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April 29, 2015

1969 Mark III Blower Motor Questions & Response

Bill,

I am currently working on the HVAC system on my 1969 Continental Mark III. I have read many of your posts and have learned and used a lot of your advice for my car. My car has the Automatic Climate Control and has a funny noise coming from the blower motor. From what I have learned so far it sounds very much like a bad bearing in the blower motor. My shop manual is not very clear on the removal of the blower motor.I have gotten as far as the recirculation diverter valve loose but the problem is I cannot seem to fully remove the valve assembly. It gets stuck about halfway of its travel coming out. I tried and tried to somehow find a way on how to properly remove the valve without damaging it but I had no luck. It would be great if you could lend me some of your advice and knowledge on how to remove it fully.

Thank you for your time and I would love to hear back from you!

Jett

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Hi Jett -

The complete re-circ. assembly needs to be removed for access to the blower removal and not only the valve. This is probably what you are actually referring to. There is one vacuum and one electrical connector to unplug as well as the removal of six screws. The whole unit is then carefully pried from the original body caulking and rotated and pulled as necessary for removal. The removal of the glove box liner and the two screws for the fuse box and allowing it to pivot out of the way will allow you to see the operation much better. You may need to carefully observe and then loosen or remove some other component etc. that are blocking the path of removal. I have no other removal tips as I have never had any problems removing this assembly. The factory manual is short on the subject but there are some drawings to be found in the Heat/A/C section. Because of the removal labor, replacement of the motor with a new or one with good bearings is advised. We should have one available for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thank you very much for your reply. As it turns out I had to remove the ATC box and temporarily slightly bend the fuse box support to remove the recirc. Door assy. I then removed the blower motor only to find that I had indeed had a bad bearing and that my squirrel cage was the round top style. I see on your Lincoln land website that the only blower motor you sell is for a flat top squirrel cage. Do you recommend I buy a flat top squirrel cage to fit a blower motor that requires it or do you have a blower motor that is compatible with a round top. If you don't do you know where to get one and what is the part # for it. Once again thank you very much for your reply, it helped me very much.

Sincerely,

Jett

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Greetings Jett -

Thanks for the update and I am real pleased that we were able to help. Yes there were some variations for the 69-71 Marks regarding blower motors and wheels. Call our office and ask to speak to Al. Refer him to your recent blog post. We should be able to find correct parts that will work fine for you as the availability of these parts is constantly changing. Al is aware of this and he is very good at sourcing hard to find items from the aftermarket as well as our inventory. Do not throw out any of your used blower motor parts as they may be needed for rebuilding in the future.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 27, 2015

1979 Mark V Oil Suggestions

Hi Bill,

I recently purchased a 1979 Mark V, do you recommend synthetic oil and at what weight..

Thanx,

John

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Hello John -

Congrats on your Mark V purchase. If you have a nice Clean, Quiet engine in Good running order that uses (burns) not much or minimum oil between scheduled oil changes, a good brand of premium high detergent 10-30 motor oil for normal summer driving or 10-40 motor oil for high speed hot weather driving will be a good choice. Synthetic oil is even a better choice for a clean good running engine. Unfortunately, no brand or weight of any oil will repair worn out parts inside of any engine. This opinion is only my opinion though, many other opinions can be found all over the internet in automotive forums.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 24, 2015

1971 Mark III Emission Tube Questions - Progress Update

Hi Bill,

My name is Dan. I picked up a couple of pieces from John that have helped me along with my 71 Mark III. Having redone the doors and electronics in there,along with the signal flasher via epoxy magic I reconditioned the interior wood all around and have now moved on to the engine, vacuum and emission systems; finding lost grounds, seized
washer pump, leaky vacuum canisters, a few lines that needed new rubber; reconditioned the power steering, vacuum air canisters and lines and emission air pump in need of some serious lube. Redid all the water lines, rad and air conditioning rad and so I am thinking this is looking like the clean up of the day having resolved about 5 inoperable accessory problems. Now I would like to deal with the emission tubes on
the back of the heads Bill. I saw some reference to these from your blog information about these tubes . Thank you for the great resource. From the wisdom I've garnered from your site, 18 months into my 71 Mk III adventure, I say you are a man of knowledge for sure when it comes to these beastly babies. What a delight the way big metal indulges luxury with the last of a bread. Anyway, when you remove the pipes from the block; I am thinking they are pressure fit from what you were saying; so just twist them off Bill? Then refit a pressure type connector back into the outlet. They are not threaded are they Bill?

I know you mentioned the option of seal these but I was thinking that I may as well put it back into the system as original for now anyway. I did have a lot of success reconditioning all the auxiliary canisters in the system. Or would you say save the effort to spin the air pump and save emissions that way Bill.

Thanks again and have a great day.

Dan

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Hi Dan -

Good to hear that you are doing so well in the restoration of your Mark.

You are correct, Those emission pipe ends merely insert snuggly into the heads and are held in tight with a finger clamp and bolt that is similar to the speedo cable installation into the transmission. They should pull out easily with the removal of the hold down bolt. As mentioned in previous posts you can restore to original ( if you have the necessary good parts ) or you can remove the whole system along with the tubes. Push in plugs that are a version of frost plugs for the block but smaller are available for the elimination of the tubes into the heads.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 23, 2015

1976 Mark IV Dash Disassembly Questions

Hey Bill,

My name is Harley and I recently bought a 1976 Lincoln Continental Mark IV. I need to remove the dashboard to rewire the radio, which is the part I know. The part I don't know is how to remove the dashboard's wood-grain plate. I have tried all that is obvious to me and I would appreciate it if you could help me with this!

Thank You

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Greetings Harley -

Congratulations on your recent purchase.

The step by step procedures with drawings are shown in section 33 and 35 of the factory set of shop manuals for removal of the radio and the dash cluster area. It is quite lengthy and well written. If you are planning on doing your own repairs etc. on your Mark IV, a set of manuals would be a great plus for this and future procedures . We may be able to arrange to print up and send to you only these specific sections for your car. Call our office and ask for George. He is aware of your email and will be able to arrange a print up on the information that you need for this dash board removal work and rewiring that you are now doing.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 22, 2015

1966 Continental Coupe Running And Fuel Pump Issues

Hey Bill,

I was hoping you may be able to help. I have a 1966 Lincoln Continental Coupe dies when shifted out of park or neutral.

I am on my 3rd fuel pump and I am not sure what to do. The first 2 I had placed under the hood near the carburetor. This 3rd one I place right up on the tank by the outlet. It starts great, idols great shifts great then dies. UGGG!

Please help,
Thanks,

Troy

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Hello Troy -

Sometimes these issues can be a challenge can't they. Your symptom of stalling when the transmission is engaged is a common complaint. The problem can be caused by many components however. The biggest failure in many of these repairs is "Incorrect Diagnosis". You seem to believe that you have a fuel delivery issue. Did anyone actually prove your belief with a proper fuel pump pressure and flow test as per the factory maintenance manual? Why do you think that you have a fuel delivery problem? These engines run real well with all of the factory fuel system parts in place and in good working order without electric pumps. Before performing ANY repair though you must be sure that you are on the right track with accurate diagnosis. You need to prove that the engine stalled because of lack of fuel to the carburetor. Because I cannot diagnose the cause from here I can only make some other suggestions for you to consider. Other causes of stalling when engaged in gear could be.......ALL basic carburetor set up and adjustments internal and external (very important), vital ignition maintenance and adjustments ( points, plugs and wires etc.) Be accurate in the diagnosis. Do not guess. Use the factory service manual for diagnosing.

If you do prove for sure that lack of fuel at the carburetor is the problem and that all of the fuel hoses and lines as well as the filters and the fuel tank inlet at the fuel sending unit and pick up in the tank are all o/k, send us an email in that regard and we will respond with more fuel system suggestions. Let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

1966 Continental Coupe Window Issues

Bill,

I just recently bought a 1966 Lincoln Continental Coupe. I am having issues with the power windows. I can hear the window motors turn on when I push the window switches up. However when I move the switch to roll the windows down nothing happens. This problem is consistent on all 4 windows. I also have to have the switch moved to the bypass position before the switches will operate. I have taken the window motor out on the drivers side to ensure it does work and again the motor on operates when I move the switch to the up position. Can you help me diagnose the problem so I can purchase the correct parts from Lincoln Land.

Thanks,

John

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Hello John -

From your description, it sounds like you are having plastic Gear problems with the motors as well as some switch problems. In your case I suggest that you call Al at our office as he is able to rebuild most of these switches and we are also able to supply parts for the window motor gears if necessary.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 21, 2015

1979 Mark V Fuel Gauge, Sending Unit Questions

Hey Bill,

I have a 1979 Bill Blass Mark V I just bought 4 months ago and the gas gauge doesn't work (not digital). So I jacked the back end up and turned the key to "on." With the sending unit plugged in, the needle moved to almost "E." I unplugged it and the needle didn't move at all. What does all this mean? Attached is a pic of the unit, but I'm perplexed because you can see it only has 2 of the3 prongs. Can it still work if it only has 2 prongs?

Thanks again,

Paul

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Hi Paul -

From your photo I can't determine if your wiring plug has two or three wires to it to match the sending unit. If there is only two wires on the female plug then it is correct and should work. I also cannot see in the photo if one of the male pins is missing or if it is a correct blank off third pin style as designed and is a two wire unit.

The best way to test the fuel gauge circuit is the method that is shown in the1979 factory shop manual. However we find that many of these in tank sending units have due to age corroded badly and require replacement or repair. From the appearance of your tank unit it would not hurt to remove and inspect it. It may be badly deteriorated and/or the float could have developed a leak and rendered it useless. If you do not have a shop manual or the test equipment, we would offer to test your sending unit and advise you further if you could remove it and send it to us. Call our office for more information.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 20, 2015

1972 Mark IV Power Door Lock Issues

Dear Bill,

I'm a proud recent owner of a Lincoln Mark IV from 6-1972.

I have a problem with the power lock system from the doors. The passenger door is stuck and will not be opened by key or by pulling from inside on the knob or door handle. They driver's side can be opened with key although keys are worn out little.

What could be the problem here? I would think that even if a relay or breaker is broken the door should be possible to open by key right?


With kind regards,

‚ÄčAlex‚Äčander

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Greetings Alexander -

Some of these issues can be frustrating and because your car is a recent purchase the fact that you may not know the history of the door lock failure will make it harder to diagnose. This problem can be caused by any one of several faults within the door. The key that you are using could be incorrect for the passenger door because of a previous repair to the drivers or passenger door. There may even be some sort of hidden lock damage inside the door that cannot be seen from the outside if you purchased the car with that door not operating. The power door lock module could be seized inside the passenger door and subsequently causing the lock to become non operative. Does the drivers door power lock operate correctly? The lock mechanism or the remote rods inside the door could be seizing or are maladjusted. Sometimes removal of the lock mechanism and a complete cleaning and oiling of all moving parts can get the mechanism working as new. An experienced inspection of the inside of the door will probably be necessary to find the culprit.

Of course the door will need to be opened in order to remove the trim panel and gain access to the repair therefore you may need to seek the service of a locksmith who can trip the mechanism in order to open the door for you. If you are having a repair shop do the entire repair, that shop may have the proper "lock out" tools on hand. If we can help you further with any parts or advice when you have more information available, call our office and refer to your blog.

Sincerely,

Bill

April 13, 2015

1993 Town Car AC Question & Follow Up

Hey Bill

I was wondering why my 1993 Town Car blows cool AC while I'm driving, but many times if I make a turn I hear some kind of swoosh sound and the AC will then blow hot air. I usually have to perform the AC diagnostic test and the AC will usually blow cool after the test is complete. Any idea?? Thanks

JT

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Hello JT -

Do you not get any display codes from your diagnostic tests? Not being able to hear the actual sound that you describe or where it is coming from, your description sounds much like a faulty Temperature Blend Door Actuator or the Blend Door itself inside the heater/ac plenum. These two items are well known to fail on these systems. The fact that the issue surfaces when you make a turn though leads me to side with a blend door malfunction of some kind. The actual repair can be time consuming and definitely is not for persons that are unskilled in under dash and heater/ac work. Even good automotive ac/heat techs need experience with a few of these to become comfortable with them. If you are planning on doing this repair yourself I would strongly advise you to first get a solid second opinion from a good local a/c technician who is familiar with these systems. While I am quite confident at this point in my opinion, an actual on scene opinion may be more accurate and valuable for you due to the difficult location of the failed parts. If we can be of further help with any shop manuals or repair parts please call our office.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill -

I remember the diag test displaying a 02 and I believe that's the only number it shows. It does sound like extensive work but I really appreciate your email. It is very good advice thank you.

JT

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JT -

Thanks for the quick return information. That code 02 is the fault code display for the Blend Door Actuator module. We are pleased that you enjoy the blog.

Sincerely,

Bill
Bill