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December 29, 2015

1977 Mark V Blower Control Issue

Dear Bill,

I just had a new heater core installed and oddly enough the blower motor started to quit. So a new heater core and blower motor were installed. The blower motor will not work in the HEAT position at all ever. Every thing else is fine. As you know when the car is cold and the selector if in the heat position with the fan on it doesn't come on until the car warms up a bit. The fan will not work in the HEAT position at all ever no matter how far you drive it. The rattle noise it use to make when the heat and blending door opened for floor heat still happens but no fan. My mechanic said there is something else that controls the fan when in that position. Naturally it is now my responsibility to find out what or where it is so he can test it. My suggestion was why not look somewhere between the beginning of the job and the end of the job you did and you will probably figure it out. Do you have any suggestion of what to look for. AS we all know no service station on earth has ever made a mistake (that they would admit to).

Yours,

Chuck

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Hello Chuck -

We have no record that you have recently purchased those heater parts, or any other parts from Lincoln land. The blog information that we offer is for our customers use as we cannot take the time to diagnose problems only to have the necessary parts and manuals purchased from another supplier.

I can tell you that the " blower cold engine delay" circuit is shown in the Shop Manual along with the wiring diagram. Any experienced shop that is intent on diagnosing and repairing ac/heat circuits should already be well aware of that fact. We do have the necessary shop manuals and other information available for purchase along with the repair parts for your Lincoln. We would be happy to then follow up with any assistance in diagnosing as well with any purchase.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 23, 2015

1991 Continental Starting Issues & Reply

I had my '91 Connie on a trickle charger for the past so many years as I use it so infrequently as a back-up vehicle. I take it for a spin around my neighborhood every 2 weeks or so. I noticed the battery was loosing strength (it would not turnover the engine but the interior light would dimly illuminate). Turns out the battery was new in 12/2005 ! I bought a new battery, installed it, opened the doors and the interior lights were very bright but as soon as I turned the ignition key everything went dark and the starter did not move. I disconnected the battery and re-connected it. Again, plenty of interior lights but as soon as I turned the key: nothing again. I did it a 3rd time and gave up for the evening. I'm baffled. Any suggestions Bill?

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Steve -

Your problem sounds like a Classic poor battery connection at or near the battery. Replacing a bad battery with a good new battery cannot cause this if the connections are clean and tight. If you can't find the bad contact someone will need to check the connections or starter circuit for you. If you believe that you have no problem at your connections etc., the battery could be returned to your supplier for a charge and load test. This is a rare issue but a battery (new or old) must be able to accept, store and deliver power as necessary. A new battery can be faulty.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Thanks Bill -

You first diagnosis was right on.

My positive cable to the battery post connection was not 100% tight.
It appears the positive terminal post on the new battery was a wee bit smaller than the positive terminal post on the old battery.

When I tightened the terminal clamp bolt it bottomed out but did not completely clamp onto the battery terminal post.

I thought if the cable clamp bolt could not be tightened any more then it must be 100% tight, boy was I wrong!

I added a washer, as a spacer, to the cable clamp bolt, tightened the clamp bolt and the car started right up.

I took it on its bi-weekly neighbor jaunt and everything is fine.
Again, thanks ! and Have a Merry Christmas and a prosperous New Year !

P. S.: I tossed and turned last night trying to figure out what I did that was wrong, I glad it's fixed as I do need a good nights sleep.

Regards,

Steve W.

1963 Continental Hard To Start & Reply

Hi Bill -

You are great! My car is extremely hard to start after sitting for one day-I live in California already. If not started in two days, it requires at least 4-5 cranks. I've had the car two years and have always had this problem. After driving, it starts immediately. The car only has 62,000 miles. Thanks do much.

Don

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Greetings Don -

A quick cold engine start in any weather is always a critical exercise for any engine therefore all systems must be up to par. You don't tell us what if anything was done to the engine in the two years that you have owned it to correct the situation so all of the following should be considered. Assuming the engine is in good shape, the ignition points, condenser, high tension wiring and plugs should be checked and adjusted or replaced if you have no record of their maintenance history. The choke operation when cold should be observed and corrected if necessary. Your battery must have a good charge and be able to operate a capable starter motor at a reasonably good speed. If the above items are proven to be in good working order a fuel delivery pressure and volume test will be in order as per the shop manual. Popular failures here are the fuel pump, fuel pump drive shaft, fuel filter along with all fuel lines, hoses and the in tank pick up tube. An engine with good compression and all of the above ( ignition, fuel, choke and cranking system) in good order has no excuse not to start. We have all of the necessary repair or tune up parts ready to ship to you as necessary. Good luck and let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Dear Bill -

Thanks for the suggestions. The previous owner had not driven the car for approx. 3 yrs and stated that he had always had difficulty starting it. He suggested that I "pump the accelerator approx. 10 times" but in reality, it requires approx. 30 "pumps". Can I pour gasoline down the carb "throat". The battery is new-Motorcraft but with constant cranking, eventually needs charging. I'm afraid of ruining the starterl.The previous owner pampered the car but I did not receive maintenance records, only restoration records-many, many thousands of dollars worth. The car only has 62K miles and runs magnificently-it is silent. Again, thank you and Happy Holidays.

Donald Pooler

December 22, 2015

1969 Mark III Power Steering Pump Question

Hi Bill,

I have a 69 Mark III and I was curious if I could change the power steering pump from crank driven to a conventional pulley style. The factory pump is leaking and it seems like it would be more convenient to just change the timing cover and switch the pump than to try and rebuild the factory one. I think that the only issue would be clearance but as I understand the 70 and 71 Mark III had a pulley driven pump. I have the engine out right now and it is at the machine shop being rebuilt.

Thank you,

Billy

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Hello Billy -

Yes, this power steering pump change that you describe has been done before by a few other owners and we have seen some of these conversions that have been in service. Most of our customers however opt to stay with and are quite content with the original 1969 system. At Lincoln Land, resealing the Eaton crank mounted power steering pumps is a popular service that we have been providing to Lincoln owners for many years. Although we have no instructions or any parts list available for your belt driven conversion, we would be willing to supply you with the necessary parts that you would need to do this job. If you decide to proceed, let us know what parts you require and we can price them out for you as a package.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 21, 2015

1979 Town Coupe Radio Issues

Hey Bill,

In my 1979 Lincoln Town Coupe I am having a problem with my FM radio. I have the digital Quadrasonic AM/FM 8 track radio. When I am listening to AM radio I get reception and it sounds good with no issue, but when I flip the switch to FM I get really quiet reception and I have to turn the volume to the max to hear just a little bit of sound. The reception is still clear on FM but just really quiet, and when the FM used to work before this broke the reception light in the upper right corner would be on but now it isn't anymore. Could it be the radio itself or maybe an antenna?? I really would like to keep the radio if there is a possible way to fix it.

Thank you in advance!

Sam

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Greetings Sam -

Older "high end" factory digital sound systems such as yours have electronics that are now well aged and becoming inoperative in several ways. Being a Lincoln lover myself I of course do understand your wish to have an original good working unit in your classic Lincoln. There are some electronic radio experts who possibly can repair your radio but because of the expense involved and limited success many owners are opting to upgrade theirs to modern circuits within the factory unit. The 8 track portion of your radio and tuning display however may make this procedure difficult. We at Lincoln Land are not radio experts in any form but we may have a radio unit such as yours that could be purchased and used for parts. With this in mind we tested six of these radios this morning and found that they all have separate issues. It is a good idea on your part to suspect a faulty antenna. Usually though it is the AM portion that fails when the antenna goes bad. To rule this out and to diagnose for a faulty antenna you could visit a good local radio shop and ask them to plug in a good known antenna. Let us know if you would like to purchase any of these radios for parts only.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 10, 2015

Questions On 1966 & 1967 Models... And A Compliment :)

Hello Bill -

I recently purchased a 67 Continental a few months ago with a very rough interior. A few days ago I found a 66 model with most of the interior in tact and matching my original color scheme. It's missing the motor and bumpers but everything else is in fair condition. The owner is asking very little for this car and I just wanted to make it a parts car but I'm unsure how comparable the parts are. By the way your staff did a great job helping me find a filler neck for my Lincoln at a fair price!

Thanks,

Frank

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Greetings Frank -

We are very happy that you are pleased with our parts and service.

There are many parts that are the same between the two years of Lincolns that you are discussing that can easily be used. There are also some that may not. Interior trim and seats could be usable for instance but have pattern characteristics that are dissimilar etc. A good idea might be for you to send us a sample list of the parts that you really need for the 67 and we will respond with a reply pertaining to these parts specifically. This way you can determine whether or not the 66 parts car will work out for your situation.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 7, 2015

1971 Mark III Questions

Hi Bill -

My 71 MK III only runs with coil jumped out to positive. Runs when trying to start but dies when key is returned to run position. Classic case of coil resistance wire failure most likely BUT Where is the Resistance wire on this car? I'm told its under the dash but cannot locate. Can you help me sir? Also looking for a radio guy to fix my AM / 8 Track. Thanks!

John

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Hi John -

If you want to locate the ignition resistor wire, it is located inside the harness under the dash and fed from the ignition switch as shown in the wiring diagram. Assuming that proper under hood tests were already done on the ignition feed to the coil from the resistor wire splice, you should then make tests to find out if the ignition switch is indeed sending 12 volts out to this resistor wire with the key in the run position. This necessary diagnosis is performed with the use of the correct wiring diagram and Shop Manual in order to "prove out" the ignition switch and avoid cutting into the main under dash harness if the resistor wire is not faulty. Do you have the correct wiring diagram and manual for your Mark??

We should have a good working AM/8 track tape unit in stock if you would like to replace your present unit.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill -

Just wanted to thank you and your organization. From my first Blog question (Thanks for the quick answer) you have helped this project move forward. I ordered the manuals and wiring diagrams and fixed a lot. Windows, Coil Resister Wire, Charging Circuit Fuel Pump and AMP Guage. You also helped me with direction on a carpet issue. Many thanks from a new customer !

John

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Hi John -

We welcome you to Lincoln Land. It was a pleasure to look after your Mark III needs.

Bill