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February 26, 2016

1961 Continental - Oil In Cooling System

Have discovered heavy oil contamination in cooling system, no visible coolant in oil, although oil level is low. Was there a common cause for this? I remember 292 Chevy in-line 6 having a similar issue, cause was crack in block between oil passage and coolant passage, not visible, in casting itself.

Thanks,

Ken

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Hi Ken -

We hate when that happens. An issue such as this always requires accurate diagnosis and I am sure that you already know that. To answer your question, we have no knowledge of a common point of failure on these 1961 Lincoln engines that would cause that to occur. We have seen the usual head gasket failure that many engines can develop and sometimes cause engine oil to enter the coolant passages but before diagnosing you need to be absolutely sure that the oil that you see in the coolant is actually engine oil. The radiator in a 1961 Lincoln commonly has two oil coolers built into the side tanks. These are a transmission oil cooler and a power steering oil cooler. A leak in any one of those coolers could contaminate the coolant. If you are quite certain that the oil in the coolant is indeed from the engine oil please call our office and ask for Erik. We would like to ask you some questions about that car in order to help you pinpoint that leak.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 23, 2016

1993 Town Car Alignment Question

Hello again Bill from Jimmy in Scotland referencing my 1993 Lincoln Town Car. My front wheel alignment is suspect and I need to know the correct spec.--toe in etc.--could you kindly provide the relevant details? As I appreciate the sterling service which you provide to us American car fanatics in this Country and speaking as a Scot to a fellow Scot, I would be pleased to offer you a dram or two if you ever find yourself in my neck of the woods (Monifieth near Dundee).

Kind regards JImmy

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Hi Jimmy -

Nice to hear from you again and thank you for the offer of a dram or two. We will email you the alignment specs for your 93 Lincoln Town Car from our manual. If you would like a copy of the complete manual for future repairs on that car we may be able to send you an electronic copy from our supplier. Thank you for your continued support.

Sincerely,

Bill

1963 Continental Running Issues

Hi Bill -

A couple days ago I started/drove my 63 and it started ran fine initially. As the engine warmed I heard a very, VERY quick and mild "single" miss (not a "backfire" - more of a very quick/mild "stutter"). Thought nothing of it. As I drove the car it ran fine but a couple more of these very, VERY quick/mild "single" misses. After I got home the car started to run very rough and the "missing/stumbling" became continuous and much worse to the point the engine would barely run at all. This is all in a span of about 15-20 minutes. I parked the car and ordered a new fuel filter from Lincoln Land as I thought it was either a dirty or even clogged fuel filter (as I had just filled the tank the drive a few days before - and the tank hadn't been filled that full in probably 10-15 years or more) - usually half tank was as much as I ever put in. So after the filter arrived I started the car and it as expected (and unfortunately) ran terrible again - would barely run at all. So I pulled the fuel line and ran it into a bottle and cranked the engine - seemed to have plenty of fuel "pumping" so I proceeded to change the filter (fuel filter I pulled off appeared to be fine as well - but only $10 so no worries). I then pulled the carb and checked everything - all looked fine. A very little bit of dirt in the "bowls" which I cleaned out as well as cleaned and blew everything else while I was in there. I've cleaned and rebuilt the carb myself a couple times so I'm pretty comfortable with it. Reassembled everything and still have the same result. Again, the thing that's so worrisome is that I went from a perfectly running engine to one that barely runs at all in like a 15-20 minute span. In closing - the entire top end of the engine was rebuilt last year (valve job) and on top of that everything while I was doing this was replaced/rebuilt/machined/etc (I mean everything! :) including rebuilt fuel pump and new "rod" and rebuilt distributor and new timing gear and chain) while the engine was all apart . Also ALL electrical tuneup items were replaced with new as well. Car has run beautifully until just now. Disclosure - Timing could only be done "manually" as the timing marks on the damper did not "line up" - guessing because of slippage that appears to be pretty common from what I've read. Wish I would have replaced /rebuilt this as well - probably just about the only thing NOT "done"! Could this damper slippage (if it happened again) cause any running/timing issues I'm experiencing if it did recently "slip" again??? Thinking timing - I loosened the distributor and rotated by hand to see if timing was the issue - with no real results/improvement - so I put it back to where timing was set. So in closing. Any thoughts/suggestions before I have to have the car towed to a mechanic? It's not drivable like this. So discouraged - especially after the HUGE amount of time and thousands of dollars I just spent last year. Thanks very, VERY much for your insight/opinions and time!!!

Robert

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Hi Robert -

We are sorry to hear of your experience. That must have been disappointing for you.
At first I was thinking that debris was possibly being pumped from the gas tank but your filter was clean and you were happy with the fuel flow during testing. Is it possible that the carburetor floats or float could be sinking because of a puncture. This of course will not allow the fuel to shut off properly at the needle and seat and will cause a rich mixture and a rough engine. The plugs could be inspected for the usual black carbon deposits that indicate a rich mixture. Another thought would be what are the chances of a bad tank of fuel?

The next item to consider is the basic tune up items. The points could have slipped their adjustment or the condenser could have failed (even if it is new). The inside of the distributor cap and rotor should also be inspected for moisture or possible cracks which would cause some random misfiring. Ignition coils are durable but also have been known to fail sometimes. I am assuming that all of the other extensive engine work that you describe was done correctly for you. After you explore some of the above suggestions, email us again with the results or if needed some further advice based on your findings.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 18, 2016

1979 Mark V ATC Question

First off, love your site! Saved so much time and money already and I've only had my car 2 months. One week after buying my Bill Blass Mark V someone hit the front end and Lincoln Land has been so helpful getting body parts. Though used, these parts look brand new!

Anyway, my problem is this: my heater, or ATC, only blows on defrost. The motor speed control works fine, and it heats up nicely, but I can't get it off the defrost setting, no matter where I set the control to. Where do I start looking for a situation like this?

Thanks,

Brad

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Hi Brad -

We are pleased that you are enjoying the Blog and your quality parts from Lincoln Land. We certainly appreciate your continued business.

Your ATC issue may be easy to diagnose and repair thanks to your information regarding the front end accident. That ATC system defaults to DEFROST and FULL HEAT with the loss of vacuum to the system. The vacuum could easily have been disconnected somewhere under the hood during the front end repair. The vacuum reservoir is located under the hood with the vacuum check valve. You may want to speak to your body shop and they may be able to easily locate and repair the disconnected parts etc. for you. If nothing is found, the vacuum circuit will need to be traced from the engine vacuum supply on the intake manifold to the system controls as per the shop manual. Let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 15, 2016

1971 Mark III Window Question & Update

Hi Bill,

Question about my passenger side front window Glass. I have a good motor but the Glass binds 1/2 down and gets stuck. With the motor removed I can manually lift the glass up and down. 1/2 way down the glass jams - huge pressure pushing the outside of the glass toward the outside of the door - this keeps the window from going down - the motor cannot pull it down or push it up till its 1/2 way up. I checked everything and adjusted the pipes in all directions to eliminate this jam. No adjustment helps. The upper half of travel is ok - the lower 1/2 jams. Regulator seems fine and everything is greased up. I loosened the guides that travel on the poles and that eliminated the issue but when tightened the window jams. No pole adjustment helps the problem. Bent poles ? Jammed regulator ? Please help me. Thanks !

John

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Hi John -

Some of these issues sure can be frustrating can't they? If you have the window motor removed and all of the other parts are still installed and intact that is an excellent way to check the glass operation manually. A bent guide tube could cause this problem as you suggest but of course I cannot see the inside of that door. Other possibilities could be a previously damaged door at the outside belt molding area or inner panel etc. I have also seen the guides that attach to the glass assembly incorrect or installed incorrectly on some vehicles. Another idea is to possibly install a shim or shims at the top of the guide tubes to overcome the binding without changing the glass alignment. Do you have the manual showing the installation parts and adjustments? Check these possibilities out and post back to us for further advice if needed.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill -

Thanks for the help on my MK III passenger side window glass. I fixed the problem by shimming the guides away from the glass using brass washers. Still not sure why this was necessary but it sure worked. Of course I had the glass completely out of adjustment all around but going back to the manual helped. Your "stay calm and carry on" type of direction really helped make a frustrating problem more of a step by step procedure. This is a science rather than an art right ? Thanks.

John

February 8, 2016

1965 Continental Brake Booster Questions

Hi Bill,

I have a '65 and the brake pedal is super spongy, I literally have to somewhat stand on the brakes to have the brakes engage. I believe this to be a brake booster issue, maybe master cylinder? My question is this, can I use an aftermarket power brake booster /master cylinder combo as long as the bolts line up? I'm having difficulties finding a '65 booster

Thanks.

Brandon


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Greetings Brandon -

We are not able to "safely" answer your main question because of the many combination booster/master cylinder possibilities that could be cobbled up. Some may work well while many may not. The good news is that your original brake booster is able to be rebuilt to the original specifications. We offer this service for our customers. Have you considered this option? We would be able to give you the specific details when you are ready. Please call our office and ask for George.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 5, 2016

1963 Continental Convertible Brake Light Issues

Hello Bill -

About a year ago I had the entire brake system rebuilt on my 63 Continental convertible by a local classic car shop. Brakes have worked beautifully ever since. Over the last couple months though the brake lights have stopped working. Bulbs have been changed/checked and ground to both is good. All other lights on the car work as they should (both front and rear - including rear lights and signals). The brake light switch at the master cylinder was replaced with a new one last year with the brake system rebuild. Connections to the "new" switch look good. I do have a shop manual - is there anything that I can try/check before having to take the car back to a mechanic? Thanks VERY MUCH in advance. We all sure do appreciate your time and knowledge (and willingness to share)!!!

Robert

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Greetings Robert -

To test the brake light circuit you should start at the brake light switch with a 12v test light. Test there for power at one of the wires. If you have power at one of the wires, plug that wire in to one of the switch pins and have an assistant step in the brake pedal so that you can test for "power out" at the other pin at the switch. If you had no power in either of the two wires you will need to read your shop manual wiring diagram to trace the power path to find and test the brake light fuse for power that feeds the b/l switch from the fuse box. If you do have 12v power on both wires at the switch when the brake pedal is pressed you will next need to test for power at the electrical connector at the lower steering column area to the turn signal switch. If there is power into this switch when the pedal is pressed, there should also be power returning on two other wires from this switch and then separately to each of the rear brake and signal light bulbs. You will find the correct wire colors to test in your factory shop manual. The above tests are easy to do but some electrical testing knowledge is required. From your description and without testing, it would appear to me that either your brake light switch or your turn signal switch is at fault. I am assuming of course that the wiring on your car is complete and intact. Proper testing as described above will pinpoint your problem. We will have the correct parts ready to ship to you Robert when you have located the culprit.

Sincerely,

Bill