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February 26, 2014

1979 Mark V Constant Heat

Hello Bill,

I purchased a 79 Mark V about 4 months ago and it has been what you might call a light to moderate restoration. Most cosmetic and mechanical issues have been addressed, but one remains, and it will shortly be more of an issue than it has thus far - it blows heat out all the time. Here is what I can tell you:

If you turn the climate control off, you get just a trace of heat. With any other setting heat comes out of the vents on the top of the dash by the windshield. If you put it on the A/C setting the compressor does come on, and I checked today and it's fully (or adequately) charged, and the metal parts of the A/C line get ice cold - so it seems to be 'compressing.' It's been converted to 134A. I replaced the heater control valve. That is a side note in that what I received was not the same as the one that came on it; the one that came on it had an external spring-loaded mechanism, and the one I received must have the moving part inside only (both vacuum activated). Not very technical but the new one is shaped like a cactus with the input and output as the 'limbs' - I wonder if those types are interchangeable? The supplier says 'yes.' In any event, would all of that give you enough to speculate as to a likely cause? The climate control unit?

Many thanks in advance.

Holt in NC.

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Greetings Holt -

The AC system in your Lincoln is of the "semi automatic" type that will default to the heat mode and defrost in the event of vacuum loss. You state that "in any setting heat comes out by vents at the windshield at the top of the dash". If this is so and you have no directional control of the air flow with maximum heat at the defrost ducts then I would be diagnosing for complete loss of vacuum to the a/c heat control system. However if the system was locked on heat with correct air directional control settings I would be looking at the Sensor unit behind the dash above the glove box. Are you working on this system without the necessary shop manuals? Correct manuals are needed in order to be accurate with diagnosis and to avoid wasting time and money on unnecessary parts replacement.

The water valve only closes with vacuum for maximum a/c requirements and therefore is known as a "normally open" type. It will therefore be open with no vacuum. I do not know what type you have now installed on your car but it may be o/k and work fine. We do recommend and can supply to you the correct FoMoCo unit that we have in stock at Lincoln Land . If you find that you need the correct Shop Manuals or any parts for the repair please do not hesitate to contact us further at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 21, 2014

1966 Continental Continues To Run After Ignition Is Shut Off

Hello Bill,

I have a issue with my ignition sometimes when I turn my vehicle off it will continue to run.

Thanks,

Darryl

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Hi Darryl -

When you state that the engine does not shut off, do you mean that it diesels and stumbles also known as" run on" or that it runs smooth and normally when the key is in the off position? If it stumbles, shakes and then finally shuts off, this is usually caused by too fast of an idle (maladjusted or sticking carburetor etc.) Let us know which condition that you have.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 20, 2014

1995 Continental Running Issues

Bill -

I have a 1995 Lincoln Continental that started running a little bit rough at the beginning then one day just died going down the road at 65 miles an hour. We've got it home and have been trying to work on it for a couple of weeks now and we got it to start this morning but as soon as you give it gas it dies. We removed the hose from the fuel tank on the backside of the fuel pump and we turn the key on it did squirt gas out quite a bit then we removed it on the fuel filter side to see if maybe the filter was clogged and it squirted gas out quite a bit. We removed the cap off the fuel valve on the motor area and gas up there when you push the little valve down gas comes out. Please help this frustrated single Mom of 2 Boys.

Lanesia

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Hi Lanesia -

Because of the sophisticated engine management electronic controls that your vehicle has, the diagnosis needs to be performed as per the Shop Manual with the proper testing equipment. You may be dollars ahead to have a good local shop at your location look into this for you. Many dollars and much time can be wasted by guessing and replacing parts that are not faulty. This is truly a hands on procedure performed by a technician who is familiar with this electronic equipment. The technician will discuss the cars maintenance history etc. with you before beginning the diagnosis in order to be accurate.

Sincerely -

Bill

1970 Mark III Restart Issues

Hi Bill,

We recently purchased a 1970 Mark III. It has 50,900 original miles runs great. However, we drove the car for approximately 10 miles, we parked and tried to restart the car approximately 15 minutes later and the car would not start. That battery is fine, but the Mark III still would not start.

Also, there is a mild clinking sound when you turn the ignition switch, but there is still no indications that the car is about to start. About an hour later, the car started perfectly. I assumed the starter was malfunctioning so I bought a new starter and changed it. The car started perfectly quite a few times back to back. I let it run for awhile in park for about twenty minutes and then I cut it off. I attempted to start the car again immediately after shut off and again, it would not start. Only the mild clinking noise when the ignition is fully engaged. There also seemed to be a mild burning odor this time. The car sat for a while and then started flawlessly.

Bill, can you help?

Thanks!

Ahkemon and Stacie

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Greetings Ahkemon -

Your key statement " There seems to be a mild burning odor this time " is where I would start. Burning electrical odors are an indications of bad connections. The battery and ALL of the associated cables need to be carefully inspected and replaced as necessary. The battery even though it appears to be o/k should be fully charged and load tested etc. with the proper test equipment. Battery condition has fooled many a mechanic. Let us know what you find and if you need further help or any parts.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 3, 2014

1971 Mark III Fuel Gauge - Sending Unit Questions

Hi Bill,

You are a great wealth of knowledge and a necessity to our Lincoln culture. I have a question about my fuel gauge, I had a new sending unit installed because the gauge would not read "full". After it was installed everything worked but yesterday when I started the car the gauge went to full then down past empty stayed there for a few minutes then went to half and now wont go back to full. The car has a full tank of fuel and I was wondering what would cause this. I have the repair manuals but not sure were to start trouble shooting.

Thank you in advance!!

Alec

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Alec -

Assuming that your new fuel sending unit is o/k I would safely raise the vehicle and tighten each of the female connector pins in the plug at the sending unit. These can be tightened separately by squeezing them one at a time to slightly make them oval. One of the wires will lead to a ground connection which also can be checked for tightness at this time. If this does not immediately correct the issue, the wiring from the tank to the instrument gauge, the gauge itself or the new tank unit could be faulty. But if you feel that your sending unit is faulty - contact your supplier. Good luck to you with an easy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

1969 Lincoln Shuts Off After Seven To Twelve Miles & Update

Hello Bill,

I have been reading your advice for some time, I don't know anyone else that comes close to your wisdom!

I'm hoping you can help me. I have a 1969 Lincoln Continental with 19,000.00 miles. I bought it from friends who are the original owners. The car sat in a warehouse most of its life. The last 7 years not much activity at all. I bought it and started driving it 3 months ago. It's had minor issues I've had to deal with, but nothing major. Now, in the last two weeks, it will start and run fine for about 7 to 12 miles then shut down. This can happen while I'm driving at speed, slowing down or at a stop, no consistency except the 7 to 12 miles. The carburetor does have some issues and has been recently rebuilt. So, that was my first thought. I checked and made sure its getting fuel. I also sprayed starting fluid into the carburetor, no response at all. I started checking and trying to eliminate electrical possibilities. I've replaced the battery, coil ( Pertronix flame-thrower III ), points and condenser ( Pertronix Ignitor III ), spark plug wires ( Ford Racing 9mm ), spark plugs ( NGK V-Power ), distributor cap and rotor. I've checked the timing It was around 20 degrees BTDC. I set it to 10 degrees BTDC. The engine runs awesome with all the new parts, It just won't stay running! Is it possible it could be the regulator or alternator? Please help!

Thank you sir!

Frankie

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Frankie -

We're glad that you enjoy the blog. You don't tell us how you get the engine started again after a shut down but if the carb. is absolutely receiving enough fuel at this stall event and all of your mentioned tune up items are correct and up to par then I would temporarily install a test light on the Pertronix feed wire under the hood. If you are losing power here when it shuts down you will then know that the power from the ignition switch to the Pertronix system is faulty. If the power to the ignition stays on with this test when the engine stops then you need to immediately test for spark at the plugs. If there is no spark at this time while cranking the engine, the Pertronix components will be suspect. Pertronix may have a tech. line for you to call, their contact info is below...

Sincerely,

Bill

PerTronix, Inc.
440 East Arrow Highway
San Dimas, CA 91773
Phone: (909) 547-9058
Fax: (909) 599-6424

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Bill,

Thank you for answering my question! The engine will start after it has sat and cooled for 1 to 2 hrs. The stalling started before I added any of the new items ( Pertronix, etc..) and continues with the new items. The car runs a lot better with the new items, but it still stalls after a short drive.

On a side note, what would you recommend setting the timing too with the new aftermarket items? What carburetor would you recommend? I'm not looking to hot rod. I would like a good dependable solid carburetor with improved mpg and efficiency. Am I wish full think? Lol

Thanks,

Frankie

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Frankie -

I always set the timing at the factory recommended specifications for a 60's 460 cid vehicle (6-10 degrees). If the damper pulley where the timing marks are located has loosened and has spun on the rubber damper material the timing indicator mark cannot be used with great accuracy. In any case I always road test after a tune up with the engine at operating temperature and re adjust the timing while paying attention to pinging and engine power etc. The road test is a very important part of an engine tune up. Many times because of todays poor quality fuel and low octane availability we need to tweak the timing during the final road test. The vacuum advance unit on the distributor should also be tested for operation at any time a tune up is performed. They are a very popular fail item.

Because new Motorcraft carbs. and parts are no longer available for these Lincolns, we have satisfied our customers who decide to go with a another unit by replacing their original worn carburetors with NEW ones. Please call one of our parts sales personnel for further details. If you conclude with diagnosing that your present carburetor is faulty and performing poorly a new one will be a vast improvement and well worth the expense but if you are only looking for better fuel efficiency and power than was built into these vehicles you will probably be disappointed with a new carburetor.

I would still do the electrical and fuel tests that we have suggested previously in order to diagnose and eliminate some possible causes of your stalling problem.

Sincerely,

Bill