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September 30, 2013

1966 Slipping Out Of Park - Steering Pump Issues

Bill -

My 1966 Lincoln commonly slips out of Park and I need to hold the lever up fairly hard to start the car. I was reading on your blog that this is a common fault caused by the lower steering column bushing. I looked in your catalog and can't find this part. Do you have these in stock. My car does not have tilt wheel.

Also I just put a new seal kit through my power steering pump and now the power steering does not work at all. These pumps look fairly simple and I thought I put it all together OK. There are no leaks. Could this be that it is not priming correctly. Any hints or will I need to pull it all out again?

Regards

Tony

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Hi Tony -

Slipping out of Park is an issue that you would want to correct as soon as possible. The 1964 and 1965 columns have the common lower column bushing problems. The best way to repair this issue on any vehicle though is to visually inspect all of the linkage and bushings etc. pertaining to the shifting mechanism from the transmission to the lower column and up to the shift lever blade and its PARK locking quadrant components. Contact George at our office and he will help you find an illustration on our site that will show you the linkage and column for your 66 Lincoln.

A seal kit properly installed to correct leak issues from a crank mounted P/S pump will allow the pump to operate as before providing the interior components were assembled correctly. If yours was quiet and providing sufficient pressure before the new seal installation, it should be the same but without the external leaks. If the pump was worn out internally and or noisy, new seals will not correct this. If you purchased the seal kit from Lincoln Land please call our office and ask for Al. He will discuss the issues that can occur during reassembly of these pumps. You then can decide exactly what will need to be done to correct the situation. If it is any consolation, many of the best technicians have had problems with these pumps when they replace seals or overhaul them for the first time. They can be tricky.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 27, 2013

1973 Continental Questions

Hello Bill,

I came across your contact info on an online forum about Lincolns and am hoping you might be able to help me with a problem I'm having.

I recently bought a 1973 Lincoln Continental Town Car with only 46K actual miles on it.
Car was running great until today when it suddenly started running TERRIBLE at idle and will stall out if I don't give it gas. Actually it started idling kind of rough about two days ago and has gotten progressively worse.

At first I thought I might have gotten some bad gasoline or something. Unlikely though... The car runs smooth as silk and very strong at cruising speed.

When thinking about what this problem could be, I suddenly recalled that the headlights doors have not been closing properly when I turn off the headlights. When I go to use the car in the morning after parking it over night I have noticed that the headlight doors are only partially closed. The past two days the doors have been in the open position completely.

Since the headlight doors are vacuum operated ,(which I did not know until reading the owners manual today...), I suspect that a "vacuum leak" is causing the headlight doors to malfunction and may also be the culprit for the car idling poorly and ultimately stalling out if I don't give it gas.

Do you have any thoughts or experience with this issue? Any advice you could give me will be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Adam

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Hello Adam -

Those 73 Lincolns are real nice vehicles and are even better when they are running real well. If you believe that headlamp door vacuum leaks are your problem with the rough idle we will include a H/L door vacuum diagram in this reply for you. Vacuum leaks can occur anywhere that vacuum is routed. A set of Shop Manuals should be in your future though as these are a great help in diagnosing many issues. We have previously addressed Vacuum Headlamp door leak problems here on the blog and you may want to search some of earlier questions and replies using the search function.

Vacuum leaks can certainly upset an engine idle as you have stated but you must not overlook that the fact your carburetor may possibly be the culprit. Carburetors can accumulate fine debris from the fuel tank, floats can stick and valves can leak etc. This will upset the mixture needed for good combustion. I assume that the usual necessary "tune up" components such as ignition points and condenser, wiring and spark plugs are in good order. If you need any Shop Manuals, more advice or parts etc. be sure to contact us further.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 20, 2013

1995 Town Car Questions

Hi Bill,

First and foremost I would like to thank you for your generosity in answer questions and sharing your insight.

I just bought a nice 1995 Lincoln Town Car from a neighbor. It has only 92k and has a great drivetrain. The proverbial "little old lady" had it and I can't get much in the way of records other than it has been subjected to hail. I'm trying to find the color for it. It looks like a "burnt maroon or burgundy"??? I can't seem to find a color code or name on "the net". Any ideas if there was more than one color of this nature??

NOW THE PRIMARY QUESTION!!!

It performs great....except the steering is so touchy that it can dart if course corrections are not attended to with concentration! I see some sort of "steering-high/med/low" switch on the dash under the left side of the steering wheel. I've tried to use it but it makes no difference in the steering quality. The airbags look like they MAY be to new to the car. Possibly replaced. I saw a post concerning that was similar to mine that you answered. Would the steering be this sensitive on a stuck setting? I just can't see it being normal and selling the car to the general public.

Thanks so much for any resource of time you could spare in the matter!

Anthonny in Birmingham Alabama

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Greetings Anthonny -

The original paint color code for your 1995 town car should be shown on the drivers door jamb. Any local body shop should be able to read that code and refer to their 1995 paint code color chart for you.

The lever on the dash that you mention is to adjust the steering effort required to turn the steering wheel. This operation is described in the owners manual or the factory shop manual. However your description of your vehicle " darting" and requiring excess concentration to maintain it on course leads me to believe that you may have some steering linkage, suspension or tire problems. To assess or eliminate the possibility of issues such as this you would need to take the car to a good known front end shop in your area and have someone road test the car. They then would probably recommend a front end inspection on their front end machine. These Lincolns handle beautifully when the steering, suspension and tires are in good shape therefore I would advise you to have your car inspected as advised above as soon as possible so that you are driving safely and enjoying your Lincoln.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 16, 2013

1969 Lincoln Questions

Bill -

I'm having some issues here. Car came in for battery check and new negative cable. Since in my possession car has begun to run worse and worse. Here is what I have done and checked. Car has new reman distributor in it. Came into shop that way. Plug wire ends were falling off. I put new Motorcraft plugs in gapped at approx .034". checked points gap. corrected to .017". primary side of coil 1.7 ohms. secondary side of coil 9.64k ohms. this car will shake and shake then poof, purrs like a kitten then goes back to crap. Sometimes while running it just stops like someone turned off the key. No stumbling, just off. While it does run positive side of coil only gets 9.5v. when it stalls coil gets 6.3v. battery charge stat good 12.63v. 2.1v per cell of battery is correct?

What am I missing? I believe its electrical. When it purrs its awesome. All the power is there like a Lincoln should have. I have also disconnected all vacuum ports on motor and plugged off. Except for distributor. I have checked the vacuum advance. Works and holds vacuum. if you have any advice or wisdom, PLEASE contact me.

Sincerely,

Brian

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Brian -

Not knowing the history of the car I can offer the following suggestions based on your recent repair information. The battery ground on a 69 Continental routes from the battery to a point on the rt. front sub frame and then continues to a necessary second ground at the engine block. The 69 Continental Mark III ground is from the battery to the block only. The points setting should be checked with a dwell meter (26-31 degrees). You have installed new spark plugs but it sounds like this engine should have new high tension wires as well. I assume that the points and condenser are new and that the ignition timing is correct. The vibration dampers on these engines are known to delaminate and cause the timing marks to shift. This movement will cause a technician to unknowingly adjust the timing incorrectly. If the coil is at all suspected it is easy and a good idea to substitute a "good known one" as a test. The vacuum advance must not only hold vacuum but it also must pull and rotate the advance plate inside the distributor. Some vacuum advance rubber interiors have turned to plastic and cannot move.

Finally what is the possibility of the fuel pump being weak or delivery from the gas tank being inadequate or contaminated with fine debris and upsetting the fuel mixture in the carburetor. It is possible that some fuel tank and fuel line debris is plugging the fuel filter and or the in tank strainer while finer debris is ending up in the carburetor.

When you have completed further diagnosis and need more advice or any repair parts please contact us again.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 12, 2013

1965 Continental Exhaust And Electrical Questions

Hey Bill,

I'm having one hell of a time with my Lincoln. Got a 430, and my exhaust system is totally shot. I don't know of I should replace the stock manifolds with headers or what. And now here's the real bit...I have all matching numbers on the car. So I don't want to change anything, but don't know a good method to repair the original exhaust.

Also, I don't think my alternator is going, however my amp gauge fluctuates a lot, and my headlights/interior lights get 2-3x brighter when I rev the engine. Any help is appreciated.

Thank you,

Nathan

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Nathan -

There are some good choices for the exhaust system. A good professional exhaust technician at your location should be able to build you a real nice quiet system with mufflers and resonators as is required for these engines. If you are keeping the car and it is a nice car you could consider a bolt on complete stainless system complete with proper flanges and bends. These stainless systems usually come with a lifetime guarantee and should remain leak free and quiet for the life of the car. If you want to install headers or any type of a loud or modified system you will need to discuss this with that type of specialty exhaust supplier.

The 64/65 lincoln charging and amp gauge circuits are known to sometimes be a problem area. Much of the vehicles electrical power flows through the amp gauge and a bad connection or failure in this area can lead to severe unwanted issues. We have addressed this type of problem here on the Blog on May 13 of this year. Please search out and read that blog question and reply. If you need further advice in this matter please contact us again.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 3, 2013

1967 Continental Electrical Draw & Update

Bill,

I have read your blog, it is extremely helpful and has been useful to me as a new classic Lincoln owner. I have a question I would love your advice on. I have a 1967 Continental, it has a battery draw which I have yet to track down, from time to time I have to charge the battery if I don't use the car for a week or so. Last time, I put the charger on, and after a few minutes tried to start, it turned over but was not charged enough to start. A few hours later, i came back to try and there was no power to the car at all. I thought maybe the charger was acting up, so I put a jump box on in preparation to try and start, and the car started up without a key in it. When I pulled the box off, it cut off. I am wondering what might have failed or shorted out that would cause this behavior, any advice on where to look is greatly appreciated.

Thank You,

Jim

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Hi Jim -

You may not have a power draw when the car is not used for a week as you have stated. When you say that "the car started up without the key in it" I assume that you mean that the engine cranked and started without the key in the ignition and you rotating it to the start position. This is not uncommon and is caused by the contacts inside the starter solenoid fusing together. This fusing can be caused by a bad component in the cranking circuit and this will include bad battery cables, bad battery, bad solenoid or a starter with a very high draw etc. You will need to replace the solenoid with a high quality unit from a good known supplier (good quality is becoming difficult to find). In your case and before testing for a possible power draw from the battery the battery should be properly " fully" charged and then tested by a shop with good battery test equipment. A good shop will be able to test it for its ability to accept and hold a full charge as well as its ability to supply the proper power to the starter when it needs to. You may be surprised at the results of the battery examination even if the battery is not old. If the above proves to be in good order though the next step is to consider the age and condition of the cables and the starter motor condition. The starter motor condition can be tested and determined while installed on the engine by an automotive electrical shop as well. If all of the above is in good order and the battery is still discharging contact us again and we will provide some advice on diagnosing a power draw if you are unable to do so.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

Thanks so much for the response, I had the battery tested and it was definitely a contributing problem, I replaced it and the car is running fine. Odd because the manufacture date on the battery is November 2012. I still have a draw I need to track down, my plan is to connect a test light into the battery lead and see where the draw is coming from by removing fuses, etc.

If you have any further advice on diagnosis, I would appreciate it.

Thank you again,

Jim

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Jim -

We are glad that we were able to help with the battery issue. I assume that you have also replaced the starter solenoid that was stuck. If you are still having a power draw from the new battery it sounds like you are on the right track by eliminating suspected circuits one at a time. Two items to visibly check are the glove box light (for remaining on with the glove box door closed) and the clock. If the clock is inoperative unplug it as a test as well. A clock that is faulty and non operative could be using power in some cases. Do not allow the battery to continually discharge a large amount if you still have an ongoing power draw as this greatly affects battery life over time.

Sincerely,

Bill