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August 27, 2015

1969 Mark AC Air Flow Control

Bill -

I was given your name and contact info by Chris Dunn at Lincon Land. I understand we all have something in common - all three of us have Mark IIIs without vinyl roofs! Certainly the way the designer had intended the car to be.

We need some advice with ours. We're trying to get the HVAC to function properly and the problem at hand is the air flow control. We have a competent mechanic here in Palm Springs, California who is familiar with older cars but he has reached the limits of his experience with this particular issue. As you know - access under the dash is quite limited. We only have 35K miles on the car so we're concerned about him randomly disassembling things.

We seem to be only getting air from the defroster. Chris tells me the ATC might be the culprit but we're wondering if there is any advice you can give for troubleshooting to pinpoint if that is the case?

We are scrambling to get the car fixed before the Palos Verdes Concours and the LCOC National meet in San Diego. We will be driving and showing the car at both events.

Any help you can provide would be appreciated.

Scott

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Scott -

The Automatic Climate Control system on your Mark III is a complicated system for its time and it is not easily and quickly understood and diagnosed. If the technician working on it is not skilled at automotive Climate Control systems in general and does not have the correct Manual and wiring diagram for that particular vehicle he or she will have a very difficult and time consuming job ahead. Some vehicles are fraught with several problems. Trouble shooting these mechanisms is always done with the proper Manuals etc. by your side. Your description of the one particular issue " we seem to only be getting air from the defroster" could prove though to be an easy fix if you are lucky because if that system on your Mark somehow looses its vacuum supply to the ATC control box, the controls will automatically default to Full Defrost, High Speed Blower and Maximum Temperature output at any control lever setting. Therefore the first item to check should be the vacuum supply to the ATC control box with the use of the vacuum diagram. Loss of vacuum ( an unplugged/broken vacuum hose ) could be your only problem. Additional issues with other symptoms are possible however.

Good luck with a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 25, 2015

1978 Town Coupe Rough Idle

Hello Bill,

Thank you for your endless patience for the woes of the Lincoln. My dad gave me the old 1978 Continental with the 7.5. l have tried everything we could think of to get it to idle smooth. It does have a re manufactured carb, just replaced the EGR valve, it has new spark plugs, wires, and coil. Dad was thinking we needed to set the float on the carb or that the Jets could be plugged, do you have any ideas?

Christian

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Greetings Christian -

A 78 Lincoln Coupe with the 460 cid engine is a very nice automobile and capable of satisfying a Lincoln lovers needs in all respects.

Not knowing the history of your Lincoln or how long it has been sitting or how well it ran before you received it I can only offer the following basic suggestions. If you suspect that the jets could be plugged ( with fuel tank debris ) you could replace the fuel filter and then thoroughly inspect the old filter. Vehicles that have been unused for a period of time can in some cases form rust in the gas tank that will end up in the carburetor eventually. I am assuming that your new spark plugs and wiring are in good order but further ignition problems such as distributor cap and rotor or any of the electronic modules could also be considered as suspects.

If you are not capable of specific diagnosis, a trip to a trusted tune up shop near your location could prove less costly than guessing and replacing parts that are not faulty. A good capable tune up technician can electronically scope your engine and possibly identify electronic ignition problems or dead cylinders etc. A cylinder compression test may even be required. As these tests are performed, a good technician is led methodically to the problem area.

Even though the engine has had a remanufactured carburetor at some point in time, they are well known to disappoint especially if they are receiving rust laden fuel from the fuel tank, therefore I would begin with a fuel system inspection as you also seem to suspect with your plugged jets comment. If you have no success in the fuel area you could then move on to some of the other suggestions above if required. Good luck with a speedy repair and as usual we will stand by with any repair parts that you may require.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 21, 2015

1975 Town Car Lights Flashing

Bill -

I have a 1975 Lincoln Continental Town Car. 90,000 original miles. My problem is, after anywhere from 10-20 minutes of driving the car my dash, tail, and parking lights start turning on and off repeatedly. I can hear a click when it does it. Like a relay clicking on and off as the lights go on and off. I do not have the auto dimmer option on my car. Just wondering if it is the relay getting hot and then cycling through an on and off stage. Or if the actual lights on pull switch on the dash is bad?? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I am restricted to only driving during the day and would love to figure this out so I could cruise it at night. If it is the relays, where is it or are they located? Where can I get replacement relays and switches for the lights. Thank you ahead of time! Look forward to hearing from you soon!

Sincerely,

Sean

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Hi Sean -

Your description of the parking lamp circuit failure sounds like the Park Lamp circuit breaker which is located within the Headlamp switch is fatigued. If so, the h/l switch will need to be replaced. If however any other lights or wiring that are associated with the park lamp circuit are not operating properly and/or could be partly grounded etc. these could be suspect as well. This may include marker lamps, coach lamps, license lights, ash tray lights etc. If you happen to have any existing added on trailer towing wiring, this should also be considered as a partly grounded source in the diagnosis. Another known possibility is a bad electrical connection at the h/l switch itself. This happened to my own 1969 Continental and resulted in the clearly visible hot plug in connection transferring heat to and causing the breaker to cycle as you describe. If your problem is indeed finally diagnosed to be the Headlamp Switch etc. we will be pleased to have you as a customer and supply you with the correct repair parts. Be sure to keep us posted.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 7, 2015

1979 Mark V New Owner Questions

Hi Bill -

I have imported a 1979 Lincoln Mark V to Denmark, it has only done 36000 miles from new, when I got the car it stalled if i was to quick hitting the gas pedal, I have cleaned the carburetor and that has helped a lot, but I still have a problem when the is hot and I stop and put it in reverse it stall, sometime it also stall when I go around a corner and not using the gas pedal, perhaps you can give me some help on fixing my problem, I think the car has spent a lot of time parked in a garage, so I also put a new fuel line filter on the car oil and oil filter?

Regards
Jorgen
Denmark

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Hi Jorgen -

Unless your carburetor floats were or are set incorrectly your stalling issues sound to me like basic tune up and carburetor adjustments are needed. In any case that is exactly where I would begin. It couldn't hurt to inspect the spark plugs for gap and wear as well. Do you have the necessary Factory Shop manuals to read, understand and perform these basic adjustments?

Sincerely,

Bill

August 3, 2015

1968 Continental New Owner Questions

Bill:

I recently purchased a 1968 Lincoln Continental 4-door sedan with the 7.5L 460 motor see attached photos. During some recent driving I have experienced the following 2 problems:

The last few times I tried to start the car I have take the air cleaner off and spray a little carb cleaner/starting fluid into the carb and she fires right up. Is this a choke problem or overall carb problem?
Also after last few rides when I get back home and turn the car off the alternator light comes on and stays on. If I restart the car it starts back up and turn off the light comes back on. The only way to get the light to go out is to disconnect the battery and I hear a click and the light goes out. I checked the battery voltage and it is reading 12 volts resting and 13+ volts when running. I also removed what at first I thought was the voltage regulator off the interior front right fender next to starter relay but this relay was actually the "Master Power Relay" I attached some photos.. Needless to say I figured out where the voltage regulator was (front left next to radiator) but when I went to the local Nappa the counter guy broke the lead off the A terminal on the Master Power Relay. Since this a plug type unit that mounts to frame I figured it just controlled "something else" that used power in the car. With the unit out the car starts up (with a shot of carb cleaner) and runs but I have no idea what this unit controls or does. I did some looking in shop manual for 1967 and the 1968 supplemental and I don't see anything. Do you know what it controls? I see new one costs $135 but I may try to solder the broke terminal and see if holds up.
The windshield wiper arms and blades that came with the car where horrible and the prior owner must have run them with blade off the passenger side because it scratched the window pretty bad. I took off the arms and noticed the one on the passenger had a different shape and the end was bent a little. Since getting new blade inserts I learned the the drivers side wiper holder should actually be the one with the bow or curve is that correct? I have attached a picture.

Whatever insight you can provide would greatly be appreciated.

Sincerely,

Joe

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Hi Joe -

Congratulations on your recent acquisition. It does sound however like you have purchased a car with several existing problems. These are actually very nice vehicles when all systems are operating as they should.

To answer some of your questions, yes, if you need to add starter fluid in order to start the engine there could be a choke or carburetor problem. Can you not determine if the choke is operative when you are adding the starting fluid to a cold engine? Of course the engine could also be in need of a major tune up in the ignition and fuel delivery department but I cannot in any way be certain from here. Do you have any information of the vehicle maintenance history to refer to?

You are correct that the curved wiper arm is installed on the left side (drivers side). The curve allows the blade to completely wipe the windshield curve on the left side.

The voltage at the battery with the engine running should be higher that 13v. This makes me believe that you may have a charging circuit problem. The same problem could be the same fault that is keeping the alt. light on with the ignition off and could be caused by the alternator itself. In any case, the charging system needs to be diagnosed as per the shop manual or by a competent automotive electrical shop. Any unknown tampering with the factory wiring installation or design by a previous owner of course can also cause strange electrical problems

The damaged relay in your photos appears to be the Power Window Safety Relay. We can offer to supply you with a replacement or to test and rebuild yours as necessary. Good luck and let us know how you would like to proceed with this.

Sincerely,

Bill