" /> Bill's Corner: August 2017 Archives

« July 2017 | Main | September 2017 »

August 30, 2017

1975 Mark IV Wire Repair

Bill -

Good afternoon, I was checking the electric choke wire for the carb (someone had cut it off) so I pulled the tape off all the wires in that area. I found that the ground wire from the alternator to splice S-202 (according to my wiring diagrams), which splits the alt wire into four, had been broken very close to the splice. Naturally, someone had to skip doing it right and just twisted a new piece in as well as they could, which wasn't much. Needless to say, there isn't much left to connect to. My question is, where may I find a S-202 (shaped like a cylinder) or is there some other proper fix? Couldn't find anything specific on Google. Thank you.

Jim

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Jim -

Repairs such as you describe are usually simply improvised on scene by an automotive electrical technician with the proper use of a solder gun, solder, heat shrink if needed and then followed up with a professional wrap with electrical tape. These materials are available at local electrical suppliers along with any appropriate sleeve connectors etc. that are needed. FoMoCo never offered any repair instructions for any specific splices unless that splice or any other connectors became a common problem and required redesigning.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 22, 2017

1971 Mark III Brake Issues

Bill,

My Mark III had brake service performed by the previous owners at 90,000 miles, including rear wheel cylinders, shoes and hardware, front calipers, pads and hoses replaced. The system performed well and after I took delivery had it inspected for safety and everything checked out OK. At about 91K miles, it began demonstrating the tell-tale symptoms of a bad master cylinder: a slowly sinking pedal at stop signs and red lights. There was a little leakage behind the master cylinder onto the booster, and the old master cylinder looked a little too pitted inside to rebuild, so I replaced both. The booster holds vacuum and the push-rod is properly adjusted to a new master cylinder. However after bench bleeding the master cylinder and then using the two-man system to bleed the rest of the system on the car, I get a very soft pedal. It easily goes almost to the floor before the brakes "grab". This is when the engine is running with vacuum to the booster. The pedal is very hard when the engine if off. I've tried three master cylinders so far, at first assuming a bad master out of the box. I've tried bench bleeding using the bleeder tube system and the plugged outlet ports system until there's no more air or I'm not able to depress the piston further. Even though nothing else has changed on the brake system, I've checked all four wheels, the shoes are still adjusted to the drums and I find no loss of fluid anyplace. I haven't touched the Sure Track system or pressure differential valve except to temporarily disconnect the brake lines between it and the master cylinder to make room for the booster work. The common behavior I notice each time is that when I fill the reservoirs on the bench, fluid eventually drips only from the primary outlet port, never from the secondary port. I've read that each port should drip by gravity alone, and that some even bleed a car by gravity. Could this be a problem with multiple master cylinders, or is gravity bleeding from both ports not necessary here? Am I missing an adjustment someplace else? Is there a particular challenge getting all the air out of the system on this particular car? I want to be thorough and consider everything before I break down and tow it in.

Bradley

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Bradley -

If all of the brake work, fluid bleeding and adjustments were performed properly as you describe, your sinking pedal does sound strongly like a classic by-passing master cylinder. Since we are not the supplier or the installers of your rebuilt master cylinders, I cannot comment on their quality.

However, since you are a local customer of Lincoln Land it may be a good idea for you to make an appointment with our service dept. for a professional on scene diagnosis. Doing this could save you further disappointment in the future.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 21, 2017

1978 Mark V Diamond Jubilee Dash Lights

Hey Bill -

I recently bought a 1978 Lincoln Mark V Diamond Jubilee Edition and there seems to be an issue with the lights. All exterior lights work and most of the interior except the instrument cluster. Not sure if there is a fuse for those lights specifically... I did change a fuse that said "inst. cluster" but it didn't seem to do anything besides stop my clock. All the warning lights work as well as the miles-to-empty gauge. So all the lights work besides the instrument cluster which wont light... Id appreciate any advice you can give me.

Thanks - Rocco

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Rocco -

Nice cars those Marks. The Mark V is becoming quite popular among collectors. I can help you get started on diagnosis by explaining how the Instrument lighting is powered. The power for these lights does go through a small fuse in the fuse panel but this power originates at the instrument light dimmer that is integral with the headlamp switch. Possibilities for your issue are that the dimmer is merely rotated to the Off position or that the switch and rheostat itself is faulty. The above are only suggestions based on your information that must be verified with diagnosis. We can offer to test and repair your switch if necessary if you are unable to.

For DIY diagnosis you will require the Shop Manual, wiring diagram and a 12v test light. We usually have manuals and diagrams available . Trying to repair the electrical without some meaningful diagnosis usually results in frustration along with wasted time and parts.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 16, 2017

79 Stalls Out - Carb Issues

Hi Bill,

Josh here. I have a 79 Lincoln Continental and well, she idles really high. And I'm not sure how to tone it down, I've adjusted the carb idle screw. It wont turn anymore without the engine shutting off. It likes to stall out quite a bit. I'm guessing because of the same issue? When I shut off the key after running into town and she is all warmed up to op temp. She sputters for a few seconds and sometimes even about 15. Shakes the whole car then finally makes a sound like air out of a tire. Before shutting off. I was told that the timing is too advanced, I've been told to get a new carb. And I've been told to adjust the carb more. (Which I cannot) any help would be great. She will be going to a shop this Friday. It's 8/14/17

Sincerely,

Josh

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Greetings Joshua -

From your description, carburetor adjustment or a worn out binding carburetor does indeed seem to be your "too fast of an idle" problem. The adjustments for the various carburetors that were used in 1979 are clearly shown along with all of the other carburetor functions in the Factory Shop manual which you need to perform the adjustments. Unfortunately I cannot observe the state of adjustment, condition of your carburetor or even see if it is the original carb. with all of the original controls installed and functioning correctly. If you for any reason are unable to follow the adjustment procedures in the correct shop manual, someone local in your area with carburetor experience will need to do this for you. If we can be of further help with any parts for this repair please contact us again at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill