vent outlet and is visible in the carpet. Pressing this switch with your foot will switch the beams from Hi to Low and you should hear no buzzing or experience any automatic Hi /Lo beam switching when in the Lo beam position. The Autodim feature only operates in the Hi beam position. You also don't say if there is a reaction when you adjust the sensor dial behind the headlamp knob as adjusting this this may help or change the situation. At Lincoln Land we would however try another relay and if that fails to correct the erratic operation we would then try the Photo Amplifier. If you have more information after trying the adjustment or would need any parts or further advice please contact us at any time. The procedure for troubleshooting the Automatic Headlamp dimming is provided in the Shop Manual. This manual would be a benefit to you.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 2:56 PM | Permalink
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Bill -

I have a 57 Premiere with 64K miles on it.... Had the brake booster replaced and since then, it is undriveable. The brakes are so tight that anything more than 1/2 inch of pedal movement threatens to throw you thru the windshield. Very difficult to manage on an incline, so it sits in the driveway. How are these brakes adjusted so it is driveable again? I have other cars from the era so I know that power brakes and steering are different but not like this.

Thanks in advance,

Richard

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Hello Richard -

Brake issues such as you are experiencing should be actually road tested in person by anyone who is trying to diagnose a problem. If I am understanding your description though you are describing a harsh and very sensitive braking action that is hard to control. Your statement..... "had brake booster replaced and since then it is undriveable"..... may be the key to the problem. I believe that you should consult with the shop that rebuilt and or installed the booster and advise them what you are experiencing. This condition is not uncommon and in many cases the cause is an incorrect usage or installation of a repair part. The rebuilder will probably be concerned and will advise you exactly what action to take as this type of braking action is undesirable can be unsafe. If you can provide us with any additional information or would like to discuss this further please feel free to contact us at any time. I do hope that the above helps to quickly resolve your problem.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:31 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I Have a 79 Mark V Collector's Series, 20K miles with a mystery problem I am at a dead on. When engine is cold it takes up to 50 pumps to get started. 3 years ago it took 10 to 20. Once started it runs perfect in every way and restarts when warm with a half pump.
Car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gas and air filter. Linkage seems tight and normal, butterfly closes as it should on first pump. A good spray of carb cleaner into the carb helps it to start easier.

Logically it seems like gas in draining back and all the pumps are bringing fuel back to the carb but several people tell me this is impossible. Most parts on this car are original
Once it starts choke seems normal. Slightly higher idle for a few minutes, then normal
No gas odor, no exhaust smoke. No sign of flooding.

You can see why I need your detective work....

Thank you Bill,

Charlie

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Hello Charlie -

Some of these cold start problems can be frustrating but sometimes the answer turns out to be simple. An engine requires a strong battery, starter motor, good ignition and a fresh clean fuel mixture to start. When cold the engine also needs a richer mixture. Assuming that your ignition is in good order as you are indicating I think that you should examine the fuel system first. The choke on a cold engine start should be fully closed even while cranking. When the engine starts the choke opens slightly and continues to slowly open completely as the engine warms up. Fuel in the carburetor should be available in abundance at this time for the correct mixture. You tell us that the addition of carb. cleaner helps it to start easier. For this reason I think that you should hold the choke open on the cold engine and carefully observe the inside of the carb. with a light while pumping the linkage. This is of course is done with the ignition key OFF for the purpose of checking the fuel availability to the cold engine from the carb. If the ignition is strong and plenty of fuel is pumped into the carburetor at this time and the choke is operating as described above the engine will start. If fuel is not pumping into the carb. during this test you have a fuel delivery problem to the carb. or the accellerator pump inside the carb. is faulty. You would then need to check for a plugged fuel filter at the carb. and then perform a fuel pressure and volume test. This is outlined in the manual and will reveal if there are any problems for the fuel to be able to flow correctly from the tank to the carburetor. Fuel cannot drain back from the carb. and into the lines as the vehicle sits unused but if the car has sat for a long period of time the fuel can evaporate and deteriorate. In this case a few seconds of cranking will replenish the fuel bowl if the fuel delivery system is performing for you as designed. You may discover during the above tests that your problem is indeed a fuel delivery issue and that this ciircuit will need a complete inspection and maintenance. This service is normal for a vehicle of this age. I hope that the above provides you with "food for thought" and helps to quickly locate the starting problem with your MK V. If we can be of further help with any advice or parts etc. please do not hesitate to call.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:58 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 62 Lincoln which I imported from the States to Australia this year and now are trying to put back the Vacuum tubes to the right spots as many of the lines have been disconnected by the previous owner.

I have several Diagrams and workshop manuals of the Vacuum circuits but none of them explain clearly the second Vacuum tank under the passenger front guard. It has two lines coming out of it and am assuming one goes

to the right hand heater temp regulator valve, but not sure of the other line or if the Vacuum tank is partitioned off in the center making it act like two tanks as I've seen on a drawing with a line through the middle of the tank.

On my 62 the left hand tank feeds the break booster as well as the left hand heater etc.

Regards,

Dale

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Hello Dale,

That 62 will be a nice car for you in Australia. The vacuum tank at the right fender in front of the right front wheel is as you suspect, a dual tank in one unit. It is actually partitioned inside and is used as two separate vacuum reservoirs. One section is for the Heater or Heater/Air Conditioner vacuum supply, and the other section is for the Power Door Lock vacuum supply. The Heat and AC section at that canister is the ONLY vacuum supply for that complete circuit ( left and right heater ). The vacuum reservoir at the left fender is ONLY for the Power Brake booster. If you feel that any of your vacuum diagrams etc. are inadequate we should be able to supply you with further information. We hope that the above helps and we look forward to looking after any of your future requirements that you may have.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:54 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

Just had two quick questions for you.

On a '69 Mark III, I just replaced the blower motor. I've connected everything back together the way it came apart, and now air only comes out of the defrosters no matter what setting I have it on. I don't believe I missed anything. What could cause this?

Issue # 2: How do I get the wipers operational in that they shut off when I turn them off. Right now, I can turn the knob all the way to the left, yet they still remain on until they decide they want to shut off, i.e. I could be driving around for 4 days with them on.

Thanks in advance for any insight you may have!

Dan

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Hi Dan -

Both of your problems could be easy for you to correct. Your 69 Mark as well as others has an automatic default to the Defrost mode if the Climate Control system looses vacuum. When you replaced the blower motor you probably dislodged a vacuum line. The most likely place is at the ATC box or the recirc vacuum actuator as they are next to the right kick panel area at the firewall. You would have been working in that location. Check carefully near that or any other area where you were working for a vacuum line that is unplugged.

If the wipers are slow to turn off you should check the wiper motor cable adjustment which is located behind a small removable panel behind the engine at the firewall. The wiper motor hydraulic hoses can be seen passing through this panel. It is a simple cable control that can be adjusted for a more complete "off" position of the wiper motor control lever. The other possibility is the vacuum bleed for the windshield washer vacuum actuator. This feature sends a pulse of vacuum to the wiper motor when the washer button is activated to allow for several swipes of the wipers in order to clean the windshield. This vacuum is bled off after a few seconds and the wipers stop. If the vacuum fails to bleed from the vacuum hose the wipers will remain on. The small bleed off module is located in the vacuum line near the brake booster and is easy to clean and adjust. In some cases the wiper motor will need to be replaced if the adjustments do not correct the problem. If you are not familiar with this wiper system or the adjustments and need further instructions, call us at Lincoln Land and ask for Al Baker. He will be aware of your recent enquiry. I hope that this helps you correct the problems quickly.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:16 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

Thanks so much for your time. Quickly about myself. I'm ASE and I-CAR certified in many areas. I own and run a small business in classic car restoration named 'Take It To Hart'. Auto repair and restoration has been my passion for well over 35 years. I eat, sleep, dream and at times bleed oil.

Much of the comprehensive work you will read isn't just due my dilemma. Moreso, this is just the way I tend vehicles and/or provide maintenance.

The vehicle: In using the 'Condition Rating System', I'd rate my Mark V continental as category 2. No real restoration has ever been needed. Other than belts, tires, carb., etc., things remain original and intact. This Mark was issued an appraisal several years back of over $12,000.

I am the second owner of this '79 Mark, with only 59xxx original miles. I know the original owners quit well. The Mark looks fantastic, rides and preforms just as fine as she purrs.
Over the last month; motor/trans. cleaned and detailed. Oil/filter, trans. fluid is either fresh or at manufactures acceptable range/viscosity/life expectancy...

Tune-up: new is/are the control mod., coil pack, resistor, cap, rotor, alt., wires and plugs. All air filters too have been replaced along with the snorkel tube and the likes.
Cooling system (no kinks) new: radiator just before I purchased made purchase, cap (16lb.) water pump and gasket, coolant; correct type correct with the correct mix balance, coolant hoses and clamps, second thermostat and gasket, all vacuum lines and a number of vacuum/sending units, (water valve and the like are operating as designed).

The A/C is 134a. I only operate the a/c for liberating itself. I want to recall the car having an air pump for emissions. I also want to recall not having a belt installed. If this is correct then the car has been this way prior my ownership, and long before any overheating / boil over issues. All other belts replaced and adjusted to the correct tension specs. Shroud is fully intact and without flaw. The fan too is undamaged. (I don't see, nor can I find any info. on-line as to a clutch like drive to the cooling fan. I want to recall however that when I replaced the water pump there was only a very small coil spring. Hum, maybe not. At present I would have to say the fan is directly driven off the crank.

Last week when I replaced the coolant hoses, I took off the heater core cover cap. There wasn't debris inside the case. All was resealed at re-assembly.
I haven't any fluids mixing together, nor do I blow smoke from the tail pipe at any point in time. No kinks and/or obstructions in the exhaust lines/pipes. I could stand to tighten the exhaust manifold to tail pipe a bit.

Am I missing something? Lord, I don't want to hear heads, or block in your reply.... just kidding on this last part. I can't tell you how appreciated any food for thought would be at present. A mere and measly 4xxxx mile is all I've been able to put on the vehicle since ownership. For over 6 years it's been one thing following another. Literally. The prior owner has no recall to overheating. They are even older school then I, and only provided service when something broke. Today I'll install a back flush. Old school thing for me be this un/necessary.

Again, many thanks!
Suffering from the Queen Mary blues
Darrell

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Darrell -

For your overheating issue I need to ask you a couple of important questions before replying. Does the overheating occur at a steady highway speed or is it during times of idling or in heavy hot traffic? When the overheating begins do you notice the Hot engine light is on or do you only notice Boiling over and steam etc. from the engine?

Bill

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Wow, Bill, what a quick reply. I was only hoping to have such a turn around time. I'd be happy to send you pixs of the Mark if interested. Thanks also for your compliments on my tending her and her needs. Most importantly, I've very excited to be a part of the group. I hope that in some way I can make my own contribution.
I'll be short and brief at this hour. As for your questions...

1. Does the overheating occur at a steady highway speed or is it during times of idling or in heavy hot traffic? The actual spew/boil over is when the car is shot off. I'm unsure if I'm spilling during idle. As you could imagine, I don't want to be idle when I've begun to smell the coolant, so, I'll slow up so I don't have to stop. During these conditions I do most anything to be making my way home. I've had this car towed 5 plus times as I was just too far from home. I'd hate to do any permanent damage. This car isn't new so a limp hope is more less out of the question.

2. When the overheating begins do you notice the Hot engine light is on or do you only notice Boiling over and steam etc. from the engine? I've learned to keep an eye on the instrument panel light but am always disappointed. The light lights, but never during the moments I'd expect it to. When the ignition is turned off, after about or around 1 minute, I begin to hear the boiling from the overflow can. I keep the hood closed as not to damage the paint. Once i know any possibility of spewing is over, I allow the hood open for a quicker cool down.

I hope I've answered your questions, Bill. So, in other words, I've not really allowed the car idle when on the road to know if spew, boil, boil over would occur if idle. I've NEVER noticed the instrument panel light on during any time I'd think it should be on. When cranking for motor start, the light in fact lights.

I'll attach one of my most fav. pixs of the Mark. It was taken a year or so back. Even then I was having issue.

Regards, and again, thanks so much Bill.

PS, I hope you enjoy the pixs I've attached.

Darrell

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Hi Darrell -

From your description of the parts that were replaced to correct the overheating and loss of coolant it appears that you have covered all of the bases . I also notice that you state that the radiator was replaced prior to your purchase of the vehicle. This suggests that someone was addressing an overheating or a loss of coolant issue at that time. Since you don't say if anyone has tried to diagnose the problem when it occurs and I am not there of course at the time I will give you a "laundry list" of possibilities for you or your mechanic to consider. These suggestions are based on our experiences at Lincoln Land with these conditions.

Coolant strength may be too weak

The thermostat could be installed upside down

The rad. cap could be incorrect or defective.

Engine timing could be incorrect.

The cooling flex fan could be installed backwards ( these 400 cid engines had a 5 blade - 18 ½ inch diameter blade )

The radiator ( even if new or newly re-cored ) could be incorrect, faulty or woefully undersized.

Internal engine gasket problems

As I stated above Darrell these are only suggestions and possibilities. In cases such as this we sometimes need to backtrack and carefully consider that there may be problems with some of the work that was previously performed. If all of the above is "correct" in all respects then and only then the engine should be inspected by a good known engine technician for an internal problem. I do hope that this helps you and turns out to be an easy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 3:14 PM | Permalink
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Bill -

1989 Lincoln Town Car. Starts and runs rough. Gas smell under hood, believe it is fuel injector o rings, but don't think that is my biggest problem. Can get response from gas pedal in park, but in drive poor acceleration. Little or very slow response from engine, even when pedal to floor in drive gear. New plugs, wires, fuel pump, fuel filter is one year old. Any suggestions?? Starts all the time, but may have to push pedal to the floor to start in morning.

Gerard

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Gerard -

Any fuel leaks are a priority as they can sometimes become dangerous in a very short period of time. Not knowing the history of your engine and because it has a sophisticated for its day "computerized engine management system" you will need the correct diagnostic equipment to pinpoint your problem. There are several sensors and controls as well as an EGR valve on your engine that may cause part or all of these symptoms and sometimes there can of course be more than one system failure.

For the above reasons I hesitate to hazard a guess that may send you down the wrong trail and strongly advise that you seek out a good Tune Up shop in your locality. In the long run you may be $s ahead. If you do require any parts, manuals or any further information do not hesitate to contact us.

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:45 AM | Permalink
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Bill,

Looking for some info for my uncle. He has 79 Mark V that has been sitting for years due to needing a new ignition module. He picked one up and installed it but is still having issues. He says that he only gets spark AFTER he releases the key (starter). He recalls this happening in the past, but the car would catch and start. He called me for some ideas and it seems that the info on these cars is pretty limited. Was this a common issue with these vehicles? If not, do you have any suggestions for troubleshooting? Also, are there any manuals available?

Thanks,

Teresa

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Hi Teresa -

I wish that I had a nice niece that could fix my cars. Based on the information from your uncle that the ignition system has spark Only when the key is released and assuming that the correct ignition parts have been installed, the circuit should be carefully tested using the appropriate wiring diagram. This condition is not unheard of but is not a very common problem. The culprit can usually be found in a wiring connector or the ignition switch etc. and for this reason the wire that sends power from the ignition switch to the ignition system in the Start (cranking) position must be tested in a logical sequence until the fault is found.

We do have the proper wiring diagram and or manuals available at Lincoln Land and can arrange for them to be mailed to your address. Ask for George or Chris when ordering as they are aware of your situation. I do hope that the above helps and I commend you on your accurate description of the problem on your uncle's Mark V.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:28 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill -

I found the 20 amp breaker were you said it was and it is tripping out so i tried another breaker and it runs longer but still kicks out.I notice that there is a lite blue with red runner with the brown wire should this be there.Also since the breaker is kicking out this means to much amps is this right and what amps should i be seeing from the blower motor and then the AC compressor or is there some thing else i should check first that can cause problem.Also the black power wire is warm to touch and you said it can be ignition switch and the switch stud off the back of switch is warm to hot.please advise.

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Ron -

Slightly warm wires are o/k. Any wiring that becomes hot should be investigated. Since you have stated that the breaker only blows with the blower on high the blower could be drawing too many amps. If you have the equipment as well as the knowledge and want to do a draw test on the circuit, that test could be done at the breaker to the brown wire and the blue wire with the red tracer. I don't have a wiring diagram for that blue/red wire but it is possible that it is correct. Perform the draw test at that point with the a/c on and the blower on high. The breaker is 20 amps so the total amperage draw should not exceed 20 amps. If it does exceed or is close to 20 amps unplug the compressor clutch coil and recheck the draw. On start up the blower will draw 7-9Amps, then drop to 3-4Amps maximum while running. If it is still high turn the blower speed to a slower speed. By unplugging and controlling the load in certain combinations you may be able to isolate the excess power draw. I trust that you did install a New and not used breaker.
Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 4:25 PM | Permalink
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Hey Bill -

I have a 65 Lincoln Continental I have been putting together and now I am getting the AC working and if the AC is on and the fan is on high the fan kicks out and compressor stops running. I can turn blower speed fan switch to low and go back to high and it works again then kicks out again. If I leave on low AC keeps running OK I can unplug compressor and run the fan on high and will not kick off. The compressor is new and don't know what amps the blower motor needs to be at on high. Then say it has a circuit breaker instead of fuse but don't know were this is at to see if it is kicking out and resetting. Have you seen this concern.

Ron -

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Hi Ron -

I agree with you on your diagnosis and that the circuit breaker is a good place to start testing. Use a 12v test light on each side of the breaker contacts when the a/c "cuts out" to find out if the breaker has actually failed. There are of course other possibilities such as too high a power draw from the blower or clutch coil but there is a good and better chance that the breaker has "fatigued" and will need to be replaced. This breaker feeds the a/c and heater circuit with a Brown wire and one Black Wire will be located behind the right kick panel inside the car. Test this breaker carefully and accurately as I have indicated and replace it if necessary with a new one. If the breaker tests o/k and does not open when the system cuts out the next step will be to test the blower switch as the a/c clutch power passes through this switch as well as the blower speeds. The whole a/c heater circuit receives power from the ignition switch and it also is a candidate for failure. In any case starting at the Circuit Breaker is a good any easy place to start. Please let us know how this works out for you and if any further advice, literature or parts are needed please contact us as needed.

Sincerely,

Bill -

Posted by Bill at 1:30 PM | Permalink
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Bill -

I'm finishing up with my previous E-mail message to you about my Mark V stalling on the highway then restarts in a couple of minutes. Well................all of my electrical components were replaced, leaving just the fuel system to worry about. Before I spent the money on a fuel pump pressure test, however, I replaced the fuel filter. The old one seems to be ok (I could blow through it). Today I pulled my car out of storage after 4 years and drove it from Ocean Shores, WA to Tacoma, WA without any stalling problem. That Mark V is an absolute joy to drive.......one of my best cars of my life - ever.

Thanks for your advice Bill.

Tom -

P.S. Two more questions:

(1) Headlight covers will pop up after sitting awhile. Where is the usual vacuum leak located at?

(2) Although my front chairs will recline and straighten up.......and the lumbar system works as does all the other switches on my arms consoles..............neither seat will move forward or backwards. Apparently the same fuse control all systems...........so apparently this is not a fuse problem. Why then will my seats - both the driver & passenger seat - not move forward nor backwards?

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Hi Tom -

The vacuum headlamp cover system and its problems has been explained at length in several previous blog posts. The causes of failures can be more than one, so you can use the search feature on the blog to locate them.

As for the seats not working "fore and aft" or "front and rear tilt" etc. the problem "usually and commonly" turns out to be caused by dried out lubricant inside the seat transmissions etc. Sometimes these transmissions and gears can be TEMPORARILY freed up by lightly tapping the side of a suspected component. While these items are not serviceable - we could supply you with a good used assembly if needed. Other problems have been found sometimes in the switches, wiring and the seat motor areas. If you will need any of our available information literature to help diagnose any of the above please contact us at any time. Hope that the above helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:43 AM | Permalink
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Good Morning,

I saw your postings on the internet and hoping you can help me.

The car has 118,000 miles on it. Everything is still original but hadn't started for 2 years.

I put a battery and gas in and started right up, however the front seats would "click" when the doors were open, but nothing was moving.

The next day I drove down the street to run some gas through it and this is where my problem starts.

Car sputtered when I got on the gas, I cranked it back up and then it sputtered and did the same thing. Knowing I need to get a fuel filter and also rebuild the carburetor.

Well my problem now is the car doesn't get power. I disconnected the power from the battery and re-connected it. When I did this, I heard the drivers seat "click".

I turn the key in the "on position and I get all my dash lights and the door buzzer. As soon as I turn the key once more, the drivers seat "clicks" , I get no dash lights and the car does not turn over.

I then shut key off and try it again....but this time I get no dash lights, no nothing. I have to physically disconnect battery then connect it again to get the "dash lights and the click in the seat"...again car does not turn on.

I went and bought/installed a starter solenoid and voltage regulator and still I get the same problems.

Gary

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Hello Gary -

The click sound from the front seats sounds like the normal sound of the seat back release solenoids. When the door is opened this feature enables a rear seat passenger to easily fold the front seatback forward in order to enter the rear seat area.

Your power problem sounds like the classic bad battery cable connection, bad battery cable or bad battery. The existing poor connection is able to handle an electrical load up to a point and then it heats and disconnects and at that point you have "no power" any where until you reconnect the battery again. You can start by fully servicing the battery cable connections and at the same time examining the condition of the cables. A battery load test and condition test may be a good idea at this time as well. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:11 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 88 Lincoln Town Car .... Love it !

The problem I have is a little bizarre... When the engine gets hot, the engine rattles like hell. It almost sounds like a card in a bicycle wheel spoke. I have owned many cars and trucks and have worked on them all, but have never heard anything like this.

When the car cools down ..... it's like nothing ever happened. I have changed the water pump, thermostat, and cooling lines. My next step will be to flush the coolant system. My mechanic mentioned a retarding system in the ignition to help cool the engine down, but I have never heard of this... Any suggestions? I'd love to hear some.

Thanks,

Bill
Upstate NY

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Greetings Bill -

I have not heard of a noise such as you are describing as many strange sounds need to be heard in person in order to try to diagnose them correctly. You also do not say if the noise can be heard only at idle or while driving. From your letter though you seem to believe that it is making this sound only when hot and that the engine is overheating. An overheated engine can indeed make strange noises and should be repaired ASAP. if it is in fact overheating.

Not knowing the maintenance history of your car two important items to consider are the Thermostatic Clutch on the engine cooling fan and the Radiator itself. This clutch unit is well known to fail and many technicians have been fooled by a cooling fan that appears to be cooling properly but in fact is not turning fast enough as designed because of a bad clutch. Your Lincoln is also old enough at this point to possibly have a radiator that is partially plugged enough to cause overheating. A radiator that is thought to be in a plugged condition would need to be disassembled and cleaned or re-cored. I am not familiar with a retarding provision on that vehicle help to cool the engine.

If the above does not appear to help and if you can provide us with some more information we may be able to help with further advice etc.. We do have parts on hand that you may require so please feel free to contact us at your convenience.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:58 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

We just bought a 1972 Lincoln Continental, all original. In great condition!! Couple little fixes and one of them is that the headlamps stay open when you turn off the car and the AC seems to blow cold, but then shuts off and then spurts cold air again.

The mechanic I took it to says we need to replace the valve fast idle cam (someone else called it a vacuum manifold?) its a 9 port and he says it controls the entire vacuum system.

I have read some of your older posts and wanted your opinion, we're having trouble finding the part. May have located an original.

Are we in the right direction on the repair, or any other suggestions? and any recommendations on where to get this part, or its part number?

Donna
Mammoth Lakes, CA

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Hello Donna -

Nice car to have! They look great and command plenty of attention. These two issues that you describe are not related and my opinions will be based of course only on the information that you have provided.

If your mechanic has diagnosed the vacuum headlamp cover issue correctly he is referring to the vacuum distributor that is located on the firewall on the engine side. It contains a vacuum valve that functions to lock vacuum in the Headlamp Cover vacuum circuit when the engine is off or at times of low engine vacuum. This valve can fail. We should have that item in stock in good used condition. Be aware however that any vacuum routing in the circuit also may be at fault and there could be more than one leak.

Your description "the AC seems to blow cold then shuts off and then spurts cold again" sounds like one of the two relays on the engine side of the firewall or its connection has failed. The High Blower Relay will operate the blower at high speed until the A T C begins to moderate to a point that the relay will hand over the High blower speed to the automatic lower blower speeds. It is at that point that these relays are well known to fail internally. We will have these in stock or we offer a service to test and rebuild your relays.

Again, the above is based only on your information as well as what we encounter here at Lincoln Land on a daily basis. Further diagnosis may be necessary. If we can help you further with any of the parts or services as described above or if you may require any Shop Manuals for your 72 Lincoln please do not hesitate to contact us again at any time. We do hope that the above helps you with your repairs.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:50 AM | Permalink
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Hey Bill -

My name is Alfred and I read your post and I still couldn't find the right one for me so I decided to ask my own question.

I own a 1968 Lincoln Continental with a 462 Engine. I'm having an issue with either the Carburetor or vacuum related. When I got the car it wasn't running, and had many leaks within the cooling system. The problem I'm having is that when the vehicle is being driven and I begin to accelerate, the car acts like it wants to die out and shut off.

It starts up great and idles fine. Please help me... I believe I might need a vacuum diagram for the car.

Sincerely,

Alfred

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Hi Alfred -

Welcome to the Blog. Those 68 Continentals are really great cars. I drive a real nice 68 coupe in Florida for several weeks in the winter. The car belongs to Chris Dunn's Dad. I drive it in order to exercise it and have any maintenance work performed on it that it may need.

When you receive one that isn't running as you describe there is a good chance that there could be many issues that need attention in the "tune up" and carburetion area etc. Not knowing the history of your Lincoln or how long it sat unused, I can offer the following areas as "starting" points. A complete tune up which would include Distributor points, Condenser, High Tension wiring, Vacuum Advance and Spark Plugs should be performed. A sharp hesitation on acceleration as you seem to be describing is an indication of a worn out accelerator pump within the Carburetor. This will likely lead to a carburetor overhaul and fuel delivery inspection. The above basic items are good places to start as they must of course be in top working order on any engine.

You also express a need for an engine area vacuum diagram, while there is not a specific one for your 68, we do offer the 67 version which will be the same for your 462. I highly recommend that you purchase a Shop Manual in addition, as these manuals pay for themselves in a short period of time. I hope that the above helps and If we can assist you further please do not hesitate to contact us at here at Lincoln Land.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:17 AM | Permalink
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Hey Bill,

I have a couple minor problems with my 1978, but the two I am most concerned with is one, I have no dash lights and the a/c-heat switches don't illuminate either. The gauges work fine just not the lights. I've checked the fuses and they are fine. Haven't checked the bulbs but I figured if it was the bulbs in the dash then the a/c-heat switches should still illuminate as well.

My second question is for some reason, when I shut the vehicle off the head light flaps close but when I start the car or turn the ignition on the headlight covers open up even when the lights are off, almost as if something is wired backwards or maybe something with the vacuum? Not sure its been this way since I've bought it which is approaching two years ago and I am not fixing the minor details. I would appreciate your help, thank you for your time.

Nick

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Hi Nick -

The seventies Lincolns had some very modern up to date lighting systems available for their owners. You don't tell us if your Lincoln has the optional "Autolamp" option or not. Autolamp is an automatic lighting option that turns the headlights, park lights and instrument lighting on at dusk and off at dawn. It is explained in your owners manual and the Shop Manual. The Shop Manual also explains the procedures to properly diagnose the systems. In any case it would be better for you to start the process with the Autolamp feature in the "off" position as the power for the dash lights originates from the Headlamp switch and its dimmer rheostat coil. We have previously posted some Headlight and Autolamp diagnostic ideas on our blog and George will reprint these or post the links here for you to read.

We are not sure if you intend to perform these diagnostic tests yourself Nick, but it would be well advised for you or your mechanic to do so with the proper wiring diagram and at least a good 12 volt test light on hand. At Lincoln Land we do these tests with the Shop Manual at our side. These manuals can save a lot of time and money.

I do hope that the above helps to guide you to a quick repair. If you need any further advice or literature etc. or if you would like us to test any of your lighting components for you here at Lincoln Land please do not hesitate to contact us further.

Sincerely,

Bill

P.S. Here are a few links to previous posts - you can always use the Search Function on Bill's Corner to find previous posts on a given topic - George @ Lincoln Land

http://www.lincolnlandinc.com/blog/2011/05/1985_town_car_autolamp_problem.html

http://www.lincolnlandinc.com/blog/2011/03/1978_town_car_autolamp_-_auto.html

http://www.lincolnlandinc.com/blog/2009/07/1978_mark_v_headlamp_vacuum_is.html

Posted by Bill at 1:58 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I just read this Bill's Corner blog article and the problem described sounds familiar to me:

http://www.lincolnlandinc.com/blog/2010/08/1963_possible_vapor_lock_issue.html

My problem is that when cold, my '63 Continental Convertible starts fine; but after parking it for a while, it won't restart until the engine is fully cooled again.

My fuel pump was replaced a few years ago (the invoice shows an "FP 6848" as the part) and it is missing the heat shield as described in the blog post.

It is also missing a return vapor line to the fuel tank - only 2 of the 3 hoses are connected.

(I've attached a photo of the fuel pump in the engine compartment for reference)

I'm wondering whether I should:
1) order the parts necessary to install a return vapor line (I have no vapor discharge valve)
2) order a heat shield (though the screw positions don't look like they'd match the aftermarket pump I currently have installed)
3) order a whole new pump and
4) or something else?
Your advice is much appreciated!

Thanks
C.Y. Lee
1963 Lincoln Continental Convertible

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Hello C.Y. -

Is your engine cranking o/k when hot? If not the starter and battery circuits must be checked and brought up to par. If the engine cranks fine while hot or warm but will not start then some basic tune up items need to be inspected (during the non start event). A fuel pressure and flow test should be performed and corrected as required as well as a complete ignition system inspection and tune up may be in order. An ignition system that has not been "tuned up" for some time will certainly cause hot start problems.

All of the fuel lines and hose problems should of course be restored as you are suggesting but your problem should be diagnosed properly in a logical order as described above. This will prevent unnecessary replacement of parts and extra expense. Your issues could well involve some of the items as indicated in your Lincoln Land Blog link but correct diagnosis is half the battle. I hope that the above gets you started in the right direction. We are available for further advice or any parts that you might need for your repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:37 AM | Permalink
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From time I purchased this car a loud air noise occurs when applying the brakes. The car drives and runs, under all conditions beautifully including stopping. Is this a problem that historically occurs in the booster at some point while not impacting brake functioning, and what might be the fix? My thanks to you and your great service to all of us.

Bob

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Hi Bob -

We are pleased that you are enjoying the forum as well as your lovely Mark II. The noise that you are describing sounds to me like a vacuum leak within the Bendix Treadlevac booster as it occurs according to your description only during brake application. Among several other suspect parts inside this booster there is a rubber vacuum hose that can expand or rupture and cause this hissing ( this has happened previously with my 54 Capri ). Not knowing the maintenance history of your car though the possibility also exists of course that perhaps the booster and cylinder assembly may be overdue for a general inspection and overhaul. We can if you wish make arrangements to do this for you or have it done for you from Lincoln Land. If you have no access to this service locally please contact us and deal with George or Chris as they are aware of your issue.

I hope that the above helps you to a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:57 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 65 Continental with a 430. After driving around for a little while, the engine starts knocking while I accelerate. It doesn't do it at idle or while driving, just while accelerating, especially around turns.

I did do something stupid. I was showing the car off to a friend and left the A/C running while the engine was at idle. The car over heated, and I've noticed the knocking ever since then. The other problem I have is with over heating. The engine doesn't have a
shroud (original owner lied about not having it, long story), so I had a custom aluminum shroud with an 11" electric fan built. I thought that would take care of the over heating, but it operated exactly the same.

I have replaced the thermostat, but not the water pump, or radiator. I have ran water through engine and it comes out just fine, with no back pressure. I have also ran water through the radiator, again it flowed just fine. I'm considering replacing the radiator, thinking the inner workings of the radiator might be clogged up.

Any advice will be appreciated. I have numerous other issues, but those two are really
keeping me from enjoying driving Violet around. :)

Thank you for your help and your time.

Josh
Norman, OK

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Greetings Josh -

I'm sorry to hear about your recent engine problems. It does sound from your description that your engine has been under a lot of stress and has reacted accordingly. In my opinion the overheating condition should have been properly addressed at a much earlier date. The description of "engine knock" takes in a lot of territory and needs to be examined by a competent technician with the proper test equipment. We of course cannot determine from here if the knock is a carbon related knock, upper engine tap or perhaps an engine bearing knock therefore an on scene inspection and an accurate diagnosis is necessary.

If your engine is actually overheating and from your description it is, this issue must be addressed as soon as possible. When your Lincoln was delivered to the first owner the cooling system was capable of properly cooling the engine in any weather condition in any State in the U.S.A. I have always believed in maintaining the the original cooling system to an optimum condition in any vehicle. Any deviations such as you have done are o/k as a personal touch ONLY if it works and the other basic components are in GOOD shape. The other basic components consist of among other items the radiator, the water pump, fan blade and its clutch and the engine coolant passages. The radiator could easily be partially plugged up along with the engine coolant chambers. What you observe flowing through the radiator could well be only 40% of what a clean rad. is capable of passing and cooling. A good radiator shop can remove the end tanks and "rod out" the rad or "recore" it completely. I don't know what your fan shroud looks like but your mention of an 11" electric fan in my opinion is woefully undersized for that radiator and engine.

I hope that the above helps you get started on the road to recovery and if you need any original parts or specifications do not hesitate to contact us further.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:55 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

Thanks for your response. The head lights do come on manually. I have a manual, however it was unclear to me as to the to the next step to getting the autolamp to work.

Another question I have on my 85 Town Car is the common problem of the interior door panels. Two of the door panels are just starting to crack due to age not wear. They make door overlays and the local upholstery guy would try to fix it. Please let me know what is your opinion on repairs for interior door panels.

Regards,

Scott

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Hi Scott -

If you have the FoMoCo shop manual the diagnosis is fairly well stated. Which manual do you have and what steps are unclear to you. We may be able to help with better factory information. Sometimes a trained eye is also needed to clear up certain diagnostic procedures. There is also a possibility that some of your "used" parts may be defective and they may need to be sent in to us for some tests.

We have been successful to a point with certain repairs to many interior trim panels. Would it be possible for you to send us pictures so that we can better assess yours? We also have a limited selection of good used ones that may prove to be a better choice for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:05 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 1985 Town Car Signature Series with 34,000 original miles.The auto-lamp doesn't work. I have replaced both relays on the fender well, one for the auto-lamp, and one for the auto hi-beam, and I checked the fuse. I replaced the headlight switch and found a couple photo cells in the junk yard and still it doesn't work. Please let me know if you have any suggestions.

Regards,

Scott

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Greetings Scott -

If all of those used parts that you have installed are in good working order, and you have replaced the correct relays and fuse etc., then you should perform the diagnosis as outlined in the Shop Manual.

Do the headlamps operate manually? The Manual suggests as a first step to turn the Autolamp switch to the Off position and to operate the headlamps manually. If they do not operate manually then you would need to check out the simpler manual non Autolamp circuit. If the headlamps operate OK manually, then you need to continue with the Autolamp diagnosis.

We may have the necessary diagnosis information available if you require it. I hope that the above helps you.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:30 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a '78 Mark V, with a 400 engine, from California. It has become very hard to start at times when cold. It will turns over fine. When trying to start I depress the pedal to the floor and slowly release as per the owners manual. The car almost starts but won't run. On the second attempt I have tried holding the pedal to the floor, 1/4 throttle and not depressing the throttle but no go. When I leave it for about an hour it fires up great without touching the pedal. It acts as though it is flooded but holding the pedal to the floor does not allow it to start. When warm it starts great and when it does start it runs fine. I have pulled the spark plugs out when it won't fire and they do smell of fuel. The plugs are correct as per the local Ford dealership. It has an electric choke. Does the choke need adjustment? It did start just fine, seldom on the first attempt but always on the second attempt. The ambient temperature has gone up since I bought the car, early spring temps were around 0-5 Celsius to 15-20 Celsius. Could this also be a factor?

Thanks,

Carman

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Hi Carman -

Welcome to the forum. The first check for this problem is to remove the air cleaner before a cold start and observe the cold choke operation while manually operating the accelerator linkage. The choke butterfly valve should snap closed to allow for a fast start with a rich mixture and then open slightly upon starting and continue to slowly open fully as the engine warms up. If the choke circuit is o/k and requires no repair then you must check to find out if you have fuel immediately available in the carburetor. If not, a fuel pump and fuel system test is in order.

For a cold engine we usually give the accelerator pedal a couple of quick pumps to set the choke, the fast idle and to pump some fuel through the carb for a rich mixture and a fast start. Assuming that your ignition and other" tune up" components are in good order you must also have the proper choke and fuel operation as described above. I hope that the above helps you to future quick starts.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 3:19 PM | Permalink
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Hello Bill -

I have a 1977 Lincoln Mark V which I have stored in my garage for several years, stopped driving it because all of a sudden the car developed a problem when traveling down the road then its engine would die. I have replaced all the electrical components.............wires, cap, rotor, modular, coil............not the condenser.....yet I still have the same problem. I will pull off to the side of the road..............then the engine will start up after a couple of minutes. Then drive a while longer until it once more dies.

What else can I replace in the electrical system that would eliminate this problem? This is NOT a CA car.

Thanks for your advice,

Tom

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Hi Tom -

The 77 Mark V is usually a reliable car and when these kinds of problems appear it is difficult to find a technician who is well versed in the all areas under the hood. I believe that the key for your repair lies with a correct diagnosis. Your description of a good running engine that suddenly quits and then restarts in that manner could have a fuel or ignition problem. If it is a fuel problem you or your mechanic should suspect a fuel delivery problem to the carburetor and a good place to start is at the fuel pump with a fuel pressure and volume test. Assuming though that you are correct and that the problem is in the ignition system you should be aware that your Mark has a very reliable solid state electronic ignition set up that was considered state of the art in 1977. These systems can and do fail with age and use. The system consists of electronic components that are located inside the distributor and under the hood at the fender apron area. The operation and diagnosis is described in the Shop Manuals.

Again Tom, the key here is to get an accurate diagnosis in your location performed by a good technician to avoid replacing items that do not need to be replaced. If we can help you further with advice or parts please do not hesitate to call on us.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 3:14 PM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have a 79 Continental Collector Series W/ the 400. After the engine is at operating temp and I let her sit for a few minutes, when I go to restart her I get the (RA RA RA) slow turn over like it's either too hot or the timing is too far advanced or maybe a problem with the starter. I have replaced the starter,battery, checked the temp with a digital thermometer, checked the cables. Checked the timing and just recently the timing chain and gears. ( Motor has over 200,000 I'm sure and it was very loose) I thought for sure this was my problem but alas it's the same as before. I have over 30 tears as a professional mechanic but this has got me stumped. Other than that she runs just fine. Please help.

Thanx,

Jim

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Hello Jim,

Welcome to our blog. Some of those slow cranking hot start conditions can be a real pain. The vehicles of the seventies were just getting started with fancy ignition and engine controls and were evolving constantly. You stated that you have a new battery, starter and that the cables are o/k. I would first want to make absolutely sure that the battery is the correct size for that 400 cid engine and that is fully charged and PROPERLY load tested. The starter as well should be tested HOT for a high draw and the cables and any engine ground straps should be carefully re-inspected. I know that you believe that all of the above is o/k BUT new parts do fail and if by chance something simple with the above is missed or ignored you may be led down some expensive and time consuming path.

Another item to consider is the base timing. Dampers on some engines are known to slip on their rubber internals which then can cause a wrong timing reading. If your engine was over advanced, hard hot cranking and starting could be a result. The original FoMoCo DURASPARK ignition and engine management on that engine was designed carefully for that engine along with several sensors and vacuum items. All of these management parts contribute to the operation of the engine. If you do remove or bypass any items or replace any electronics with aftermarket parts, you should be careful with choice of brand name and know what you are doing.

You also state Jim that your engine has over 200,000 miles on it. I would be interested to know what the engine oil pressure is with the engine at HOT operating temperature. I hope that the above suggestions help and that you find something simple. If you are still having problems, post back to us with that Hot oil pressure if it is low and I will tell about the strange hot start problem and repair that I had to do on my 70 Sedan.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 3:25 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have two beauties. A 1979 Town Car in need of some body work, and a 1978 that's as close to perfect for a 33 year old survivor. When I got the 79, the blower motor only worked on high, and after some research, I found it was as simple as the air conditioner fuse. Replaced it, and she blew as cold as she could, at all speeds.

My problem is I just bought the 78 and same issue. I figured "no problem. Replace the fuse when I get her home, and she'll work". Nope. No go. I did not have a circuit tester, so I swapped out the under hood/firewall mounted resisters and tested. Still only high fan. Have you seen this before? Could the issue be with the fuse box?

Perplexed,

Marc

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Hi Marc -

Your blower problem is a common complaint item on many cars as they age. The most common failure in the blower circuit on your Lincoln is the High Blower Relay or its connections which are located under the hood on the firewall.

At Lincoln Land we would usually start diagnosing in this easy to access area. When the high speed is engaged it sends battery power direct to the blower through a fuse link. When the lower speeds are selected the relay hands off the circuit to its lower contacts and the blower switch and resistor circuit. A test light and a shop manual are usually a requirement to quickly diagnose this circuit. If necessary we can rebuild these relays for you. Let us know if you need any further advice or possibly a set of shop manuals for this and any future repairs.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:21 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

I have one more question - I have a 1987 Lincoln Town Car and my uncle and dad decided to change my heater core because it started leaking. Now I don't have heat anymore.

Thanx,

Bret

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Hi Bret -

Sorry to hear that you have lost your heat after the heater core replacement. Some of those heater core repair jobs can be frustrating. I will assume that you had OK heater operation prior to the core change and will base my answer on that assumption.

It is unlikely but not impossible that another component has failed during the heater core change. The Temperature Control Sensor could have locked up in the full cool position and is causing the air to bypass the heater core but in my opinion this would be possible but not very likely. The engine thermostat could have stuck in the open position and is now causing the engine coolant to be overcooled. This has happened before. If the no heat problem was in fact caused during the Heater core replacement, then the fault lies with one of two things. The core itself is wrong/faulty or an error in re- assembly occurred. If a "used" core was installed it may be plugged. Vacuum lines may be re-installed incorrectly under the dash or the coolant level is low or air locked.

If what you are describing is only a loss of blower "fan" in the HEAT position and you have blower fan in the other control lever positions, this is usually caused by a failed Cold Engine Lockout sensor that is located in one of the heater hoses under the hood.

Their is no mechanic in the world that has not needed to occasionally "backtrack" or "double check" his work on a job to correct an error that occurred during his repair. I hope that the above suggestions help you and should you need any further help, repair parts or manuals please do not hesitate to contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:33 AM | Permalink
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Hi, Bill -

I have a 1987 Lincoln Town Car I have changed the water pump, starter, fuel pump, fuel filter, and the battery. I can drive it only for 30 minutes, and it will cut off on me but when I first got last year it never did. I really need your professional help because I do not want to sell it.

Bret

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Hi Bret -

This is not an uncommon problem for us, but of course it is quite troublesome when it occurs to you on the road. Not knowing all of the details in your case though I can offer the following based on our experiences at Lincoln Land.

The sudden shut off of the engine is usually caused by a failed electronic ignition component at or inside the distributor. The electronic ignition that was used on your era of Lincoln is an excellent design but age and use causes these components to eventually break down.

George Miller here at Lincoln Land has also offered that he had a similar problem with his that proved to be caused by the ignition switch itself.

Another possibility to consider is a sudden and intermittent fuel delivery loss that is caused by a failing fuel pump, or its electrical circuit.

In any case and in the interest of time and frustration, the system has a problem that needs to be diagnosed properly by a competent experienced technician at a local "automotive tune up shop" so that only the faulty part is replaced. I hope that the above helps you on the path to a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:46 AM | Permalink
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Bill -

My Mark III will not change from defrost, to heat, to dash vents, and I cannot turn heat off. Also noticed the rear vents will not operate. Can you give me some direction and what parts I should check for proper operation, and do you have these parts? Do you have a repair manual for my car? I would love to visit sometime!

Thanks,

Marv

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Hi Marv -

Very nice car and welcome to the Lincoln Land blog. We certainly would be pleased if you could visit our showroom and warehouse in Clearwater. You would be able to meet us and to see some very nice Lincolns and FORD literature that we have for sale and on display for fellow Lincoln lovers.

The description of your a/c problem sounds 99% like a classic loss of vacuum to the Climate Control and the Flo Thru rear vent systems. Loss of vacuum will cause the system to drive and default to full defrost and max. heat with the fan at high speed. The rear vent will also become inoperative at the same time. The Shop Manual set is very explicit on these complicated systems and is an absolute must in order to quickly diagnose the vacuum and electric features of all 1969 FoMoCo vehicles. If you wish, we can arrange to have a set sent to your address. I hope that the above helps and if you need any further advice or any parts to correct your problem please do not hesitate to contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 3:58 PM | Permalink
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Hey Bill,

I recently purchased a '78 Mark V with the power vent window option. The passenger window will lower fine but only the main window will go up and the vent glass will only move up a small amount (just the upper tip of the glass will come above the sealing strip). Is this an adjustment issue or do you feel the motor could be weak? If an adjustment issue where should I start.

Thanks,

Carman

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Hi Carman -

If the side glass is raising normally and quietly as you describe the motor should be o/k as this motor operates the side glass and the vent glass. Your first step should be to remove the door trim panel and inspect the mechanism. You will be looking for anything abnormal such as broken rollers, bent regulator arms or detached slides etc. We have found that there are several failures that can occur within the door. If you find that you cannot identify the problem and are unsure at that point you could then take your car with the trim panel removed to a trusted Automotive glass shop near your location and ask for their advice. This way you will at least save the labor charges to remove and replace the trim panel. Hope this helps you.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:05 AM | Permalink
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Bill -

To start my Lincoln, I have to pump the foot feed to get it started. After that it, starts OK. No big problem but would like to start after a pump or two. Thanks for any help.

Ray

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Hello Raymond -

Any cold engine that requires excessive accelerator pumping in order to start needs to have the carburetor choke inspected first for proper operation. When the engine is cold the choke valve (aka butterfly valve) should be closed tight to provide a rich mixture for starting. Upon starting the valve will open a small preset amount to lean out the fuel mixture and then continue to open slowly to the fully open position as the engine warms up. The choke on a cold engine will operate in this fashion in a cold, hot or warm climate. If the above does not occur you will then need to correct the choke circuit as required as per the shop manual. Of course all other basic engine ignition and fuel items must be in good operating order as well. I hope the above leads you or your mechanic to a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:59 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I know you're a whiz at this Lincoln stuff!!! A couple years ago, you solved an A/C Relay issue on my '89 TC while I was down in Clearwater visiting!!

I have a 1969 Mark which has a couple mysterious leaks which I cannot find the root cause for.

One is an oil leak, which leaks only after I shut the engine off, and only a couple drops, but enough so that I can't park the car in the driveway. It appears to be coming from between the Power Steering pump and front cover. I do have the seal installed correctly, put in place from the front of the cover, and the seal is brand new.

The other is an antifreeze leak which is allowing a small amount of coolant to pool in the valley (at the top) of the front cover, which leads me to believe its the front cover gasket.

All this being said, the engine was completely rebuilt last year and every gasket, seal, component is BRAND NEW.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan K.

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Greetings Dan -

Any of these kinds of leaks can sure be annoying and some can be tough to find. The oil leak can be easier to locate if you clean the area completely and then observe that location after shutting off a hot engine. There is a need to determine if the oil leak is engine oil or power steering fluid, of course it is best seen with the front end of the vehicle raised if possible. The front cover to power steering pump seal is best inserted into the cover clean, dry and coated with a good contact adhesive on the front cover side that dries quickly and completely. We highly recommend this procedure.

The coolant leak must be correctly diagnosed as well in order to not misdiagnose and end up dismantling assemblies that do not leak. Coolant leak areas should be closely observed with both a cold and a warm engine. Ideally the use of a cooling system pressure tester is best used to pinpoint the suspected areas. These testers provide the necessary pressure to diagnose without starting the engine. A good radiator shop should be able to do this procedure for you.

Always remember that ACCURATE diagnosis is half the battle. We hope that the above helps of course if we can help further with any parts or advice etc. please contact us further.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:50 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

Thanks for all of your good work on this very interesting blog. Thought I would jump in with a question on my 1987 Town Car. While out on its Spring shakedown run I noticed that the climate control system was not working in the "FLOOR" position (no fan operation) even with the engine fully warmed up. The system works perfectly (air temp is fine and fan operation is fine) on all other settings (for example, I can get plenty of hot air to the floor in the "MIX" setting). Any thoughts? Is there something specific I should be looking for?

Many thanks,

Garry

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Greetings Garry -

Welcome to our blog. Your no "FLOOR" air delivery situation is a common and annoying problem. In 99.9% of the time this is caused by an unplugged or failed CELO (cold engine lock out) or also known as TBL (thermal blower lockout). This unit is located in one of the heater hoses under the hood and its electrical function is to prevent blower operation in the FLOOR position until the engine coolant reaches a predetermined temperature so as to preclude unpleasant cold air delivery until the heater is able to provide heated air as required.

The two heavy wires at this sensor can be jumped together to eliminate the "LOCKOUT" feature which will allow for immediate blower turn on at any engine temperature or the unit can be replaced in order to maintain the full Climate Control function. If you have any further questions or if you would like us to arrange for the new part to be sent to your address please contact us at your convenience. We hope this helps you an thanks for joining our blog.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:35 AM | Permalink
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My 1970 Lincoln Sedan's C6 transmission switches gears a bit late. The 2-3 gear shift occurs normally as soon as the gas pedal is released, then acceleration can be resumed.

I have changed the modulator and made sure the downshift linkage was not at fault. No
change. The only remaining sources for this problem are the following: vacuum leak, worn seals, but there is also this: there was no metal rod (pin) in the modulator housing
when I changed it.. could this explain the problem? If so, do you sell this part?

I have some 1/8" steel wire, can I simply make a rod of this exact length? Second, I have this excerpt from a ford manual which says to "adjust the modulator to average weight" (its spring tension), is this indeed necessary? I don't know if my 1970 C6 has a shift kit however.

F.P.

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F P -

The pin is indeed vital for the modulator to operate and fits many many years of c6. The original p/n is C4AZ-7A380-A. It is 1"11/16 long and 1/8" thick. If you can't find one in your area we could supply one if necessary. Let us know and ask for Chris if you call as he is aware of this reply.

We don't make those pins here as you are thinking of doing because of course we have plenty from our parts cars. They don't break, shrink, rot, rust or burn out, etc. Therefore a used one is as good as a new one. It is too small and inexpensive a part to quibble over and discuss making one. You say that you do not know if your 70 Lincoln has a shift kit or not. We also do not this and I can't imagine anyone ever wanting to install one on a 1970 Lincoln. The real BOTTOM LINE here is that if yours is actually missing this pin as you say it is, just get one, install it and road test the car. If the pin makes it shift properly, great, you are done. If not then then you move on to the next step from there.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:57 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill -
I have a 1971 Mark III, when I purchased it, it had a Edelbrock carburetor on it and a spacer plate that looked like maybe it came from a t bird (aluminum with a rear tube and coolant pipe tube running through it on the right side). I purchased a 4300 carburetor and want the OEM spacer that belongs on the car now with the correct gaskets on top and below the spacer, a stud kit and stud for carburetor with correct wingnut. It looks like the OEM spacer was in the trunk but with a broken nipple end on the rear, this one was not aluminum and with just one nipple in the middle rear. I am guessing this is the correct setup, the nipple in the rear of the spacer is for the PCV valve hose is it not? Would it be the same if you connected the PCV valve hose to the nipple in the rear of the auto lite 4300 carburetor? If not what is the original set up for these fittings? I really would like a vacuum diagram for the engine compartment on this car the Ford-Lincoln manual I have really doesn't show vacuum routing diagrams on this 460 any way these parts I mentioned would help out great and also the choke heating tube gasket the tubes that come out of the assembly on the outside that are bolted to the intake manifold are two pipes that are broken off or cut at about 4 inches long. The pipe that is inside the manifold is fine and in good condition and I'm guessing one goes to the choke connector and the other one goes to the under side of the air filter assembly correct me if I'm wrong and I would like to know if this car or carburetor 4300 came with a dashpot for anti stalling I'm not sure on that either. I am a auto and truck mechanic just not a Lincoln Mark III mechanic LOL if that matters . Thanks so much for your time in advance.

Paul

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Hi Paul -

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your 71 Mark purchase. At Lincoln Land we see these carburetion modifications from time to time, but we don't really endorse them to any extent because of their inconclusive success history regarding gas mileage and or performance satisfaction etc. Almost all of our customers because of the nature of the Lincoln automobile hobby prefer to restore or maintain their vehicles to original.

At the present time, we do not have a car that we can photograph the details of the engine topside for you. If you have the Ford shop manuals you have the same information that we have. I can confirm that the original carburetor was a Ford 4300 and that it did have an anti-stall dash pot at the left front mounting stud. If you would like to send us some pictures of what you presently have on your engine and/or would like to discuss acquiring the original carburetion and emission parts, please contact us further and mention your blog inquiry as a reference.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:46 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have a 1978 Lincoln Town Car I recently purchased that has a 2 part problem with the Automatic Headlight Dimmer/Delay system. The first is the autolamp feature, when turned on, regardless of the position of the switch for the delay, the headlights never turn on, but the parking lights and instrument panel do, but turn off instantly, no delay, when the ignition switch is turned off. The second is with the automatic dimmer, when it detects oncoming light it will put the lights in low beam but does not return the high beams back most of the time. What do you think?

Dave

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Greetings Dave -

Congratulations on your recent Lincoln purchase. The popular Autolamp and Automatic Dimmer options are a real nice luxury option to have but of course can be a real pain when they fail. The diagnostic procedures are very well presented in the Factory Shop Manual and would be a great item for you to have now and in the future. Without being there on site to actually diagnose the system for you I can only at this time offer you some of the problems that we have encountered with them here at Lincoln Land.

If the parking lamps and instrument lamps are turned on Automatically as you describe but the Headlamps are not, this is usually caused by a bad connection or contact located inside the Amplifier module. Of course any wiring involved in that circuit can also be suspect. This is the reason that a proper wiring diagram as shown in the manual is a real plus in order for you to troubleshoot and pinpoint your problem.

The Automatic Headlamp Dimmer system is notorious for developing failed Amplifier Sensor units that are located behind the left headlamp assembly. This unit is completely sealed and not repairable. Again the tests for this option are well shown in the manual.

I do hope that the above helps and if you do require any manuals, parts or further information. please do not hesitate to contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:08 AM | Permalink
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Bill -

I'm enjoying your blog and have a question for you,,, My 79 Mark V has a wiper problem, I have bought another wiper motor and intermittent switch, is there anything else, like a timer box, that I may need to get the wipers working???

Thanks,

Mike

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Hello Mike -

We at Lincoln Land are real pleased that you are enjoying the blog. Your intermittent wiper system does indeed include an Electronic Control Module that is located under the dash and is in line with the Wiper Control Switch. Although this module is very well known to cause a problem such as you are describing we don't ever recommend to just "keep on replacing parts" without making the tests as shown in the Shop Manual. Of course we realize that if you do not have a manual or the necessary equipment etc. this may be the only way for you to proceed at this time. Other problem points to consider are as follows..... a poor ground circuit, an unplugged connector or a bad contact etc. somewhere that is causing the wiper system to receive no power at all.

Having said all of the above Mike, my hunch is that the above module is faulty as you already suspect. We can arrange at any time for one to be sent to your address whenever you are ready and if you need any further advice etc. in this matter please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:02 AM | Permalink
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Hey Bill,

I was curious if you could help me out.

I have a 460 7.5L engine in my 1968 Lincoln Continental. The issue is, when I try to start it up it barely turns over. When it does try to turn over it blows white smoke out of the carburetor.

I can't figure it out. I changed the spark plugs and wires, checked the distributor cap and rotor and its fine. Any other ideas you might have?

Thanks,

Christian

***************************************************************************************************************

Hi Chris -

Welcome to the Lincoln Land blog. I am confident that we can help you out but first we would need some further information. When an engine is not starting at all it is important for us to know how long that it has been since it last ran and also what was the running condition when it was last running.

In any case, in order for an engine to start it requires a proper fuel and air mixture, a good strong spark at the exact time to the correct cylinder along with reasonable compression and a good strong battery and starter. Without knowing the answers regarding the above and the history of your engine it would be difficult to pinpoint your problem but I can offer the following possibilities ...... Poor or no fuel delivery at all to the carburetor, old deteriorated fuel that will not ignite, inoperative choke, or your tune up adjustments such as firing order, etc. may be out of adjustment in addition to any of the above. The timing chain could have slipped a tooth or two rendering proper timing impossible. Any one or more of the above will contribute to a "non start condition" and I do hope that your problem turns out to be an easy to correct repair for you. If the above possibilities do not help, please supply us with more information as described above and we may be able help further to diagnose your problem.

Sincerely,
Bill

Posted by Bill at 1:23 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

From browsing your blog, it seems like you are as close to an expert on Lincoln's as can be. recently I bought a 1979 Mark V. The driver's door lock is frozen and the key will not turn it. The knob inside will lock the door however. My thinking is it's the cylinder. The question I have is with that light thing on the outside of the door that's supposed to light the keyhole at night. I have the interior panel off but am reluctant to try to take the lock cylinder out as i cannot see how its connected or works with that light. Is the cylinder attached to the light or is this a special cylinder that has the light built into it? The previous owner left the shop manual and it tells how to take out a conventional lock cylinder, but it makes no mention of the light.

Also, another problem you might be able to point me in the right direction on is when either car door is opened, I hear a soft clicking every few seconds, I noticed the knob on the seat back jiggles with each click. Do you have any idea what this is all about? Seems like a lot of people on your blog have electrical problems with their Lincolns. Hopefully you will have come across these couple I have here. Well, I would appreciate you emailing me any info you may have on the above things.

Thanks,

Robert

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Robert -

I have consulted with our technicians regarding your problems and have found out the following. The lighted door lock cylinder assembly is removed in the same manner as a conventional non lighted one (as your manual describes) but with the addition that you must disconnect the electrical connector at the unit. Therefore, if you have determined that the cylinder has become seized and that the key that you have used is correct for the ignition cylinder and the other door cylinder then you should remove it and have a locksmith repair it for that key.

The cycling action of your seat back release solenoids has historically proven to us to be caused possibly by faulty solenoids. However if both sides are cycling when their door is opened I would test for a voltage drop in the system at the battery or any relay or switch involved. Our technician also has advised me that the Shop Manual describes the test procedure for these Automatic Seat Back release systems. Your manual if it is the correct FoMoCo shop manual should also show this for you. If you need any further info. etc. please do not hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:35 AM | Permalink
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Bill -

I just purchased this car and the power door locks and windows do not work. Finding it hard to believe that all the motors went at once, I ordered a new safety relay. Fuses were good and other items on the circuit work (such as power trunk). I installed the relay and once I plugged it in it clicked telling me it is energized. At the drivers door there is power at the switch. Where do I go from here?

Bill

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Hi Bill -

Congratulations on your recent purchase. These 79 Town Cars are great luxury cars and usually provide years of premium service ......if they are maintained. If however they are not maintained when problems arise these problems only add up and need to be dealt with eventually. From your description, it appears that your window and door lock failures probably occurred not all at once but slowly over a period of time.

I would initially approach both the window problem and the power door lock problem from the driver's door switches with the CORRECT wiring diagram and a Test Light. You will be tracing the Power path for each outage to determine if a switch, motor or solenoid is at fault. Proper diagnosis is imperative. Common failures of these two accessories are as follows: any wiring, switches, window motors and gears and door lock solenoids.

We hope that this will help get you started and if you do need any manuals or parts etc., for your Lincoln, do not hesitate to contact us further.

Sincerely,

Bill -

Posted by Bill at 3:20 PM | Permalink
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Bill,

The problem I had with the transmission on my 1991 Lincoln was that it was shot. I found a transmission at a wrecking yard, the used transmission was rebuilt by Ford. I had it put on the car, and it works fantastically.

Now I have to work on the front end air suspension. The car sits higher on the passenger side, than it does on the drivers side and the passenger front tire seems to bottom out when I hit potholes.. Any idea on what I should try with this issue? Thanks for your advise,

Lincoln
Ogden, UT

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Hi Lincoln -

Maintaining the nice Lincoln ride and steering is important to most of us Lincoln enthusiasts. If your Lincoln has the 4 wheel air suspension it is computer controlled and requires some advanced suspension knowledge and diagnostic equipment. The first item on your list if you wish to embark on your own repair is to obtain and study the correct FoMoCo shop manual for this vehicle in order to form a plan. These manuals pay for themselves in a short time. Keep in mind also that all of the other suspension and steering items should be inspected at this time as well. Contact us if you would like the correct manual or any parts etc. that we may have for you to complete the repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:38 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have a 1969 Lincoln Continental. I just replaced the points, condenser, cap, rotor, wires and plugs. The point gap is set at .017, and the spark gap is set at .035 as recommended. I did not adjust the distributor/timing.

I also replaced the thermostat due to the old on being stuck open. The old thermostat that I removed was a 160 degree "racing" thermostat. I put in a 195 degree thermostat which the parts store said was recommended original temperature.

Since replacing these item, the engine now pings much worse than before. Also, once the engine is warmed up, it is very difficult to start once turned off, almost like a dead battery. Once the engine cools down, it starts fine and runs fine. Other than the hard starting and pinging, the engine runs great after the tune up. Could the warmer thermostat cause these changes? What else should I check?

Last question I have, would you know where I could obtain the turn signal / tilt arm with the cruise control? Mine is plastic and it is cracked.

I would appreciate any feedback.

Thank you,

Curtis

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Hello Curtis -

Since you indicate that the pinging and hard starting is now worse with the new tune up parts installed you must perform some critical final adjustments. Also be aware that the batteries, starting and charging systems in these 460 CID engines along with their associated wiring must be in very good condition in order to perform correctly. The points adjustment should be checked using a Dwell Meter and adjusted to 26-31 degrees. Next, the initial ignition timing must be adjusted according to specifications with the use of a timing light and the vacuum advance disconnected. If the timing mark is unreadable due to Vibration Damper slippage. the distributor can be rotated Counterclockwise in small increments to reduce the pinging. This can be done of course only while road testing the car. If the Vacuum Advance unit is the adjustable style, it should be tested to make sure that it is operating and adjusted correctly to approximately 3 1/2 turns from max. These adjustable Vacuum advances are shipped in the maximum advance position and will likely contribute to a hard ping condition if not adjusted to your 1969 distributor. This is done with an Allen key through the vacuum line nipple. The original advances are the "take apart style" and are adjusted with the addition or removal of washers and springs, etc. From your description, I believe that most of your concerns can be resolved with the above Dwell and Timing adjustments.

Your 195 degree thermostat is correct as these engines were so equipped when new. We hope that the above will help you to obtain a smooth running and easy starting car. Some of the above may seem difficult or unclear therefore if you feel that you need any further advice or Shop manuals please contact us at any time.

The Cruise Control lever is a very rare part - yours is a good example of most. We can not supply you with any better quality at this time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:10 AM | Permalink
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Hey Bill,

I just bought a 1991 Lincoln Continental. I was told that it needed a MLPS to get the car to drive. I put one on and I was able to move the car a little bit at a time. It doesn't seem to want to go any where. When the car is in neutral the car acts like it's in gear, but goes no where. When I give it gas it seems to bog down at a high RPM. When the car is in drive I can give it gas and it maintains a high RPM. I don't know if this is enough information for you. I Is there something else I should try? You have given good advise for my 1973 Lincoln Continental.

Thanks,

Lincoln
Ogden, UT

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Hello Lincoln -

The MLPS ( manual lever position sensor) and any linkage on an automatic transmission must of course be installed and adjusted correctly as you probably already know. Because of the description of your problem I would advise that you have a competent transmission technician sit behind the wheel of your car and give you an accurate diagnosis. Your description does sound to me like a transmission problem but one needs to be very careful that further damage is not caused by over revving a slipping transmission. An on site diagnosis by the right person will probably save you time and money in the long run. Let us know what you find out.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 1:54 PM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have a 1958 Lincoln convertible and have serious cowl shake between 35 and 45 MPH. The car runs smoothly at low speeds and high speeds but the shake begins at 30 MPH and ends at 50 MPH. The car is fully restored and everything is adjusted to factory specifications. The car runs perfectly straight and smooth at 100 MPH. My Lincoln is an early 1958 production unit and does not have the engine compartment braces. Would installing these braces eliminate the cowl shake? Is there anything else I could do to eliminate or reduce the cowl shake? It is very annoying and makes for an unpleasant ride because most of my driving happens to be in the 30 to 50 MPH speed range where the cowl shake is at its worst. By the way I am also missing the front underside corrugated steel reinforcing plate located near the rear of the transmission. Could this be causing the cowl shake? Thank you very much for any help that you can provide.

JNT

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JNT -

The kind of cowl shaking and shuttering etc. that you are describing can really make for an unpleasant ride in a fine luxury car such as a 1958 Lincoln Convertible. I fully understand your desire to eliminate as much of this as possible. You mention that "everything is adjusted to factory specifications" so I will assume that the tires and wheels as well as the driveshaft etc. are in balance. I also will trust that there are no loose panels or doors etc.

This series of Lincolns and Marks underwent many, many running changes during their years of production. It is no secret to us Lincoln and FoMoCo lovers that the factory engineers at Wixom were scrambling especially during the months following the 1958 introduction to eliminate the structural problems in order to improve the cars overall performance, handling and ride characteristics. Therefore I agree with you completely that any bracing, dampening or isolating features that were installed on later production vehicles would somewhat improve or eliminate many of the above annoyances that you are experiencing at this time. Chris Dunn has advised me also that some of the early production models - will likely continue to experience some of these issues, even if modified. I would seek out any of these "factory fix " items that can be located and have them retrofitted to my Lincoln. If you like, we at Lincoln Land will assist you in any way that we can to source out any of the required parts. Feel free to contact George or Chris here at Lincoln Land at any time for further help or advice.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:58 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

This is Steve again.I checked my thermostat in my '73 Lincoln Continental and I saw that it was stuck in the open position. I just replaced it last year. Now I replaced it again and it works fine. I have another question: My 73 Lincoln has 96,000 miles on it and I wonder if there is a way to find out if the timing chain was ever replaced on it, or if I need to replace it at all. Is there a way to check if it's worn out without taking it apart? I heard something like you have to turn the crankshaft by hand and watch if there is a dead play compared to the distributor rotor. It's a big job, that's why I ask. If I'll have to, is there a timing chain kit brand that you recommend?

Thanks,

Steve

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Hi Steve -

We're really pleased that you have found and repaired the cold engine problem. The timing chain and gear concern is a topic that has many opinions.... Some will advise that one should "not even drive" an older recently purchased car without tearing the front cover off and replacing these parts. It has been my experience however that a vehicle that has been maintained properly and driven in a non aggressive manner will not require immediate replacement simply because of the experience of other car owners. Vehicles that have been idle for years with old acidic oil sitting in their engines as well as those that have been exposed to heavy acceleration may indeed require replacement (or not). If you are embarking on a long journey with your car, and are really worried, or strongly suspect a problem in this area, then a replacement might be a good choice. The brand name of a good kit can also be a matter of opinion but I would definitely not buy on price. I would want to buy a "made in the U.S.A." product from a trusted supplier. We hope that the above helps you with the correct choice.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:39 PM | Permalink
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Hello Bill -

It's been awhile. I have a 1991 Lincoln Town Car that "eats" a the single belt about once a year. We replaced the alternator awhile back and discovered that we had to change the alternator pulley because of the belt's groove configuration. However, I have had to replace the belt within the last 2 weeks after about a year's use. The engine side of the belt was coming apart. It has been suggested to replace the belt tension pulley system as it may be pushing the belt unevenly. Any thoughts or suggestions on this?

Thanks,

Gregg

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Hi Gregg -

Welcome back to the blog. Replacing a serpentine belt every year is excessive unless you are running up many,many miles. I can offer the following suggestions without actually viewing your engine. The alignment of ALL of the pulleys and idlers to each other must be correct or the belt will continually Scuff in one area and wear out prematurely. The pulleys themselves must also ALL be correct for that 1991 engine. Finally, I recommend only a Premium quality belt be used. A competent well "seasoned" technician should be able to inspect any of the above for you and locate your problem. I hope that these suggestions help you discover an easy to repair defect. Please let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:33 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill

I have a problem whit my automatic transmission of my 1971 Mark 3. It looks like my transmission will not shift in gear properly? If I drive the car my gear will not shift up like it is supposed to do?? It will only shift up when I go down on the throttle, as soon as I let the throttle go and the rpm goes down it will shift into the next gear. I have to do this with all gear's. I also sometimes (lets say always !) have to move the gear lever up en down a couple of times to get the best position to go in to his drive gear. I have checked my vacuum hose and it has vacuum on it?? I hope you have some answers for me.

Greetings,

Ray
The Netherlands

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Hello Ray -

Welcome to the Lincoln Land blog. If I am understanding you correctly I think that you should first check the vacuum line which is located at the Modulator valve under the car at the right rear of the transmission. The steel line and rubber hose should not be damaged or deteriorated in any way and adequate engine vacuum should be available there with NO evidence of transmission fluid in the lines. Any internal leaks at the Modulator will require that a new Modulator valve will be needed. Secondly the transmission "kick-down" Rod should be inspected (with the engine OFF) for proper operation at full throttle position of the carburetor and for a return to the idle position (by a separate spring located at the carburetor) when the carburetor linkage is allowed to return back to the engine idle position. If this rod does NOT return as designed, the transmission is locked in a full throttle position. This Rod is located at the left side of the carburetor and connects to the transmission via linkage at the left side of the transmission. The above two items are important controls for the shifting of your transmission and are the first items that we at Lincoln Land would be examining on a vehicle with a shift problem such as you describe. As far as a problem with shifting into DRIVE is concerned, you should check and adjust your manual shift linkage as required as well as inspect for loose bushings etc., in this linkage. I hope that the above leads you to a speedy repair and if you should require any parts or further advice etc. we are at your service.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:54 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have owned my Lincoln for 12 years now and in the recent 3 years I haven't driven the car and now she wont start.

Before turning the car over I did the following: Drained and replaced all the fluids, including gas, oil, and power steering. I then replaced all the spark plugs and applied a little WD40 to each piston, then manually cranked over the engine about 30 rotations.

Here's the issues I am having.

1. Tried to turn the car over and a wiff of smoke came out from the fuse box and the ignition switch got hot and also produced a wiff of smoke. The key is now stuck and I cannot remove it. I tried sticking a metal rod into the hole next to the key but nothing has made it budge so far. We checked all of the fuses and none of them have popped.

Question to you: Do have any suggestions on what may have been smoking and should I replace any of the relays near the fuse panel.

2. I towed the car to a mechanic and today and he began by replacing the starter cycloid. When cranking the car over using the cycloid we are NOT getting any spark to the distributor.

One of the mechanics feels that it's the coil.

Question to you: Do you have any suggestions we should look at other than the coil?

And one last question, can you tell me where the ballast resister located?

Thanks so much for your time!

Best regards and happy holidays,

Don

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Greetings Don -

The ignition Resistor is encapsulated within the wiring harness under the dash and inline with the ignition switch wiring. If you are not familiar, a correct wiring diagram is necessary for reference.

As for the rest of your non starting problems you need to approach the situation with a logical sequence of testing in mind. As well as an excellent battery, starter, compression and wiring, you need proper (fresh) Fuel and Ignition in order for an engine to start and run. The above tests should be easy for a competent mechanic to accurately perform WITHOUT GUESSING. If your diagnosing provides you with more information on the problem please contact us further if you need to.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:42 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill!

It's Steve again with the 73 Lincoln warm up problem. I checked the engine during warm up, I took the radiator cap off while the engine was still cold and I saw that the coolant was circulating in the radiator. It's not supposed to do that, is it? The circulation in the radiator should start when the engine warms up and the thermostat opens up in the upper hose, right? I think my thermostat is open all the time. It's a brand new one, and I replaced it because I was having the same problem; slow warm up. Can it be installed in the other way, backwards?

Thanks,

Steve

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Hi Steve -

If you can see coolant vigorously circulating through the radiator tubes at the filler neck with the cap off after start up and with the engine definitely COLD as you describe, then you are correct in your diagnosis. The thermostat is either faulty or nonexistent. A thermostat installed upside down usually results in overheating because the heat sensing element in the thermostat would then be sensing the cooler coolant at the upper radiator hose instead of the hotter coolant at the intake manifold passages. This would cause it to remain closed longer. I would purchase a new Premium quality thermostat rated at 190 degrees and replace your present seized or defective one. Let us know how it works out for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:56 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill

I have a '73 Continental with a 460. The problem is that it takes around 20 minutes to warm up the engine. When I go and take the highway the coolant temperature starts dropping into the cold zone and stays there until I stop for a couple of minutes and it starts warming up again. I've replaced the thermostat, but I can't think of anything else that could cause this problem. I need some help.

Thanks,

Steve

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Hi Steve -

Welcome to the Lincoln Land Blog. The function of the thermostat is to regulate the temperature of the engine as you already know. I like to see these gauges read somewhat above 1/4 and definitely under 3/4 at full operating engine temperature. It is necessary that the thermostat be of a good quality and should have a rating of 190 degrees. If your thermostat meets the above specifications and the engine does not seem to heat up properly according to your dash indicator, then the gauge circuit itself needs to be properly tested for accuracy as per the Shop Manual. If you require further information on the above or a shop manual please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 1:30 PM | Permalink
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Hi!

I'd appreciate any ideas re: A/C cooling O.K. Heating on at any position and we get steam in the car. In the VENT position if the control is in the cool area we get cool air coming in. If it's in the warm or hot position we get hot air.

Have a diagram for the vacuum hook up??

Thanks,

Gary

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Hello Gary -

Steam in the vehicle from the AC / Heater unit is almost always an indication of a leaking Heater Core or its immediate tubing. The leaking coolant is evaporated as the air passes through the core and then distributed into the vehicle from the AC vents, the floor ducts or the defrost ducts as a vapor. Only a small tiny leak can produce this effect and you may not even notice a drop in the vehicles coolant level. A new heater core is the answer for this problem. The vacuum diagram and all of the procedures are shown in the necessary Shop Manual. We are posting the AC / Heat vacuum schematic for your convenience. If you need any further assistance such as parts or manuals etc., please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:50 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have a 1977 Lincoln Continental Town Coupe. It has a couple of issues, some I have addressed, some successful and other not so. Installed new, not refurbished carburetor, new master cylinder, battery and A/C compressor and have the A/C system converted to the new R-12 coolant. My lingering issues are brake light came on on the dash, break pedal seems to be not as positive as before, car still does not start as it should by setting the choke as instructed in owners manual. I have to pump and pump the gas to get it to start. A/C still does not blow cold; I have a shutter when I apply power to the car. I checked the drive shaft and the two piece drive shift universal joints seem loose is the fix, to just change all four joints? Another question is do I have to take the steering wheel off to get to the light bulbs behind the gauges behind the dashboard?

Thanks,

Ted

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Hi Ted -

Those 77's are real nice running cars and when all of those problems that you are describing are eliminated from your car yours will be too. The brake light warning light remaining on is USUALLY one of the following. 1) Improper bleeding of the hydraulic brake lines, or failure to bleed at all after repair. 2) Loss of hydraulic pressure in the front or rear lines. 3) Internal failure inside the brake master cylinder. We have never needed to remove the steering wheel to change any bulbs behind the dash although some bulb changes may be difficult.

Your other problems can only be diagnosed with more information from you or actually seeing and hearing the component operate. For instance, for your Air Conditioning problem the R12 refrigerant that you mention IS in fact the original refrigerant. There are several substitutes being used by AC shops and I do not know what was installed in your system or the condition of the other components in your AC system. These AC systems are diagnosed with the use of AC gauges hooked up to the high side and low side lines and the pressures are checked and evaluated along with the outlet temperature at the vents inside the car. The problem could be a control problem or an actual refrigeration problem. Any one or more of a dozen or so faulty conditions are possible here that can cause poor AC performance. Your other symptoms also require knowledgeable on scene diagnosis by competent technicians. If we can receive detailed information from you regarding these problems, we may be able to assist you further.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:13 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 62 continental that runs fine when it is cold, but after it warms up, and I drive it a few miles, it begins to run very rough, almost like some cylinders are not firing.. I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, but that did not help. It is even more pronounced when I brake, the whole car shakes violently. This circumstance sometimes fades away after awhile and then comes back, but the car always runs fine initially. Any ideas?

Thank you,

John
San Jose, CA

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Greetings John -

Your statement "It is even more pronounced when I brake, the whole car shakes violently" is a big clue here. When you brake you are actuating the Power Brake Booster and it is applying the brakes with the use of engine vacuum. The booster is supplied vacuum from the intake manifold via a large vacuum hose. If the Booster is leaking internally during such times as a brake application, a large amount of vacuum will be depleted from the manifold. When this occurs the proper air/fuel mixture will be greatly upset to the engine so as to cause your violent shaking. Your power brake unit needs to be inspected as a first step John as soon as possible according to your above statement and my suspicions.

I also would also advise checking the condition of the ignition points and condenser along with the vacuum advance. This checking should include the dwell meter test of the points and the engine timing as well. We hope that the above helps you John. If you have any further information on your problem or require any parts for your repair please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 3:58 PM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

My name is Mike, and I live in Houston,Texas. I had a question regarding my '58 Continental.

When I got the car, all the power windows worked and would roll up and down from the switches. The rear breezeway window was frozen to the tracks. I took the backseat out and got the window unstuck. I was using a 12 Volt car battery and jumper wires directly to the window motor to roll the window up and down. Immediately after I put everything back together, I tried rolling the other windows down from the switch and nothing works anymore. I am thinking I fried a fuse or breaker of some sort, but have been unable to locate a fuse box in this car. Any idea where it may be or what may have caused this to happen? Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You -

Mike

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Hello Mike -

The 58-60 Lincolns and Marks are great cars, and excellent cars to have and enjoy today. Because they were very innovative and constantly evolving during their production it is necessary for you to have the maintenance manual to diagnose and repair many items. A manual will pay for itself many times over. The circuit breakers and fuses can be fatigued at this time and certain switches can be internally corroded etc. We are going to send you the wiring diagram for the power window circuits for you to use. We need to know first however if yours is a 4 door or a 2 door as the wiring is slightly different. Please let us know so that we can send this info. to you as soon as possible. If you wish to order a manual instead please contact us and we can arrange for one to be delivered to your address.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:25 PM | Permalink
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Bill -

Just purchased a '79 Mark V from one of your customers. Car was shipped and received the other day. However, I noticed that the back-up lights are not operating. Please advise how to gain access to change those bulbs. (I purchased bulbs, just need info to gain access.)

Thanks -

Jerry

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Greetings Jerry -

Both Back Up Light bulbs being burnt out can be a possibility and I will ask George to publish a picture and information on their replacement (as I am currently on route to Florida). My first test however would be to check for available power to the bulbs at the rear of the car with the possibility of a faulty Back Up Light switch or a maladjusted switch in mind. This also is a possibility and this sw. is located under the dash on the steering column. Good Luck on the repair but if replacing the bulbs does not correct your problem Jerry a proper test of the Back Up Light circuit may be in your future.

Sincerely,

Bill

*************
Jerry -

Here's the illustration from the Shop Manual, it doesn't show it that well - but you will find flaps on the back side of the bumper. Lift them up to access the sockets which will twist out......

George @ Lincoln Land, Inc.

Posted by Bill at 2:18 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I just stumbled across your site while searching for information on a problem I am having.

I purchased this vehicle about 2 years ago mainly as a car to store and drive occasionally. The last three times I have had it out I had a problem, after it runs for 15-30 minutes it just shuts off. I can crank it and nothing happens. My mechanic told me there was a problem with the California emissions on the car so he disconnected it and it was supposed to be fixed. Well I had it out today and about 30 min into my drive it stalled out again, same problem.

After my mechanic came and looked at it he said there was a problem with some small part located right next to the ignition box on the driver's side fender well under the hood. He couldn't find out what the part even was but swore it had to do with the California emissions but that he couldn't find any part number for it or anything. His suggestion is to change out the ignition box for a new Mallory distributor the cost of which is about $330, I was hoping with your experience on these cars you might have a different solution.

Thanks,

Sean

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Hello Sean,

The condition that you describe is not uncommon with the electronic ignition systems of that era and the yes any of these electronic parts could be your problem. Although the system is excellent, the vehicle is over 30 years old and is probably overdue for some service. Under the hood there is indeed a unit known as the Ignition Module. It operates in harmony with other electronic items that are located inside of the distributor cap. Replacing parts without testing may result in success or could be costly if you end up with the same problem if the parts that are replaced are NOT defective. Another difficulty is that many of these quality original parts are now obsolete from Ford. If you would like to receive a complete set of manuals for your Mark V (recommended), contact us at any time. I hope the above helps you to a fast repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:20 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have recently purchased a 2000 Lincoln Town Car in good condition.

Recently the radio / compass quit working (radio stopped playing - display goes out for clock and compass). Upon a check of the 5A fuse for the radio, I removed the fuse from the fuse box and checked the fuse - not blown - I re-inserted the fuse and the radio started working.

Later the radio / compass stopped working again - the display for the clock / compass goes away - if I push the fuse box under the dash, the radio / compass will start working - display comes back up again. Also the radio does not lose power because the preset radio stations remain as well as the clock. Any ideas what could be causing this issue?

Thanks for your blog and advice,

Steve

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Hi Steve -

From your statement "If I push the fuse box under the dash the radio/compass will start working" is the key to your problem and the repair in my opinion. If the fuse contacts and the fuse itself are ok the radio fuse wiring in and around the fuse box that "moves" when you push it needs to be very carefully examined. This could be a poorly connected wire or a faulty wire behind the fuse panel that originated at the factory in 2000 and is only now appearing years later. It would not hurt to replace the fuse also in case the fuse is faulty internally. When you have an intermittent connection such as this, it is the same as turning the radio off. The memory in the radio is retained because there is a separate 12v supply at all times to the radio for the station memory and the clock. Again Steve, that point that you push at the fuse box tells me that a bad contact is lurking somewhere at that location. I hope the above helps you find it quickly. I'm intrigued with this problem so please keep us posted on this one.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:10 AM | Permalink
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Bill,

I APPRECIATE whole-heartedly the information you have sent me regarding My Interior Light Issue's..........

Does Lincoln Land have this "Illuminated Entry Delay Module" on hand for sale?

THANK YOU !

I am Humbled by your Reply.

Dale
Las Vegas

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Hi Dale -

Thank you very much Dale for the kind reply. We would definitely have a good used module available for you in the event that this in fact proves to be your problem.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:03 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I recently bought a 1971 Lincoln Mark 3. I bought it in great condition. I'm the furthest thing from a mechanic so I took it to a local classic car shop to have it looked over for issues. They said the car was in excellent condition but recommended I do the following:

A. IDLE AND CARB TUNE AND ADJUST-----------------$225.00
B. REAR WHEEL SEALS LEAKING-------------------------$350.00
C. TRANSMISSION LEAKS 1. OUTPUT SEAL
2. SHIFT SHAFT SEAL----------$275.00
D. OIL PAN GASKET LEAKING-----------------------------$495.00
E. POWER STEERING PUMP LEAKING-------------------$295.00
F. WINDOWS INOP 1.RIGHT FRONT----------------------$185.00
2. RIGHT REAR---------------------------$185.00
3. LEFT REAR-----------------------------$185.00
G. MISC PARTS AND SUPPLIES-----------------------------$100.00

Once the repairs were done, everything began going wrong with the car. It now runs like crap and leaks worse than it did before. Now, a 'SURE-TRAC' light is on and they claim its just a electrical issue, but the brakes feel spongy. Once over 60 mph the car begins to overheat. Do you have any advice on how to fix the overheating and sure-trac light?

Thanks,

Raheem

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Greetings Raheem -

Those Mark IIIs sure are a great looking car and a good choice as a collector car. Both of your problems are standard procedure repair items that are common to all cars. Although you don't elaborate too much on the symptoms I can offer the following.

The illuminated Sure Trac light is generally an indication of an upset in the front to rear brake pressure due to loss of hydraulic brake fluid in the front or rear brakes. It can also be caused by a failed master cylinder that is by-passing internally. Again, the light is reporting a problem to you. After the repair is made the system needs to be bled to center the valve that turns the light on. If the vehicle was purchased with this brake warning light already on, it is possible that a previous repair was made and the system was not bled. The spongy brake pedal feel tells me however that a problem still exists. In any case a good brake mechanic will be aware of the correct procedures.

I do not know the condition of your cooling system or all of the conditions in which your car overheats therefore I will list the common problems as follows:

low on coolant
radiator plugged
thermostat seized in the closed position
cooling shroud missing
incorrect fan blade
faulty fan clutch
incorrect temperature gauge reading
engine coolant passages plugged
rad cap failed

I hope the above will give you some insight into what needs to be inspected to correct your problems. I also understand your situation when you state that "you are the furthest thing from a mechanic". In your case a set of proper 1971 Shop Manuals would be a real plus in the form as a time and labor saver for anyone who is working on your car. Whenever you drop your car off at a shop, the manuals can be made available for the mechanic to use. If you do require any parts or Manuals please contact us at any time and Good Luck.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:44 PM | Permalink
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Hi Dale -

After re-thinking your courtesy light problem, I have thought of another item for you to consider. This item is a small module located above the glove box called the "Illuminated Entry Delay Module". It would be well worth the time and effort to locate and unplug this item to find out if your courtesy lights then turn off. This module may have failed internally to a continuous "on" position. We are posting the diagram along with the wiring colors to assist you in locating this item. This module should be located on a panel above the glove box.

Good Luck,

Bill -

Posted by Bill at 12:25 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

Really enjoy the blog!

In regards to the 79 Town Coupe with the interior lights staying on.

I had a 1979 Mark V Cartier that I loved, but one day after I locked the car and started to go in the house, I noticed my interior lights would not turn off! I checked the headlight switch out, thinking I may have accidentally turned the knob, but had not. I even ended up taking it to our local Lincoln Mercury dealer several times. They ran tests, and went through the entire electrical system and the problem persisted. The lights had to be disconnected and the cause of the problem was never found, even after a trip to another garage that specialized in electrical problems!

I was telling a fellow car enthusiast about my frustrating situation and he offered to buy the car, as he did not care that the interior lights no longer functioned. I sold it, but miss it! Fortunately, have not had that problem with my 80s Town Cars. Good luck to Dale in finding the problem and fixing his Town Coupe. If the problem is found, please post it on your blog-still curious. Take care and hello to Sandy, John and Al.

Michael

California

Posted by Bill at 12:24 PM | Permalink
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Bill,

At 68 I own a '79 Town Coupe, which I Enjoy... But.... According to the Manual I screwed up Big Time.

I don't recall having a Battery Issue, but when I went to Fill'er up with gas it wouldn't start, Hmmmmm.

As I am on Oxygen and don't have a Cell phone, I started into the Store to call AAA as I figured the battery just needed to be Jumped.

An Off Road P/U came to my aid and tried jumping Battery to Battery.......... According to Manual..... a No No. Positive to positive Negative (on jumping battery) to solid ground (motor, etc.) of vehicle being jumped..........

As a result, issue's have arisen: Over head (Interior) Light Stay's On : Floor Kick panel light's stay on ; 4-Way's don't work But Turn Signal's are Ok...... All the Fuse's have been checked....... all ok.......

My Question......... Now What ????????

I Thank You for any assistance through suggestion's that You may have.

Dale
Las Vegas

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Hello Dale -

Sorry to hear that you are having electrical problems. When jump starting a vehicle, it is preferred to attach the negative cable to a definite solid ground on the vehicle in distress. This procedure is much more important of course on cars that have a computer and other sophisticated devices. In my opinion the battery to battery method should not have caused the problems on your Lincoln as you describe.

The interior lights staying on problem sounds as if the headlamp switch control knob has been rotated counter clockwise so as to engage the courtesy lights manually. I would check this first.

The four way flasher problem could very well be a faulty 4 way flasher module itself or a faulty 4 way switch at the turn signal control. Both of these are described in the Shop Manual and are not difficult to check out.

Again Dale I have never heard of these types of problems occurring because of the way that your car was "jump started". I hope that the above suggestions will help you to correct your present Lincoln problems.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:21 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I'm having issues with my 1979 Lincoln Continental Town Car. 1st the door locks do not work .. It's weird, only one works and it's not very good.. fuses are all good. I don't understand what's wrong with those.

Also my fuel gauge doesn't work. I have got power to the gas tank and its a pulsing power .. on off, on off.. so I'm assuming it's the sending unit in the tank. Do you think I could just pull it out and fix it? Or is this not the problem.

Please Help me Bill!

Joe K.

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Hello Joe -

Power door locks are a great convenience.......until they stop. Your PDL problem is very common on all cars as the system ages. If you do have one that works somewhat it tells me that the system is powered up and the failure is probably the door lock motors themselves. Fortunately we have these motor assemblies available new and with a full one year warranty. They come with instructions to adapt them to several years of Lincolns and of course the use of our tech. hotline for further installation advice if necessary. The best ultimate repair is to replace all of these motors and to clean and lubricate the door locks themselves during the replacement. You can and should check for the appropriate power to each of the motors inside your doors before going this route but experience tells me that they have probably failed. We have had little luck in repairing any that have failed. Therefore I think that you should verify the problem in one of the doors first and then be prepared to replace them all. Cleaning and Lubrication of the door locks will also reward you with quick smoother operation with the new motors.

If you have pulsing power at the fuel gauge, connect a 12 v test light to the wire at this pulsed power at the tank with the key in the on position. You should see the gauge on the dash rise. If it does rise and will not move when plugged in with adequate fuel in the tank and the Ground wire at the plug is attached properly to the car body, your tank sending unit has failed or its float has punctured and has sunk ( very common ). This sending unit itself can be tested as per the manual if you are so inclined. We can offer new units or a rebuilding service for your convenience if required. You may however be lucky and need only the inexpensive Float as described above.

I hope that all of the above will get you started on a quick path to the cause of your problems Joe and if you have any further questions or wish to order any parts, please do not hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 1:17 PM | Permalink
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Dear Uncle Bill,

Kim and I recently flew from Washington DC to Milwaukee to purchase a
'72 Mark IV, 24,000 original miles, all white with tobacco accents,
spectacular condition.

We drove it home, or almost home to Mt. Lake Park, MD. The car ran
flawlessly until 60 miles or so the other side of Wheeling, WV (130
miles from home). I had run the car until the tank was almost empty
(recall the car had been running perfectly the first 700 or 800 miles)
and stopped and filled up with gas (high test, Amoco). After about 10
miles the car developed a "chugging and surging" feel. I immediately
thought, "clogged fuel filter".... had another one in the glove
compartment, found a shady spot (I had the necessary tools with me....
old cars and all) and changed the fuel filter... while under the hood, I
noticed that the vacuum advance was unhooked, which explained the
higher than normal idle, and a cracked vacuum cap on a manifold port.
Feeling delighted I had made such discoveries and was able to correct
them; we set off, again, for home. The car ran okay for a few miles,
and then it started chugging and surging again. I thought it must be the
fuel filter again and that I had stirred up so much junk in the tank.

So it went... I stopped 3 times for fuel filters, and each time the car
seemed to run fine for a short period and I was totally convinced it
was all fuel delivery issues. By the time we made it to Wheeling, we
had become familiar with several small towns' NAPA auto parts stores.

In Wheeling, I had decided to put an in line filter on the gas feed
line, and THEN hook it up to the regular fuel filter. Now the car would
hardly run and I began the search, on foot, to find someone to flatbed
it to Mt. Lake Park. It was a Thursday afternoon, 102 degrees and I
could only find someone who would do it for about $500. This, of
course, bothered me and I walked back to the car where Kim had been
reading and being the finest sport about the whole thing.... she told
me she had started the car, and it had been idling fine for about 10
minutes.... I said; "let's go!" and on the interstate we went (we enjoy
and had been traveling secondary roads the entire trip with the
exception of Milwaukee to Chicago).

We traveled about 5 miles, and then the car began coughing, backfiring and
soon there-after, quit all together. The highway patrol came (WV
highway patrol are the best!) and recommended a towing company. They
came, towed us to a Lincoln-Mercury dealer that happened to be at the
next exit and we thought; "our troubles are over"..... Nope, they had a
mechanic out with heat stroke, another out sick, and a stack of work
orders and could possibly look at our car middle of next week.

The towing company, a delightful, family owned (back to the 1930's)
came to the rescue. The driver, who was a grandson of the founder,
said he couldn't tow us all the way to Mt. Lake Park with the truck the
car was currently hooked to. So back to their shop, put the car on a
Flatbed and off we went. Kim on the back seat, reading (it was a brand
new International that was very nice), me up front with the driver, and
being glad we were finally going to be home.

We made it to Shaffer Ford in Oakland, MD in about 3 hours and life was
good again ($450. poorer, but good). Shaffer Ford looked and looked
(based on my fuel delivery diagnosis) then went on their own and
discovered the points were burned, the coil shot and the vacuum advance
totally non-functional. And, there was absolutely no problem with the
fuel delivery.

Finally to my question: Could my hooking up the vacuum advance (which
was, and is not functioning properly) have caused the points to burn
and ruin the coil? The car ran perfectly (without the vacuum advance
being hooked up at all) before I "fixed" the vacuum leaks. It is my
opinion that the prior owner (now deceased) was aware the vacuum
advance was bad because it was unhooked. The car runs horribly with it
hooked up, so unhooked it is.

Next problem. A vacuum advance is made for every year on record, but
not 1972. Is my only option to replace the entire distributor (the
rebuilt comes with a new advance)??

Also, where can I find out where all the vacuum hoses go? There are
(3) ports on the thermostat housing, and two others on another valve or
sensor to the left (facing the engine) of the thermostat. Can you tell
me? Is there a diagram available?

This car is so nice and original, I would very much like for it to be
the way it was built, and would like to have all that ugly, but
correct, plumbing back in place.

Also, the receipts that came with the car indicate that the blower was
replaced about 2,000 miles and 20 years ago, as was the heater core.
Now, the heater core is leaking (again) and the blower does not work.
Seems strangely coincidental that they are both not working again.
What are your thoughts? How hard is it to change a heater core on a 72
Mark? What's the best way to check the blower?

Bill, thank you so much for being available to ask all these questions!

All the best and hope to see you soon,

Your favorite nephew,

Carter

Whaddaya think?

I sure would enjoy seeing some pics of your cars, the 70 Sedan in
particular.

Thanks Bill!
***************************************************************************************************************

Hi Carter,

That was quite a ride home for you both. It does sound like it will soon be a real nice car for you. It's a good thing though that Kim was such a sport. I hope that the book she was reading was entitled "How I learned To Understand A Car Buff And The Ways To Convert Him Over To Basket Weaving".

A 1972 Mark with 24000 miles is a real nice find but it also has 38 years of aging as you are already aware of. For all we know these 38 years could be 38 years of short drives and low or no real regular maintenance. The problems that you describe appear to stem from not one but several items that may need your immediate attention. I can tell you that the ignition points did not burn from an inoperative or disconnected vacuum advance in fact they may just be the original factory points. This has happened before to very low mileage vehicles so therefore I believe that a complete tune up is in order at this time and that tune up will include an inspection of the interior of the fuel tank and possibly a carburetor overhaul.

The Blower Motor along with the rest of the Automatic Climate Control system is a fine but complicated system. The blower is located under the dash forward of the glove box and you can check there to see if the blower is receiving power. If there is no power there for the blower with the system switched on you then must trace the electrical circuit. I have repaired many of these systems and to this day I always have the correct manuals at my side. To attempt otherwise is not a good idea.

So Carter the above is based on the present possibilities as they appear to me and the fact that you may not know the cars maintenance history. Get a proper set of manuals and if you need further specific vacuum diagrams etc, we can print these off for you. A set of manuals will pay off in dollars and time saved and if you have a mechanic, he or she will love you for having them available for use. I hope that the above will get you started on a smoother running Mark IV.

Sincerely,

Bill -

Posted by Bill at 9:41 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

I started working on the 63 Lincoln a little while ago, and I took the engine into the machine shop and had it machined .030 over and had them assemble the rotating assembly. I got it back put it back in, and the rear main was leaking. I took it back in to the machine shop and he replaced the rope seal with a two part rear main. I put it back in and it's leaking again. What is he doing wrong? What can I do when I put it in the third time to do it right?

Kendall

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Greetings Kendall -

Some projects do turn out to be much more problematic than we expect. Your project on your 63 engine appears to be one of these. You ask the question "what is he doing wrong"?. There really is no way for us to know what the machine shop is doing wrong or not doing wrong without us actually examining the engine on site and knowing more specific history details of the engine.

In all fairness to you Kendall what usually happens in a case such as this is that the machine shop is notified by you that the engine still continues to leak after two attempts to seal the leak at the rear main. The owner or service manager of the shop (I assume the shop is reputable) becomes interested and asks that you bring the car to them so that they can observe the leak first hand and diagnose the problem. At this point they may see that it is indeed the rear main then proceed to disassemble and correct it at their shop or they advise you and show you that the leak is actually originating from another location that they cannot be responsible for. All of the above is good and fair business practice and normally results in success and satisfaction for both parties. I do hope that the above helps to resolve the issues on your 63 Lincoln and if we can help you further in the future please be sure to contact us here at Lincoln Land.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:07 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I just bought a 63' Lincoln Continental. The only problem is that it runs good for about 20 minutes, then it sputters out and will not restart for some time. I took it to a mechanic and I was told the car is going into vapor lock for some unknown reason. I believe most of the car is original.

Can you please help me... I'm not sure what to do and I don't want to keep taking the car to different mechanics. The next thing I know, I'm going to have other problems when dealing with too many different mechanics; some of them will create different problems so they can fix them. I'm looking for a solution for the vapor lock - no other problems.
So with that said....

What is the correct solution to stop the car from going into a vapor lock? What do I need to replace? I've been told that I may need a new gas pump, and alternator, but will that fix my problem? The mechanics seem clueless as I am, and I don't want to change what is not broken. So please help me to remedy my problem.

Chris in Michigan

Hello Chris,

I can sure agree with you that visiting too many mechanics can cause further problems. Your description of your present problem is not uncommon and can be caused by other failures besides a fuel problem. It can also be caused by loss of ignition spark. For instance a bad condenser in the distributor can fail in 20 minutes and then operate fine again when cool. I don't know how your mechanic concluded that vapor lock was your problem but if he suspected a fuel problem, a fuel flow and pressure test should be performed at the time of the failure in order to be sure.

As you have specifically asked, I will give you some ideas on areas to check on your 63. Firstly your pictures show that the Heat Shield for the fuel pump is missing. It is an item that in theory helps to prevent vapor lock. The fuel lines on these cars includes a return vapor line to the fuel tank, therefore all of the lines to and from the gas tank need to be in order and routed as designed. The mechanical part of the fuel pump operation also includes a pushrod that is known to wear and cause a weak flow of fuel. As well, all of the other usual fuel related items such as fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel pickup strainer, lines and fuel filter need to be in order. I hope that the above helps to lead you to a fast diagnosis to your problem. We usually have the correct parts on hand here at Lincoln Land should you require any specific items.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:14 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

The other day I barely made it into the driveway after a 25 mile trip with
my 1978 Continental Town Car 400 engine with 40k miles.

A new gas filter proved not to help. Since it had the original plugs, I replaced them and put on the second set of wires, and replaced the cap and rotor. No change. I have checked all vacuum lines and they prove OK. Today, I blew back the gas line
even though the gas was leaking out at the fuel pump when disconnected. I put
pressure on the line from the gas filter to the fuel pump and it was clear.

The fuel pump was replaced about 5k miles ago. The car was not easy to start so I turned up the idle. It runs smooth pretty much at high idle after about 5 minutes, but when putting it in gear, it goes down to a shake if warmed but will stall on choke.

Also I checked the gas cap by removing it and still no change. I have used carb cleaner on all vacuum lines going in and into the carburetor and the carb shows they are clear by increasing the idle. I have also used carb spray directly into the carb with no change. Am I missing something stupid or do I need the carb rebuild?

Thanks.

Ed

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Greetings Ed -

Sounds like you were lucky to make it back home. A car that had the original plugs and wires still in use after 32 years could also have the untouched original and never serviced carburetor on the engine. It could very well be and likely is that the carburetor is in need of a good cleaning after this amount of time and 40,000 miles even though it may not actually be your problem as described.

Since you have checked part of the fuel delivery system I think that you do need to continue and do a fuel pressure and volume test at the carburetor inlet. This will show that the pump is able to draw fuel from the tank through the screen in the tank through the fuel lines and then pump it to the carburetor. If this test proves ok and the fuel delivery is in good order I would move to the carburetor at this point. You can check to see if the choke is operating properly first. The choke must be closed upon starting a cold engine and then it must open slightly when started and then continue to open fully as the engine warms up. The carburetor inside could be gummed up or the floats and needle valves could be faulty and allowing the engine to flood with fuel (too rich a mixture). Of course other problems can develop inside a dirty carburetor as well. If you agree that the carburetor has never been cleaned, I think that it is overdue for this service.

Another problem that could cause this stalling on your 78 Lincoln is a failing ignition system. Your car has an excellent fully electronic ignition system. Electronic parts can and do fail and the problem may first appear as a stumbling or stalling condition. Some failures may cause the engine to shut off and not start until repaired. Your particular problem could of course possibly be the first scenario.

I would first approach the situation with a complete fuel system check as described above including a carburetor service. After that and if the problem persists I would then check the ignition system. A seasoned tune up mechanic may be able to pick out a problem quickly as he will actually see and hear the engine running. We hope that the above leads to a speedy repair for you and if there are any parts or advice that we can provide, please do not hesitate to contact us at Lincoln Land.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:28 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill!

I have a '73 Continental 4 door Sedan. The two power windows on the rear don't work. If I turn the switch I can hear the motors working but the windows are not moving. I'm able to push the window glasses down in the door and pull them up by hand. Are my window motor gears worn out or it can be something else? I looked up the plastic gears on eBay, but I wasn't sure which one was for me, 9 or 7 teeth.

I'm also having a problem with the driver side mini-vent window. It doesn't go all the way up, stops about an inch and a half before it suppose to. I adjusted on the 'up stop' and on the 'vent equalizer', but I don't see any more possibility for adjustment in the service manual. Is there more?

I'm also having problem with my fuel gauge. Most of the time it does not work, but if it does it's not accurate. When I gas up it shows that the tank is full, but the needle gets down to the 'E' when the tank is still half full of gas. I appreciate if you could help me, thank you.

Steve

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Hello Steve,

Welcome to our Blog. If you can raise and lower your windows by hand it sure does sound like the gears have collapsed inside the motor assemblies. We have these parts on hand right here at Lincoln Land as this is a common failure. At the same time as the gears are replaced the moving window parts inside the doors should be cleaned and re-greased. Another problem that I should mention at this time is that many Lincolns of this era suffer from slow operating windows. We have found that this is due to the design of the power window electrical system that allows reduced power to reach the motors. We have in many cases installed relays for the motors on some customer's vehicles so that the windows operate on increased electrical power. The result is a vast improvement in the power window operation. However, this is not a project for the timid, and may be something for you to consider in the future. Your vent window problem sounds like lack of lubrication or possibly a weak motor. It should be re-inspected with this in mind.

The fuel gauge concern in my opinion could be caused by the float that is located on the sending unit in the fuel tank. It is not uncommon for these to leak and sink. The result is a false gauge reading. If that is the case we have them in stock and they are inexpensive. Another common possibility is that the sending unit itself is faulty and requires replacement or overhaul.

When you get further into these above concerns, please contact us for further advice, etc.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:34 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill -

I have a question about my 91 Town Car. When I make a right turn into a driveway apron I hear a "clink" sound on the right rear side just as the right rear wheel reaches the top of the apron. It seems that I have to be going up hill for the sound to occur. I can make a right turn on a generally level area I have no sound.

My mechanic has already had the car up on the hoist but found nothing that would indicate a problem. Is it possible that it might be something in the differential or rear axle housing? The car is reaching 153,000 miles. Thanks for your time and for being there.

Gregg

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Greetings Gregg -

Some of these types of sounds are annoying and can be a cause for concern because they may be possibly announcing an expensive repair in your future. These noises are also hard to describe in a letter to someone else such as myself because one person's clink could be another person's creak etc.

Your 91 has enough time and miles on it now to have several suspension and steering related noises that may require attention at this time. Thinking your problem over I rule out the rear axles and differential (at this time) because that assembly does not know if your right turn includes an incline as you describe but all of the vehicles rubber bushings, suspension and links etc., however do feel this effect.

Before pursuing the rear axle and differential idea I would want the car inspected on a front end machine with the wheels on the ramps holding the car up as it would be while driving. A good front end and suspension technician should road test the car with you beforehand to see if he agrees with me that your noise could be a failed rubber suspension bushing of some sort. He then will inspect all of these bushings front and rear as well as items such as sway bar links, ball joints, spring mounts, body mounts and shock absorber mounts etc. On the other hand a road test by a concerned technician may lead him to another area of concern that only an on site road test and inspection can reveal such as rear brake problems or loose exhaust pipes etc.

As you can see, the above procedure is leading you to a less expensive first approach rather the delving immediately into an expensive rear axle assembly procedure. I hope that the above ideas help you and I hope that it turns out to be something simple such as a loose tailpipe.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 2:07 PM | Permalink
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Bill,

I have a 1989 Lincoln Town Car Signature Series with 215,000 miles. The problem is that you get heat through the dash vents when you accelerate the engine even with everything turned off and temperature set on 60. If you are sitting still idling or going down hill with the air conditioning on everything runs fine until you begin to accelerate the engine. I have had my car to the local Ford Lincoln Mercury dealer twice and they were unable to locate the problem. I have replaced the main vacuum harness coming from the exterior firewall through the passenger cabin that goes to all the vacuum pumps and main auto climate controls which is all one piece. I have also replaced the ambient air temperature sensor and main vacuum control on the auto climate system (where you select which mode you want such as temperature and floor vent, etc.) I also have tried another blend servo pump (behind the glove box) and the problem still exists. You can hear a door or something move when you accelerate the engine and hear it move again when you let off the gas. I think I also tried the vacuum check valve on the exterior firewall also. Are there any electrical/vacuum controls under the hood that would malfunction and cause this? Please Help!!!!!!

Thanks Bill....

Justin in Virginia

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Hello Justin -

Loss of cool AC on acceleration and defaulting to heat is a common problem in Town Cars of that era. It is always caused by one or more vacuum leaks. Vacuum leaks in the AC system can develop any where that the vacuum is routed. According to your report you have replaced many of the more likely problem parts but I don't know if you replaced them with new parts, good known parts or only unproven used parts. Another point is that replacing parts without proving that they are actually defective is never the best way to go. This method is usually very expensive, more time consuming and frustrating.

Assuming though that all of the items that you have already replaced are indeed in good working order there are other areas where leaks can be found in that system. They are the Vacuum Reserve Tank, Cold Engine Lock Out Switch (or CELO) and its vacuum lines (located in one of the heater hoses) any vacuum line and any of the under dash vacuum mode motors, etc. As mentioned above, any suspected items should be properly tested for leaks before condemning. If no leaks are found anywhere then you or your mechanic must backtrack and revisit problem areas. Some leaks can be elusive and therefore time consuming to locate but it can be done. Whenever I work on these exact problems I always have the vacuum diagram within reach, therefore I would advise that you or your mechanic also have one available.

If we can help with any further information, manuals, diagrams or parts please let us know. Please advise us Justin when you locate the problem so that we can post your success on the blog. Good Hunting!

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:26 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I hope all is well for you in Lincoln Land.

This might seem like a strange problem to you but here goes. I have some type of a coolant leak. You can leave the car running over a dry surface and no leaks appear. I don't see where there is any fluid coming off the radiator or hoses. It's a fairly fast leak and I have to add coolant about every three days if I'm driving it once a day.

There are no head gasket issues and no smoke from the exhaust, except on start up temporarily and it doesn't smell like coolant and my oil is dark so I know the head gasket is fine, plus if it was leaking that much It would be smoking non stop.

So my big question is where do you think the leak might be coming from and why is there no leak when the engine is running and I'm in park on my driveway???

Sincerely,

Confused Lincoln Lover Justin

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Greetings Justin -

If you are sure that the internal engine seals and gaskets are ok, the only other way to loose coolant is from an external leak that can be found, or the system is being overfilled when the engine is cold and the excess is disappearing out the overflow system as designed. If you are sure that you are in fact not overfilling, then the best method to find an external leak is to have the cooling system pressurized by using the appropriate Cooling System Pressure Pump that most automotive service shops have. This device can be used on a cold engine and a hot engine (some leaks only appear at certain engine temps). The gauge on this device can be observed for a pressure drop at the same time as the leak will appear to the observant technician. The leak should appear in the usual locations such as radiator, radiator cap, coolant hoses, heater core, water valve, water pump, freeze plugs, etc., etc. If the pressure on the gauge does in fact drop thus indicating a leak and no leak can be seen, then you may indeed have an internal engine leak but I wouldn't lean towards that conclusion until I have fully exhausted all of the other possibilities. Be positive that you are not overfilling the cooling system (there are cold fill markings on the radiator or overflow tank), and that your radiator cap is not defective. The Pressure Pump can also be configured to test the radiator cap.

Some leaks require some time and concentrated automotive detective work, and the location of the leak may surprise you. Please let us know what problem you find so that we may post the information here for others to see.

Good Luck -

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:09 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

Well, we did it. We replaced 4 lifters and valve seals on the third and fourth cylinder on the driver's side. We tuned it to boot, so it seems to be fine - no ticking. Thanks for your help on this.

I want to ask you a question too about getting a heater/ac blower motor for the 70 Mark III. I have put in a question to Lincoln Land parts but have not heard back yet. Is it possible to rebuild these motors and if so does Lincoln Land do that? I've got all the parts except the blower. I have the original and while I could hear it turn before I took the unit apart, I'm not sure what kind of shape it is in other that being very rusty. I've cleaned it up quite a bit, but I would like to replace or rebuild it before I put everything back together.

Thanks for being there.

Gregg

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Hi Gregg -

We're glad that you got the 91 looked after and I bet that you are glad that you went ahead with that repair.

As for the Mark III blower motor, we don't rebuild them here at Lincoln Land at this time because we are still able (in most cases) to supply new units. However, if you have been able to actually take your unit apart successfully as you indicate, why not check with a local small Electric Motor and Alternator/Generator Repair shop in your area. They may be able to supply you with new motor brushes and perhaps bushings also if you need them. Don't forget to oil the bushings. Failing that, I am sure that we can arrange a new motor for you if necessary.

I'm not sure who took your original inquiry at Lincoln Land but you should be getting a similar answer back from that inquiry as well.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:54 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

My 2000 Lincoln LS just cut off on me one day. I cranked it up and turned out of the parking lot and my car just shut down. It now sound like my car is trying to crank up, but wont crank up all the way. I took it to three different shops and got three different answers. One man said I needed a new wiring harness. Another one said that my harness was good, but my computer system is messed up. The last one said my computer system is just fine but my timing chain was gone with two bad valves. Can you please tell my anything about what you think may be wrong with my car.

Thanks,

Shawnte

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Hello Shawnte,

Ah Yes, Car ownership can be frustrating. The problem that you describe also shows up in the many Lincoln Town Cars that we service here at Lincoln Land and in many cases it turns out to be a failing Crankshaft Position Sensor or CPS. Unfortunately though we do not see many Lincoln LS vehicles here in our shop and therefore I am not going to do you wrong by making a specific guess. I believe that in your case you should visit the largest Lincoln dealer in your immediate area and speak to the Service Manager or the Shop Foreman only. State your problem (show him this e-mail) and ask him if he has a Technician with LS experience. A good technician with the proper experience will be able to locate your problem and repair it in short order and will save you much time and money in the long run. Leave your LS for repair only at a Ford or Lincoln dealer or a trusted shop that actually has LS experience. I hope the above advice will lead you to a quick repair. Please let us know how it all turns out.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:05 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I bought 1979 Lincoln Continental 4 Door Sedan about two weeks ago. The car drove fine until yesterday, when it totally died on me. It seems like there is no electricity in the car at all, I mean the dash board doesn't light up, no interior lights - even lighter is out.

The battery is fine; the solenoid off the battery lets the electricity through (checked with voltmeter). By my mechanics suggestion, I changed the ignition switch, with no results. I also am not able to locate a wiring diagram for this car.

Seeing how you are helping people out with all these issues I was wandering if you could give me a suggestion on what to try next.

Thank You

Taras

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Hi Taras,

Welcome to the Lincoln hobby, and yes we will be pleased to help you.

If you are sure that your battery is fine as you say, you must start at the battery and follow the electrical path to wherever it travels from the battery. Do not try to guess and replace parts without testing first and proving them faulty, this only adds to your frustration and expense.

I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me at this time for your car but the power path should lead you to the Solenoid from the Battery, and then to a pair of Fusible Links, and then to the Circuit Breakers, Fuses and the Ignition Switch, etc.

Whenever you and your mechanic are ready, call us at Lincoln Land and we can arrange to send to your address any Wiring Diagrams or Manuals that you wish. Problems such as this should not take too long to diagnose, but the proper wiring diagram in this case is definitely is a must for you.

Good luck on the repair -

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:20 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I recently bought a '65 Continental Convertible in fair condition. I am new to owning older cars like this and I am afraid my wife won't go near this thing because of the smell from the exhaust.

Mechanics report that the current exhaust system is working fine, but I can tell it is getting towards replacement soon anyway.

What is the best route to go to reducing fumes and emissions from these cars?

Thanks,

Brent

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Hi Brent -

Congratulations on your purchase and welcome to the Lincoln side of the old car hobby. Because neither of us knows the condition of your engine I can offer several hopefully logical suggestions.

Your question is regarding fumes and emissions so therefore a competent technician should be allowed to completely evaluate your engines condition. This should include a complete tune up in all respects along with a report of the engine's general condition regarding compression and oil pressure etc., as well as whether the valve stem seals may possibly need replacing (blue exhaust smoke).

The positive crankcase ventilation system (PCV) should also be inspected and serviced as necessary as per the 1965 Lincoln Shop Manual, and of course all oil and coolant leaks should be attended to as well as they are a common source of smoke, and or fumes, etc.

I also cannot stress strongly enough that the Shop Manual is a must for you and can pay for itself many times over in the long run. All of the above should be a good place for you to start and may lead to some pleasant cruising for you and your wife. If you do decide on the Manual or need any necessary parts for your Lincoln we are always at the ready to quickly look after your requirements.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:04 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

I have a question about my 1991 Town Car. I have just within the last month begun to hear a tap on the left bank at the rear. I am assuming that I have a lifter problem. The car has 152,000 miles with regular oil changes every 3,000 miles, and I have put in an additive for the lifters over the last several changes.

I'm wondering what my next step should be - can you help there. I don't want to damage the engine by over looking or postponing work that should be done soon. The engine is a 4.6. By the way, I have picked up for the Mark III a new heater core, a used evaporator, resistor for the blower and an expansion valve for the evaporator from Lincoln Land. I will start to put this back together this Saturday. Thanks for all your help and resources.

Gregg

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Greetings Gregg -

Good to hear that you have the Mark III repairs underway. As for the 91, these engines have proven to be a very good engine but of course they too can develop problems. I have discussed your engine with several people here at Lincoln Land and we all agree that you should visit a trusted engine shop in your area for an experienced opinion based on the actual sound that you are hearing. Some sounds turn out to be easy to repair and others may be indicative of a costly future problem. Abnormal noises are hard to describe to others and therefore I believe that an honest mechanic with an experienced ear at your engine will give you proper guidance. Let us know how this works out for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:21 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

Thanks for answering my last questions about the turn signal lever and the rim blow horn! I am busy with these problems as we speak. Now I have a new one for you, and that's about my distributor.

I have installed a new intake manifold and carburetor (Edelbrock) in my 1971 Mark III. But now I do not know if the distributor vacuum port is timed (no vacuum at idle) or full vacuum (vacuum present at idle). I hope you can help me with this one, so I can connect the vacuum hose to the designated port at the carburetor.

Ray

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Hi Ray -

That era of Ford built engines is set up to provide no vacuum to the distributor at idle. They did however provide an override that would automatically apply full manifold vacuum to the dist. in the event of an overheated engine coolant condition. This feature consisted of a sensor mounted into the thermostat housing with an additional vacuum line to the intake manifold. When the engine is overheated the engine timing will advance to increase the engine idle and subsequently the cooling fan and water pump speeds during the overheating in order to assist with the engine cooling. Many of these are now by-passed or wrongly installed and the system is generally not considered crucial as a cooling feature but is nice to have in order to maintain authentic engine controls. The theory of operation and its plumbing can be seen in the Shop manual. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:48 AM | Permalink
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We thought we'd share a resent inquiry from one of our regular customers, as this can be a common problem.... Bill.

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Chris -

I noticed on the 70 white Mark III that the instrument panel lights were not coming on when I turned on the parking lights or the headlights. I replaced the 6 amp fuse and they still did not work. I checked the fuse and found it had gone bad. I put in another new fuse and tried the lights again and still no instrument panel lights. I pulled that fuse out and found that it had gone bad.

Would you or any of your guys have any idea what in the instrument panel light circuit might be blowing out the fuse? Both other cars work fine. Is there any particular area I could have the guys at the shop look at to determine what the problem might be? I've got a copy of the Mark III's electrical system schematic so I can use that with the shop if you have any ideas on what to check.

Otherwise, I hope things are going well at Lincoln Land. Won't be long and we'll be heading to Ocala. I did order an entry level Pace American enclosed car hauler trailer so I hope to have it for the trip down. That should save a lot of cleaning effort!

Take care,

Jerry

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Jerry -

That 6 Amp fuse is for the dash instrument panel lights and any others that may be on the instrument panel dimmers (light blue with red tracer) wire such as radio dial and climate control illumination, etc.

The first suspect in my opinion could be a shorted wire that goes up the steering column to the transmission quadrant shift indicator. Have this wire unplugged at the lower column and then try another fuse. Things at Lincoln Land are looking great and the weather is turning for the better.

Bill

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Bill,

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try this week and let you know.
Take care,

Jerry

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Chris,

If you are in the proximity to "Bill's Corner," please pass on my thanks to him for his excellent advice regarding the instrument panel lights not working in the white Mark III. I was out at the hangar last night and was able to disconnect the wire going up the steering column as he suggested. After putting in a new 6 amp fuse, I turned on the parking lights and much to my delight the instrument panel lights and other lights on that circuit came on just like they are supposed to. Obviously, the light for the shift indicator did not come on but that's no big deal.

I appreciate all the assistance -- and I'll holler at you if I get in over my head again!!!

Jerry

Posted by Bill at 9:50 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

I have a question about a turn signal lever. My turn signal lever of my 1971 Mark III (tilt steering) is broken (common problem!). My car has a turn signal lever with cruise control. Now I can buy a turn signal lever with out cruise control, will this fit my car?? To be honest, I do not care if my cruise control will work anymore because I never use it anyway! But will it fit?

I also need some help with my horn (rim blow) this is not working! Can you give me some direction where I have to start looking? I hope to hear from you.

Thanks!

Ray

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Hi Ray -

You should have no problem using a conventional turn signal lever as a replacement. Of course you then would need to make other arrangements to operate the Speed Control if you ever wanted it to operate again.

To find out if the Rim Blow insert is faulty, remove the horn pad and momentarily short the wires together. If the horn then works, the problem is probably in this insert switch. There is one available on E-bay at this time #300407403513. They are rare.

We wish you Good Luck
Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:57 PM | Permalink
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Bill -

I just ordered a shop manual from you yesterday as I purchased a nice '61 Sedan in Cooper City FL and drove it to Kentucky last weekend.

After 100+ miles on the highway at about 70MPH it develops the old "flat on it's face, out of fuel" symptoms. If I feather the throttle to the next filling station and fill it up it suspiciously takes 11.3-11.5 gallons and runs fine 'til next time.

I'm thinking there may be a crack in the pickup tube in the tank about 1/2 way down and when the gas drops to that level it sucks air. Ever heard of it and does it sound reasonable to you?

Thank You,

JL

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Greetings JL -

Congratulations on your Lincoln purchase and also your purchase of the Manual. The Manual will pay for itself many times over.

After reading your post a few times and realizing that we both may have no knowledge of any previous repairs to your fuel system, an inspection of the fuel sender and pick-up tube is indeed a good place to start. At Lincoln Land we have seen these units appear in our shop with all sorts of problems such as clogged tubes, tubes bent and out of alignment, severely corroded and leaking, etc.

These units are removed from inside the trunk and are usually easy to deal with. A complete inspection of the fuel lines and hoses as well as the fuel filter could be next on your list. If you do not uncover any problems with the any of the above items, contact us again for further suggestions. Good luck on a speedy repair.

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:05 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 1961 Lincoln Continental. I was having issues with the Fuel Pump, so I went through and changed the Fuel Pump, Pushrod, Fuel Filter, and all of the soft lines under the hood. It started right up with no problems. I drove it around for a few days, and everything worked fine.

My issue is after a couple days my battery managed to die, because my parking lights did not shut off. So I say, "I'll just charge my battery and everything will be OK" . Well, that's not the case. Upon trying to start the car with a fully charged battery, I hear a really loud grinding noise, and the car won't start. The grinding is so loud, it hurts ME to hear it. The starter is brand new and for the correct year. Any Ideas on what went wrong? Your help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Emanuel
Santa Clara, CA

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Hi Emanuel -

Yes...... Sometimes the car hobby can really be a Grind. It is hard to tell from your E-mail if the noise is from the starter drive trying to engage to a bad ring gear on the flywheel or if the starter is actually cranking the engine and it is trying to start. Also, a battery that is only partly charged can cause the starter solenoid to buzz. Some noises are hard to describe to another person and so a buzz could described as a grind or a mash etc. Even though you are saying that the starter is new and the battery is in fact fully charged there is obviously something wrong. Because I can't be sure of the actual condition of the battery I would remove it and take it to a trusted auto parts store and have them evaluate it with their test equipment. After you are absolutely sure of the battery and the engine still emits a terrible noise as you describe during starting, you will need to determine if it is coming from the starter. If it is, the starter will need to be removed and inspected (new or rebuilt parts do fail). At this time the ring gear can also be seen and inspected with the starter removed. Keep us posted and contact us further if you do not find the problem.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:06 AM | Permalink
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I am considering purchasing a '72 Mark IV that I test drove today from a local dealer. It has an issue that I would like some information about, though. The "Sure-Track" light is on in the instrument cluster.....I understand that it is brake related, but what would cause the light to be on, the brakes seemed to work pretty well.

Thanks,

Tom C.

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Hi Tom,

That light usually illuminates because of a hydraulic pressure differential between the front and rear brakes and could indicate a leak or a bad master cylinder. To prove that this switch is in fact turning on the warning light because of a problem you can unplug the wiring at the switch and observe if the light remains on.

The switch and wires should be easily seen under the master cylinder in the brake line. If the light goes out, it may be indicative of a brake problem or that the switch is sticking after a previous repair. If the light remains on, you could be experiencing a problem with Sure Track module itself.

Brake procedures and warning light operations are outlined in the shop manual. If you need further information, parts or manuals please contact us at any time. Good luck.

Sincerely

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:11 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have a 63 Continental. The previous owner had installed a small pump that runs along the undercarriage of the car to deliver the fuel to the engine. He said that it was common for these cars not to get enough fuel through the factory fuel pump; he mentioned that the Thunderbird had the same issue.

The pump is activated by a switch inside the car, if I turn it off the car starts to shut down. Does this mean that this pump is the only way the car is getting fuel, and not through the regular fuel pump or sending unit? Your suggestions would be helpful. Should I live with it, after all it works. Or should I correct it to what it should be. Or what is the problem with the car not getting enough fuel on its own without the help from this pump?

Thanks you for your thoughts!

Robert

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Greetings Robert -

Yes it does sound as if your electric pump is the only source of fuel supply for the engine. The original fuel pump set up on that engine did indeed have some unique problems. These problems and any other concerns however are easy to overcome with proper upkeep of the vehicle. That is to say "address concerns as soon as they appear".

Assuming that your Lincoln has all of its original fuel system equipment I would restore it as the primary fuel supply and keep the electric pump as a back up. Many of our Lincoln friends do this and it works out very well. At Lincoln Land we normally stock the necessary parts and manuals for the fuel system restoration for your car.

Please contact us for further information regarding this matter and we will be pleased to supply you with any parts, information and help that you may require.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:41 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I recently purchased a 1961 Lincoln Continental convertible for my business to use for wedding chauffeur service. It is a beautiful white convertible that has some real appeal for weddings. The car has a recently rebuilt 430 engine (<3000 miles) and most of the components on it have been rebuilt or replaced with new parts. When I bought the car it had a Holley electric fuel pump providing the fuel to the otherwise stock fuel system and carburetor. The fuel pump is located inside the engine bay on the driver-side fender near where the fuel lines enter the engine bay. The Holley was pushing the fuel through the original Carter 3 port fuel pump which was still on the engine, but the push rod had been removed. When I drove the car from Georgia (where I purchased it) to Dallas Texas, I noticed every time I would stop somewhere for a few minutes (10 to 30 minutes), when I would start the car back up, it would start just fine, but after a minute or two the car would sputter and die. Then it would be very hard to start, and acted and smelled like a flooded engine. I had to hold the pedal down and crank it over many times with the throttle opened wide before it would finally sputter and start. Once it was restarted it ran fine, but it would darn near deplete the battery each time I had to start it that way. Also the fuel pump would be quite noisy after retorting (possible cavitation). So it definitely seemed like a vapor lock or heat soak related issue as the car started perfectly every time when cold.

When I got the car back to Dallas I disabled the electric pump (by disconnecting the wire) and put in a new push rod for the mechanical pump. I also rebuilt the fuel pump with a kit I purchased from you guys. When I put the rebuilt pump back in the car along with the new pushrod, initially the car would not start. So I plugged in the electric pump to "prime" the mechanical pump. I then disconnected the electrical pump and the car started like a champ. I turned the car on and off several times in the garage and the mechanical pump seemed to work fine. A week or so later I drove the car to a friends place and after talking with him for 20 minutes I came out started the car and left. About 2 minutes down the road it sputters and dies. Same problem, but now with the mechanical pump. I also have noticed that the car smells strongly of gasoline when it is parked hot. Now my question to you is how to best remedy this problem.

Here are some other things I observed that may be relevant. When I rebuilt the fuel pump, I noticed in the shop manual that the original fuel pump is supposed to have a thermostatic valve installed behind the third (return port fitting) on the fuel pump. Mine did not have this thermostatic valve. I also noticed the rebuild kit did not have one. Is this valve needed? Also all my fuel lines are rubber from the fender to the pump to the carburetor. Should I use metal lines instead? Would using a phenolic spacer under the carburetor help? Also could the air filter box valve be sticking and causing these kinds of problems? I noticed the air cleaner box looks like it is pulling air from the exhaust manifold area when the car is cold. I have not managed to check it yet hot.

Any how, because of the nature of my business I need this Lincoln to be very reliable. Brides are not happy when their get away car dies on the road in front of all their wedding guests. Any help is appreciated.

Chris

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Greetings Chris -

Problems such as you describe are sure no fun but I can assure you that when these cars were new and plentiful they did not drive around with such fuel and vapor lock type of symptoms. Your Lincoln appears to maybe have at this time more than its share though. Because you have recently purchased this vehicle it is more difficult for you to diagnose with limited maintenance history available. We always recommend restoring the original fuel delivery and carburetor to the original set up and using the electric pump as a backup only. You seemed to have begun doing this already.

The first item that I would address is the strong fuel smell. Any fuel leaks are not allowed and as you probably know, they can accelerate with devastating results. A complete fuel system inspection is in order by a technician who is well versed in such problems. If the fuel smell is from the carburetor for instance it may indicate that a carburetor cleaning and overhaul is overdue or that the fuel pressures are too high.

On the other hand if you have a rotted, cracked or corroded fuel line or hose, the pumps can draw in some air with the fuel when operating and then leak fuel when the engine is turned off. If the complete system is examined and evaluated as suggested above I am sure that you will find some easy to repair faults.

To answer your specific questions, the thermostatic valves are recommended and always in place on any pumps or vehicles that we deal with. Proper coded rubber fuel lines are allowed because of the necessary flexibility that is needed between the body and the engine.......but for the most part steel lines are used on the engine from the pump to the carburetor because of durability and heat. The carburetor should have all of the original spacers and air intake systems.

After reading the above Chris please contact us for further specific information and I am sure that we can help get you back on the path of happier driving.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:28 AM | Permalink
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HI Bill,

I have a 1979 Mark V Collector's Series, starts and runs great. A year ago after sitting a week it took 12 gas pedal pumps to start. This year, when it sits for a week, it takes up to 25 pumps and then starts and runs great. I can live with this, but it sounds like a problem in the making. What do you think?

Thanks,

John

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Hi John -

Yikes,... if they all started like that we would all have sore right ankles. Not knowing your car, it sounds like the basic tune up items should be examined first.

Without starting the engine, begin with a cold engine and the air cleaner top off and observe if the choke butterfly closes completely and with a definite action on the FIRST pump of the accelerator. Then look inside the carburetor while pumping the linkage and observe the underside of the choke for fuel spraying into the lower part of the carburetor. I trust that your fuel is fresh. If you have poor fuel delivery you must consider the condition of the fuel filter and fuel pump, etc. Repair any items that prove faulty during the above tests.

If all of the above is satisfactory then you may need to examine the spark plugs and wiring as well as possibly the complete ignition system. Because we at Lincoln Land don't know the condition of your engine or its history of repairs and maintenance, only the technician on scene with your car can determine the exact correct path to take. By the sound of your description though it does sound to me without being there that it is only a simple sticking choke problem. In this business however we have learned that - "It ain't over till it's over". Good Luck on a real speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill, Chris and all of the Guys and Gals at Lincoln Land

Posted by Bill at 1:35 PM | Permalink
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Bill -

I have a 1969 Mark III, the air conditioner works okay but when I attempt to change the temperature I get absolutely no heat or temperature change. The system works in defrost also but with no heat at all. The water valve to the heater core stays open when I call for heat. Any ideas?

R.J.

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Greetings R.J.,

Assuming that your car has the more popular Automatic Temperature Control option I can tell you that it is a great system but can be complicated to diagnose and repair without the proper Manuals.

The most likely cause of your problem is a failure that is located inside of the ATC box that has caused the system to drive to the full cooling mode and remain in this mode regardless of the position of your control. A less likely failure could be the sensor string (these are sensors that are in a series circuit with the driver's control that send temperature information to the ATC box so that it can react to deliver the correct air temperature, etc. to the car's interior as selected). A broken wire in this string will send the system into the full Heat but a shorted wire or sensor will send it into the full Cooling position.

Other easier to check possibilities are as follows....Heater core bypassed due to coolant leak at core, Heater core completely plugged, water valve plugged on the inside or water valve incorrect. The main control switches can also be at fault but their failure is rare. Another thought to consider if you do not have much history on the car is the possibility that a previous owner or his technician may have tried some unknown ill advised repair and has altered the system in an unknown manner. This can and does happen.

It may be of interest to know that when these systems were new it proved to be a challenge for the FoMoCo and the dealer technicians such as myself to learn the diagnostic and repair techniques. Proper diagnosis is half the battle. Now forty years later we are learning something new almost every day at Lincoln Land when it comes to repairing the earlier electronic systems such as this is.

The real good news is that we at Lincoln Land have all of the parts and supplies to repair your ATC as well as the ability to rebuild your ATC box and Servo. If you are doing your own repairs, we can supply you with the very necessary and highly recommended shop manuals for your Mark III. We wish you a quick and easy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill and the Lincoln Land staff

Posted by Bill at 9:42 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 1970 Mark III with an inoperable fuel gauge. The needle always sits on empty no mater what quantity of fuel is in the tank. What do I need to do to diagnose and fix this problem?

Thanks,

Patrick

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Hello Patrick -

If the Temperature and Oil Pressure gauges are working, the best and easiest place to start is at the Fuel Tank gauge electrical plug.

With the key on probe the three female pins on the plug with a grounded test light. One pin will have continuous power, one will be flashing and one will have no power. Have someone watch the Instrument Panel Fuel Gauge as you momentarily ground the flashing pin to the car body. The gauge needle should rise quickly to full. DO NOT leave this pin grounded - if you do, you run the chance of burning out the gauge.

If the gauge does not rise or you do not have flashing power at one of the female pins, you will need to repair the fuel gauge circuit or the gauge itself as per the shop manual.

If the gauge at the dash does rise then you need to repair the Sending Unit in the tank or its ground wire (which is the female pin at the above plug) that has no power with the key on.

Most problems are in the tank Sending Unit or its float. Lincoln Land does offer repair service for these and the other components in this circuit. Good Luck and let us know how the repair goes.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 1:58 PM | Permalink
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Greetings Bill,

I currently live in Seattle and drive my Lincoln at least once a day. The engine has 116K actual miles and runs like a champ. In the mornings, or when it is cold the engine fires with one turn of the ignition no problem, starts every time. Upon warming the vehicle up it smokes a slight bit. It isn't burning off coolant, so I don't think it's the head gasket and the smoke doesn't smell burnt either and typically burns off after a couple of minutes and then nothing.

Also after I drive the vehicle for awhile and the engine is up to temp if I start the engine it takes a while to turn over but only when it's hot not cold which doesn't make sense to me. You figure it would be the opposite.

I have a few questions:

1) What do you think is generating the smoke?
2) Why does my engine start better cold then warm?

As always thank you for your help.

Sincerely,

Justin

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Hi Justin -

Your engine condition and tune up situation should be evaluated by a competent technician. Some engines at 116,000 miles are like new, and others may have worn engine parts depending on their previous use and maintenance. Your problems may only be caused by simple maladjusted components or possibly worn engine parts (valve seals, rings etc.). Only a person on scene with your car can determine this. I would approach each problem separately and with the proper manuals at my side.

Good Luck....

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:11 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

I have a 1976 Continental Coupe with a Half Vinyl Roof. I have a problem with water collecting under the vinyl at the bottom of the rear window.

Wayne

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Greetings Wayne -

Water leaks in general can be annoying to car owners as well as damaging to the car. It also seems that no two are exactly alike.

If your car has the bright metal moldings that meet the glass they should be removed completely using the proper tools and methods. This will allow you or your body man to examine the areas under the moldings in order to determine the path of the water as it would drain off of the car. If there are any areas that look like they would allow water to intrude between the body and the vinyl, these areas should be cleaned and caulked as necessary with the appropriate window sealer. The moldings can then be reinstalled before the sealer completely sets.

If your car has no moldings that meet the glass but has the vinyl treatment that is instead wrapped into itself then you should look for breaches in the clear silicone sealer around the entire glass. These would then need to be caulked as necessary.

If your vinyl roof is surface cracked in any area or if there is any problem with the seal at the front of the 1/2 top finish area, these should be considered as well. You can see from the above suggestions that a successful repair is a real "hands on" experience and depends on proper examination and diagnosis. We hope that the above will be helpful to you and or your mechanic.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 2:02 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill

First things first ! I went to have a look at the Lincoln 1669 ( whit the broken head light covers, see my last question ) And this car was outside in a very good shape but inside was a different ball game ! No this car hat to much work for the money he was asking . So now I am starting to look for a other one and I know one this is a black one and here the outside is in a reasonable condition and the inside is new ! I say the outside is reasonable because the car has some rust spots on the B styles next to the rear side window, (outside off that the car is new spray painted ) . But this is something I can fix my self . But I want to ask you something about a vinyl roof ! and that is , is it possible to but a vinyl roof on a car ( 69 Lincoln ) who did not hat one when he left the dealer in 69 ?? ( cover up the rust spots! ) and if it is possible?? than I am looking for piece of molding strip and that is the one that is in between de rear window and the trunk and this one is going from left to right over the car and a little bit on the sides . This one is a part of the vinyl roof moldings ( see picture ) I hope you have some answers for me about this little ( big ? ) problem .

Ray in the Netherlands

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Hi Ray -

The parts to install a vinyl roof on the 69 Mark III are available but not abundantly available. We would need some appropriate lead time in order to supply the correct parts. You should know however that a 69 Mark III without the optional vinyl roof is a very rare (95 only built) and sought after item in the collectable Lincoln hobby. We have one pictured in our photo gallery section in dark blue. This car happens to be owned by myself since around 1983. Chris also has one in black that has been in his family for many years. You could consider restoring the top on yours the way it is and driving it for a while. After a period of time if you still want to, you could still install a vinyl top and moldings at that time. You should know however that some owners removed their vinyl tops because of severe deterioration that detracted from the great looking cars that they are. I am sure that whatever you carefully decide to do you will in the end have a Mark to be proud of.

Sincerely,

Bill

The link to our photo galleries are

http://www.lincolnlandinc.com/gallery/showThumbs.php?gallery=1

And

http://www.lincolnlandinc.com/gallery/showThumbs.php?gallery=13

Posted by Bill at 12:50 PM | Permalink
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Hello Bill -

I have a question about the headlight covers on a 1969 Mark III.

I want to buy a 1969 Mark III and the car is in top condition. Everything is working well (say's the owner), except the headlight covers, they are open and stay open!

Can you tell me what could be wrong? Or let I say it in a different way are these headlight covers a problem... BIG!! Problems?, or is it normally quit easy to repair ??? Just let me know what you think about it. When I buy the car I also get the shop manuals with it. So I can work from the manuals, if all the parts needed are available of course??? I hope to hear from you soon.

Best Regards,

Ray
The Netherlands

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Hello Ray -

It is good news that you will receive the manuals with the car. If they are the FoMoCo manuals you will find them very useful.

Headlight cover problems are a common complaint but only become a "Big" problem if the wrong technician is repairing it. With all cars, proper diagnosis is everything or at least half the battle. There are several posts on this blog that you can read that apply directly to your Mark III. When you read any parts of the blog that discuss the Autolamp feature you can disregard that part because the 69's did not have that feature.

We usually have all of the parts available for the Vacuum Headlamp cover problems and we can give you further advice as you diagnose the system. Another point is that you can have several problems (mostly vacuum leaks) that should be repaired. I would want to know also before the purchase if any of the non-operating Headlamp cover parts have been removed. It does happen.

If you do purchase the car we wish you congratulations in advance and we would certainly be pleased to look after your Lincoln needs in the future.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 3:49 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill-

The passenger door courtesy light fixture on my 86 Town Car will not function properly, even with a new bulb. While cleaning the interior the other day with doors open, I noticed the bulb was flickering, so I removed the lens and checked it. The bulb looked fine, but just in case, I tried another, and it did the same thing. For now, I just have removed the bulb.

The same thing happened on my 88 Town Car a few years back, but in that case the bulb had exploded in the fixture, I never did replace that bulb either. The rest of the lights are working as they should.

Have you run into this problem on other 80's Town Cars, possibly a manufacturer's defect? Do you think a completely new fixture in the door is needed? Any help would be appreciated-thanks very much and I really enjoy this addition to the website!

Michael

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Greetings Michael -

We are pleased that you are enjoying our new technical blog. The courtesy light is really a simple circuit that sends power through the bulb and then to ground inside the door. One of the most common problems in situations such as this is a fatigued and broken wire in the door jamb loom (wiring harness). This is the wiring near the door hinges that connects the electrics inside the door to the body. The loom can be seen with the door open. I would open the door and observe your problem light while wiggling the wiring loom. If the bulb flickers in response to the wiggling, the broken wire inside the loom needs to be located and repaired as necessary. If there is no response to the wiggling then the circuit should be examined and traced for continuity starting at the courtesy light assembly in the door. A new assy. is needed only if it is proven to be faulty and not repairable. In the event that you do require any parts, we have these and any further advice that you may need.

Wishing you a speedy repair -

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:45 AM | Permalink
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Bill -

I have a problem with my toy. Kids were messing with roof. Smoke started billowing out of passenger side of trunk. Now the trunk motor is not engaging.

I do not know anything about the roof. It appears as if one motor initiates process. The trunk moves up about 2." At that point it seems like a main motor is suppose to kick in. Currently, the trunk moves up initial 2" but main motor is not engaging. Sounds like the main motor is functioning, but the screw (I think it's a screw) is not engaging. Not sure I have the sequence right but that's what it seems like. So, my questions are:

1. How do I get that trunk open manually?
2. Do you have any idea what is broken?
3. Is the part replaceable?

Please let me know.

Thanks,

Paul

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Hi Paul -

Yikes!..... Kids messing with roof, smoke billowing out....That is a 4 Door Lincoln Convertible owners worst nightmare!

The top system on these cars is a very complex mechanism. The good news is that these cars are very collectable and well respected in the old car hobby. As a result we do have all of the repair parts in stock or quick access to the hard to get items.

My best advice to you if you wish to do your own repairs is to obtain the proper manuals and wiring diagrams (we can supply these to you) and then to familiarize yourself with the operation. Then you can decide if this challenge is for you. If you decide to have someone else do the repair, you will have these necessary manuals available for them to use. It is possible that the repair is an easy one but "Could" be made worse if the wrong person is working on it. We certainly wish you the best of luck and an easy fix. If you wish us to supply the manuals etc. please ask for George when you contact us.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:55 AM | Permalink
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Bill -

My 83 Mark VI Pucci Coupe that my dad purchased brand new has a headlight issue. The headlights have a mind of their own. The low beams only work when the high beams are on and they flash intermittently whenever they want to. I had a new switch installed problem still exist. I unhooked the Auto lamp from the switch and they no longer flash but the low beams still only work when the high beams are selected. I think there was a recall on the relays back in the day, but have no idea where they are. Any help is appreciated. Don't know where to start.

Thanks,

Rodney

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Hi Rodney -

Ya gotta have the lights working properly. The first thing to check is if the Low beam filaments are burnt out in BOTH your low beam (outboard) sealed beams. It can happen. Also, if you have installed newer beams that draw more amps than the original, the H/L breaker could flash the Headlamps. I trust that you installed a New correct H/L switch. Another possibility to consider is if this problem started after a repair of some sort was performed on your car near any of the H/L wiring. The Autolamp system uses relays in the control module but I believe that the manual operation does not. If you have no success with the above suggestions, it will be time to make the tests with the appropriate testers with the shop manual and electrical diagrams at your side. We hope this information leads you to a speedy fix. Keep us posted.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:37 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

Once again I could use some advice on my Lincoln. You've helped me in the past and I trust your opinion.

The Door Ajar light is stuck on and the driver's side door doesn't lock either with the key or the power lock control. The power lock control does however work on the passenger side. I'm curious if the problems are related and if you think I have a bad switch on that side or the power lock component doesn't work for the driver's side. Also is this a part I should by new or used if that is the case.

Justin

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Hi Justin -

To answer your Shop Manual question first, yes we can arrange to send to your address a set of 1978 manuals hot off the press. Another benefit of the manuals is that if you ever sell your car and the manuals are included in the sale, they become a selling feature to the buyer. George will e-mail you with the details.

As for your power door lock problem, your description sounds like the Door Lock Actuator has gone south and is now seized. If so the key will not operate the lock and the door lock switch will only operate the right side as you describe. The Door Open warning switch is also located within this lock assembly as well and it can be inspected for damage at the same time that the actuator is replaced. The above conjecture is based on our experience. The good news Justin is that we have new Actuators available whenever you have finally diagnosed your problem. Let us know the results and feel free to contact us for further information.

Wishing you Good Luck,

Bill and the Lincoln Land Staff

Posted by Bill at 9:13 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

My Lincoln Town Car has a problem ever since my oldest daughter crossed the jumper cables after killing the battery by leaving the lights on the car. Ever since she did that, everything seems to be going crazy on the car. For instance, the Air ride Suspension lights on, more codes got added from the original code to open the driver door, etc., etc. I have tried locating the main computer but have not been able to because I don't know where it is. I found some box behind the glove box thinking that this was it. I went ahead and got one and switched it but that didn't work. Also I replaced all fuses inside the car and under the hood that burnt out after she accidently crossed the cables. What do you think it could be? Can you tell me where the main computer is? Thanks in advance.

David G

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Hi David -

Sorry to hear that this dreaded sequence has happened to you. This can happen to some cars and yet not to others and if these problems occurred immediately after the dead battery issue I have to agree with you that it has indeed been caused by the procedure that was used to start the car.

You don't indicate what year your Lincoln is and so I will offer you the following. Because the electrical is sophisticated and several electronic items or modules could be damaged, you should have a knowledgeable technician try to retrieve some trouble codes with the appropriate equipment that is designed for this purpose. You then can respond by dealing with the codes that are rendered to you. If no codes can be shown then substituting "good known" computers or modules etc. as you have indicated in your letter can certainly be an option.

To do the above procedures and to locate certain parts on your car a correct Lincoln Shop Manual is very highly recommended. If necessary and depending on your year and model of Lincoln, we have access to the appropriate manual and parts that you may require. Keep us posted on the outcome.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:10 PM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have a 1978 Mark V, and have a problem with the heating system. At first, the system was always heating, regardless of the position of the control knobs (Heating, defrost, temperature knob, fan speed knob). In summer, this was not great...

My mechanics, not very skilled in American electrical systems, just changed a Water valve (located in the engine, just near the air cleaner). After this change, I could close the heating, and I had vents, but I could not have heat! So, in winter time, this is also very great.

So I have two questions :
1 - Is there a simple thing to do with my new Water valve to get hot air ? (It seems to be controlled by a pneumatic wire)

2 - With your experience, do you know if there is a typical disease of the heating system? Should I change the two temperature sensors (inside and outside)? Are there parts of the system that should be automatically changed?

Thanks in advance

Regards

Grégoire

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Grégoire -

Thanks for your recent inquiry. Your problem is not uncommon to us at Lincoln Land, but in 2009 it certainly is not very common at most AC shops even in North America. In France you are served with more than a triple whammy in this case.

First of all your new water valve may or may not be the correct one for the vehicle and there are several parts failures or combination of failures that can cause your ATC problems. Replacing suspected parts without proving a problem with them is not the way to go and is a costly and time consuming procedure at best. A reasonable knowledge of the system is a definite requirement for anyone attempting a repair. Anything else is pure guess work. The best course for you is to have a set of proper FoMoCo manuals available for your mechanic so that he can see how the system operates and where and how the parts are installed. We have manuals and most of the parts available if and when you may need them.

If you still would like to "try" some popular parts because of your situation and location we would be happy to accommodate you and send to your address the replacements for the "top three" most replaced parts for this condition. Please advise how we may assist you further in this matter.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:33 AM | Permalink
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Greetings Bill,

I have a simple but odd problem which I'm wondering if you've run into.

I've gone through three alternator belts in the last month. I drive the car for about two weeks then I start getting a squeal. By then it's too late and I break yet another belt. I'm following all the necessary precautions and putting the belt on correctly. I make sure there is ¼ inch give on the belt so it's plenty tight and it doesn't seem to loosen over time. I'm wondering if maybe I have some cheap after market alternator that is creating the problem or something else. Have you ever heard of such an issue? I've worked on plenty of vehicles and I know that I'm putting the belt on correctly so I figured this might be a Ford thing??

Thanks,

Justin

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Justin -

That sure sounds like a real fun time. Assuming that you are using a good quality automotive belt and not an F.H.P. (Fractional Horsepower Belt) and you have already checked the pulley alignment and any other obstructions etc. I would do the following. After driving the car for 10-20 miles with another new belt I would remove it and spin all of the pulleys by hand that this belt operates on. You will be checking for seizing bearing components during this test. Also very important is to NOT over tighten any belt. Let us know the results.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:04 PM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I have a 78 Lincoln Mark V with a trunk leak. The leak appears to be coming from the topside upper left but I just can't seem to pinpoint the leak. My Uncle said it was the left drain plug but I replaced that and it did no good. I also tried caulking the left side window. The trunk seal seems to be in great shape. Someone told me to climb in the trunk with a flashlight to find the leak but that was useless as well. My Dad also mentioned some drain tube on the older models but I don't know where to look for this. Any suggestions would be great.

Also my "Miles to Empty" digital reader is working intermittently. Is this difficult to replace? Where would I track this part down and can I repair myself?

Finally where can I locate a cheap factory manual for the car or where is the cheapest source. I love my new Lincoln and want to take good care of her.

Oh and one other question. I bought this Lincoln with 116K miles. Should there be any necessary routine maintenance I should perform at this stage?

Thanks man and have a great one.

Respectfully,

Justin

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Hi Justin,

Tracing water leaks on cars can be time consuming and disappointing at times. Water can enter a car at one point and show up several feet away. Some leaks show up only after the car wash and others only appear after a light but steady rain. The best way to diagnose is to apply water to the suspected area from the bottom and working up. A popular and possible leak on your car could be at the rear window area. To trace a leak in this area, water can be applied to the rear window (lightly) with the trunk open. Excess water will drain out at the trunk gutters during this test as designed while someone in the trunk watches for the leak to appear inside the trunk. This whole procedure requires patience. This is why many owners take their cars to a body shop for this problem.

The Miles to Empty modules are not repairable apparently. We have used ones available, but have found that they can be unreliable in many cases. Furthermore - the problem may be in other items - such as the Fuel Sending Unit itself. In the future we may have a good but fix for this problem but at this moment we cannot offer you anything that would be acceptable to you, or us. I hope you appreciate our honesty in this matter.

We only recommend and sell the proper FoMoCo manuals for your car. We find that anything less does not measure up to our standards. These of course are not the cheapest, but the money spent can easily be recovered during the first repair in many cases. The necessary maintenance schedules are show in the Shop Manuals and the Owners manuals. Please contact us further for any manuals or parts that you may require.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 1:16 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I was hoping you could offer me some advice!

I recently acquired a 1982 Continental. It was hard starting when cold, however started fine after warm up. I took it in to a mechanic, who rebuilt the carb and reinstalled it, but now it seems to idle high and is running rich, and it still starts hard! Not as bad as before, but still a hard start just the same.

In addition, the tranny now seems to not shift when it should. Did the mechanic miss or overlook and adjustment? Thanks in advance!

Jeannie

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Hello Jeannie,

Maintaining a car can sometimes be super frustrating. Have you spoken to your mechanic about the possibility of some further carburetor adjustments or if any transmission controls are not connected under the hood? Since you have only recently acquired your car you probably do not know its maintenance history. For this reason I would also check and replace if necessary the basic tune up items such as spark plugs and wires The proper operation of these parts are important for good starting and running of the engine and for transmission shifting. If these parts are already in good working order, then the diagnosis becomes a hands on procedure and I would strongly recommend a shop manual for this. On your car there are many electronic and vacuum control parts that manage the engine and emission operation and for this reason I cannot suggest to you the failure of any one component. A good well versed technician will have the correct manual and equipment at his side and should be able to correct the problem. If you do need a shop manual set or any further advice etc., please do not hesitate to contact us. In any event please let us know the results.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:01 PM | Permalink
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Bill -

I have just purchased a 1970 Mark III Lincoln Continental and the hydraulic wipers only go halfway then stop.

Are there any tricks I should know? Are there any recommended operating pressures out of the pump that I could check etc.?

Regards,

Mark

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Hi Mark -

That wiper system is an excellent system. It is silent and powerful but can be a pain when they fail. Because you have recently purchased your Mark and have no history on the wipers I think that you should check the cable adjustment first. This easy adjustment is located behind the access panel at the firewall hydraulic inlet and outlet. Removing the screws and sliding the panel down the lines (no need to undo the hydraulics) should reveal the cable adjustment. Adjust it so that the cable is moving the operating lever to its extreme speed position when the control on the dash is turned to high. There certainly can be other problems but this is a good, easy and inexpensive place to start. Please let us know how it works out or contact us for further information.

Wishing you good luck.....

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:30 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

It's Gregg again with the 1970 Mark III. I have a couple of questions about the window motors for this car. I've just taken apart the right front door in order to replace the window motor. I did this on the left front and everything works fine there. I was wondering are these two motors interchangeable right door to left door and can they be rebuilt? I'm going to have to do work on the rear windows as well and I'm wondering if the rear motor units would be interchangeable as well. Thanks for the info on the headlight doors; I have a tech manual for 69 to 71 Mark III and am getting ready to run vacuum checks.

Appreciate you being there.

Gregg

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Hey Gregg -

Glad to hear that you are "en route" with the vacuum headlamp door problem. On your Mark, unfortunately the window motor assemblies are not interchangeable as the "Gear Ends" are symmetrically opposite (left and right). You can take yours apart if you like and service them etc. We do not offer this service at Lincoln Land at this time because we have new assemblies available at very reasonable prices. Except for the rear quarter windows, our new ones are complete with new gears as well. It is a real pleasure to have the electric windows working nicely and I wish you "easy fixes". Contact us at any time for further information and prices.

Sincerely -

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:02 AM | Permalink
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Hello Bill,

I just purchased a 1963 continental. When I go to engage the defrosting vent I get no air coming through the front windshield vents. The heater works fine...vents to the floor and the center vents. Any idea why this is not working? Any ideas would help!

Thanks,

Robert

_____________________________________________________________________

Hi Robert -

The first item that we would inspect is the ducting to the defrost outlets. If all of that is intact then the vacuum circuit for the heat/ac needs to be checked for cracked or missing hoses etc. and for correct operation of the vacuum control switch. All vacuum parts have given us problems in the past and we usually do not proceed without the shop manual at our side. The shop manual in this case outlines the necessary vacuum flows for your 63. We very highly recommend that you have this manual in your possession. Even if you don't do your own repairs, your mechanic will be happy to have it available and you will probably recover the cost of the manual on the first repair in time and labor. We have these manuals available and ready to ship at the moment. Please don't hesitate to contact us for any further advice.

Sincerely,

Bill and the Gals and Guys at Lincoln Land

Posted by Bill at 11:37 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill

I am restoring a 1970 Mark III. This is the first Mark III for me so I am learning a lot about the car. My question is about the headlight doors: while the car is running the doors are closed and they operate OK when the lights are turned on and off. Are they supposed to stay closed when the engine is off?

Gregg

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Hi Gregg -

Your question is a very common one and is a source of concern for many Lincoln owners including myself. The answer is YES they should stay closed for a period of time after the engine is turned off. As a matter of fact Ford has advised us in the past by special "Service Letters" that these doors or covers should stay shut on their own for a minimum of 24 hours.

Check the previous posts on our blog regarding this subject and I think that some of the answers there will help you to "tighten up" your system to prevent your headlamp doors from opening immediately after engine shutdown.

If you need more information or any manuals on this subject please do not hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:20 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

I have a '82 Lincoln Mark VI and a have a vacuum leak hissing sound only when the headlights are turned on from under the dash by the headlight switch. The headlamp doors work when turned on and holds vacuum when turned off. But it does have this constant hissing sound when turned on either by the autolamp or headlight switch. Is this the vacuum box or a escape valve?

Thanks for the help,

Rick

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Hi Rick -

So it's the old vacuum hiss trick. These can be annoying and sometimes hard to find but if you can hear the leak as you can, it shouldn't be too hard to find at all. We would start by inspecting all of the vacuum hoses under the dash that operate the Headlamp doors. A hose may have fallen off or been inadvertently knocked off during a previous repair. The Autolamp Module or vacuum box as you call it could also have a hose off inside or the H/L switch vacuum portion could have self destructed. Keep in mind that vacuum can leak anywhere that the vacuum is routed to and for this reason the leak could be actually found under the hood at any location where the hoses are fed to. Many times with a large remote leak the driver hears the vacuum rushing through other components under the dash as it speeds toward a leak that is located under the hood etc. This fools us into thinking that the leak is close by. All of the above is based on our past experience and scenarios Your problem should be easy to locate. Another possibility to consider is when did this leak begin? If you remember that it started immediately after a repair or service to anything near this vacuum circuit, I would start at that location. If you find that you need any parts, we usually have them in stock as well as the necessary service manuals for your car. I hope that the above leads you to a speedy and simple repair.

Sincerely -

Bill and all of us at Lincoln Land

Posted by Bill at 2:33 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a question about my 1968 Lincoln Continental, 462 engine, suicide doors. It now has a Edelbrock 750 on it and shifts late, the rpms are too high when it shifts. I have to hit 50 before it will hit third & then it downshifts itself when I let off the gas. It has 2 rods going from the carb to the trans linkage, could this be the problem? Also, do you know what the timing on that engine should be? Maybe a vacuum issue? Thanks for all your help, looking forward to getting some new parts for my car.

Jim

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Hi Jim -

If you are doing your own repairs on your Lincoln you will find that having the proper manuals are a real big help. If you are doing your own repairs plus any type of modification as well such as a carburetor change of some sort then the manuals are a "must have". The initial timing spec. for that engine should be approximately 10 degrees.

The transmission shifting problem must be annoying for you. From your description and the fact that a non original carb. has been installed leads me to believe that the carb. linkage must be fouled up somehow. The big question is .....Did the transmission shift properly before the carb. modification? The transmission should have only one adjustable rod (kickdown rod) going to it from the carb. linkage as well as one vacuum line routed to the shift modulator located at the rt. rear of the transmission. Both of these items must be in place and in proper working order and adjustment for the transmission to work properly. The carb. linkage on these eras of Lincolns is unique and must be maintained to satisfy the transmission requirements. Again I stress that a correct manual will help you immensely. For a 68 you will need the 67 manual and the 68 supplement manual. We usually have these and many other popular parts on hand at all times. We hope that all you will need is proper adjustment and that you will soon have that 68 shifting as a Lincoln should.

Sincerely -

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:00 AM | Permalink
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I own a 2001 Lincoln Continental and the low tire pressure sensor light is on. I took the car to the dealer and bought four new tires and had them check the sensors in the rims but they said they are all working properly and can't find the problem . I also have the airbag light on and they said (the dealer) it was a wiring harness problem under the drivers seat.they replaced the harness and the problem persists again the dealer can't find the problem do you have any suggestions.

Teamrider17

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Dear Teamrider 17 -

These are touchy questions especially the airbag. Both problems are reasonably uncommon enough to say that they are a hands on diagnosis procedure with proper code reading equipment as per the Manual. A FORD dealer should be well equipped for this and I can only suggest that you shop for a different dealer in your location for a second opinion. Both of those problems could be caused by any one of several failed parts and because of these being uncommon repairs at Lincoln Land, we would need to have the car in our shop to be anywhere near accurate. Sorry we can't be of more help without the vehicle....

Bill

Posted by Bill at 1:19 PM | Permalink
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I have a 1997 Lincoln Town Car that I love. Recently the rear of car has dropped significantly. What is causing this?

Thanks,

Gary

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Gary,

Your Lincoln was equipped with air ride in the rear suspension when new. Yours probably has the original system and now needs service at this time. The rear air springs cannot last forever and do in time develop leaks. If they are not replaced in a short time after starting to leak, the air compressor will most definitely fail as well because of "overworking" to compensate for the leaking air springs.

The above are two of the most common failures but there is also the possibility of the suspension computer failing or even something small like an underhood relay,fuse or a sensor link at the rear axle becoming disconnected etc. When you take it for service, be sure to find out if that shop is experienced with diagnosis and repair of this suspension. This suspension is extremely reliable in most cases and will provide many years of service. If however you wish to convert to conventional coil springs, kits are readily available for such a conversion. Lincoln Land has such kits available as well as NEW high quality air suspension parts in stock to return your suspension back to new condition. Please contact us anytime at Lincoln Land for any further information that you may need.

Good luck!
Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:41 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 95 Town Car Cartier with 141,000 miles on it, the electronic variable rate steering seems to be giving me an issue. I have the switch on the dash set to high, for the firmer feel, but I can drive the car for about ten minutes, and then the steering gets real easy (feels like my old Mark IV). If I stop and shut the car off, when I restart the steering is firm again for a little while then gets real easy, I tried moving the switch on the dash, once it gets easy, to low med and back to high and nothing changes. Just as a note, my air suspension is working properly. I would appreciate any help on this. Thank You.

Scott

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Hello Scott -

The condition that you describe must really make driving unpleasant for you at times. I know it would for me.

The E.V.O.or Electronic Variable Oriface steering varies the size of an oriface at the power steering pump in order to provide a variable steering effort for the driver. It does this electrically using multiple sensors that include a vehicle speed sensor and a steering wheel speed sensor and an adjustment switch for the amount of effort desired by the driver. The reason that I am explaining this is because it all leads to an electronic control module that receives the combined information from the sensors and switches and then applies the correct voltage to control the Oriface actuator. The module on (most) Lincolns of that era is also tied in with the Suspension module. Anyone working on this system must read the appropriate manual for their year of vehicle to understand the theory and sequence of operation.

The good news is that a diagnostic connector is provided for a technician to gain access to diagnostic codes from his proper code reader. Obviously this is not a Saturday morning "quick fix" before coffee time repair for everybody. If you want to trouble shoot this yourself you are limited but there are a few things that you can consider. Did the problem start immediately after another repair such as air suspension, power steering pump, anything in or near the steering wheel or shaft etc. etc.? This information is valuable to any technician that will be working on your car. If there was any work done near or at any sensors, switch etc. for the EVO the electrical connectors could be re-examined for a bad connection. If you are going to attempt the repair yourself, I strongly advise that you have the appropriate manuals at your side. If you will be taking it to a shop for the diagnosis and repair be sure to choose a qualified shop otherwise the possibility of too much guess work and incorrect parts replacement exists. Feel free to contact us for any further information or for any parts or manuals that we may be able to provide for you.

Wish you the best of Luck,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:28 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

I have a 1959 Lincoln 4 door that the rear window won't go down. It will go down about 1 inch and it stops, it lookes like it might be off its track, but not sure how I should start to tear it down to fix. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Jay

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Hello Jay -

Whether this problem is your door window, or the large retractable rear vent glass - you will need to expose the lower mechanical mechanism in order to inspect for loose, seized or broken parts etc.

At this time it will surely need a real good lubrication of all moving parts and rollers as well. If you need any literature for any panel and parts removal, we usually have a good supply available as well as hardware and motor parts. If you do need further assistance please don't hesitate to contact us at Lincoln Land.

Good Luck,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:15 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill -

I have been enjoying this addition to the Lincoln Land website!

I have a 1986 Town Car with 81,000 original miles in excellent condition. I live in the California desert and the temperature exceeds 115 in the summer months. After I have driven the car and park it for a short while, such as running errands, when I put the car in reverse, it stalls. It also stalled once while waiting for a long traffic light. I can put it in park and turn off the A/C and I start it up with no problem, then turn on the A/C again. This happens only during hot temperatures. The car just went through a complete service (oil change, radiator, a/c) and they found nothing wrong. All the gauges work properly-the temp gauge is fine. Any idea why the car is stalling?

Thanks -

Michael

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Greetings Michael -

I986 Town Car,.... a real nice car. I had one also and really liked it. I have read your letter several times and in general can offer the following.

It seems that age and heat are causing one of the under hood engine emission or engine management components to start failing. The under hood controls and sensors on your car work very well and were well respected in their day but after all of this time the system needs some service. Unless your mechanic is familiar with and is working on these on a regular basis and can go directly to the problem, he will need to use a code reader to try and retrieve a problem code from the car's computer. Otherwise it can be trial and error ordeal. However sometimes even with a code reader an experienced technician can temporarily be led down the wrong path. Before checking the above items it would be a good idea to inspect all of the under hood vacuum lines and electrical connectors for any leaks and or disconnects or for any deviations from the factory installation. All general tune-up items etc. should also be in good shape before trying to diagnose a problem such as you are experiencing. Here's hoping that the above will help lead you to a real quick fix.

Sincerely -

Bill and the Lincoln Land crew

Posted by Bill at 11:08 AM | Permalink
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Bill -

I have a 1978 Lincoln Mark 5 with the 6.6 engine. I have replaced the major components of the headlight vacuum system and still can't make them work. It seems when I start the car they close, and when I shut the car off they open again..

Tim

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Hey Tim -

Your headlamp doors open because they are designed to open as a safety feature if the system cannot hold vacuum. Vacuum can leak anywhere that the vacuum lines are routed. I'm not sure what you did replace, but if they open immediately as you describe you have a large leak.

The most likely components to leak are as follows.....Vacuum check valve, Headlamp door vacuum motors, Vacuum Reservoir, Headlamp switch vacuum valve, Autolamp Vacuum. module (if equipped), or any cracked or disconnected vacuum lines. Some vehicles have more than one leak. If you are not familiar with this system and its installation you will benefit greatly by consulting a manual and vacuum diagram. If you are keeping the car and doing your own repairs I strongly advise that you order the proper Ford manual. Diagnosing these components correctly is a must otherwise you will replace unnecessary parts. If you do wish a set of manuals or need any parts, we have these available for you. Good Luck on a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:56 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 1979 Mark V, when the engine warms up - it surges up and down when in park or idiling. It runs ok when in drive with my foot on the brake, or when i am driving normally.

Whats up?

Chuck

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Hey Chuck,

Problems such as this one usually require a hands on type of diagnosis but I will try to give you some basic items and ideas for checking it out.

I am assuming also that your spark plugs, high tension wiring, timing and other tune up items are in good order. First and foremost, try to remember if the surging started immediately after a component repair or any type of overhaul such as carburetor cleaning, distributor servicing, etc. etc. If so, it is important for you to stop at this point and back track to that component and re-check to determine if it was indeed serviced and set up properly. If that is in order I would then move to inspect the "dreaded" vacuum lines and sensors for the engine management located under the hood. This includes the distributor Vacuum Advance and the Choke Pull off and of course the choke operation itself. Another possibility to consider is if the engine thermostat is stuck in the open position and not allowing the engine to reach its full operating temperature. Some of the sensors for the smooth operation of the engine are calibrated to operate and respond with the engine at its actual designed full operating temperature.

Accurate diagnosis with this type of problem is more than half the battle and we hope that the above suggestions will help lead you to a quick and successfull repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 8:25 AM | Permalink
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Bill,

We have a1965 Lincoln which is being restored by my son. The turn signals won't work could it be the flasher or bad bulbs or something else also do we have to replace the stock valves to burn todays unleaded gas.

Thank You,

The Wolfman

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Hi Wolfman -

Turn signals....Ya gotta have em.

The turn signal flasher is a good possibility and a good place to start to look for a problem. It should be located behind the dash in the instrument cluster above the steering column. The power runs through the flasher and up the column to the t. s. switch via a blue wire. You could start by testing at this blue wire with a test light. If there is no power there with the key on, then the flasher is suspect. If there is power on this blue wire up the column to the switch the t.s. sw. itself is a good candidate. I strongly advise a wiring diagram and service manual as they can save hours of guess work and time.

As for the valves and unleaded fuel you may hear many opinions but the short answer is that for the most part no problems really occurred to any of us in the old car hobby that I am aware of. In 1972 Fo.Mo.Co and others began installing Case Hardened Valve Seats on the heads of their engines to handle unleaded fuel. The valves themselves are allready hardened. Back then we were all "scared" into believing that the valve seats on all of our older cars would soon recede into the heads and all kinds of roughness and problems would appear. We were told that we would need to remove the heads on our cars and have them all modified s.a.p. This never happened. I own four Lincolns dating from 1954 to 1970 and have experienced NO problems of this type. It is generally understood though that some valve seat recession could be measured if pre 1972's are driven with heavy loads at sustained and constant high speeds. This is our experience at Lincoln Land and of course we would welcome any other opinions and experiences. Good luck with your restoration!

Cheers,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 1:50 PM | Permalink
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Dear Bill,

My question concerns startup problems. Recently, after sitting overnight or even for an hour or two, My 1997 Lincoln Town Car is very sluggish, a lot of hesitation as I try to accelerate. After a period of warm-up it goes away and seems fine. This problem is ongoing. Maybe related, one time after driving about 400 miles to Baltimore the car all of a sudden shut down in heavy stall and crawl traffic. It started right up again and has not done this since. I am a bit reluctant to take it on long trips now with these carb issues. Any thoughts?

Thanks so much,

Jim

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Jim -

Without knowing the mileage on your car or any history of what service you have done to it so far, I would advise first to consider the normal maintenance items such as spark plugs, wiring, air filter and fuel filter etc. If the above is in good order the next step is to have a technician try to pull a diagnostic code from the car's computer. The engine management on the 97 is a fairly sophisticated computerized system and will store problem codes to be retieved by a code reader. I understand that many local Autoparts Stores will retrieve codes for customers at no charge with their code readers but all of the stores do not have experienced employees. All Lincoln dealers should have the latest equipment with trained employees. Accurate and timely diagnosis in these cases always proves to be more than half the battle! Again though I strongly advise to first make sure that the basic tune up items are in good order. Please keep us posted with the results.

Good luck -

Bill

Posted by Bill at 8:34 AM | Permalink
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Bill -

I've got a 65 Lincoln that produces a hissing sound under the driver's side of the dash when I start the car.
.
I assume it is connected to the brakes, as when I apply them, the sound stops, but the brakes are activated far too strong. Anything more than a feathers touch on the brake pedal nearly locks up the tires. Any suggestions?

- Ryan

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Greetings Ryan,

I hate it when that happens.

From your description it sounds like you have a classic Brake Booster failure. Something inside is ruptured or has fallen out of position. It must be removed and sent out for rebuilding or swapped for a rebuilt exchange unit. If we can be of further assistance to you please don't hesitate to call us.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:24 AM | Permalink
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Hey Bill,

Great Blog!

I have a 430 that's been totally rebuilt from the ground up by I am still experiencing Blow by, i.e., oil stains on the interior hood.

I thought after such a major overhaul, I'd be OK? What are your thoughts?

Also, Post rebuild, my automatic door locks no longer function? Thoughts?

Thanks a bunch,

Jake

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Hi Jake -

Sorry to hear that you are having such problems after a complete rebuild. You don't indicate whether you did the rebuild yourself or if it was done by a professional machine shop. If it was a shop I would certainly review the situation with them and get some assurance from them that they will look after you should the situation turn into needing to reopen the engine etc. Having said that, the good news is that the FORD shop manual describes in detail the workings and repairs of the sealed Positive Crankcase Ventilation system. It also advises that this system was mandatory in some states. Whether or not your engine has this system or not the ventilation set up on yours should be examined and corrected if necessary. Any type of emmission system must be in a correct operating condition in order for the engine to "breath" properly. Only then and after a decent "run in" time should you consider that the rings may not be performing as designed. I sincerely hope that you can get this resolved with an easy fix. If you do not have a copy of the 65 Factory Shop Manual, we would be pleased to arrange for one to be sent to your address. They are a must for maintaining any of our older Lincolns.

As for the power door locks, you indicate that they did not operate immediately after the engine overhaul. For this reason I would think that a vacuum line for that system was left off or misinstalled etc.under the hood . That vacuum system is also shown nicely in the shop manual. We hope that the above will help and we wish you good luck.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 2:23 PM | Permalink
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Hello Bill

I have A 1965 Lincoln Continental and the idle seems a little low, but before I start adjusting it I hope you could answer a question.

I bought the car in Colorado and I live in Chicago. I saw a show on TV where a car was transported to Colorado and it would not start very easy or stay on for that matter. On the show they figured out the carb needed to be rejetted because of the altitude, I was wondering if I need to rejet the carb for the altitude change in Chicago?

Also what grade gas should I be using? The last time I filled it up I used premium gas, I just tried to start it up yesterday and it was hard to start, and if I let off the gas it would die out. Wondering if the gas had anything to do with it ?

Thanks your for time -

Art from Chicago

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Greetings Art -

Before considering changing any calibrations on the engine or carburetor I would first make sure that what I have now is in top shape. I am refering to spark plugs,wiring, points and condenser, vacuum advance, choke operation,timing and fuel filter etc. Another item to consider is that with age the damper on the crankshaft pulleys are known to slip and give a false timing reading. If the car is new to you and you do not know its history, it may also at sometime had some old gas in the tank etc. and messed up the carb. Most of the above is normal necessary "Old Car Care stuff" that you are probably allready aware of. Your 65 was designed to take full advantage of Premium fuel only. Getting back to your question on jets,if you can find and send to us the carburetor tag# and the info. from the tag on the driver's door we may be able to tell you the size jets that the carb. had when new and also possibly what area of the country that the car was delivered to from FoMoCo. when it was new. I certainly hope that the above helps you and please keep us posted if you need any other advice or any of our other services.

Sincerely,

Bill and the Lincoln Land Guys and Gals

Posted by Bill at 2:24 PM | Permalink
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Dear Bill:

I have been a big fan of Lincoln Land for a long time and just now became aware of your blog.

I have a 1997 Town Car with 58,000 miles. My question is about the headlight switch. There appears to be a small indicator light next to the control knob. If this is indeed a light, is it suppose to be illuminated when the control knob is set to "auto"? I have my original owner's manual and a few shop manuals but I seem to keep missing any verbiage on the subject that might be explained in the text.

Can you help?

Thank you for any suggestions. Also, my thanks to Chris for all his help in the past too. By chance, has Lincoln Land received any new "baseball" caps with the Lincoln Logo on them? Chris had sent me one once before but the cap was shaped more like a "John Deere" cap rather than a traditional "baseball" cap that I would prefer (I'm embarrassed driving around with my Cadillac cap from the old days).

Sincerely,

Bob

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Greetings Bob,

Sorry to take so long for this reply. As you aluded to, the information in the manuals for this indicator light near the Headlamp sw. is unclear at best. This indicator light will come on only when the Autolamp is enabled AND if the Headlamps have actually been turned on Automatically by the Autolamp. This lets you know between early dusk and dawn that the Autolamp is doing its job for you.

As for the hats, Chris advises that we do not at this date have any of the ones that you would like. Keep in touch and check with us at a later date. In this business we have "surprise arrivals" all the time. In the meantime, enjoy that nice 97 Town Car.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 9:36 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I've just purchased a 79 Collector's Series and have a couple questions. The headlamp doors open fine when I turn on the lights manually, but when I set it to auto, the doors don't open, however the parking lights do come on. Is there an easy fix?
The second is to see if I can reprogram the garage door opener button on the drivers sun visor myself, or do I need to take it in? I appreciate you information and help.

The car has 56K miles, great interior and exterior and I want to get everything back into great working order. Thanks again.

John in Los Angeles

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Hello John

The Autolamp feature on your car is a great option and I think that most Lincolns had them starting in the mid seventies. When they fail however it is difficult to find someone who has the knowledge to quickly repair them. The problem is to be able to diagnose the problem Correctly and Accurately. This is why the Shop Manual is a must to have near by in order to find the location of and perform the necessary tests on the key components. Having said that, the following are my thoughts on what may be faulty with your Autolamp system based on my experience with my cars and the cars at Lincoln Land. I assume first that you have tested all fuses with a test lamp and that the system is receiving power. You state that the headlamp covers only open when you operate the headlight switch manualy and that they do not open when the Autolamp turns on the lights. You do not tell us however if the headlamps operate correctly with the Autolamp on so there are two possibilities. If the headlights DO operate and it is only the covers that do not open when the Autolamp is On then I believe that the Vacuum Solenoid module is at fault. It receives a power signal from an Amplifier to open the h/l covers and at the same instant the h/lamps are also turned on. If the h/l covers and the H/lamps both do not function with the Autolamp is ON then I believe that the Amplifier could be the problem. Of course any electrical contact or plug in the circuit is also a possibility but most faults are inside one of the components. Please contact us further if we can help you locate any parts or manuals from our warehouse that you may require.

The remote GDO is an item that we do not receive too many inquiries about. I understand from Chris here at Lincoln Land that the customers that had this feature factory ordered in those years received an Accessory Package from Ford and that the dealer would "prepare and set up the system" at the time of delivery. I am assuming that it also was a Dealer Care item at the time and that now 30 years later,any of this knowledge is no longer available. In any case my suggestion to you is to contact the maker of your GDO. If you are persistent the correct person from that Company may be able to advise you. My fear is that the technology in your 1979 Lincoln may not be at all compatible with the modern GDO technology but who knows,it is worth a try. Sorry to be so wordy here in these replies, but I wanted to try to cover all the "bases". If you can get some type of confirmation - we do have an New Old Stock Garage Door control package available for $150. I wish you the best of luck.

Sincerely,

Bill

Posted by Bill at 3:20 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill-

I have a great 65 Lincoln. Currently only drivers wing window
works and rear driver side window. I have a parts car with a functioning
master switch I installed still the same two windows working. Any ideas?

Thanks,

-Matt in Oregon

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Matt

Power windows can be real tricky and time consuming. If you are planning to do your own repairs you should have the appropriate manual for a 65 as well as at least a 12v test light. I would start by testing for power at the power window motor feed plugs of the non operating ones. This is why you need the wiring diagram in the manual. If you are not repairing the window operation yourself, your mechanic will be gratefull that you have a manual for him to use. At Lincoln Land we are able to test, rebuild or supply new switches for your 65 if you do require any. Those 65's by the way are real nice Lincolns. Keep us posted on your progress.

Sincerely

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:02 AM | Permalink
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Bill,

I Wish to THANK YOU for the Blog and Information being passed along.
You "Hit the Nail.... on the Head" with saying Leak's are a Cause of the HL Cover's Opening which lead's me to another Question.

Inside the Right Side "Kick-Panel" I hear a "sssssss" type sound of flowing air, which I assume is a Leak. What is Behind the Panel and Does it have one of the Control Valve's you mentioned (in Ron's question) as being sold as used ?

Keep Up the Great Service !
THANK's
Dale
Las Vegas

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Dale

If you are hearing a vacuum leak behind the kick panel, it could be the Autolamp module. This unit opens and closes the h/lamp covers automatically when the Autolamp feature is on and operating. There could be a vac. hose pulled off on the outside or the inside of this module. The unit may also require repair or replacement. Contact us further if you cannot easily repair it and find that you do need a replacement.

Good Luck

Bill

Posted by Bill at 1:23 PM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

My 1962 Lincoln is a very sluggish car. I used to have another 62
Lincoln and it had way more get up and go! I have done a few things
to help the car gain more power, but none of them have really done all
that much to help. I did a compression test and got the following
readings: 1) 130 2) 135 3) 135 4) 130 5) 125 6) 130 7) 125 8) 130
Here are the readings after oil was added to the cylinders1) 1402) 140
3) 140 4) 137 5) 125 6) 130 7) 135 8) 130
The compression in the shop manual is 180 +/- 20. I have some smoke
coming from the oil breather, but not tons of it. When the cap is on
it is really not all that noticeable. There is also a bit of smoke
coming from the valve covers. What could be causing such a large drop
in compression across the board that is so even? I am thinking it
could be the timing chain. Possibly a worn cam? Maybe a worn cam
gear? Exhaust valve seats messed up by unleaded fuel? What in your
opinion would be the most likely cause?

Thanks :)
Landon

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Hi Landon

Before jumping into an engine overhaul, did you make your tests with a warm engine? The engine should have been warm with the spark plugs out. If the above was done correctly I would address your "Very Sluggish" concern first by checking the following.... Fuel supply to carburetor.....Condition of plugs, points. and wiring.....Ignition Timing including the condition of the damper pulley. This pulley has the timing marks stamped on it and the outer part is known to slip on its damper rubber and thus indicate incorrect timing on your timing light....... The Vacuum Advance Unit on the distributor is also a very popular item to leak internally not be able to advance the timing at engine speeds above idle. The reason that I make the above suggestions first is that I think that this engine should have more power than you describe with this compression. If all of the above is absolutely verified to be correct and you still believe that your engine is just "worn out" and that a complete rebuild is in your future, then I would have its internal condition ascertained by a competent on hand mechanic.

Sincerely and the best of luck to you

Bill

Posted by Bill at 12:22 PM | Permalink
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Dear Uncle Bill,

The 68 sedan with auto. temp. is having a puzzling heat issue. When
the system is calling for heat in the "low" setting, everything inside the car seems to react as it should, outside the car, the hot water
control valve remains closed. As soon as the system is switched to
"high", the valve immed. opens and plenty of heat enters the car. (I
know; "don't push low") What are your thoughts?

Thanks - I do appreciate this blog!

Carter

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Hi Carter

We are glad that you appreciate the Lincolnland tech. blog. We try to keep it helpfull and easy to understand. Your ATC problem sounds like an electrical problem within the A.T.C. box. We would need to open it up here to verify this and then repair the issue. At the same time it is a good idea to go through all of the electrical inside the box and "tune it up" so that all functions will "snap to attention" for you. Give us a call any time when you are ready and we will arrange this for you. Will talk to you soon.

Bill @ Lincoln Land

Posted by Bill at 8:38 AM | Permalink
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Hi Bill,

I have a 1970 Lincoln Mark III and am having a drivability issue. If the car sits for more than one week without being started, you have to pump the gas about 10-20 times to get fuel into the carb. Once started, the motor runs horribly with very poor throtle response even when up to operating temperature. Howerver if you shut it off after warmup and let the car sit for 10-15 minutes, the car runs and drives great. I checked for vacuum leaks and could not find any. Any advice you have will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Patrick

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Hi Patrick

Before going any further on the hard starting I am assuming that the engine is properly tuned up in respect to plugs, high tension wiring, points and condenser and all of the correct adjustments to the above are in order. As well as proper ignition, the battery must be the correct size and fully charged and the starter must be in good order.Of course your fuel filter should be checked or replaced if that hasn't been done so in a while. If the above is in good order then you need to inspect your choke operation. Ideally the choke must be closed completely when the engine is cold and cranking. When the engine starts, the choke will open slightly as specified and then continue on to open completely as the engine warms up. An engine with poor choke operation will never start and idle properly when cold. All of these operations and specifications can be seen and explained in the available maintenance manual. I hope this helps you. Let us know if you need further assistance or any manuals.

Good luck

Bill

Posted by Bill at 10:29 AM | Permalink
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Hello, just wanted to say that I appreitiate your blog. It help me to maintain my newly aquired 1969 Mark III. My first question about the headlight covers, open slowly after the car has been shut off. I do know that there are "check valves" that help in keeping them closed, but can those check valves still be bought ? or is there something else I'm missing ?

Ron

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Ron

Problems with vacuum headlamp covers opening too quickly when the engine is turned off is very common. The check valves are a common problem but are no longer available from Ford. At the moment we are supplying only good used ones from our parts cars. We are however pursuing a source for new ones and we hope to have a product available sometime in the near future. These valves are not the only common failures for these systems. Look also for leaks anywhere that the vacuum lines are routed to such as H/L door vacuum motors, H/L switch, vacuum reservoir and any of the vacuum hoses. A service manual is an excellent tool for you to use in diagnosing any vacuum or electrical concerns. Just as a side note of interest is that when these cars were new Ford advised us that it was normal and acceptable for the doors to remain closed for 24 hours. With patience though longer periods are achievable. If we can further assist you with any of these parts or manuals at any time please call Chris directly and mention your post on our blog.

Sincerely

Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:31 AM | Permalink
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Dear Bill,

I am delighted to see your expertise and experience being integrated
into Lincoln Land! Congratulations!

I have a 73 Town Car with 27,000 miles on it in very fine condition. Two things; the "door ajar" light comes ON when the driver's door is closed properly, it goes off if the door IS ajar - bassackwards from what it should be - what do you suggest? Secondly, when the car is cold, the transmission shifts perfectly, when hot and under a load, it "shimmies" between 1st and 2nd, and also between 2nd and 3rd. I do not know when the last time the transmission was svc'd, if ever, and wonder if a fluid and filter change, maybe some conditioner might be of help.

Help!

Thanks and hope to see you in the late winter or early spring.

C.W.
Romney, WV

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Greetings CW

The switch for the door ajar light is actually located on each of the lock assemblies inside each of the doors. The switch inside of the door in question could have become loose or somehow broken and is grounding the circuit and therefore turning on the light at the wrong time. These switches are very simple copper straps that mount on to the locks in a certain position. The door trim panel and possibly the lock itself will have to be removed to properly see this operation and to replace or adjust this switch. As for the transmission, the fluid should be evaluated for condition. If you don"t know the history of the transmission servicing on the car, it is certainly a very good idea to service it as follows. Check the vacuum line to the trans. and repair if necessary. Drain all of the oil in the converter and the pan and check the pan for debris. Replace the filter if applicable and replace the shift modulator ( it is probably old ). If the fluid was in poor shape, the cooler and lines must be flushed. If the trans. still does not shift properly it will probably need resealing. If you are not doing this work yourself be sure to find a shop that you can trust. We look forward to your visit to Lincolnland.

Regards
Bill

Posted by Bill at 11:19 AM | Permalink
Have a question or comment? Email Bill

Bill's Corner will keep you updated on news and events, here at LincolnLand and around the world. It's also going to become Lincoln Central for tips and tricks on restoring and maintaining classic Lincoln automobiles.

Watch for regular postings from Bill Gray and other LincolnLand staff.

Soon we'll also allow your comments.

If there's something you'd like us to write about, email us with your questions, news, etc. We look forward to your participation.

And we hope you enjoy this addition to our site!

Regards,

Chris Dunn
LincolnLand, Inc.

Posted by Chris Dunn at 8:32 AM | Permalink
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