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March 30, 2015

1963 Continental Battery Drain Issue

Hey Bill!

Something seems to be draining my battery and I haven't been able to determine what it is yet. Maybe u can shed some light?

I've replaced the alternator, voltage regulator, starter solenoid, battery cables and connections, fuses, plus I've even replaced the battery itself.

The car runs and drives but if I don't disconnect the battery when parked in the garage then the battery drains.

I ran the car and disconnected the positive post while car was running and it caused it to shut off.

I'm thinking there's a wiring issue in between the battery, alternator, and voltage regulator. When I replaced them I put the connections exactly where they were on the original parts. Perhaps original owner didn't have them correct in the first place.

My generator gauge light stays on as well.

Any suggestions?

Thank you

Matt

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Hello Matt -

Did you replace those parts to correct that same problem of battery drain? Were any of these parts purchased at Lincoln Land? You don't mention if the battery is being charged properly or not with the correct voltage or not by these replaced parts. In any case, if you suspect a wiring problem you will need to carefully inspect and test your wiring as per the (correct) wiring diagram for your vehicle and repair the faulty wiring as necessary. I would probably start though by disconnecting the alternator from the circuit separately to find out if the battery drain then goes away overnight and then move on to the regulator if the drain still exists. One of the new parts could be defective and causing the battery drain. Meaningful diagnosis with the correct tools and testing equipment along the Shop Manual is necessary to pinpoint most charging and electrical issues. This method also helps to avoid replacing components that are not defective. Let us know what you find out.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 24, 2015

1979 Mark V Electrical Gremlins & Updates....

Hi Bill,

I'm slowly trying to fix a few electrical gremlins on my recently-purchased 8000-mile 1979 Bill Blass Mark V. The power windows now work fine, and I've moved on to a power seat issue. The driver's side functions correctly in all directions, except none of the switch controls control the function direction they are supposed to control. This is true for both the 2 two-way buttons, and the four-way joystick. For instance, front tilt may instead cause the seat to go rearward, joystick forward may cause the seat to go down. It all seems quite random, and moving a switch in the opposite direction doesn't give the opposite function, but rather a different movement altogether. Needless to say, getting the seat in the correct position is like trying to play a memory game and recall which button does what. (The power lumbar on the side of the seat works fine) The passenger side works exactly as it should by the way.

So my thoughts have been that the motors seem to be all working as intended, and perhaps the issue is the switch itself getting it wires crossed, so to speak. Have you seen this before, and if so is the answer a new switch? Or is there a way the wires going to the seat motor could be plugged in wrong, like if the seat was removed for service and hooked up wrong? I see this can't happen with the switch design in the armrest, as it only connects one way. Can the wires to the seat motor attach in such a way to make this happen? I'm leaning towards the switch itself, even though it does function in an oddball manner, but don't want to throw money at an expensive switch until I have a second opinion.

On an unrelated note, in order to replace a power antenna that just broke on me, do I access it by removing the passenger front tire and front wheel splash shield? The motor still runs when I hit the switch but the antenna doesn't move on its own, so I'm thinking a stripped plastic gear or ripcord strip in there somewhere. Is there a rebuild kit for these like there is for the power window motors? This of course happened AFTER I recently lubed it...Murphy's Law!

Thanks again,

Jim Smithbauer
Interior Design Manager
The Lincoln Motor Company

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Hi Jim -

I have never heard of a power seat switch failing internally and causing all of the functions to still operate but in an incorrect pattern. The wire connections somehow could have been installed incorrectly however during some previous repair inside the armrest near the switch or at the seat drive motors and solenoids. Only a previous owner would know for sure what caused this or when it developed. I don't believe that the vehicle could have been delivered from the factory in this condition without being corrected by the selling Dealer and the original owner. As a first step, these above mentioned connections should be carefully examined and corrected if necessary as per the factory wiring diagrams and electrical plug wiring configurations. The possibility may also exist that an incorrect switch was installed at some point in time as these switches are known to fail. We can assist you with more advice, information or parts after you have investigated the wiring and switch type further.

The power antenna can be accessed for removal as you describe but full removal of the wheel well is not necessary as it is flexible and can easily be folded partly in order to gain access for removal of the antenna after enough bolts are removed. We do have parts available to service these antennas. In addition we can also perform this repair for you if the unit is sent to us.

If you would need wiring diagram information etc. please contact our office and mention your blog inquiry.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

I have an 8700 mile 1979 Mark V with the 400 V8. I'm having an issue where it occasionally stalls and am looking to see where to start troubleshooting. I've looked through past related questions, but they seem to have slightly different symptoms. Here's mine

- Car starts easily when cold or hot (I follow the manuals advice of one full throttle depression to start from cold to set the choke, about ½ throttle when warm), leading me to think it is not an EGR valve

- Car runs, accelerates, and cruises fine, with only a slight hesitation until warmed up for the first acceleration or two after coming off high-idle.

- The car has stalled on me once warmed up under a few different scenarios, like when applying the brakes while turning, idling or creeping in slow traffic while the brake is applied, and shifting into drive or reverse while pulling into the garage after a drive. But in all cases the car was fully warmed at the time. In all circumstances, the car starts right back up easily with no smoke or anything unusual, leading me to rule out vapor lock.

- This happens very intermittently, maybe only twice per drive, and not every time I shift, apply the brakes, or turn. It's usually just fine.

- When it stalls, there is no rough running first, it just quits altogether as if the key was turned off.

- It's happened through a few tanks of 93 octane gas from different places, leading me to rule out old or bad fuel. (The fuel is fresh too)

- I haven't tried cleaning the carb with carb cleaner because it seems like the problem would be more consistent if it was carburetor or fuel filter related, but am guessing here...

The car still has its original plugs and wires, and I'd like to keep them if possible. My mechanic said the plugs look good, and were getting good spark the last time I had it serviced for something unrelated and asked him to see if it needed a tune-up.

Does this sound like it could be an ignition module or coil starting to go bad based on it's very occasional nature? Or perhaps something else?

Thanks Bill!

Jim

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Hi Bill,

I came across a previous question of mine from a while back and thought I'd give you and the readers an update of what the solution turned out to be. I've included the original question and your answer below the update:

I did purchase a new power seat switch, and installed it into the driver's door. The problem remained the same. Then I removed the driver's seat and guess what? The 6-pin wiring harness connector was installed upside-down. I unclipped it, flipped one side 180 degrees, plugged it back in, and the seat worked great! I was surprised it fit either way. Based on my car's low mileage, I wonder if it was misbuilt at the factory, or just the victim of a dumb repair. Either way, it just goes to show that it's sometimes the simplest thing...

Thanks for the advice.

Jim

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Hello Jim -

After reading the description of your latest issue, it would appear that a strong possibility exists that one of the electronic ignition components is indeed failing. They are well known to fail in this manner on a vehicle of this age. They sometimes stop working when heated and then restart immediately. Many had issues years ago on vehicles that were only months old. The carburetor also has critical internal and external control parts that can deteriorate with age and ethanol laden fuel. Your spark plugs and high tension wiring although original cannot fail intermittently and all at once. Still they are key components and are over 35 years old and are known maintenance replacement items. The coil and coil wire though are common spark carriers to all of the high tension wires and spark plugs. The ignition system and the fuel systems both need to be maintained up to par in order to deliver optimum service. That is why age is against the spark plugs and wires in my opinion.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 23, 2015

1970 Mark III !@#$% Brake Problem

Bill-

I have a 1970 MK III. Current problem started with what seemed like a bad master cylinder; peddle would go to the floor if you hit it hard.

I took it to my long time mechanic who has been in the business decades, and worked on this car as well as its predecessor 1971 MKIII. He checked all the other brake elements and agreed, the master cylinder should be changed.

I had acquired a "new-old stock" master cylinder that was installed. No improvement.

He observed that the "brake light warning switch" seemed to be leaking. It was replaced with an overpriced after-market unit. No improvement. And question if in fact the replacement unit was defective because it seemed to leak.

Completely by-passed the Sure-Trac system. No improvement.

Rear brakes have been adjusted properly, calipers centered properly, booster rod proper length. No improvement.

System bled numerous times after various steps above; good stream. No improvement.

Installed a brand new master cylinder. SOME improvement; push peddle once and goes almost to floor, push second time and comes up pretty good. But not right.

Paul

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Greetings Paul -

If the system has been bled properly and NO air is remaining in the system the fluid would need to leak out externally and be visible if the pedal goes to the floor. However, if the master cylinder is bypassing internally the pedal will go to the floor and no leaks will be visible and the pedal can be "pumped up" somewhat only to go to the floor again if held down under pressure. Therefore because of your recent experience as you have described I would remove the master cylinder and bench test it for bypassing. You would need to bleed it and seal the outlet ports and then apply pressure to the piston in order to observe if the piston travels to the applied position or not. If it does under heavy pressure it would be bypassing as you are describing because of failed internal seals. Let us know what you find.

We should have proportioning valve parts available if you still need them.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 17, 2015

1976 Mark Headlight Switch Knob Removal & Follow Up

Hi Bill,

A year ago I began the restoration of a 76 Mark IV Black Diamond. I have been stumped as to how to remove the light switch knob. The car is equipped with auto dimming headlights. The knob does not have a notch / spring release. It appears to be a single assembly which I confirmed by browsing for replacement switches.

Any direction would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you,

Pat

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Hi Pat -

If there is no release clip between the shaft and knob, the shaft and knob must be removed as an assembly. A release button for this is located under the h/lamp switch. body. The sw. knob is pulled out to the full h/lamp on position and then this button is pressed while carefully pulling the knob and shaft out as a unit. To reinstall, carefully push the shaft back (straight) into the switch and check that it is relocked into position.The battery should be disconnected for this procedure. Do you need a new switch? If so we should have them available.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Excellent, Thank you for the quick reply. I do not know if the switch is functioning properly. If I need one or any other parts I will check with Lincoln Land first.

Pat

March 10, 2015

1962 Carburetor Questions

Hi Bill,

I have a 62 Lincoln with a non-original carburetor which needs replacing but can't find in the manuals what CFM rating it should be. Can you let me know

What you think it should be.

Regards

Dale

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Hello Dale -

We also could not find the cfm specs for your original 62 Lincoln carburetor. We contacted one of our suppliers and found out the these cfm specs. were not published by the carburetor manufacturers during these years. He advised that the cfm would have been probably 350-400cfm. What sort of carb.set up do you have on your car at the moment? If we can help with parts to restore your fuel system to original in this area please contact our office.

Sincerely,

Bill

1985 Town Car Running Issues

I've been having trouble trying to get my Lincoln to start. Bought a brand new fuel pump and still nothing. We've checked the relays and they are good. When we spray starting fluid it, it runs, but when we stop spraying it quits. The pump itself isn't cutting on. So I was wondering if you could help me.

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Hi Merissa -

We would be unable to tell you what is wrong from here without some serious diagnosing. You will need to have someone with the correct skills, manuals and diagrams along with proper test equipment test this system for you. Unfortunately this early electronic type of fuel injection system has few parts still available for service therefore accurate diagnosis is critical. We may be able to supply you with manuals and wiring diagrams if you do not have any available to make testing easier. Correct diagrams will allow you to view the complete fuel electrical circuit in order to find and test the electrical power path for the fuel pump. Let us know if you would need any of this information.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 6, 2015

1969 Mark III Starting Issues

Good Afternoon,

I have a 1969 Lincoln Mark 3 and it's a great car but, I recently replaced the starter because it would click then eventually start as well as the solenoids and now it will start if you move around the shifter so I'm assuming it's the Neutral safety switch? I ordered one but I have never done one before, I was told it's most probably in the steering column not attached to the Transmission. I'm not sure. Can you please assist me I love my car and I just want it to fire up every time with no worries.

Thanks

Charles

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Charles -

The logical source of installation information for you is from the parts business that supplied you with that part. Lincoln Land is a business that supplies parts and service for collectors of older Lincolns and we try to assist our loyal parts and service customers as much as possible. Surely you don't expect Lincoln Land to spend our valuable time and resources to provide you with instruction and information regarding the installation of parts that you have purchased from some other supplier. It appears that as of this time we are not the supplier of this part or any other parts to you. Future self service of your Mark III will be much easier for you if you invest in a Shop Manual as well. These manuals are a real asset and will show the location (usually with drawings) and replacement instructions along with adjustments for parts such as this. If we can assist you with any parts and service etc. along with our wealth of installation tips for these parts in the future please contact our office.

Sincerely,

Bill

1962 - 1965 Seat & Window Gear Lubrication

Bill -

In reading your blog (thanks for all the valuable info & insights) you have referred to cleaning and lubricating seat and window gear mechanisms.

Could you elaborate on the preferred lubricant?

Lincoln forum posts have suggested a PTFE lubricant, such as Super Lube. We are then faced with choosing between a multi-purpose grease, an extreme pressure/hi-temp or a silicone lubricating grease.

Thanks for your input.

Kind regards,

Bill Payne
American Limousine, LLC

Charlotte, NC​

704.576.5309

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Sir -

We liberally coat the gear mechanisms inside with chassis/wheel bearing grease.

Bill

March 3, 2015

1963 Continental Carburetor Question

Hey Bill!

What carburetor do you recommend for a 63 Continental?

I saw somewhere that they came with Carter AFB 4V but not sure if it's a 600 or 750. My mechanic thinks that a 600 is too small.

Any suggestions?

Thank You,

Matt

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Hi Matt -

We have no issues at all with the carter 600 cfm AFB 4bbl that FoMoCo chose for that engine therefore substitute carburetor installation is extremely rare at Lincoln Land. A good original is more than ample but if you want or need a new carburetor we would advise the Edelbrock 1406 for these engines as they are almost the same carburetor in appearance and are also 600 cfm. A factory new carburetor solves all of the wear issues that may be present in even a good rebuilt carburetor and many collector car owners are very pleased with them.

It would take more than anyone merely "thinking" that a 600 cfm carburetor is too small and was the wrong choice by Lincoln for the necessary fuel requirements and smooth performance in their luxury automobiles to cause me to believe that a 750 cfm is the way to go. However I am sure that a 750 cfm would be available if you should desire to experiment.

Sincerely,

Bill