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May 12, 2016

1963 Continental Sloppy Steering

Hi Bill -

Thank you again in advance for all your help with answering our classic Lincoln mechanical questions. I recently (personally) replaced my steering my box in the '63 Sedan. The reason being was that the steering was extremely sloppy when turning to the right in a gentle curve at highway speeds. I replaced the 3 insulators as well. Everything is lined up and mounting bolts torqued down. My test drives show the steering to be extremely sloppy in the neutral position. But gentle curves to right or left are just fine. Further eval now shows that the steering box will shift or "twist" when starting to turn the wheels from neutral to right or left and then shift/twist again when achieving full turn at the end points. I described to my local mechanic who asked if the "frame is shifting where the gear is mounted." My car was an Arizona car and has essentially no rust. Any suggestions as to the cause? I do have an appointment wit h my mechanic next week. Thank you again for all your help.

Phil

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Hello Phil -

The appointment with your mechanic is a good idea. He will be in the best position to check the complete steering and suspension up close for you. Did you have all of the steering linkage examined before embarking on the steering box replacement? Any steering and suspension component can be a candidate for the cause of poor steering and excess play. We have in stock and sell all of the necessary parts for the steering on the sixties Lincolns as well as rubber bushings and suspension springs. Your mechanic should be able to make a list of any worn out parts that you need to replace in order to correct your issues. We can then give you a price and availability as well as speedy shipping service with the correct new parts.

Many early sixties Lincoln owners are opting to replace the rubber steering box mounts with metal ones because of the excess movement of the rubber. Be sure to have your mechanic inspect the "Rag Joint" that is located immediately above the steering box as well as the rebuilt box itself (even if it is rebuilt) in case of possible faulty workmanship. After the worn parts are replaced if any worn parts are identified, be sure to have an alignment expert do a complete proper steering alignment as per the shop manual specifications.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 10, 2016

1973 Mark IV Power Window & Horn Questions

Hello Bill -

I recently bought a '73 Mark IV. None of the power windows work, and as far as I can tell I am not getting any power to the fuse. Is the relay before or after the fuse? Can a bad relay cause this? Also my horn does not work. I've taken the steering wheel off, and it seems like I am not getting any power to the steering wheel through the spring loaded contacts between the column and steering wheel. Do you have any tips?

Regards,

Jon

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Greetings Jon -

The power window safety relay is before the p/w circuit breaker. That breaker is located at position f10 in the fuse panel according to my wiring diagram. A faulty power window safety relay can of course cause all of the power windows not to work.

The horn circuit is supplied power via breaker f12in the fuse panel using a yellow wire with a blue dot tracer according to the wiring diagram. Vehicles with the Speed Control option also employ a horn relay in the circuit.

Your question " Do you have any tips" has one important answer from Lincoln Land. Performing any diagnosis on these circuits usually requires the use of the correct factory wiring diagrams and some electrical knowledge in order to understand the circuitry and locate most of the problems in a logical sequence. The best tool in your tool box could be the correct Wiring Diagram for your car. If you have recently purchased the Mark IV in this condition also be on the lookout for possible wiring misconnects and incorrect improvising from a previous owner. We wish you a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 9, 2016

1969 Mark III AC Question & Follow Up....

Hello Bill,

Hoping to get your expert advice again. I've just finished assembling the AC system which was completely re-built. Long story short, I charged it up and cold air out of registers, however here is the problem, the system only works on LOW. When I switch to DEICE or DEFOG, the blower does not turn on, and when I switch to HIGH, the blower does not turn on. If I jiggle the switch slightly in the HIGH position, I get the blower motor to turn on momentarily. I have performed every function test (having taken the control head out of the dash and passed all continuity tests), tested the ACC Box (passed every test), and tested servo using quick test in the ACC diagnosis book. The high range relay seems to be working properly. I hear the "click" when I switch to HIGH. I'm at a crossroads. My gut is telling me that it's just a bad blower switch but why would it have checked out during the continuity tests and would it prevent the DEFOG and DEICE functions from working as well? It seems odd to fail in 3 of the 4 positions, I would expect it to fail in all 4 positions; but then again, anything is possible. Any insight is greatly appreciated.

Much obliged,

Dan

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Hi Dan -

That Automatic Climate Control in your Mark III is one of the nicest operating systems ever. It was far ahead of others during the years of their production. They can be a nightmare to diagnose and repair when they fail though due to the lack of knowledge and parts today.

From your description you have done some meaningful diagnosis work and if your work was translated correctly some fault should have shown up. The one item that jumps out as a red flag when I read your email is your High Range relay test. You indicate that it seems to be working o/k because you hear it click when High, Defog or De-ice is selected. When you hear that click inside of that relay it only indicates that the selector has sent power to that relay and its coil and that the coil has been properly activated to close the contacts. At this point you do not know if power is available from the battery to the relay contact or if that power was sent through the contact points to the High Range blower circuit. I would advise checking that relay completely using your wiring diagram and a 12v test light and letting us know what you find out. That relay is a popular fail item that we can rebuild or replace for you if necessary. If the relay proves to be absolutely working correctly and sends power out as designed we will go to the next step. Have you ever had this system working or is this vehicle a recent purchase with a non operative HVAC.

Sincerely.

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thanks for your response. I did check the terminals on the relay but only to see if any voltage on any one terminal was present. I think there was voltage at 2 out of three terminals with any one of the blower switch positions. I'm not sure if this is the way it's supposed to be but I suppose I need to actually check it against a wiring diagram.

As for the system ever working, at one point, the blower kicked on for every setting. Recently, I lost Defog and DeIce. Last year before I parked for the winter, HIGH stopped working. But like I say, if I can find the sweet spot in the switch, HIGH will work.

At this point though, the system works as it should on LOW- blower speed starts out high and reduces as the temperature comes down in the car. If I raise the temperature the registers shut off and air diverts to the floor vents (I assume this is normal). If I lower the temp again, I get air out of registers until it reaches the set point at which point it goes back to floor vents, so on and so forth.

I will update once I've performed an actual test on the relay but I think I'm narrowed down to either that or the switch itself. Is the relay utilized on DEFOG and DEICE?

Dan

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Dan -

In your recent email you state " I THINK there was voltage at two out of three of the relay terminals". This suggests that you are not sure of your testing. If you are in fact not sure, your diagnosis does not help me. If you do indeed have voltage at only two out of the three wires at the range relay when on the High, Defog and Deice setting, that relay is faulty. There should be power at one wire at all times and when the relay coil is powered up from a second wire the contacts close to send power to the third wire. If you are unsure, we can offer to test it for you if it is mailed to our office.

As for the control head being faulty, this of course is a possibility but you have stated in you first email that all of the tests that you performed as per the shop manual have proven that the control head, the acc box and the power servo are all o/k. If that is true I would want to be absolutely certain that the Range Relay was in good working order before guessing and replacing any other expensive components or tracing the wiring for a possible problem. If however during any Control Switch testing you needed to move the lever slightly off from its detent center setting as you indicate to hunt for a so called " sweet spot" in High or any other setting in order to "pass" the test for continuity, the switch has failed. The continuity tests must be accurate and definite in all settings in order to pass the switch. We are able to test this switch for you also if you wish.

George mentioned to me that you have all of the shop manuals. The correct FoMoCo manuals will have the wiring diagram shown in the HVAC section. The interior and operation of the range relay is also shown. The range relay should be activated in High, De-fog and De-ice by the main control switch. Good luck with the repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 2, 2016

1986 Town Car - New Owner Vacuum Line Questions.....

Hi Bill -

I was just given a 1986 Town Car. It had a leaking heater core so I decided to replace it myself to save a few bucks.

All went well except for one minor problem. I have one small vacuum line under the dash I do not know where it was connected. I have the four other vacuum lines labeled and reconnected to what I refer to as vacuum actuators on the plenum. This fifth line I do not recall seeing at removal and I'm not sure where it goes. Any idea?

I'm not well versed in auto repair so please keep it simple ;)

Thanks in advance.

Joe

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Joe -

If you could forward some photos - we may be able to help.

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thank you for your fast response and offer of help.

I've sent along some pics. The color coding on this particular vacuum line is black and white. It has a male grommet hole pin taped midway up the line to clip into a support hole. While once again searching for a connect point and taking pics I also found a blue electrical connection. Pic included also. I'm wondering if maybe it's an extra included in the wiring harness for a feature I don't have. Can't find anything to plug it into. I marked all the connections I took apart .... at least I can't remember taking apart any connections without marking them thinking its foolproof reassembly. I should know better than to think that ;)

The electrical connection is near the passenger side quarter panel area.

Joe -

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Joe -

From your photos the vacuum hose in question is black with a white stripe. Ford uses that color hose for the HVAC Recirculating Door Vacuum motor. The recirculating assembly is located at the right side cowl area somewhat near the glove box area under the dash and up to the right. Locate that vacuum motor and plug the vacuum hose in to the nipple. If there already is a hose in at that location, that hose could possibly be plugged into the wrong vacuum motor.

Your photo of the blue electrical connector reveals no information to me. If you did disconnect it from somewhere you should remember because it appears to have the usual locking feature that needs to be released before it can be pulled and disconnected.

After you find the location for the vacuum hose you could operate the ac/heat system and check the operation to determine if that blue connector is part of the operation or not. For further HVAC vacuum and electrical information you will need to have and read the vacuum and wiring diagrams. We would have these available for you if necessary.

Sincerely,

Bill