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November 30, 2017

1968 SEDAN NEW OWNER AUDIO SYSTEM QUESTIONS

Hello Bill,

Just picked up a 1968 4 Door Sedan from Portland, Oregon. This car only has 27K original miles, very nice find indeed. It has a AM radio stock, and my buddy found a AM-FM rebuilt radio, very nice shape. It also has the optional Amplifier box. We are not sure where this Amplifier mounted-I guess under the dash within reach to turn both knobs. Looks like it should have some sort of bracket to mount under the dash. There are 2 small holes on the underside of the Amplifier and faint outlines of a bracket that used to be there. I do not see this Amplifier anywhere in the 68 brochure I have. Looked at dozens of cars on the web, but none have this option. I have photos of both the radio & amplifier with corresponding wiring if needed.

Thanks,

Blake

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Greetings Blake -

What you have sounds like the ( available at that time ) FM Multiplex adapter option the converts your FM radio section to a stereo sound FM system. It also adds additional left and right as well as front and rear speakers. The system was made by the Bendix Corp. and had a high quality warm sound when new and in good working condition.

The adapter mounted on the carpet at the transmission hump with the use of a special bracket set up.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 28, 2017

1973 Mark New Owner Questions

Hi Bill -

I bought a Mark IV Continental last week, but it broke down on the journey home, after 100 miles. It was running very well, for around 80 miles, but then, after a coffee break at motorway services (I am in the UK by the way) it started misfiring slightly. This increased over the next few miles, and it also started backfiring too, then it eventually lost power. The engine doesn't smoke, but what with me only having just bought the car, I have no history of how well it ran, except for the previous owners comments. The previous owner said "It has had a new coil, rotor, cap, condenser, points, plugs and leads and I've set dwell and timing carefully." - and they do all indeed look new. Also, he recently restored the fuel system, as the tank has an internal rust problem, so he sealed it, and replaced the fuel lines, filter and cleaned the carb. I was wondering if your knowledge could shed some light on possible causes of the failure. I did fuel up with regular unleaded at the start of the journey (I was told the Mark IV can accept unleaded), and since the breakdown, I have tested for earthing/wiring issues, and found none. There also appears to be no problem with vacuum in the fuel tank. Tomorrow I intend to check spark and re-check the fuel pump and filter. One other thing - the fuel cap doesn't lock on this car, but I have seen a locking cap on eBay for "1970 Lincoln Continental California only cars except Mark III" - so would this also fit a '73 Mark IV? - Fuel is very expensive here in the UK ($6 per US Gallon) - and so I don't fancy anyone siphoning my car. Thanks in advance for any help you may be able to give me.

Mark

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Greetings Mark -

From your description I also would first suspect a fuel problem as you do. You could begin with a fuel pressure / flow test as per the Shop Manual or inspect the fuel filer and the pick up sock in the tank. The aged fuel pump can also be a candidate for failure on these vehicles. Another result of debris in the fuel tank and lines is that some "fine" rust has entered and contaminated the carburetor. Checking the above should find or eliminate a fuel issue.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 15, 2017

1974 Mark - No Power At Fuse Box

Hello Bill -

Yours is a wonderful site. I have learned so much just from reading here. Otherwise, I might have 100 more questions. One thing I have learned here is how important an accurate schematic is. I have seen a couple and so many wire colors and paths were wrong that you don't know how much may be correct. So I wanted to know how much is the wiring schematic for a 1974 Mark IV.

But I was hoping you could get me out of a rut by telling me why the clips on my fuse box powered by the large black wire with green dots don't have voltage. They are not switched (I don't think) because there is no heavy black wire in the ignition switch. I pulled off all the tape in the factory harness back to the battery looking for a junction for it but it was not there either, only the heavy black wire with orange stripe which sprouted 4 yellow wires that fed two relays on the firewall and went into the connectors to the interior. The big black wire seemed to go to the blower motor resistor coil rack on the ATC system. Which makes no sense to me. I'm about to jump my fuse box to a heavy switched wire out of aggravation, but wanted to hear from you first.

I would appreciate your help,

Thank you ,

John

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Hi John -

Wiring problems sure can be frustrating at times. No one can hazard a decent guess as to why you have no power at any connection at the fuse box without some meaningful diagnosis. The first test that I always make when following an electrical power path is to verify that my test light is working properly at the vehicles battery. Testing equipment can fail. Any testing such as you are describing should also be performed ( as you agree ) with the correct wiring diagram at your side. Circuit testing with the use of this diagram would also save you needing to unwrap the factory wiring harness.

A specific Wiring Diagram is needed so that you can diagnose the issues in proper sequence. We are able to supply you with most repair parts needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 6, 2017

1964 Continental Wheel Balancing Questions

Hello Bill -

I have a 1964 Lincoln Continental convertible with standard 15-inch wheels. I am getting a vibration at about 30 miles an hour that disappears at higher speeds. I am thinking that this is a wheel balancing issue, as all the front end parts are in good condition. Can I get a dynamic wheel balance using weights only on the inside of the rim? If not, how can I get a good wheel balance where the weights don't show on the outside?

Thanks,

Elaine

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Greetings Elaine -

Many shops are able to balance the wheels with the weights on the inside of the wheel. The key is to visit a good known shop with up to date modern well kept equipment and discuss this with the manager. You can also ask them to record the out of balance information that your wheels had before their weights were added. A little bit of shopping should produce the results that you are after.

Sincerely,

Bill