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March 25, 2016

1973 Mark IV Stalling On Hills

Hi Bill,

My 1973 Lincoln Mark IV sometimes stalls on hills. It will start right back up when on level ground. I have an electric fuel pump now, because I have gone thru 3 mechanical pumps. But I still have the problem. It can sometimes drive up hill, but struggles to start when facing up hill. No problems going downhill. Any assistance and ideas would be appreciated. Thank you.

Ray

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Hello Ray -

From your description your issue sure sounds like a fuel starvation problem. The only thing that can change on an incline is the fuel in the carburetor bowl or the fuel tank. A hill should not affect the ignition therefore I would investigate the fuel tank and carburetor for starters. One scenario could be that the fuel pick up assembly in the tank could be corroded and can only draw in fuel when the tank is quite full. Was the fuel tank fuel pick up ever inspected? Filling the fuel tank and driving uphill would be the easiest fuel test. If it does not stall driving uphill with a full tank, keep driving then car as you normally do until the engine begins to stall again and then add only a gallon or two of fuel to find out if it is fine again. If it is fine again you will need to inspect the fuel "sending unit " and pick up tube. At the same time the fuel hoses and lines could be inspected also. I am assuming that your fuel pump (after three or four of them) and the fuel filter are both ok. If the fuel system is ok at that point and the engine still stalls with a full tank of gas then the carburetor floats could be set too low and shutting off the fuel inlet valves too soon thus causing the carburetor to starve for fuel when driving up hill. By the way, how did the heater core work out for that you purchased from us in 2010?

Sincerely,

Bill

March 22, 2016

1967 Continental Convertible Heat & Rear Window Questions

Bill -

I am currently working on a '67 Convertible and am having trouble diagnosing why the heat isn't working properly. My shop manual also doesn't explain troubleshooting as well as it most likely should. Is this typically a thermostat problem?

Question # 2

The rear, driver side, window is currently in the down position and I can't get it up again. I am not sure if this is a switch problem, or if the motor is bad, ... Because they are automatic drop-down windows (for the convertible top) I figured this issue is more of a "can of worms" and I should seek professional help.. Thoughts???

Sincerely,

Thomas

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Thomas -

Your heating issue can certainly be a simple engine thermostat problem or a heater core problem, but on a sophisticated Lincoln system there is nothing that is typical. Therefore proper diagnosis is usually necessary as you are suggesting. Diagnostic charts are shown in the factory shop manuals but there are three systems. For us to direct you to the correct page for your system we will need to know if your Lincoln is equipped with a Heater only system, a Manual ac/heat system or an Automatic Temperature Control system.

The rear window circuits in the 67 convertible can be complicated and not for the timid. George wanted me to ask you if you have the special Convertible Rear Power Window diagnostic guide on hand? If you can give us the information regarding the above two questions as well as tell us what Does work properly on your heater or a/c system we will be able to proceed to help you much further.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

I am extremely sorry about the late response. Thank you so much for your last email. Since that, I have replaced the thermostat and flush the heater core. System seemed to be pretty clean... I am now wondering could it be the heater check valve? .. The fan works wonderfully! And this car is equipped only with a heating system. I checked all the hoses and they seem to be in good shape too...

Thomas

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Hi Thomas -

Yes, the heater water valve at the rear of the engine can be a problem if it is defective and seized shut or if it is not receiving vacuum from the controls. Another unit under the hood that needs vacuum to provide heater operation is the vacuum motor for the Blend Door. It operates on varied vacuum from the temperature control selector. The correct Lincoln shop manual has a section that explains the various operations and even offers a diagnosis guide. That section in the 1967 Lincoln service manual starts on page 16-1. Do you have that shop manual?

Bill

March 21, 2016

1969 Mark III High Beam Issues

I have removed the 4 amp fuse that is to kill the high beams with no result. I have pulled the relay that is bolted to the base of the steering column and checked it on the bench - OK. I reassembled everything and the high beams functioned properly. After a few days, high beams stuck on again. Dash indicator light is on when high beams are on. Floor dimmer switch seems OK, but both high and low beam wires are hot all the time when this problem occurs. I am tempted to change the relay on the steering column, but thought maybe you could help me first. Thanks in advance for considering this.

Forgot to tell you my car has the auto dim feature, though I guess the 4 amp fuse I mentioned is only on the auto dim cars.

Thanks.

K C

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Greetings -

From your description I would start with the 4 amp fuse removed and the relay unplugged and then proceed to diagnose the circuit as a Non auto dim system. Your dimmer switch or relay could be faulty and intermittent. The manual system dimmer switch differs from the auto dim switch. One of the electrical plugs at the relay will plug into a Manual type dimmer switch for test purposes. If you do not have a manual system dimmer switch available for testing, the wires at this plug can be jumped to test the circuit. A wiring diagram for both the auto dim and manual dim is necessary to understand how the system works and the correct wires to jump. Do you have these wiring diagrams.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 18, 2016

1967 Continental Brake Concerns....

Hi Bill -

Great website! I recently had the rear brakes in my car stop working right after a local mechanic jacked up the back fairly high to see if there was a hole in the gas tank. Ever since then the back compartment of the master cylinder emptied out and the pedal goes to the floor. the front brakes still work fine. I found a few random vacuum hoses that were not connected, but I'm not sure they ever where or if I connected them properly. when I filled the brake fluid back up, it just dumps out as I pump the brakes.

Thanks,

Jon

PS - I am located in Northern NJ, where are you located?

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Greetings Jon -

Congratulations on your newly purchased Lincoln. We look forward to supplying you with any of your repair parts needs.

As I cannot accurately tell from here what is wrong with your brakes front or rear, I can give you some very important information for diagnosing purposes. You have indicated that the rear reservoir of the master cylinder is loosing brake fluid rapidly and that you have lost the rear brake function as a result. That larger rear portion is for the front disc brakes and not the rear! A brake fluid leak that large should easily be found in a line, pressure equalizer, a flexible hose, wheel cylinder, or at a caliper seal etc. If there is no visible external leak to be found, the fluid could be leaking out of the rear of the master brake cylinder and being drawn into the brake booster. If the rear section of the master cylinder is in fact operating the rear brakes and not the front, I suppose that someone could have some how attached the brake lines incorrectly. I have however never seen or heard of this scenario happening. I have no idea from where I am of the identity of the disconnected vacuum lines as you have described.

Given that good operating brakes are a very necessary as well as a safety item and if you are not comfortable with performing the proper repairs as needed I would advise you to have the car taken to a trusted local brake shop for an on scene expert assessment. Please let us know what you find out.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 14, 2016

1987 Continental Can Not Get Tires Balanced

Hello Bill-

I have my Fathers 1987 Continental which he bought new. After his passing I decided to freshen things up. I have put new ball joints, tie rods, control arm bushings, rack and pinion steering assembly, motor mounts, Trans mount, brakes and rotors, wheel bearings. The list goes on and on. The issue is with all this being done and after buying new tires I CANNOT GET THE TIRES BALANCED. been to five tire shops no success. Wheels are fine at one point the tires were in balanced but I lost a wheel weight now back to square one. Any ideas NEED HELP.

Dane

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Hello Dane -

If you truly believe that your issue was caused by a thrown wheel weight then correcting the unbalance obviously lies with balancing. If five shops cannot balance the wheel you should seek out a specialty alignment and frame shop in your locality. Discuss the matter with them and the possibilities. In some instances some shops can spin the wheel or wheels while they are mounted on the vehicle. Someone will need to work with you on this to correct this issue.

Sincerely,

Bill

1969 Mark III Gauge Issues

Hello Bill,

You have answered questions for me before and I greatly appreciate your help and advice. I have a 1969 Mark lll with 43,000 miles on it. I have the original window sticker, warranty card and upholstery card. It's all original. My question today is, my gauges. My gas gauge and temperature reads erratically. Sometimes the fuel will read correctly but will go "low' very soon after car is running. I did have the sending unit rebuilt a few years ago. The temp gauge runs a little high. Any suggestions?

Thanks again,

Marv

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Greetings Marv -

The diagnosing of the gauge circuits for your Mark is shown at length in your shop manual. If my information is correct you have already purchased this manual from us at Lincoln Land. If you cannot do the diagnosis as shown in the manual to pinpoint the issues I can give you a list of possibilities. The engine temp., oil pressure and fuel gauge circuits all receive power and operate from a unit known as the Instrument Voltage Regulator (IVR). They are known to go faulty if all gauges seem erratic or out of specification. The other gauges separately could have faulty sending units, bad dash units or bad connections at any location etc. The temp. gauge could be reading a little high because the engine coolant temperature is actually a little high. The possibility of a combination of the above could also exist. Again, the gauge diagnosis is well explained in the shop manual. Guessing and changing parts without some diagnosis can be expensive and frustrating. Have you checked your shop manual for that section? Let us know what you find out.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 10, 2016

1964 Continental Scraping On Steep Pitch

Hi Bill,

I am having an issue with my car scraping the bottom when I pull into my new building garage. The entrance has a pretty steep pitch and it scrapes on the passenger side right in the middle of the car. Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Vinnie

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Greetings Vinnie -

It certainly is a good idea on your part to look in to those kinds of noises because they can be damaging over a period of time if they are not identified and addressed. If traffic at this entrance is not too heavy you could have an assistant check under the car at the point of rubbing impact to pinpoint that low spot on the car. Depending what is discovered, some possible causes to consider are an exhaust pipe that is formed incorrectly and subsequently riding too low, riding height of the car too low ( because of weak springs ) or undersized tires. Have you tried to approach the entrance from a different angle if possible? If the vehicle is within factory specifications regarding the above clearances then I would be thinking that this entrance way may be built to uncomfortable driving clearances and short wheel base vehicles. These Lincolns are not abnormally low for city driving or we would receive many more complaints of this nature. Let us know what you find out.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 7, 2016

1988 Town Car Accumulating Water Behind Filler Door

Bill -

Probably an unusual question, but here goes. With my Town Car I have an accumulation of water on rainy days inside the gas tank opening. There's a cavity here that doesn't appear to drain and will pool up a bit. Should there be a drain? I felt around inside and didn't discover anything obvious. Thanks!

Dave

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Dave -

We discovered for you that two of our parts cars drained water out of the fuel filler "pocket" through a thin slot to the right of the filler cap. Perhaps yours is clogged. Check it out.

Sincerely,

Bill

1966 Continental Running Issues

Bill -

I have a 1966 Lincoln continental, has 81,000 original miles on the 462 big block. I replaced the carter Carb with a brand new Edelbrock. Ive redone the entire starting system, charging system and cooling system and most of the fuel system I.E. fuel pump rubber fuel lines and new fuel filter. The car runs and idles great it revs up and heats up with no problems. Then I put it in reverse and back out of the drive way, no issues, and then I put it into drive no issues, I drive down the block and it runs great, then all of the sudden it starts to sputter and dies. I open up the hood and take the air cleaner off and push on the throttle and no gas is getting to the carb. and it wont start again. if I poor gas into the carb it starts right up so ive narrowed down that it stalls due to lack of gas but im not sure why its not getting gas with a brand new pump, filter, Carb, and lines throughout the engine bay (Have not redone the metal gas lines i n the paneling) and ideas would help greatly! Thank you!

Tyler

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Hi Tyler -

From your information, it sounds like you have the issue narrowed down to a fuel delivery problem. If so you will need to do the fuel pressure and volume diagnosis on a hot engine as per the factory service manual. One possible failure may be the fuel pump push rod which must measure 4 and 13/16 "in length. It would need to be removed and accurately measured to be sure. Even a new fuel pump could prove faulty, or incorrect. A fuel test on a hot engine at the point of a stalling should help pinpoint the culprit. Always re-check your fuel filter as well when diagnosing fuel issues. Two other faults could be the fuel pick up in the tank and small perforations in the steel fuel line.

Sincerely,

Bill

1963 Continental Dash Lights

Hey Bill!

Thanks for all the help you provide to us Lincoln lovers! The lights for my gauges do not work (speedometer, clock, fuel, etc.). The turn signals still light up green though. Is there a switch I can try replacing or do I need to take a part the dash to change a bulb or something?

Thank you,

Matt

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Hello Matt -

If only your instrument dash lighting is affected ( the dash lights that are dimmed by rotating the headlamp switch knob ) the problem could be a bad inst. fuse or contact that is located in the fuse box or a faulty dimmer rheostat coil and contact at the headlamp switch. If only some of your h/l controlled dash lights are out then you may find burnt out bulbs at only these locations If you find that your outside park lamps and license light are also non functional the issue could be inside the headlamp switch body. When you diagnose this circuit you must be sure to be aware of all of the lights that are not working. A shop manual with the correct wiring diagram and some circuit testing electrical skills are usually required When you pinpoint the problem, we will be able to help you further with parts or by rebuilding your headlamp switch if necessary etc. Let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 2, 2016

1983 Mark VI Will Not Stay Running & Follow Up Reply

Hello Sir,

I have a 83 Lincoln Mark Vl it will start and run for a half hour or till hot I guess, then it just shuts down just as if you turn off the key, no spit or sputter, just stops running, then will not restart till it cools down, do you have any idea ?? I been trying to get this running right 10 years now, it is like new but will not stay running,I have changed about every thing, I mean every thing, under the hood, as well as a new fuel pump, just in case, I am at my wits end, Thank you so much for your time Sir.

Bill

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Hi Bill -

From the information that you have provided it sounds like one of the electronic ignition components is failing when the under hood temps reach their normal operating level. Did you replace any of these parts with new or used? Used or even good known used electronic parts can be unreliable. New parts and tune up technicians are very hard to find for these systems and that era of Lincoln is not in for service here at Lincoln Land very often these days. If you haven't already tried this, a good idea would be to go on line and search for a forum that is dedicated to these years of Lincolns. Your problem is not unique for these vehicles and I am sure that the correct forum will have some meaningful information on that subject for you as well as a parts source.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill -

Thank You so much for your time and help, yes I did change almost everything under the hood, from the brain, the computer, heck you name it I changed it,lol I would have just changed the engine, but know I would still have the trouble cause the engine runs great, I would still have the electronic trouble.

Once again Bill, Thank you for your time and trouble, and I will try to find a forum for old Lincolns. Have a great day.