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September 18, 2015

1968 Continental Climate Control Question

Hi Bill,

Greetings from Sydney.

So as we head into Summer here in Oz my air conditioning has decided to play up.

It's got climate control and when I dial the heat up everything works great. When I ask for cool air, there is nothing. Defog and de ice work great. I'm figuring its am electrics issue or a temp sensor issue... Any thoughts?

Yours, getting progressively hotter in Australia,

Ed

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Hello Ed -

The climate control system in your Lincoln is a very good but complex unit. The problems are located 99% of the time within the ACC control box which is located on the firewall above the headlamp dimmer foot switch. We offer an excellent rebuilding and tune up service of these control units along with a complete in car test procedure at Lincoln Land. Tuning up the box alone makes them operate as new. Of course, the possibility exists that one of the support components is faulty or that your vehicle has two or more issues. There are two ways for you to consider handling this. The system can be diagnosed as per the factory shop manual in order to eliminate faults in other support components. This however requires electrical skills and specific product knowledge and to many mechanics the testing is inconclusive or unsure. The other option is to send the ACC box to us after doing a visual inspection of the complete electrical and vacuum installation pertaining to the a/c while looking for a disconnected component or some previous incorrect repair etc. If you do decide that you will need to send the box to us from far away Australia please include a note referring to this blog question and ask that I be included in the results of the final tests. I will want to discuss what was found out during the repair inside the unit with our technician before it is returned to you.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Dear Bill -

Thank you so much for the quick and comprehensive reply - I really appreciate it!

I have a local guy who's been looking after the old girl for a few years and while they are not Lincoln specialists they're classic car guys. However they're also happy to put their hand up when it's not in their scope...so I'll give it to them to check out and if we don't make any progress I will get them to remove the unit and will send it over along with this note.

Thank you very much again.

Ed

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Bill -

Well we've had a local specialist look at it, but they can't repair it.... So I will be sending it back to you guys! Will make sure I include a note so that you are given a heads up.

Thanks,

Ed

1968 Continental Headlight Issues

Bill:

I appreciated your input on my prior questions regarding only being able to start the car with a shot of carb cleaner, the alternator light staying on, and the wiper blade orientation. I have since rectified these problems the rough start was a matter of cleaning the carb, the alternator light was by installing new alternator, and the blades were a matter of switching positions and getting new blade inserts. In any event my latest problem is hi beam cuts out after driving the car for 10+ minutes at night. Once the car has been running for at least 10 minutes and if I switch on the hi beams both hi and low beams stay on for 10-15 second and then they either flicker or turn completely off. If I I tap the foot switch to put lights back to the low beam everything is fine and when I switch back to hi beams it takes 10-15 seconds for the problem reoccur. The hi beam indicator light in the dash also flickers and or goes out. The car is "not" equipped with the auto headlight dimmer so in looking over the schematic I have eliminated the photo eye and amplifier unit in my search for the answer. Also as near as I can tell the floor mounted high/low foot switch is in good operation because it makes a clear on/off for the high beams. Therefore, I think it is either a bad ground somewhere or the headlamp dimmer power relay once the car gets warm and the relay heats up.

I am leaning more towards the relay especially since I've noted the 10-15 seconds it takes to have the problem occur. Also in the wiring schematic the wire colors are marked 498, 499, & 501 for the 3 prong part of the relay going to the 13A018 Assy. and 500 & 502 on the 2 prong part of the relay going to the headlamp dimmer switch. The problem is the schematic does not have a color key code for these # wires. I have attached a copy of the schematic for reference. So I'm looking for your opinion on the problem and to see if you know where the headlamp dimmer power relay is located on the car?

Sincerely,

Joe Pepe, Jr.

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Greetings Joe -

This is a common issue with many older vehicles. Firstly, if your Lincoln does NOT have the automatic headlamp dimmer option as you state the circuit will NOT have the power relay. If you have the original style sealed beams installed and not some high power draw beams this issue is usually caused by a fatigued circuit breaker within the headlamp switch. In this case the switch would need to be replaced. You can diagnose this by testing the power feed at the foot dimmer sw. with the headlights activated in the hi beam position. Using a 12 v test light monitor the power feed wire at the foot dimmer switch from the headlamp sw. If the power to this wire and the headlamps is lost after the 10-15 minute time period, the headlamp switch will need to be replaced or if you have super hi draw beams, relays will need to be installed in order to unload the circuit breaker in the switch. A secondary possible cause is a poor connection at the headlamp sw. plug that you can easily see from a melted plug contact at the switch. The over heated plug contact will transfer to the breaker inside the sw. and cause it to open the circuit. The wire color that you will need to test at the foot dimmer switch should be RED with a YELLOW stripe. In any case we will have the parts necessary for you to correct the problem. Good luck with the diagnosis and let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 16, 2015

1979 Mark V Electrical Gremlins from March 2015 & Updates....

Hi Bill,

I'm slowly trying to fix a few electrical gremlins on my recently-purchased 8000-mile 1979 Bill Blass Mark V. The power windows now work fine, and I've moved on to a power seat issue. The driver's side functions correctly in all directions, except none of the switch controls control the function direction they are supposed to control. This is true for both the 2 two-way buttons, and the four-way joystick. For instance, front tilt may instead cause the seat to go rearward, joystick forward may cause the seat to go down. It all seems quite random, and moving a switch in the opposite direction doesn't give the opposite function, but rather a different movement altogether. Needless to say, getting the seat in the correct position is like trying to play a memory game and recall which button does what. (The power lumbar on the side of the seat works fine) The passenger side works exactly as it should by the way.

So my thoughts have been that the motors seem to be all working as intended, and perhaps the issue is the switch itself getting it wires crossed, so to speak. Have you seen this before, and if so is the answer a new switch? Or is there a way the wires going to the seat motor could be plugged in wrong, like if the seat was removed for service and hooked up wrong? I see this can't happen with the switch design in the armrest, as it only connects one way. Can the wires to the seat motor attach in such a way to make this happen? I'm leaning towards the switch itself, even though it does function in an oddball manner, but don't want to throw money at an expensive switch until I have a second opinion.

On an unrelated note, in order to replace a power antenna that just broke on me, do I access it by removing the passenger front tire and front wheel splash shield? The motor still runs when I hit the switch but the antenna doesn't move on its own, so I'm thinking a stripped plastic gear or ripcord strip in there somewhere. Is there a rebuild kit for these like there is for the power window motors? This of course happened AFTER I recently lubed it...Murphy's Law!

Thanks again,

Jim Smithbauer
Interior Design Manager
The Lincoln Motor Company

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Hi Jim -

I have never heard of a power seat switch failing internally and causing all of the functions to still operate but in an incorrect pattern. The wire connections somehow could have been installed incorrectly however during some previous repair inside the armrest near the switch or at the seat drive motors and solenoids. Only a previous owner would know for sure what caused this or when it developed. I don't believe that the vehicle could have been delivered from the factory in this condition without being corrected by the selling Dealer and the original owner. As a first step, these above mentioned connections should be carefully examined and corrected if necessary as per the factory wiring diagrams and electrical plug wiring configurations. The possibility may also exist that an incorrect switch was installed at some point in time as these switches are known to fail. We can assist you with more advice, information or parts after you have investigated the wiring and switch type further.

The power antenna can be accessed for removal as you describe but full removal of the wheel well is not necessary as it is flexible and can easily be folded partly in order to gain access for removal of the antenna after enough bolts are removed. We do have parts available to service these antennas. In addition we can also perform this repair for you if the unit is sent to us.

If you would need wiring diagram information etc. please contact our office and mention your blog inquiry.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

I have an 8700 mile 1979 Mark V with the 400 V8. I'm having an issue where it occasionally stalls and am looking to see where to start troubleshooting. I've looked through past related questions, but they seem to have slightly different symptoms. Here's mine

- Car starts easily when cold or hot (I follow the manuals advice of one full throttle depression to start from cold to set the choke, about ½ throttle when warm), leading me to think it is not an EGR valve

- Car runs, accelerates, and cruises fine, with only a slight hesitation until warmed up for the first acceleration or two after coming off high-idle.

- The car has stalled on me once warmed up under a few different scenarios, like when applying the brakes while turning, idling or creeping in slow traffic while the brake is applied, and shifting into drive or reverse while pulling into the garage after a drive. But in all cases the car was fully warmed at the time. In all circumstances, the car starts right back up easily with no smoke or anything unusual, leading me to rule out vapor lock.

- This happens very intermittently, maybe only twice per drive, and not every time I shift, apply the brakes, or turn. It's usually just fine.

- When it stalls, there is no rough running first, it just quits altogether as if the key was turned off.

- It's happened through a few tanks of 93 octane gas from different places, leading me to rule out old or bad fuel. (The fuel is fresh too)

- I haven't tried cleaning the carb with carb cleaner because it seems like the problem would be more consistent if it was carburetor or fuel filter related, but am guessing here...

The car still has its original plugs and wires, and I'd like to keep them if possible. My mechanic said the plugs look good, and were getting good spark the last time I had it serviced for something unrelated and asked him to see if it needed a tune-up.

Does this sound like it could be an ignition module or coil starting to go bad based on it's very occasional nature? Or perhaps something else?

Thanks Bill!

Jim

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Hi Bill,

I came across a previous question of mine from a while back and thought I'd give you and the readers an update of what the solution turned out to be. I've included the original question and your answer below the update:

I did purchase a new power seat switch, and installed it into the driver's door. The problem remained the same. Then I removed the driver's seat and guess what? The 6-pin wiring harness connector was installed upside-down. I unclipped it, flipped one side 180 degrees, plugged it back in, and the seat worked great! I was surprised it fit either way. Based on my car's low mileage, I wonder if it was misbuilt at the factory, or just the victim of a dumb repair. Either way, it just goes to show that it's sometimes the simplest thing...

Thanks for the advice.

Jim

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Hello Jim -

After reading the description of your latest issue, it would appear that a strong possibility exists that one of the electronic ignition components is indeed failing. They are well known to fail in this manner on a vehicle of this age. They sometimes stop working when heated and then restart immediately. Many had issues years ago on vehicles that were only months old. The carburetor also has critical internal and external control parts that can deteriorate with age and ethanol laden fuel. Your spark plugs and high tension wiring although original cannot fail intermittently and all at once. Still they are key components and are over 35 years old and are known maintenance replacement items. The coil and coil wire though are common spark carriers to all of the high tension wires and spark plugs. The ignition system and the fuel systems both need to be maintained up to par in order to deliver optimum service. That is why age is against the spark plugs and wires in my opinion.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 15, 2015

1970 Mark III AC Issues

Hi there Bill -

I picked up a nice "barn find " however with anything there is some minor issues that need attention. The AC seems to be in tack and works however blows warm so I'm guessing a shot of freon. My trouble is I cant find the charging port. Usually it is pretty straight forward. I know its an old R 12 system but I use Envirosafe R 12- 134 the nice thing is it is not required to evac the system and the price makes it affordable enough to use and if there is a problem no worries. you didn't brake the bank. I do need a shop manual for some of the items I wish to tackle but in the mean time can you advise where the AC recharge port is? I'm waiting on a friend to send me his shop books but its hot here in Calif 100 plus so if I can get the ac running before even better.

Thanks

Ron

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Hi Ron -

If your 1970 Mark III has the original a/c system, the charging and system testing ports and valves are located on the compressor head and are manually operated. The Factory Shop manuals should explain their operation and how to operate these valves. However several problems are common and entirely possible. Of course I do not know exactly what is malfunctioning on your system as your Mark probably has the Automatic Climate Control which is complicated and is also explained at length in the shop manual. We offer an excellent rebuild and tune up service for most of these a/c controls. I should also advise you at this time that Lincoln Land and I do not recommend anyone who is not well versed and experienced with a/c systems to perform refrigeration procedures. Mistakes in this area can be costly health wise and Dollar wise. Do be careful.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 8, 2015

1963 Transmission / Brake Issues & Update

Hi Bill,

I have rebuilt my engine and it runs beautifully. I have also rebuilt the brakes on my car. However, when I shift the gears my car don't move. I have tried the following things thus far.

-Warming the engine and checking the transmission fluid levels
- Dextran and F type fluid
-used 8 quarts of new transmission fluid
- cleaning the transmission filter
-changing the bushing on the shift shafts
-replaced a leaking seal around the dip stick

Here is a thought and it is not good one. My last mechanic wanted me to rebuild the transmission. I declined and decided not to because the car was moving at the time but I did not have the brakes fixed yet. I hope he didn't sabotage the car to make me want to rebuild the transmission.

There are no visible leaks. What would you recommend. Please feel free to call me if you have time. Many of my parts were missing when I bought this car and you all have been a huge help to me.

Sincerely,
Almost there...

David

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Hi David -

That sure is not fun! You don't advise us if the issue appeared immediately after the brake repair, the engine overhaul or the transmission service or if only after all three were completed, so It appears that you will need to first make some checks related to all of the work that was recently performed. Assuming that the dipstick and tube are correct for the transmission and that the transmission then has the correct amount of ATF installed for it to operate I would carefully inspect the manual linkage from the transmission to the shift lever. I am thinking of possible internal transmission Shift Shaft or Shift Valve problems at this point. If all that is correct and the levers are selecting the shift ranges correctly and positively you should then shift into neutral (engine off for safety) and with the help of an assistant with the parking brake off try to push the vehicle by hand forward or reverse. If the car rolls freely then I would assume that the brakes are released and that the problem must be inside the transmission. If it cannot roll however then you will need to find out why the brakes are locked. If this transmission was performing properly before these repairs and maintenance procedures, something must have been done incorrectly or omitted. Any further ideas from Lincoln Land without further diagnosis and information on your part and may only serve to confuse you at this point. You may even need to consult your local transmission expert. If you do find some further useful information please call our office and George will ask one of our technicians to speak with you. In any case please let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thanks for getting back to me. I had the engine rebuilt and installed. It was moving fine but I had no brakes at the time. I then took the car home for a while. Letter I noticed the engine would struggle to start. I took the car to a different mechanic this time. He insisted the engine needed to come out a be put in again. So he did that and the car starts right up now. Still the car had no brakes and the transmission dip stick was now leaking and need a new seal. I had him fix this. At that time the car would still move since I had no brakes I could not really test the cars performance.

I had the brakes totally overhauled. They work properly now.

The problem I am having is when I move the shift from Park to Reverse to Neutral to Drive and to D1 nothing happens. It feels like the shift glides right over by he gears.
The car do roll in Neutral as you suggested and it holds in place when it is in park. Also the car only starts in Park and Neutral as it should.

I replaced the shift bushing and movement of the shift appears to be fine.

My thought was the shift linkage needed to be adjusted but I am told the steering column might be the issue or there might be a shift gear box. At this point I am lost. Perhaps I will take the car to a transmission place next. I love the old car so much. I really want it to run properly. It will be a joy to own when it is.

Best wishes,

David

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Hi David -

Taking the car to a GOOD transmission shop at this time is a good decision. It should be diagnosed by a competent on scene transmission expert. I am sure that you understand that we at Lincoln Land can only make suggestions based on your information submitted but we cannot do the actual diagnosis from here.

Your comment that the mechanic corrected the hard starting issue by removing and reinstalling the engine is interesting.

Please let us know the results of your transmission diagnosis and please tell your transmission technician that we have the parts available for the shifting mechanism as well as the internal transmission parts.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 2, 2015

1978 Town Car Transmission Fluid Leak

Greetings from Scotland again Bill!

In March of this year, I had fitted a new sump gasket and an "O" ring type grommet to my car with the object of stopping the leak of trans.fluid.This happens over a period of about six weeks as the car is sitting in the garage.----(maybe I should get out more!) After a couple of months, the car started leaking again!!

Should I be looking elsewhere, other than the sump area for the source of the leak?

I once had an auto box pack up on me on the open road which was VERY stressful, and at aged 77 I'm trying to avoid a heart attack at all costs!!

Any advice would be much appreciated (PS the engine is 7.5 litre VIN 8782A911725/ engine no.8Y82A911725)

Kind regards

Jimmy

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Greetings Jimmy -

Welcome back from one Scot to another. Some of these leaks can be difficult to locate at times. Your question.... should I be looking elsewhere other than the sump area for the source of the leak is a difficult task for me as I cannot see the leak on the ground or where your leak is seeping from on the transmission. I think that you should raise the vehicle safely in your garage the next time it will be unused for the time period that is required for it to leak. You can then keep an eye on it and then do a very precise visual inspection when the leak appears in order to exactly pinpoint the culprit. We may be able to provide further advice at that time or you may even need to seek the assistance of a trusted automatic transmission technician after you locate the leak. Those C6 transmissions do not fail because of only a little seepage so there is no need for you to have a heart attack over this. A transmission reseal could prove necessary though sometime in the future. Let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill-

Many thanks for your prompt response and advice will do!

Kind regards,

Jimmy

1981 Mark VI Fuel Gauge - Pump Issues

Hello -

I have a 1981 Lincoln Mark VI with the 302 fuel injected engine. My fuel gauge is flashing empty. When I was trying to diagnose the fuel pump I connected 12v to the prongs on the side of the gas tank not the top. Could this of caused it to go bad? Does this sound like something that you can fix?

Alfredo

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Hi Alfredo -

If this issue began immediately after your diagnosing efforts, I must of course assume that something electrical could have been damaged during that procedure. Do you have the necessary shop manual to follow in order to perform a safe diagnosis of that gauge and pump circuit. I am not certain if we can repair all or any your parts but we may be able to test them for you here at Lincoln Land. Good used replacement parts for these vehicles are also becoming more and more limited as time goes bye but we will work with you as best we can to help you with the repair. With that being said - check with us first for any needed parts.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 1, 2015

1979 Mark Brake Booster / Switch Issues

Hello Bill -

I have 1979 Lincoln Mark V. I replaced the power brake booster and my brakes pads don't release from the disc. Also when I replaced the power brake booster I replaced the brake light switch as well and now when the car is running, the brake lights stay on, and when I turn off the car, the brake lights stay on - what would be the problem ?

Ivan

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Ivan -

Were these items purchased from Lincoln Land? I want to make sure you received the correct parts.

Bill
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Bill -

No they weren't.

Ivan

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Hello Ivan -

If these two issues appeared ONLY AFTER the booster and the brake light switch were replaced, I can only suggest the following without actually seeing the installation......

The booster and its linkage, or the brake switch could somehow have been installed incorrectly in a way that holds the master cylinder piston partly applied and also the brake switch activated.

The other possibility is that the booster is incorrect or internally faulty. As you have not purchased these parts from Lincoln Land - you need to contact your supplier. Had they been purchased from us - we could advise you further, as we stand behind what we sell. If you are satisfied that the installation is indeed correct, this will be your only recourse. Of course DO NOT drive the vehicle in this condition!

Sincerely,

Bill