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June 27, 2018

1976 Mark IV Fan Questions & Updates...

Bill -

My fan had a high pitched scream and eventually died. I replaced the fan under the glovebox passenger side firewall. The high speed only works. What electronic component do I need & where is it located?

Thanks,

Michael

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Hi Michael -

Your only questions " what electronic component do I need and where is it located" is impossible for anyone to answer with any accuracy without some sort of meaningful diagnosis. What have you tested so far to correct the issue? It also would be helpful to know if the " High speed only" issue existed before the blower motor was changed. Proper diagnosis can only be performed with the use of the correct FoMoCo manuals. Most other manuals are woefully lacking in the needed information.

If however you are only wanting to guess and replace parts and need a list of previous parts on other vehicles that have corrected your issue, I can make a list and send it to you. We have most of the repair parts already in stock and available for you. Let us know how you wish to proceed and good luck on a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

Thanks for your email.

Sorry my description of the problem was rather vague. I was only allowed a paragraph to describe my problem.

I have owned this Mark IV for 14 years. Two years ago the Air conditioner/heater fan motor was making a high-pitched screaming sound. I was able to purchase a motor and new squirrel cage fan. I installed that.

Before installing the motor I tested both original and replacement motors by using a hot wire. The original did not move. The replacement worked well.
After installing the fan, in the shroud behind the glove box, I turned on the air conditioner and it worked on high only. Then after a minute it stopped. I smelled something hot. I have not turned it on in two years.
I was living in Washington state at that time. I have since moved to Texas where air conditioning is mandatory.

I belong to the Lincoln and Continental Owners Club. A gentleman in the club told me that it was most likely a relay that had burned out. He explained how a relay works. He said based on my description of the problem it was most likely a relay.

He owns a Mark III Continental. He pointed that the relay was either on the firewall on the engine side or on the firewall on the passenger side.

Because these areas are labor-intensive to get to I asked him to look at my manual. After looking at the manual we both scratched our heads. He said to ask you.

My questions are;

1. Do you think the relay is my problem?

2. Do you know exactly where it is located?

3. Does your company have this part?

When I looked at your catalog the relay was in gray not black. This made me think that you do not have that particular part.

PS: I have checked the fuses. AOK.

Michael

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Hi Michael -

To answer your questions.

1. Do you think the relay is my problem? No, not at this point without proper diagnosis.

2. Do you know exactly where it is located? It is located on the engine side of the firewall in the vicinity of the brake booster and the vacuum manifold.

3. Does your company have this part? If we do not have a new one, we can supply a used one that has been expertly cleaned and tested internally. We can even offer to test your relay here at Lincoln Land if you can mail it to us. Our office can make these arrangements for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

P.S. Please be advised however that your description strongly suggests that much more than one problem exists here.

June 13, 2018

1979 Collector's Series AC Concerns

Currently running R-12, Low side return hose between evaporator and expansion valve is getting very cold, although is not freezing up. Its as though there is no air flow across the evaporator when the Automatic Temperature Controller is switched to full cold settings. I am in need of direction. Weather that be through expert advice, the OEM service manual "these customers would more than likely buy the set for the car, it is a new one for their stable". I appreciate any help that i can get to resolve this issue for our patiently waiting customer.

Thank you in advance,

Bradley

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Thanks for your question Bradley...

Do you have a Factory Shop Manual for the Vehicle? Also - I can not pull up your Lincoln Land Account using your Name or Phone Number - what is your Customer Number? Your Customer Number should be the Phone Number on your first Receipt from Lincoln Land without the Area Code - let me know.

Bill -

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Thank you for the speedy response.

I am not in possession of any service manuals for this car other than what ProDemand gives me. Which is little to no information pertaining to the customer complaint.
As far as a login. I do not have one. This is my first interaction with Lincoln Land, as this seems to be the place experts reside.

Look forward to your response.

Bradley

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Hi Brad -

Refrigeration systems need to be diagnosed in a logical sequence with proper equipment. If the proper test equipment, manuals and knowledge are not available at your shop you should do your customer a favor and sublet that job out to a trusted a/c shop.

Having stated the above, what have you checked so far? What are the running system pressures of the Evaporator and the High Pressure Line? Another observation is your statement that when the control is switched to full cold setting no air seems to flow through the evaporator. I can tell you that just because you switched the control to full cold, it does NOT mean that the controls are responding or functioning correctly. You really need to begin by studying the correct FoMoCo shop manual. We have these available. Anyone at our office can arrange this for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

June 4, 2018

1972 Mark Questions....

Hi Bill -

I have a 1972 Lincoln Mark IV that stalls out at stop lights and won't restart. Carburetor size 4300-a 4-v engine size 460. Car has 136000 miles. I've had it for 6 years and I paid 3K. Also head light doors reopen after I've parked the car, 20 minutes later. PS Do you think it could be the hot idle compensator causing it to stall out?

Sincerely,

Vic

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Hi Vic-

I have no information on your car's history, condition or what you have checked so far. However your stalling condition can easily be checked and repaired usually by testing and/or performing all of the common tune up procedures and fuel delivery as well as checking the carburetor and its adjustments. The above suggestions should be a first step.

The common problem of the headlamp doors opening is almost always caused by a leak or a series of leaks on this system's vacuum circuit any where the vacuum is routed. A proper manual is necessary! Valuable diagnosis information as well as diagrams is shown in the factory manuals.

Sincerely,

Bill

1995 Town Car Brake Pedal Height Question

Bill -

I have a '95 Town Car that I bought in December 1996 from a dealer with 27000 miles on it, now 43000 miles after 22/23 years - well I spent most of my working life overseas and never really used it. It stays in the garage with a trickle charger on it. OK I have noticed that the brake pedal is not up where it should be there are no leaks detected and I read all about the master cylinder leaking. The brake fluid cup is 1/2 empty. When the brakes are applied the car stops and the pedal travels about 1/2 way down or so it seems. I spoke to the local Lincoln dealer and he suggested it could be the booster. I said I would drop by some day for him to check. I have not seen anything on the online forums about a defective booster for this problem. Do you have any suggestions? It's been in a heated garage all its life and never saw a midwest winter.

If this has been answered many times over I apologize.

Regards,

Raymond

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Hello Raymond -

A vehicle that sits idle for a long period of time can develop any number of problems in any atmosphere. Your brake problem could also be among other things a master cylinder that is "by-passing" internally due to deteriorated seals etc. Your complete braking system including lines and hoses needs to be examined and not guessed at by a competent technician.

Sincerely,

Bill

1972 Mark ATC Box Questions

Hello Bill!

I'm writing from middle Europe, please excuse me for my English.

My heating system works like it won't accept the signal from the temperature lever. Always heat.

I took out the ATC box and did the test step by step which is in the factory service manual. It passes every single step, except were I test the amplifier and transducer. (the transducer stand alone test is passed too). I attached the page for better understanding. I examined the amplifier panel. All the resistors are ok, the adjustable resistor ok too. So in my opinion is that one of the transistors is misbehaving or destroyed. But because there is no identification number on them, it seems a dead end for me. Can you help me out on this? What kind of transistors are they, and is there any replacement transistor for them?

Best Regards,

Attila
Hungary

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Hi Attila -

If your ATC box is in good order you will need to perform the other tests shown in the manual on other components in the system. For instance if the "sensor string" has an open circuit or the system has a loss of vacuum, the ATC defaults to full heat on most models.

If the ATC box is in fact faulty we can test and overhaul this item for you as this service is a common repair item for us. We do have replacement amplifiers for the boxes in the 66-77 Lincolns and Marks. But again, we can offer you the rebuild service if needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

1963 Sedan Engine Won't Stop When Key Is Turned Off

Hi Bill,

I have 1963 Continental. The problem is that every now and then engine won't stop from the key. I did check from the ignition coil and it has 12 volts on it. Not the 6 volts as normally running. Schematic shows that 12 volts come to ignition coil at starting from the starter relay. I have a shop manual but it shows that the starter relay is located under the fusebox, but mine is in the engine bay. Is the connection different in 63 than the earlier models?

Thanks,

Tomi

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Hello Tomi -

The 12v is sent to the coil from the starter relay only while the engine is cranking in the "start" position of the ignition switch. After the engine starts and the ignition switch is released to the "run" position reduced voltage to the coil resumes from the ignition switch.

Your problem sounds like a faulty starter relay that is intermittently shorted internally. To check this theory unplug the wire at the relay that runs to the coil during the next no shut off event. If the engine then shuts off the starter relay will need a replacement. If the engine continues to run you will need to trace the ignition circuit for a possible short or intrusion from another circuit somewhere.

Sincerely,

Bill