" /> Bill's Corner: December 2014 Archives

« November 2014 | Main | January 2015 »

December 29, 2014

1971 Mark III Power Steering Leak

Bill,

I am experiencing minor power steering fluid leaks on my 71 Mark III. I am assuming that the fluid path starts through the hose with the metal tubing between the pump and the steering box and then through the wiper motor. From there, another hose with a one metal fitting on the wiper motor connects to a cooler with a regular hose clamp. Finally, another hose without any metal tubing connects the cooler to the lower section of the pump. Is this what is referred to as the return hose? I seem to be experiencing most of the leakage from this last rubber hose connection at the pump, with some minor residue seeping through both of the hoses where they connect to the cooler. None of the other threaded connections are leaking, but there is slight fluid residue seeping out of the rubber-to-metal connections on the other hoses.

I have reviewed the shop manual and not found much guidance, so I'm interested in knowing if changing the all-rubber hose is as easy as taking it off and replacing it with a high likelihood of sealing the most significant leak. Also, if I decide to change all the hoses, is there a trick to disconnecting them from the wiper motor? They are so tight, I'm afraid to put any more pressure for fear of damaging the wiper motor or its fittings.


Bradley

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Greetings Bradley -

The power steering return hoses at some of the pumps and coolers usually have clamps that are similar to heater hose clamps that can be tightened to correct most seepage or leaks. If not or if the hose is deteriorated, the hose assembly will need to be replaced as a unit. There is no real " trick " to removing the other hoses and steel lines from the system. It is a good idea to use quality open end wrenches or line wrenches in some cases and to definitely use a back up wrench in the appropriate locations to avoid twisting and ruining other components that the lines are attached to. You should position yourself in the best comfortable area to have excellent leverage and control of the wrenches in order to initially " break" the coupling loose. They may be very tight because they may have been on there for a long while or a previous owner or his mechanic may have over tightened them.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 22, 2014

1969 Mark Running Issues

Bill,

I recently scored a 69 Lincoln Mark III from a friend of mine. When I got the car it wasn't running. I replaced the majority of ignition components and jumped the neutral safety switch because it was broken (this is only temporary). I have also dropped the tank and cleaned out the fuel lines. I recently had the car purring like a kitten until a few days ago when it started to sputter, and now it won't stay running or even start at all. I'm thinking it may be a relay or faulty wire from the ignition relay to the ignition coil because when I crank the car over it gets an intermittent spark not consistent enough to start it. Is their a relay coil or fusible link that I should check to get my sex cat back on the road? I love this car I didn't pay a dime for it and my friend gave it to me because he didn't have the money to make it live. Any information on this will be greatly appreciated from one Lincoln lover to a other.

Sincerely,

Christopher

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Christopher -

If you believe that you have an ignition feed wire problem you will need to trace this specific circuit. For this you will need the correct wiring diagram. Do you have the wiring schematic for this vehicle. The ignition coil receives power when cranking and starting from the starter relay. After starting and when you release the key it then receives reduced voltage power through a resistor wire from the ignition switch that is located under the dash and is somewhat hidden within the wiring assembly. This is why the wiring diagram is necessary to trace the power path. Let us know if you would need the shop manual or wiring diagram.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 11, 2014

1966 Continental Lighting And Brake Issues

Hi Bill,

I have a 1966 Lincoln that is having an issue with the brake lights and turn signals. When the brake peddle is depressed the brake lights don't work but if you turn on emergency flashers the and turn the tune signal in a direction the rear light will blink in that direction. The turn signals will not work in any way except when you do this. Also I have a problem with the brake peddle sticking to the floor when you depress it brakes work fine and it has new hoses and master cylinder.

Thanks,

Tanner

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello Tanner -

The 66 Lincoln turn signal system is unique to that year and electrically more complicated than previous years and later years. In addition the vehicles built with the tilt steering wheel option use some different parts. Your description of the issues of your turn signals and brake lights cannot lead me to pinpoint a certain fault in any particular part because of the numerous possibilities and the possibility of more than one problem. We have posted several previous replies on the blog dealing with problems such as this and they all lead to this same advice. You or your technician will need to trace the power path of the circuit involved with the use of the correct shop manual and wiring diagram along with a 12 volt test light. Understanding of how the circuit operates and some electrical skills is also a requirement. One extra tip that I can give you is to deal with the easiest part of the issue first. In your case it should be the brake light circuit.

Your brake issue is confusing in that you state that when you apply the brake pedal the brakes work fine and then you say that the pedal sticks to the floor! This is not indicative of good operating hydraulic brakes. The possibilities here are several because I do not know what parts have been installed on the vehicle or if you have purchased these brake parts from us. You could have been using some incorrect parts, the booster could be faulty and sticking or there may even be some missing part etc. We also do not know if your master cylinder has been converted to the safer dual cylinder (as many have) or if the complete system is original. If you have additional information for us we may be able to help somewhat further at this end.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 8, 2014

1975 Mark Seat Track Clean Up And Lubrication

Good afternoon Bill,

I'm cleaning up and upgrading the interior of my 75. I was wondering what solvent(s) are safe to use to clean up the power seat tracks (get rid of all the old grease, grime, etc.) to avoid hurting anything. The grease is pretty dried out. Also, if there is a preferable grease once I get them cleaned up?

Thanks for any help you can provide.

Jim

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


Hi Jim -

At Lincoln Land when the power seat drives are encrusted with dry grease they are completely disassembled and scraped down and then washed with regular solvent. The remaining solvent is immediately washed away with a strong all purpose cleaner and then blow dried out. Many of the parts are even sand blasted before re-assembly and re-greasing. For greasing we use a good quality wheel bearing grease. The idea is to get rid of all the old grease etc. before re-greasing.

Sincerely,

Bill

1977 Mark V Electrical Questions

Hi Bill -

I am from Germany, I try to help a friend of mine who drives a 1977 Lincoln Continental. He has Problem with the electrical system. I thought it was the Generator. So I remove it and give it to a specialist near my hometown. But he test it and told me the generator is absolute OK and said it must be the generator regulator.

Till today I had never heard, that it could be separated from the generator. I told the specialist to look for this one because he needs to see it to order a new one.
So I search the engine compartment for this part but I didn't find it. I look along the wires from battery and generator but there is no part like he told me to find.

Is it possible that you help me? Is it right that there is an external regulator? Maybe it is in the driver's cab?

Many thanks in advance for your help and sorry for my english.

Greetings from good old Germany

Stephan

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Greetings Stephan -

The voltage regulator for the 1977 Mark V is located under the hood in front of and just outboard of the battery. The operation and testing information is well outlined in the Shop Manuals. Your friend should really invest in a set of Shop Manuals in order to maintain that Mark in Germany. The automotive electrical shop would probably appreciate information from these manuals as well. If we can help you further with manuals or any needed parts please get in touch with our office.

Sincerely,

Bill

1997 Town Car Windshield Washer Issues

Hi Bill,

Surfed into your blog site and thought you might have a quick answer for me.

Last Monday I had a new windshield installed on my 97 Town Car. Prior to that date the washer worked more or less. (The switch is hit or miss but it did work if I held my mouth just right!)

It's been cold and dry this week so I've had no need of washing of the windscreen. Today I try and, while I can hear the clicking of the pump, no fluid is sprayed. The nozzles are clear and the reservoir is 3/4 full.

My question is, in order to replace the glass it looks like the shop would have to remove some of the cowling that covers the glass frame. I could be wrong, but I'm guessing the washer system would have had to be dismantled to some degree as well. If they fumbled the job and the hoses are disconnected, I'll not likely be able to fix it.

Before I charge them with a botched job... beyond not vacuuming the crap that fell all over the dash during the job or the hand prints on the glass when they "finished"... is it possible that they didn't hook up the washer system as well?

Thanks in advance

Dave

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Dave -

To answer your question ....yes it is possible that the washer hoses have become disconnected during the w/s replacement. If the rest of the system is working as designed though, washer fluid should then be exiting under the vehicle near any suspected disconnect. I am sure that your glass shop would be happy to look into that area of concern for you when you explain the situation to them. However, your first paragraph strongly indicates a previously existing further problem. If the issue is not merely or only a disconnected hose, the washer circuit will need to be diagnosed further as per the Shop Manual and wiring diagrams. It is really a simple system and you may have a weak failing pump, an intermittent electrical circuit or further hose problems etc. W/S washers are needed in Minnetonka. Good luck to you with a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

December 1, 2014

1995 Town Car Battery Going Dead

Hi Bill -

My battery goes flat over night???? But not all the time (it's a new battery) and it has gradually gotten worse, when I put it in park turn it of and remove the key the radio will stay on, the gear shift is/was lose, thought this maybe the problem after some research, it was suggested that the Torx screw under the steering wheel may need tightening, done that the gear shift is now ok, but the battery problem seems to have gotten worse, wondering aloud did I tighten the screw to much, or is the problem elsewhere.

Regards

John

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

John -

The radio will normally time out after a period of time or if the door is opened. We have seen worn out bushings and loose parts in the steering column that cause wires to pinch and subsequently cause issues. If you suspect a problem in the steering column ( and you seem to believe that there is a problem in this area ) I would suggest that you inspect it thoroughly or locate and unplug each wiring harness that leads up into the column separately overnight for several nights as a test to pinpoint the problem. If you do pinpoint a certain wire plug, you will then need to inspect that circuit in the column. This might seem time consuming but the alternative is to take the car to an electrical automotive shop for diagnosis.

Sincerely,

Bill

1991 Continental Low Pressure Alarm

Hi Bill,

I have a 1991 Continental, It has 142K miles.

The Low Oil Pressure Alarm beeps most of the time. I went to NAPA and bought a new oil pressure sensor but for the life of me I can't locate it on engine.

I have searched the internet and no one has the answer.

I have seen items on the internet that the Low Oil Pressure Alarm is a false alarm and just to ignore it, but it is annoying to say the least.

Can you Help?


Steve W.

Weddington, NC

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello Steve -

The oil pressure sensor switch on a 1991 FWD 3.6 L engine should be located at the right front of the engine according to our wiring diagram. The wire color should be white with a red stripe. If replacing it does not stop the low pressure warning condition a master oil pressure gauge must be installed temporarily at this location in order to test the engine oil pressure with the engine at normal operating temperature. If this test proves that the engine does indeed have low oil pressure, the engine must be serviced to correct the low oil pressure. If the oil pressure is within specifications, then it is time to diagnose the electronics for a faulty module, computer or contact etc. This should be performed only by a competent automotive electrical shop with the necessary test equipment and maintenance manuals. Unfortunately this repair could be costly for parts and labor on this 1991 Continental because parts if needed are also usually difficult to locate for these electronics as the vehicles age.

Sincerely,

Bill