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July 29, 2015

1970 Mark III New Owner Problems...

Good Morning from Arizona:

I recently purchased this vehicle from a "dealer" in Phoenix. Even though the auto has low mileage, 56,500 miles, it has caused me a lot of problems. Before purchasing the vehicle, the dealer showed me many repairs that was made on the vehicle. It has an electronic ignition system installed as well as other repairs on the vacuum system. Left headlight will not close for example, the A/C does not work but the blower motor does. The biggest problem is the vehicle will not go into second gear! The Ford dealer in Starr Valley, AZ says it is the "governor" but will not be able to repair it as there are no parts available for it! I find that hard to believe! So, the vehicle sits and has been for the past four months at the dealer. Can you advise me if there is something else that needs to be considered or what is your recommendation! The other items can wait but without the ability to shift, the vehicle is unsafe to drive.

Regards,

Rance

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Hi Rance -

The C6 transmission in your newly purchased Mark III is one of the best automatic transmissions ever built. The further good news is that we at Lincoln Land have many good used parts and repair kits available for this transmission. Many transmission parts suppliers carry gaskets and general maintenance and wear items as well. Unfortunately though, you may have purchased this car a little hastily. You seem to now own a vehicle that you cannot even begin driving at this time because of an existing transmission issue and with my experience on collector cars, more repair surprises may be in your future.

There is good news though for your transmission problem. The greater Phoenix AZ area will have many skilled old school transmission technicians on staff with C6 experience who will be pleased to properly diagnose your problem and repair that transmission. You will need to do some very careful shopping and choose wisely. All of your other Mark III issues will prove equally frustrating however if you are not prepared or able to perform your own repairs and do plenty of reading of the proper shop manuals.

If all of this is new to you and you do plan to keep and drive this vehicle, the best advice that I can give you at this time is to join the national "Lincoln Continental and Owners Club". You can then contact other Lincoln owners in your locality and learn from them where the best capable repair shops are located in your immediate area for this car. We will be here for you when you need any parts and manuals etc. if you need them.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 28, 2015

1968 Continental Battery Drain

Bill,

I've got an all original 68 Continental with a 462. I'm having similar issues as this guy

http://www.lincolnlandinc.com/blog/2015/03/1963_continental_battery_drain.html


Car runs and drives great. BUT even with a brand new battery and voltage regulator the car will die even while running if I over use power windows, horn, or seats.

Example, brand new battery put on yesterday. Started and stopped several times while taking it to dinner. Then this morning the car was died so I jump the car and drive it around, running great. Then I park the car in driveway and roll up the windows before shutting car off I begin to roll up windows. Rolls up fine at first but then they start slowing down until the car dies altogether.

Something seems to be draining the battery while it runs or sits. Alternator test shows the alternator to be good but I'm curious if moving to a self regulated alternator would be the trick? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Pics of my baby blue attached.

Thanks!!

Jason

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Greetings Jason -

From the information that you have provided, I can only guess that you have a charging problem or a wiring problem. You do not state how the alternator was tested or the actual charging voltage at the battery from the alternator during these tests. Meaningful diagnosis by a competent automotive electrical shop with the correct wiring diagram may be necessary.

Your link to a previous post also states an electrical problem but without the engine stalling due to loss of voltage that you seem to be experiencing. I asked that poster in my reply to him in the link to let us know what he finds but he never shared those results with us so we will never know.

You also state that "tests show the alternator to be good" and then you ask if a different design alternator will correct your problems. I do not understand your reasoning when you ask that if replacing a good working charging design with another design will correct your issues. The original 1968 charging system was quite adequate........unless you have some sort of added on high draw electrical equipment, missing ground wires or wrongly arranged original wiring that you are not revealing to us, proper diagnosis in a logical sequence will required.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 21, 2015

1962 Continental Horn Issues

Hi Bill,

I have a 62 Continental. The horn does not work. I have replaced the contact brush in the steering column. When I short that brush to ground I hear the relay click. When connect the horns to battery directly they sound off.

Where is the 1)horn relay and 2) breaker and how do I remove them? Are they available; if so how much?

Thank you for your time in this matter


Rick

PS: I see the horn breaker is on the primary side of the relay so I guess it looks like the relay is toast. Where is it? How do I remove? How much? Thanks again

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Greetings Rick -

The horn relay along with the circuit breaker should be located in the Power Box on the rt. side fire wall on the engine side under the hood. It is unfortunately a cramped location to work in. If you hear a click when you press the horn ring then the relay is a good starting point for diagnosis. An excellent drawing of the circuit and wire colors is shown on page 10-68 in the 1961 Lincoln Shop Manual. If you jump the black /yellow wire to the black wire at the relay, The horns should sound if the relay is receiving power from the breaker and if a click is heard inside the relay when you press the horn ring the relay is very likely faulty internally. These parts are removed by observing and removing their mounting fasteners and wiring connectors. Disconnect the battery first as a precaution. George will include a copy of the page 10-68 along with availability and prices of these two parts in our reply. Good luck with an easy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 13, 2015

1977 Mark V Questions & Update

Bill,

I've never seen somebody so devoted to helping others with their passion. I truly love my Mark V and I'm glad to read so many helpful comments posted on your blog! You're helping to keep these treasures rolling and all of us grinning.

Here's my question:

The heat setting of my Mark's A.T.C. doesn't give me any blower function. I get great heat in defog but the fan shuts off only in Heat.

Where is the location of the C.E.L.O. on the 1977 Mark V with 7.5L? What other functions does this switch provide?

I also see some vacuum hoses going into what look like two ported vacuum switches, one directly on top of the thermostat housing and the other in front of that, by the distributor. What are the functions of those P.V.S.' as well?

Dack

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Hi Dack -

We are pleased that you enjoy the blog but it is more than just a passing interest for me. The blog is available for our already loyal customers and to further promote Lincoln Land in a way to develop our customer base.

The cold engine blower lockout switch on your 1977 MkV with the 460 cid engine is located on the intake manifold ahead of the carburetor. It is integral with the temperature switch. The plug is D shaped and the wire for the blower delay portion is yellow with a white stripe. If you have correctly diagnosed this as your problem, great ....but we find that this switch is rarely ever the cause of " loss of blower" in the Heat position with a warm engine. If you are doing your own repairs and wish to diagnose this and learn about other engine controls such as the engine vacuum controls, a proper FoMoCo shop manual is a must as the vacuum controls can be confusing with the many designs during the model year. The manual explains many of these questions at length. Contact us if you need further information on your blower issue or if you would need any manuals.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

I appreciate your detailed response. I couldn't find this information anywhere on the Internet!

I've found the switch and it is functional. I've narrowed it down to the fact that there is low voltage to the primary side of the EVR solenoid. If I short the wires on the secondary side, the blower and ATC function normally! The Ford wiring diagrams sure don't make it very easy to trace but it can be done in time.

Thanks!

Dack

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Dack -

It sounds like you are on the right track now due to the correct diagnosis on your part. We of course have the necessary repair parts for you when you need them.

Bill

July 1, 2015

1966 Continental Brake Light Issue

Hi Bill,

I love your blog! You are so thorough in explaining your answers to the many varied questions. Now I have one I hope you can help me with.

I have a 66 Continental Convertible that has a weird brake light problem. It seems that the passenger side brake light doesn't light at the same brake pedal pressure as the brake light for the driver's side. A somewhat light pressure on the brake pedal that is enough to brake the car to a stop from a slow to moderate speed brings on the driver side brake lights, but the passenger side brake lights only light when a very firm pedal pressure is applied. All the turn signals work properly, as do the tail lights.

Looking at the electrical drawings, it seems like there is only one brake light switch circuit (unless there has been some undocumented modifications,during production or by an owner over the years).

Thanks in advance for any suggestions of things for me to check.

Robert

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Hi Robert -

Sounds like News of the Weird! Sometimes though it doesn't take too much to upset a circuit. You are correct, more brake pressure can't send more voltage to the right brake lights. Two possibilities come to mind though. First make sure that all of the brake lights are on and have the same brightness when they DO work. The bulbs on one side may be incorrect for the car. Second there may be a bad ground at the right side bulb location or a bad connection at any switch or relay that leads to the right brake lights. The circuit for the turn signals, four way flashers and brake lights on the 1966 Lincoln is complicated and can be difficult to diagnose. You could check another possibility by applying the brakes slowly and have a helper tell you when the left side illuminates. At this point stop the pressure on the pedal with the left side on and wiggle the turn signal lever in the center ( neutral ) position area and have your helper observe for the right side to light up. If it does, the turn signal switch could be internally faulty or if you have the "tilt wheel" option it could be out of adjustment. When diagnosing it is important to concentrate mostly on the wiring for the right side and watch for some previous wiring repair that could be defective. All connections and grounds can be suspect. It is very good that you have the wiring diagram indicating the wire colors. I hope that these suggestions help to lead you to a quick repair.

Sincerely,

Bill