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August 13, 2013

1988 Town Car Temp Control Testing Questions

Good Afternoon Bill,

Where can I find the procedure to test the temperature control on an '88 Town Car. I have full cold and full hot but nothing in between. Is there a normal cause for this? I'm thinking temp servo behind glove box, but that's only a guess.

Thanks!

- Dan

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Greetings Dan -

The operation of the Automatic Temperature Control system for you car is explained in detail in the 1988 Service Manual. The vacuum and electrical diagrams will also be shown as well as the operation and installation of each component. I myself have never heard of a 1988 Town Car system having your problem of "full cold and full hot but nothing in between" but we have seen many systems with parts that are incorrectly installed and many crossed vacuum lines that create all sorts of strange symtoms. Vacuum leaks are also common anywhere that the vacuum lines are routed and it is very common to have more than one problem. This is why the Shop Manual for correct diagnosis is a must if you are performing your own repairs. If you do not have the necessary ATC information as described above we should be able to help you out if you contact George at the Lincoln Land office and mention your question here on the blog. When you do complete some definite diagnosis we will also be able to help with the necessary parts to finish the repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 5, 2013

1979 Lincoln Continental Sedan Shimmy And Bounce Issues

Dear Bill -

Recently purchased 79 Lincoln Continental town car took to Firestone for steering wheel shimmy and tire bounce balanced tires OK, alignment was good on rear but front camber was way off. Adjusted front camber but ran out of adjustment, now sets at -1.0 degree right on right front tire toe and caster are almost perfect. Passenger side adjustment extremely close to perfect. At this time measured height of car at front wheel centers and rear ground to chrome on fender wells drivers side was approximately 3/4 to 1 inch higher front and rear wheel areas, off enough to see visually. I was told to change coil springs and possibly shocks. Changed all 4 shocks and coil springs (new MOOG springs and sensatrack shocks), installed new rear isolators and reused front upper isolators (very good shape). Still unable to align front end. Measured car same as before 3/4 to 1 inch difference, drivers side high. Tires are inflated to within 1 psi , same size tires on all 4 , tires are all same age by date on tires, parked on level ground check with 6 foot level approximately 1/8 inch down slope from front to rear . Tires are very old but height measurement pretty close at center line of wheel. Checked coil spring measurement prior to install- identical. Tire bounce corrected with wheel balance, car still shimmy's at over 50 MPH. AT A LOSS WHAT ARE WE MISSING. ANYTHING LEFT TO CHECK? I have a shop manual on order.

Thanks,

Don

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Don -

Some of these problems that you are experiencing could have been with the car for some time and may be difficult to diagnose and correct. Assuming that your present repair shop has performed all of the usual suspension inspections thoroughly and that their adjustments etc. are correct your comments regarding the left to right height measurement differences and "running out of adjustment" for camber adjustment cause me to want to know the history of the vehicle as to any previous body and or frame repair. To pursue this further you may need to visit a specialty shop capable of performing frame and body measurements properly to determine the structural integrity. Larger cities have Body and or Frame shops having this capability as well as the ability to do a good job of front end alignments.

As for the shimmy above 50mph, is this actually a shimmy or a vibration? A shimmy is usually felt at much lower speeds. In any case I would advise an inspection of the driveshaft and the u-joints. Any looseness here can cause several types of vibrations at lower and upper speeds. The driveshaft may then need to be balanced. You also state that the tires are all the same size and age. What exactly is the age and size of these tires? Even though the tires seem to balance o/k they can because of age still be separating and causing a shimmy and vibration once the vehicle is underway and at speed on the road. I should add that old unknown tires can sometimes be dangerous and costly as a result.

Sincerely,

Bill

August 2, 2013

1977 Mark V Engine Dies At Stop Or Slow Speeds

Dear Bill,

I recently bought 1977 Mark V with 9500 original miles on it !!. before I shipped it to Israel (where I live) I took it for tune up, carb rebuilt ,replace all rubber hoses, changed the Freon to R-134 etc'. yesterday I drove it from the port to my home (about 80 Miles) and all was well and smooth until I had to stop or slow for traffic, than the engine dies about 2 minutes after the stop.

Checking in the carb, there was no fuel spray, pulling the fuel hose of the carb and cranking the engine- no fuel coming to the carb. I manually sprayed fuel in to the carb and it started while I'm feeding it manually. After a minute of that the engine continued on its own until the next stop or very slow traffic.

All that happened only when the engine was hot, not at the first few minutes of driving which makes me think it's a vapor lock.

Unfortunately no one in Israel knows and understand these old cars with big V-8's and I have to fix it all myself.

If it's a vapor lock, do you think adding an electric pump on line will solve the problem?

Many thanks,

Ozer

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Ozer -

We experience no problems regarding fuel vapor lock on this era of Lincolns therefore I don't believe that an electric fuel pump is the answer to your stated problem of poor fuel delivery to the carburetor. An electric pump may alleviate the situation temporarily and only serve to "cover up" another developing failure. Assuming that the carburetor was rebuilt properly and even though the vehicle has only 9500 miles on it I would perform a complete fuel system inspection. This will include careful examination of all of the fuel lines and hoses, the fuel filter at the carb., the fuel tank pick up filter, and the tank itself for debris and proper venting. Because of your remote location to the availability of parts I would not hesitate to have a new fuel pump on hand. If it is not required now for this issue a new pump at the ready may be needed in the future. The correct Maintenance Manuals would be a great help to you and if we can help you further with any required parts or manuals please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill