I recently acquired a 62 Lincoln Convertible, it used to turnover and start on demand, then the battery went dead, but was still able to start by jumping it. Finally I bought a new battery for it (not sure if this is relevant or not, but the old battery had 750 CCA's, the new one I got and put in had 810 CCA).

I hooked up the new battery it fired right up, and all was well. Then the next day I go out to start it and nothing. Won't even turnover, all I get is a clicking sound when I turn the key. That clicking sound is coming from the breaker/fuse box on the passenger side firewall. I opened the fuse box and nothing's blown, then in the lower half of the box it all looks OK, nothing is loose and all connections are secure (I'm not sure what that part is called in the lower half of the fuse box, if you know please inform me).

The starter is new and all connections are good, so that shouldn't be the problem. If you could help me out in any way shape or form please feel free, this car is too beautiful to just be sitting there and not starting for some simple reason over a part that is easily replaceable.

Thanks,

Nate

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Hi Nathan -

Congratulations on your recent 62 Continental convertible purchase. These are great cars to own and cherish and can give you many years of happy ownership. They are however not known as low maintenance vehicles.

If the batteries that you are using are new and are in good order in all respects and if jumping the battery still restarts the engine it sounds to me that some electrical item is discharging your battery during the time that you are not starting the engine. Perhaps a light such as a glove box light or a courtesy light etc. remains on at all times that you are not aware of.

Another possibility is that the charging system may not be charging the battery or could have an electrical fault that is actually robbing power from the battery when the engine is not operating. In any case if you are not skilled in automotive electrical diagnosis and do not have a wiring diagram or shop manual I would advise you to fully recharge and then disconnect the battery when you are not starting the engine. This action will prove to you that your battery is or is not the culprit until you can find the "power draw" gremlin or locate a technician that can do the correct diagnosis for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

I have a 1986 Town Car with 37K miles and I am having trouble with the fuel gauge. It has frozen up on empty and won't release to the correct position. I had it replaced in 2008 and the new one has done the same thing. I have been told its an issue due to the ethanol in the new gasolines available currently. I had a friend tell me to run some fuel system cleaner through it and it should clear it up. He said put three of the fuel concentrated bottles in one tank of gas and it should work. Is this recommended or should I pass on this advice? Looking forward to your response.

Thanks.....

Mark
Tuscaloosa, AL

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Hi Mark,

Nice car. I had an 86 Town Car and found it to be a great car. We are not experiencing the ethanol problems with the fuel sending units as you are describing. One of the most common failures that we see that cause an empty reading from the fuel tank unit is a float that has developed a leak. This causes the arm to sink and remain in the "empty " position. We can rebuild many of these units or supply the float if you would need it. If you believe that your issue is caused by the tank unit you could remove it and inspect the float. If the float is breached we can easily supply a new one. If the float is ok and the problem appears to be internal you could send the unit it to us for further testing and or rebuilding. I hope this helps you to a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

I am working on a 1961 Lincoln Continental, and I am having trouble with the charging system.

I have had the generator rebuilt and replaced the voltage regulator with a new unit. At idle the generator light is shining brightly. Once I get the vehicle off idle the light goes out and the generator charges. Is there anything I can do to remedy this problem?

The car has to be close to 1000 rpm before the light will go off which is obviously to high for idle speed. Is there a spec as to how many volts the generator should output at idle? I understand generators do minimal charging at idle, and you can expect the light to flicker at a stop with the headlight or other accessories on - but at idle with a fully charged battery and no loads it should not be on brightly.

Have you ever had this problem?, and if so do you have any recommendations. I have checked the system over multiple times and I cannot find any problems. I am starting to consider finding a smaller pulley to speed up the armature. I am out of ideas otherwise. I would be glad to supply any other information or answer any other questions you have. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Brian

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Hello Brian,

I agree with you that the generator light can come on at periods of idle and electrical loads, but should not be brightly lit at the higher RPM's.

If you believe that your charging rate is excessively low at idle and engine speeds above idle according to the generator warning light, you can verify the charging voltage with a volt meter hooked up to the battery terminals. The voltage to the battery as supplied from the charging system must be higher than the battery voltage in order for the battery to charge and that charging voltage must not be excessively high or an overcharging condition will occur.

I am assuming of course that the wiring on your Lincoln is correct and in good operating condition and has not been modified. The battery also must be in good all around condition and able to receive and store a charge, etc. If you feel that the above is correct then your next step is to revisit the regulator and generator. New regulators and generators can and do fail. If your rebuilder is local, he should be happy to verify that the generator and regulator are operating correctly for you on the car. If not, many local parts houses such as Advance or Autozone, etc., also offer this service at no charge.

I hope that the above suggestions help but if you are still having problems with the diagnosis or need parts assistance, please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

I just purchased a 79 Mark V with 25,000 original miles. The brake lights were on and the brakes looked a little frozen, so I did a complete brake job (front and rear). I was able to turn the rotors. The brakes were original and rotors had never been turned.

The brakes work perfect but the brake light is still on, I replaced all of the brake fluid and bleed the brakes. This car does have the Sure-Track system. How do I know if this is a Sure-Track system issue? I did notice that the 4 Amp fuse was missing so I replaced that. The brake light is still on. Where do I start looking to trace this problem?

Also, under the dash, just below the radio is a female plug with 14 posts. Nothing is plugged into this. What is it? I cannot seem to locate it in the service manual. Is this a plug for some type of an electronic trouble shooting meter?

Everything on the car works properly, including accessories, radio, power sun roof, power seats, power windows, etc.

Thank you

Nick

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Hi Nick
I assume that you are speaking of the brake warning light on the dash and not the brake lights at the tail lights. The usual problem with the dash warning light remaining on is caused by the switch in the proportioning valve remaining in the unbalanced position. The brakes must be bled as per the MANUAL as shown in the brake section regarding centering the switch action to turn off the light. To prove that this switch is indeed the problem it is located under the brake master cylinder and can be unplugged to see if the light then turns off. If the light turns off when it is unplugged, the system will need to be bled as described above or the switch is frozen in position and will need to be unfrozen or replaced. After you investigate this issue further, if you need more advice please contact us directly.
We are not sure what your 14 pin electrical connection is or if it is a factory connection but it could be a part of a factory Citizen Band Radio option. The cars of that vintage did not have a diagnostic plug under the dash. If you can send us a photo we could probably identify it positively.

Sincerely,

Bill

First problem is the driver side door handle is broken and the housing/console that holds the electrics has come detached from its mount. John Cashman (the Lincoln guy?) traveled thru Pensacola and worked on this and other issues a few years ago but it's now become totally detached from the door. I assume the entire piece will need replacement and have emailed the parts dept there to get info as well. Is that something a local shop should handle or is it too unique?

Also, I have ongoing battery/power issues and it even stopped while running once. Trouble shooting by my mechanic appears to narrow to electric window problems drawing the power down over time but he's really not sure. Never seemed to do this until over the last year. Any other ideas?

Just to add, I don't drive it that often, mostly on nice weather days and usually 1-2x a month but less now given these problems.

Last question, I'm not looking for show car level but if I really wanted to bring it up to a higher condition, I'm not sure how to go about finding someone, what would you recommend?

I appreciate your input.

Thanks,

Greg

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Hello Greg -

Welcome to our blog. I understand that John has already spoken to you regarding your armrest issues. Your ongoing electrical power problems should be diagnosed with the use of a correct wiring diagram for your 66. Suspected circuits can then be isolated in a logical sequence in order to "pin down" the faulty component. Popular items in our experience have proven to be.....Faulty battery, alternator, regulator or interior lights remaining on etc.

Your last question can take in as much territory as your personal needs and desires will allow. There are not many limitations as to the amount of time and money that can be spent in restoring an automobile such as a Lincoln Convertible. In your case a good strategy might be to pick out one or two items and bring them up to good operating condition during a period of time. You can then enjoy the vehicle in between these repairs. Or if you reside in a location where the weather is wintery and you wish that the car be left at a repair shop for an extended period of time then you must choose your restoring technician very carefully. He must be acquainted with the luxury aspects of your Lincoln and he must be willing to work with you regarding what your wants and needs are. Please contact us directly at Lincoln Land and ask for Chris or John and we will give you further advice based on your lcation and personal needs are.

Sincerely,

Bill

I just bought a 1988 Mark VII Bill Blass in pretty rough shape cosmetically. It seems to run real good, except I noticed that the gas pedal is hard to push, and at distance drives, my leg and foot get tired from the forceful stance I have to take to keep an even speed. Is there a way to fix That?

Thanks so much,

Rob

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Rob -

If the accelerator on your Mark VII is actually more difficult than others to operate I would check it by disconnecting the accelerator cable from the throttle body at the engine to determine if the cable is the culprit or if the throttle body itself has become stiff. Doing this will tell you which part needs to be serviced. Another thought is that a previous owner may have modified the cable or throttle body to compensate for a poor throttle return issue. The above inspection should be easy to do and you can contact us again with the results for further advice.

Sincerely,

Bill

Jeremy

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Hi Jeremy -

Your 66 Convertible is a great car to have and is well respected among all of the car collectors. The brake light switch because of its design must be tested for continuity in the installed position with a 12v test light. While testing, the switch and its wiring must NOT be distorted so you may need a helper to depress the brake pedal for you. If the switch worked while you tested it off of the car and will not operate in the installed position the switch may still be faulty or there could be some missing switch installation hardware. A shop manual would be a real asset to you for any repairs if you do not already have one. Please try this test again as described above and call us with the results or for further advice.

Sincerely,

Bill

Thanks,

Daryl

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Daryl -

From your description of electrical issues and the fact that some accessories are starting to operate on their own as you try them it sounds to me like you have a variety of bad electrical contacts. The car has been stored for a lengthy period of time in an unknown atmosphere that seems to have caused this to occur. The only procedure that I can suggest at first glance is to select an non operating item and carefully trace its electrical power path. For instance power from the ignition switch in the run position exits on a red wire with a green tracer and leads to the alt. warning light circuit and fuse number three in the fuse box etc. Testing the electrical circuit should be done in a logical sequence and most definitely with the CORRECT wiring diagram at your side. With the correct 12v test light you or your technician should soon be able to locate and correct any open and or poor contacts that you find. We hope that the above will get you started in the right direction. If you need any further advice etc. please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

These were the words that myself, my brother and sister heard many times throughout our childhood and into adulthood.

It all started on a January morning in 1972. It was a cold that morning with a bright sun, snow was everywhere but the roads were clean. and in front of Northwest Lincoln-Mercury, in Schaumburg Ill. was a shiny 1969 Lincoln Continental Sedan, ready to come home.

My father was very proud, my mother happy as she just "one upped" her sister who drove a 1968 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham..Mom had the newest car.

As we grew up, moms frustration with the Lincoln grew.. Dad was always at the short end of the stick, with no answers except, "I'll look at it"

You see, the car would start up fine when cold, after being driven a while, then turned off, and tried to re-start.... it would rawr, rawr, rawr and would not start. (slow starter drag) many times with a car full of kids and groceries, we would have to wait the allotted 15-20 minutes until it would start.

Once we got home, dad would get the wrath of mom... It was something we just got used to with the Lincoln over the next 25 plus years.

Fast forward to today - "finchie" has overhauled Engine/transmission/rear end/HVAC and all associated components... and guess what, she still has the same issues..

On my first trip out to Starbucks, and very proud to have car back from the shop, I got the same issue, rawr, rawr, rawr... That old feeling was back...

I could heard the echoes of my mom yelling at my father saying... "Rolan! the damn car won't start", all I could do is laugh, drink my Starbucks coffee and wait my allotted 15-20 minutes before the Lincoln will start... I even called my brother to tell him to guess what I was doing, we had a good laugh....

Bill - So what is it with these Lincolns??? My father is no longer with us, but Mom is and for some strange reason, I'd like to give her the answer that he never could.

Sincerely,

Rolan

P.S. The Lincoln and Cadillac occupy the same driveway space and are happy together....and a huge Thank you for all the technical support, parts sales!

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Rolan -

Are you sure that you want to spoil family tradition by correcting that starting issue? A 15-20 minute wait sounds like "coffee time " to me!

Hot starting issues indicated by "slow starter drag" as you state are usually caused by a high starter draw, a bad or weak battery or poor wiring in the starting circuit. If the car has had this problem since it was new we can probably rule out the battery but a wiring fault and or a bad starter motor could exist though for all of these years since 1969. Some factory defects can survive for the life of a vehicle if they are allowed to go on unaddressed. I assume that the engine timing and the general tune up conditions are in good order as these can and do contribute to hard hot starts. Another item that can cause hard hot cranking can be bad engine bearings. I know this first hand as my 1970 Lincoln suffered with this until I changed the bearings. It is of course well advised to begin by looking at the smaller easier to repair possibilities first as described above. Because this issue existed from when the car was new I would examine the starter circuit wiring very carefully as some wiring faults can be hidden deep within the insulation. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

Sincerely,

A.J.

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A.J. -

To answer your question simply, replacing the voltage regulator will solve a charging problem ONLY if it is faulty. The alternator, regulator, battery and their related wiring work together to keep the battery in a charged condition. Even though you have installed another battery and alternator the possibility exists that one of them could still be the problem. New parts can be bad. Because of this your charging system along with the battery should be tested using the correct equipment in order to pinpoint the failed part. Many local automobile parts stores offer this service at no charge. They will do these tests on the car or if you remove and bring the parts to them. At the same time I recommend that the battery be tested in order to verify that it can actually receive, hold a charge and be able to withstand a load test. If you are confident that the alternator, battery and the wiring is ok you may opt to install a new regulator as a test.

You don't indicate in your information if your battery is always undercharged, dead overnight or weak after several days etc. so another point to consider is the possibility of a power draw from another area in the vehicle. Many times in the past we have found that items such as courtesy lights, glove box lights, clocks etc. can discharge a battery after a period of time if they are faulty or remain on. We have also found that alternators that perform well with the engine running will draw power after the engine is shut down. I hope that the above helps to resolve your problem. If you need any further advice feel free to contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

I am getting ready to move to Modesto CA.. and I want to make this car my daily driver so any tips you can give me for reliability i would appreciate it..

Thanks a ton! Glad you guys are here for us morons! lol

Mike
Omaha NE

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Hi Mike -

Welcome to the forum and congratulations on your 66 Lincoln purchase. It sounds like it has been looked after and is in real decent shape. You have already uncovered an exhaust problem and a coolant leak so rather than give you a long list of possible other problems I will make a few suggestions since you are moving to another part of the country.

Even though the brakes appear to be in good working order they should be inspected for that long road trip. The steering linkage, suspension and tires should also be checked and all worn parts and tires replaced. If you plan on keeping the car you should consider also purchasing the necessary Ford shop manuals as they can pay for themselves in a short time. The Lincolns are all built with many "state of the art" (for their day) luxury devices that can eventually fail in time. Not all cars have the same parts and systems fail so it is best to get some experience with your car and make a list of issues as they appear. You can then tackle these items one at a time. As I stated above, your car sounds like it was looked after so many of the usual issues may have already been addressed. There is a popular site available on the Lincoln and Continental Owners Club ( LCOC ). It is a website that can easily be found and you can read about the many problems that others have encountered and their repair procedures etc. I think that you will enjoy the reading and gain more knowledge on all years of Lincolns on this forum.

In my opinion there is no real substitute for the r12 refrigerant but there are several refrigerants that have proven to be acceptable to many owners. If you ask twenty people you could get twenty answers. When you are located at your new address you can ask the other owners that visit the many local car shows in your new location. They will be aware of what refrigerant product is acceptable and legal in that State.

We sure hope that the above helps you and if you need any parts or further advice for the 66 you can count on us at Lincoln Land to help you.

Sincerely,

Bill

I'm having trouble with the #5 main cap to the crank shaft. I can't remove it. Is there a way to remove it that I don't damage the cap or the crank shaft.

Thanks,

David

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David,

Because of the design of the sealing surfaces on this rear main cap removing in can be very difficult in many cases. I consulted with Erik Dalemans here at Lincoln Land and he advises as follows. The cap has two threaded holes that serve as an attachment for the oil pan. He sometimes needs to thread in two longer bolts into these holes so that the bolts can be used as leverage to gently rock and pull the cap free. Tools such as vise grips etc. can be used on the bolts to carefully rock or pry the cap free and guide it down and out. Advising you with the situation that you are in is difficult at best without actually being there on scene. With a little patience and care you should be successful. I do hope that the above helps you. If you have any further questions please contact us.

Sincerely,

Bill

On my 1969 Mark III the headlights will flash wildly and there is a weird buzz that occurs when the headlight dimmer trys to change either high to low or low to high. The headlights come on fine when first turned on but drive 3-4 minutes and the flashing begins. I no longer drive it after sundown.

Patrick

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Hi Patrick,

I assume that you have the Automatic Headlamp Dimmer option. If so it sounds like the Photo Amplifier unit is faulty. It is located outside on the cowl near the windshield. I would try unplugging this unit and then operate the headlamps to see if they then operate normally. If so you may need another unit as these are non serviceable. There is also a Power Relay unit in the circuit but your description sounds like a Photo Amplifier issue as discussed above. Have you tried operating the headlamps with the beams locked on low position. This as you may know is operated by the foot dimmer switch that is located at the left floor area near the left air vent outlet and is visible in the carpet. Pressing this switch with your foot will switch the beams from Hi to Low and you should hear no buzzing or experience any automatic Hi /Lo beam switching when in the Lo beam position. The Autodim feature only operates in the Hi beam position. You also don't say if there is a reaction when you adjust the sensor dial behind the headlamp knob as adjusting this this may help or change the situation. At Lincoln Land we would however try another relay and if that fails to correct the erratic operation we would then try the Photo Amplifier. If you have more information after trying the adjustment or would need any parts or further advice please contact us at any time. The procedure for troubleshooting the Automatic Headlamp dimming is provided in the Shop Manual. This manual would be a benefit to you.

Sincerely,

Bill

I have a 57 Premiere with 64K miles on it.... Had the brake booster replaced and since then, it is undriveable. The brakes are so tight that anything more than 1/2 inch of pedal movement threatens to throw you thru the windshield. Very difficult to manage on an incline, so it sits in the driveway. How are these brakes adjusted so it is driveable again? I have other cars from the era so I know that power brakes and steering are different but not like this.

Thanks in advance,

Richard

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Hello Richard -

Brake issues such as you are experiencing should be actually road tested in person by anyone who is trying to diagnose a problem. If I am understanding your description though you are describing a harsh and very sensitive braking action that is hard to control. Your statement..... "had brake booster replaced and since then it is undriveable"..... may be the key to the problem. I believe that you should consult with the shop that rebuilt and or installed the booster and advise them what you are experiencing. This condition is not uncommon and in many cases the cause is an incorrect usage or installation of a repair part. The rebuilder will probably be concerned and will advise you exactly what action to take as this type of braking action is undesirable can be unsafe. If you can provide us with any additional information or would like to discuss this further please feel free to contact us at any time. I do hope that the above helps to quickly resolve your problem.

Sincerely,

Bill

I Have a 79 Mark V Collector's Series, 20K miles with a mystery problem I am at a dead on. When engine is cold it takes up to 50 pumps to get started. 3 years ago it took 10 to 20. Once started it runs perfect in every way and restarts when warm with a half pump.
Car has new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, gas and air filter. Linkage seems tight and normal, butterfly closes as it should on first pump. A good spray of carb cleaner into the carb helps it to start easier.

Logically it seems like gas in draining back and all the pumps are bringing fuel back to the carb but several people tell me this is impossible. Most parts on this car are original
Once it starts choke seems normal. Slightly higher idle for a few minutes, then normal
No gas odor, no exhaust smoke. No sign of flooding.

You can see why I need your detective work....

Thank you Bill,

Charlie

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Hello Charlie -

Some of these cold start problems can be frustrating but sometimes the answer turns out to be simple. An engine requires a strong battery, starter motor, good ignition and a fresh clean fuel mixture to start. When cold the engine also needs a richer mixture. Assuming that your ignition is in good order as you are indicating I think that you should examine the fuel system first. The choke on a cold engine start should be fully closed even while cranking. When the engine starts the choke opens slightly and continues to slowly open completely as the engine warms up. Fuel in the carburetor should be available in abundance at this time for the correct mixture. You tell us that the addition of carb. cleaner helps it to start easier. For this reason I think that you should hold the choke open on the cold engine and carefully observe the inside of the carb. with a light while pumping the linkage. This is of course is done with the ignition key OFF for the purpose of checking the fuel availability to the cold engine from the carb. If the ignition is strong and plenty of fuel is pumped into the carburetor at this time and the choke is operating as described above the engine will start. If fuel is not pumping into the carb. during this test you have a fuel delivery problem to the carb. or the accellerator pump inside the carb. is faulty. You would then need to check for a plugged fuel filter at the carb. and then perform a fuel pressure and volume test. This is outlined in the manual and will reveal if there are any problems for the fuel to be able to flow correctly from the tank to the carburetor. Fuel cannot drain back from the carb. and into the lines as the vehicle sits unused but if the car has sat for a long period of time the fuel can evaporate and deteriorate. In this case a few seconds of cranking will replenish the fuel bowl if the fuel delivery system is performing for you as designed. You may discover during the above tests that your problem is indeed a fuel delivery issue and that this ciircuit will need a complete inspection and maintenance. This service is normal for a vehicle of this age. I hope that the above provides you with "food for thought" and helps to quickly locate the starting problem with your MK V. If we can be of further help with any advice or parts etc. please do not hesitate to call.

Sincerely,

Bill