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February 27, 2015

1963 Flywheel Questions

Hi Bill,

Thank you first off for helping us all with your wealth of knowledge!

I recently purchased a 63 continental that had been sitting for about 13 years. After flushing the fuel system and rebuilding the carburetor it was time to add a battery and see if she would fire (of course I checked fluids and if the motor turned etc). When I hit the ignition the starter sounded awful but it started and ran with about half a crank, ran smooth and quiet. I then moved to addressing the starter issue, I found the starter bendix gear to be worn badly so I ordered a new starter and installed. In doing so I noticed that clearly the motor and trans had been separated at some point in the past. I tried the new starter same horrible noise and again it started, this time while running I viewed the flywheel and could see a really bad wobble so I shut it down, I pulled the tranny and slid it back to access the flywheel and found the reason for the wobble, whoever installed it before did not line up the TQ drain bolts? With the proper recess in the flywheel. I excitedly fixed this issue and bolted everything back together positive I had solved my issues! It all appears straight while manually turning the flywheel checking against the starter housing but still makes that loud grinding noise when starting.

So to my question. I counted the teeth on my flywheel thinking maybe it had been changed and what I counted twice (using a sharpee to mark) are 169 teeth.... I can't find anywhere how many teeth the stock flywheel should have. I see that a replacement from a 66 has 164 and uses matching year starter. Any suggestions? I'm at a loss.

Oh and the starter noise is not like that of a starter in need of shimming it sounds more like forgetting to use the clutch on a stick shift ouch!

Thank you sir!

Brent

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Greetings Brent -

Because of your recent experience with the flywheel installation there could have been other errors in the engine installation. Have you checked for the presence of the bell housing plate and the reinforcement ring (at the flywheel)? Is it possible that the flywheel is now cracked? I would examine these possibilities first. If necessary call our office and ask to speak to Al for further advice as he has advised me that the number of teeth should not cause what you are now experiencing.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 23, 2015

1966 Continental Brake Issues

Hi Bill -

My name is Doug and I have a 1966 Lincoln Continental I'm restoring for my father in law, his dad bought the car brand new. We put all brand new brakes on the car (brake lines, calipers, pads, shoes, wheel cylinders, two reservoir master cylinder and adjustable proportion valve). We have bled the brakes and got all the air out of the system but for some reason the pedal is soft and pretty much goes to the floor. We ran the car and moved it, the brakes stopped it but not very good, I had to keep pumping them up. Anything else I can do or check? Thanks in advance for your help!

Sincerely,

Doug

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Greetings Doug -

Assuming that all of the parts that you have replaced have been installed correctly and the system has been bled properly I can suggest two items to check. The first is that the rear drum brake shoes have been given an initial adjustment. This is necessary when new brake shoes have been installed. After that they will adjust themselves as the vehicle is driven.

The second is the fact that you need to keep pumping up the brake pedal to get any braking action. This would normally indicate a failed master cylinder if the brakes have been bled correctly and no leaks exist. In your case though, you indicate that you have replaced the single reservoir master cylinder with a dual reservoir unit along with an adjustable proportioning valve. Upgrading from a single to a dual reservoir cylinder can sometimes cause some initial problems if certain correct parts are not used and some important procedures are not followed. If these upgrades were purchased from us at Lincoln Land please call our office and ask your sales person if you can speak to Al. He will review the parts that were shipped to you and offer some advice if necessary in order to solve a possible problem in this upgrade area. If these upgrade items are not our product you will need to contact your supplier. Of course do not drive the car in this condition. Let us know what you find and if we can help you further, please contact us.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 19, 2015

2000 Town Car Air Suspension Questions

Hi Bill,

I wondered if you could help me with a problem that I have with my 2000 Town Car? When I start it up, the Air Suspension light is always on. I discovered that by flicking the switch in the trunk on and off, it eventually put the light out and the air suspension then worked as normal until I turned the engine off and restarted it. Sometimes, I had to flick it on and off 6 times, on other occasions, it must have been over 100 times. I figured that the switch was faulty, so ordered another switch, but it was still the same.

I then discovered that if I removed the switch, and joined the 2 bare wires together, then the light always went out first time. After I turn the engine off and restart it, the light comes back on and I need to move the 2 bare wires apart then wind them together again to put the light back off...

I'm in Scotland, so it's not easy to find anyone with diagnostics for it.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Craig

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Greetings Craig -

I can understand that owning and maintaining an American luxury car in Scotland can be a challenge for you. Most electronic concerns such as yours are usually dealt with at Dealers with the proper FoMoCo authorized diagnostic equipment. Since none of our staff at Lincoln Land has experienced your exact problem with any of our customers vehicles we can only offer you the section of the factory shop manual that deals with the automatic air spring suspension. Having the complete Manual set would be a great asset for you to have over there for this and possible future issues with your Lincoln.

You have already replaced the switch in the trunk and seemed to have eliminated that item as a possible fault so it is possible that the control module or a lazy relay is the culprit. We are fortunate here in that we are able to test these kinds of electronic control problems with good used parts that we usually have on hand. If you cannot locate a Dealer or a shop with the necessary test equipment we are willing to work with you in any way that we can. For further information on any manuals and literature etc. please contact George at our office and he will arrange this for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 17, 2015

1968 Ticking Noise

Hi Bill,

I'm a 23 year old who always loved these Continentals, so I just traded up for a 1968 Lincoln Continental with the original 462 v8 in it, The odometer reads 28k and the car still has the original paint from 1968 on it in good condition.

I have been driving it and it runs and drives beautiful, the problem I am having is a ticking/tapping noise that comes from the engine that gets louder when you rev the engine. I was told a lifter might have to be adjusted or I might need new valves but those were just opinions some people gave me without looking in the engine. I want to continue driving it but I don't want to risk blowing the engine.

Where do you think I should start with this fix? Thanks so much!

Austin

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Austin -

The car looks to be in great shape. After you have checked the oil level you should remove the valve cover on the side of the engine that the noise seems to be coming from. Someone with automotive skills should then try to pinpoint the exact location of the tapping noise if possible. They would be looking for a bent pushrod, damaged rocker or valve parts etc. You may have a bent pushrod from the engine sitting and not started for a long period of time. If you are not experienced enough to do this yourself you should have someone with experience in these matters check it for you. This diagnosis must be done with someone on scene with the car to be accurate. Proper diagnosis may lead to an easy fix for you or further internal issues such as sticky valves or lifter problems etc. Let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 16, 2015

1965 Lincoln Continental Ticking

Bill -

I have a 1965 Lincoln Continental and have a ticking noise coming from the engine when running.

Thanks -

Joel
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Hi Joel -

You have advised us that you have a ticking noise from your engine when running. Interesting! I am not sure though if you have a question or are just letting us know about this. In any case, from the great lack of information that you have provided , if the ticking noise is not heard with the engine off I would of course agree that this noise is probably from within the engine. Have you at least opened the engine hood and checked the oil level and condition? What have you checked so far ?

Bill

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1963 Continental Transmission Questions

Hello Bill.

Thanks Again for all of the info! I have a couple/few questions I hope you can clear up for me...

When checking the transmission fluid level - should the fluid level be checked when the car/fluid is cold and the car is off or with the car running and at operating temp? If running and at operating temperature - should the car be in neutral or drive when checking fluid level?

What are the main issues with too much transmission fluid? I always here that is important not to overfill? What if you overfill "a little" while filling?

Is there any "issues" or negatives with this transmission to using products like Lucas transmission stop leak - stop slip if leaks and or any slippage occurs?

Main issue is the transmission has just been serviced (by a reputable company that specializes in classic cars - fluid change, new filter, new gasket) and over the past few times driving the car reverse is not positively engaging "quickly" as it should. When selecting reverse it is pausing from a few seconds to as much as 10-15 seconds before
reverse engages. This happened previously (before transmission service) and was "corrected" by adding more fluid (transmission was leaking pretty badly before service - still leaking a little even after service and gasket replacement). I think when the car was
returned from service the transmission was not completely filled? Other than that the transmission seems to operate just fine. 83000 original miles...

Regarding fuel (octane) - what fuel grade was the engine designed for?
Should I be purchasing Regular 87 - Mid 89 - or Premium 91/93? Should
I be adding lead substitute or additives for the ethanol?

Thanks Again!

Robert

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Hi Robert -

The transmission level should be checked with the engine idling and at full operating temperature with the transmission selector safely in the Park position. A transmission that will not engage into gear immediately sounds like it may have internal seal leaks. For all of your other transmission questions you should consult with the technicians who have serviced or overhauled it and who are warrantying their work.

The engine in your 1963 Lincoln is a high compression engine that is designed to take advantage of the highest octane of fuel. I would recommend using nothing less. As for fuel, engine and transmission additives or lead substitutes etc., there are hundreds of these types of products available and thousands of opinions. Some of these products do actually help in my opinion but some are added too late to an engine or a transmission in an effort to eliminate a needed repair. Many additives can sometimes delay a repair and some only serve to make the owners "feel good" that they are "taking care " of their vehicle. I personally do not use any in my vehicles that range in age from 1954-1995 therefore I cannot offer a fair or helpful opinion in that matter.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 13, 2015

1963 Coolant Issues

Hey Bill!

Lincoln Land is awesome and your blog is a gift to Lincoln owners!

I'm having an issue with my cooling system that maybe you can shed some light on.

When I run the car for 10 minutes or so then shut it off coolant comes pouring out of a pencil width hole under the reservoir cap. I know there used to be a 90degree pipe that pointed down but must have broken off with the previous owner.

Any idea why the coolant would pour out of that hole when the car has been running for a while?

The previous owner said he replaced the thermostat. When I bought the car I drained the radiator and refilled the coolant.

Thanks for your help!

Matt

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Hi Matt -

It is normal for a cooling system level to expand and expel air and some coolant after a drain and refill as the engine is restarted and heats to operating temperature. After the initial start up and the engine is run up to operating temperature the cooling system level is then readjusted by the technician. The overflow tube that you are missing is necessary to direct the coolant overflow downward to avoid spilling on to engine electrical and ignition parts etc. Parts that help to govern the cooling system operation at this point are the radiator cap and the thermostat itself. They must be in good working order. After the coolant is finally readjusted and cools down once more the level will be lower in the system so that when it is restarted there should be no more expelling of the coolant. If you need parts to correct your cooling system such as the expansion tank, we have them available.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 12, 2015

1976 Town Car Headlight Questions

Hello Bill -

I purchased a 1976 Continental Town Car about 2 years ago. I am the third owner. The headlights started to give me issues in the fall. I have had two issues and am wondering if the switches are starting to fail. It had a bad voltage regulator. Just recently replaced that.

First problem. When i pull the headlight switch all the way out everything opens up and comes on, however when the lights are on in the "low beam" function i noticed the high beam bulbs have an orange glow in the center. The low beam bulbs work fine. When i click the dimmer switch to turn the high beams on, the passengers side works fine, but the drivers side high beam bulb does nothing.(not even the orange glow from the low beam position) Put the dimmer switch back to low beams and the orange glow comes back. The previous owner said he replaced the dimmer switch. If he installed the wrong switch could it cause this?

Second problem. When i push the headlight switch to shut off the lights, the switch starts clicking rapidly. The lights turn off, but the headlamp doors stay open until it stops. A few times i tried to turn the lights back on and they wouldn't turn on!! This doesn't happen every time i use the lights, but it is starting to happen more often and i would like to fix it before something major happens. Am i in the midst of a failing headlight switch?? I have replaced every fuse in the car.

The switches with the auto lamp and delay are up there in price (along with the correct dimmer switch to go with it) I would like an experienced opinion before i make the investment.

Thank you very much for your time.

Ben

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Hello Ben -

I understand your view on the high prices for some of these parts as they become rare and hard to find as the years go by. The situation is even worse if some issues are diagnosed incorrectly and good parts are replaced in error.

The first part of your description strongly indicates to me that a wiring problem could exist at the headlamp Ground circuit area at the front of your Lincoln. Therefore as a first step the ground circuit should be examined carefully from each of the headlights and corrected as necessary. Also look for possible non factory wiring etc. at the same time. A factory wiring diagram would be a great asset for these kinds of problems. If you have no luck with the above advice, the circuit will need to be diagnosed with the use of the wiring diagram and a 12v test light from the headlamp switch and on to the headlamps. As stated above though a good location to start is with the headlamp ground circuit. Let us know what you find out.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 5, 2015

1969 Lincoln Shfting Issues

Bill -

I have a 1969 Lincoln that was shifting fine and now it doesn't seem to go into 3rd. I don't hear any vacuum leaks .. any suggestions?

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Hi Tom -

Before removing the transmission for an overhaul I would do the following. Check the fluid for proper level and color first. Next, inspect the transmission kickdown lever and its linkage carefully and repair if necessary. Then have the vacuum supply from the engine to the transmission modulator and the modulator itself inspected and corrected if necessary. If you are not prepared to do this yourself, have a trusted local transmission shop do it for you. The technician will also be able to road test your car for you at the same time.

Sincerely,

Bill

1969 Mark III ATC Questions

Hi Bill,

Last September, you gave me some great info to help get my AC working properly on my 1969 Mark. Unfortunately the cold weather crept up on me and I never got a chance to work on it, but when I get the chance to get started, I wanted to know this: Is there a way to manually override the temperature door (door to change from heater core to AC evaporator) so that it is always in the "COLD" position. I want to do this because I honestly believe that this part of the system in not working properly and I want to rule out the ACC control system. I'm not sure if this servo is electric or vacuum, or a combination of both but I'd like to override. I think the default position for this door would be full heat/defrost.

Thanks!

Dan

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Hello Dan -

The Automatic Climate Control system on your Mark is a complex system therefore accurate diagnosis is necessary to properly repair them to the condition that they were in when they were new.

I have found over the years that 99% of the failures are within the Control Boxes and the Servo units. Other support systems and sensors etc. can also fail but most problems can be found in the above components.

We have perfected and do offer a service to overhaul these two parts so that they operate " as new". If the rest of the system is in good working order with respect to the refrigeration system, the heating components and sensors etc. the ac/heating system will operate as it did when it left the factory after the ATC box and SERVO are overhauled.

All of the tests and operations are shown in the factory shop manuals. I recommend that you purchase one if you do not have one in order to accurately understand the system operation and diagnose your problems. If you believe that bypassing the automatic controls will aid you in some meaningful diagnosis, you will learn this also from the manual.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 4, 2015

1969 Mark III AC Control Questions

Hello Bill -

I have a great Lincoln Mark III from 1969 but I have a problem with the AC control.
It will not regulate, I have studied almost everything.

Power servo is working as it should according to the manual also the AC box.

I have found the following:

1) water valve will not close,must be close in OFF state.Valve OK
2) Recirculation does not open in High.Valve OK

But I have found something there is No minus at terminal 14 yellow wire red connector in the AC Box. On the diagram I send you. Can you tell me where I find "ENGINE THERM. SWITCH" as shown in the diagram on on the Car.

I am interested in buying a El diagram of the vehicle.

Yours sincerely

Steen in Denmark

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Greetings Steen -

To answer your various questions, we have found that the manual is incorrect regarding the water valve operation. This valve will be normally be open in the OFF position ( no vacuum ). If the engine was turned off however with the ac in the full cooling mode in High position it may receive vacuum and remain closed for a period of time.

The recirc. door vacuum motor will only receive vacuum in the High position and when the system has driven to the FULL cooling mode. When the system begins to modulate from the full cooling mode as the interior becomes cooler, the recirc. door motor will be vented and the door will open to fresh air.

The engine coolant thermal switch on the 1969 Marks is located on a clip that is attached to the rubber water pump bypass hose. That yellow wire will be grounded by that switch only when the coolant temperature is cold as in a cold engine. That circuit is part of the cold engine blower delay feature that operates in the High and Low switch setting and when the system is operating in the heat mode only. On later Marks ( 1970 and later ) this switch is located integral with the engine temperature gauge switch.

Sincerely,

Bill

1961 Continental Window Issues

Hey Bill,

I was just looking to get your thoughts on a 1961 continental that I have just purchased. All the power windows work except for the right rear. It will roll down from the master switch and the switch at the door, but it will not roll up from either switch. I have swapped switches from the other rear door but still does not roll up at the right rear. Any thoughts on where to look next?

Thanks I appreciate your time.

Eric

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Hi Eric -

The 1961 Lincoln Continental is a real nice vehicle to have. They are well thought of by car collectors around the world.

The best advice that I can give to anyone who has recently purchased an older car and is planning on performing their own maintenance and repairs is to purchase a factory Shop Manual and wiring diagram for that exact year and make of car. In your case the wiring diagram will help guide you along with the use of a 12v test light to correctly follow the power path for the power window circuit in order to accurately diagnose the problem. If your 61 is a convertible it will have the automatic rear window dropping feature that lowers the window when any rear door is open. The rear window circuit in a convertible can be two or three times as complicated as a sedan. The manual and wiring diagram will show you the operation of the switches and location of the various breakers and any relays etc. Therefore attempting to pinpoint a problem without a wiring diagram and not knowing how and when the power window motors receive power and how the circuits are grounded will usually be frustrating and time consuming. Your issue could be as simple as a broken wire or a failure with any one of the many switches or relays etc. therefore accurate diagnosing is the key to success here. One tip to consider is that unlike the newer p/w motors with two wires these older style motors can fail in one direction only. If we can help you further with any parts that you may require etc. please contact us further.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 3, 2015

1979 Mark V AC & Bulb Replacement Questions

Bill -

I have a 79 Mark V. The first problem is I only get heat out of the defrost no matter what the Heat /AC is set on. The second Is the light on the radio dial has stopped working and I'm wondering how replace that light bulb.

Matt

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Hi Matt -

On your 1979 Mark V loss of vacuum to the Climate Control system will cause the system to default to Maximum heat and Defrost only at any control setting. If this sounds like your problem, checking the vacuum supply to this system is a good place to start.

To change the light bulb or bulbs in the radio will require the radio to be removed from the dash and the panel or panels removed in order to gain access to the bulbs.

Sincerely,

Bill