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July 22, 2013

1979 Lincoln Continental Sedan Cruise & Greasing Issues

New owner of 1979 Lincoln Continental (4 door). The cruise control works fine except when the brakes are applied the cruise control is only temporarily off, once the brakes are released the car resumes speed to the last speed set. I have to turn off using button on steering wheel. Any ideas for where to look for this problem ?

Second. Had car in for service - The Mercury dealer mechanic could only find 2 grease zerks . (Of course the car is older than the mechanics working there) but I noticed some plugs where I thought grease should be going . After some research I found that earlier Lincolns had plugs to remove and lube but required a special fitting to do so.

My question is are these plugs to be removed to be lubed? if so How MANY plugs are there? What special fitting adapter is needed? Where can I get one?

Is there a lube chart showing all the lube points?

I don't want to run it dry...

Thanks,

Don

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Hi Don -

When the brake pedal is depressed and the brake lights are on the speed control should be released into a coast mode until you engage it again yourself with the steering wheel switch. If the brake light switch is not working and not releasing the speed control, the brake lights may not be operating as well. This is the first thing that you should check. If this is so the brakes will slow the car as you describe until the pedal is released and then pick up speed to where the control was previously set. If however the above is in good order (brake lights working and power is sent out to disengage the speed control when the brake pedal is depressed) you will need to perform the tests as described in the Shop Manual.

I agree with you that if the grease plugs are not removed for lubrication on any of the suspension or steering connectors these parts can run dry. Lubrication information is also shown in the shop manual but we recommend removing these plugs and permanently installing regular grease nipples.

Sincerely,

Bill

1988 Town Car Starting Issues

Hello Bill,

I'm coming to you again for your help! I've recently purchased an '88 Town Car Cartier from a Gentleman in Ohio. I've owned two in the past, and this is certainly the nicest! As my subject states, I'm having a starting issue. I'll start by saying that this issue did not exist when I picked the car up, nor throughout the day in Ohio. It started literally as soon as I got the car back to Buffalo. It is cranking excessively before it finally fires.

Let's assume that there are no vacuum leaks. The car runs like a dream once it is running. It's not like I have to sit there for ten minutes trying to start it. It cranks for about 5 seconds, nothing. Then I try once more, and boom, it starts.

I usually don't start throwing parts at the car to try and fix a problem, but I know in the past, the IAC was the culprit, so I've replaced that. I also replace the Ignition coil as the High Voltage terminal was all corroded, and upon testing determined the secondary resistance was too high. I also went ahead and replaced the cap and rotor. They looked to be quite old.

Upon putting the car in park with the AC on one day, the engine started RPM searching, eventually stalling. I restarted it and turned the idle up just enough to stop that, and for four days straight, I had no starting issues. Yesterday, all of a sudden, it started again.

I don't know if it's a faulty fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump, or what.

Any ideas?

Thank you!

Dan

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Hello Dan -

If I had recently purchased a car that was exhibiting those symptoms I would first consider the tune up history regarding high tension wiring and spark plugs. If you have no knowledge of any tune up history, the spark plugs for all you know could be worn out and have a gap way to wide to operate properly. This engine has an electronic management system and can only be diagnosed with electronic equipment by a good technician. Anything else is guessing. I would suggest starting with the spark plugs and wiring though in addition to a new fuel filter.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 16, 2013

1985 Town Car Stalling Issues

Bill -

I have an 85 Lincoln Town Car that stalls after it has been running, usually at a light or when I come to a stop. It will start back up, but it is just a matter of time and it stalls again. I have been told it is because of a recurring problem with the TBI. Please help if you can. I have taken this vehicle to a Lincoln dealer here in Troy, Michigan....spent quite a bit of money and it still occurs.

Question #2......I need a A/C Vacuum Emissions Canister...looks like a juice or coffee can....A/C stops blowing when car is accelerating on the street or freeway......

Jerry

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Hello Jerry -

Your 1985 Town Car is an early fuel injected vehicle with a sophisticated (for its time) electronic engine management system known as Central Fuel Injection. It must be diagnosed correctly as per the correct shop manual by someone willing and knowledgeable with these controls. You haven't mentioned exactly what has been tested or replaced on the car so far to correct the issue so I really couldn't hazard a guess at this point. It does however sound like an intermittent fuel or ignition problem from the information that you have provided. Unfortunately parts for these engine management controls are becoming harder to locate. I would suggest that you go on line with the " Lincolns on Line" forum and locate the section dedicated to your car. There is a good chance that you will find good information and someone close to your location who knows a mechanic in the Troy area who can diagnose your issue and save you from further aggravation. We do have access to some limited CFI parts for this car. We certainly should be able to supply you with the vacuum tank that you require. Call us and ask for George, Patti, Denise or John and they will give you the details and price etc. on this canister. Mention that you had posed this question on the Blog.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 10, 2013

1993 Town Car Cruise Control Malfunctioning

Greetings from Scotland Bill,

I need your advice in reference to the type and location of the cruise control module on my Lincoln, it has never worked since I bought the car six months ago. Any thoughts on the possible cause and remedy? Would a replacement unit still be available for a car of this age?

Any help would be greatly appreciated - I have owned a variety of American cars over the past 35 years and also have a1978 Lincoln Continental Town Car - I love them.

James Whitcombe Doig

www.imperialweddingpiper.co.uk

https://www.facebook.com/imperialweddingpiperservice


A member of Tayside Wedding Collective
www.taysideweddingcollective.co.uk

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Hello James -

Greetings to you from Lincoln Land. The speed control module is located under the hood and forward from the left hood hinge. These are known to fail but so are some of the other components in the system such as the activating cable and its connection to the throttle body. There was also a factory recall on one of the switches known as the Speed Control Deactivation Switch. This sw. on your car may never have been checked by a dealer or it may be faulty or disconnected. Because you are a long distance away from abundant parts supplies the speed control system on your car should be diagnosed as per the Shop Manual as much as possible to avoid guessing and the unnecessary replacing of components. As a beginning I would start with an under hood visual inspection for disconnected wiring and cable parts etc. If you contact a Ford dealer or an office of the Ford Motor Co. with your vehicle Identification information they will tell you if your Lincoln was ever serviced as per the above mentioned recall. If not they will advise you how to proceed in order to have this procedure performed. They can also advise if any new parts are still available. At Lincoln Land we have many good used parts available for you as well as access to the necessary shop manuals. Please contact us again when you have more accurate information on your requirements and so that we may help you further.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 8, 2013

1970 Mark III Power Window Issues & Updates

Hi Bill,

I have just purchased a 1970 Continental Mark III with 139,000 miles on it. The car is in great condition visually, structurally, and runs beautifully. There is one problem, however, the power windows. When the car has been turned off and the engine is cold or when just starting to drive it, the power windows work fine, but after driving for a while and the engine gets hot the windows stop working. It is very frustrating to say the least. I'm not positive that the temperature of the engine is the culprit, but this is just my observation. Do you have any thoughts about what could be causing this? Have you heard any similar stories or do you know any fixes? Should I try to have someone locate the problem (which may be difficult because the windows work intermittently) or should I have the windows rewired? I know Mark III's have been known to have some electrical issues, but this one has me stumped.

Thanks for any and all help!

Steve

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Hello Steve -

I have never heard of any reports of the power windows becoming non operative upon engine warm up but in this business we learn new things every day. The power windows share the same relay power source as the a/c- heater blower. At the time when the power windows stop working is the blower motor inoperative as well? If so the power window safety relay on the firewall behind the engine or the direct power supply to this relay from the battery is a strong suspect. If the blower remains operative at this time then the circuit for the power windows would need to be traced from the relay to the breaker panel and through to the drivers door switches. The above is the best way to approach this issue and at the same time be on the lookout for some unknown wiring alteration that a previous owner may have performed. Do not try to rewire the power window wiring. Always diagnose the actual problem first with the use of a correct wiring diagram and 12v test light. This circuit is actually not complicated but the wiring diagram is a necessity and will save you much time.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hello Again Bill,

I emailed you recently about the power windows failing to function after the engine heats up in my 1970 Continental Mark III. Thank you very much for your response and sharing your knowledge of the car it really did help to locate the problem; I think it was the master power relay. It seems the master power relay was heating up, tripping and shutting down and then resetting itself later. I was able to clean up the original relay and rerouted it to the front of the engine bay in order to keep it cooler with more airflow in order to keep it working. After a long ride today and after the engine got hot the drivers side window still continues to work as does the A/C blower, but now the passenger window is not functioning even after the car has cooled down (unlike before). I do here a slight click when the switch for the passenger side window is depressed. Does this still sound like a relay problem to you? Do I need a completely new relay? Or does it seem to now be a window motor problem? Or something else? If the relay was still tripping and shutting down from heat or all together bad, both windows and the A/C blower would fail right? What do you think?
Thanks Again

Steve

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Hi Steve -

Good that you were able to locate a problem area. However, these relays do not heat up and fail when heated as you describe and do not need to be relocated for cooling purposes if they are in good shape internally. If you have relocated yours to the front of the car somewhere you have also added several yards of resistance to the circuit in the form of extra wire. This extra resistance may or may not add to an unwanted drop in voltage. If you suspect that your relay has a further problem you can temporarily jump the necessary wires at the relay for diagnostic purposes only in order to prove if it is indeed faulty or not. You do not tell us where this "slight click noise" is coming from but if it is originating from inside the passenger door the motor could very well be faulty as you have suspected. I suggest that you read the recent July 2 reply to Alec. He has a similar problem with a 71 Mark and the diagnosis and basic testing suggestions in that blog reply should help you as well. To properly do this diagnosis, the correct wiring diagram is a must to have. If you do in fact need a motor we have excellent new ones as well as other p/w parts available for shipment.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Hi Bill,

Thanks for all your help with my problem. I think right now I may just have to change out the passenger side window motor. Hopefully, with everything you've said I will get this issue straightened out. Thanks Again for taking the time to answer my questions and help me find the problem with my Mark III. You've been a very big help!

Steve

July 2, 2013

1967 Continental Exhaust Leaks And Performance Parts Questions

Bill,

First let me say that your archive is awesome and has already helped me greatly. I just picked up a Sea Foam Green (not exactly sure if that is the right color) 67 Continental coupe. I am defiantly already beginning to see what makes this car special. Other than the basic problems that it seems like everyone has, It runs pretty good.

I have 2 questions for you.

1. I have some pretty substantial exhaust leaks coming from the header. The guy I bought it from said he recently replaced the headers and gaskets but I'm not sure how recent, "recent" is. Should I replace the gaskets or should I replace the whole manifold again.

2. What performance parts have you seen that are available for the 462 motor. I don't want to go crazy and make it a hot rod, but I would like to give her a little more pep in her step. I have looked for things like headers (to fix problem #1) and have found nothing. Please let me know what your recommendations are.

Thanks again for your time and keep doing what you're doing.

Jason.

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Jason -

If you have serious exhaust leaks or even slight leaks at the exhaust manifolds you would need to carefully inspect these manifolds for cracks and/or missing (blown out) gasket portions. Of course to be accurate an on site inspection will be necessary with a good ear and possibly a stethoscope. Accuracy in this diagnosis can save you much time and money. If the gaskets are found to be o/k and were indeed replaced properly with quality parts your problem may prove to be manifold and or heads needing to be machined or as simple as missing or loose studs and nuts etc.

As far as speed equipment for these engines, we at Lincoln Land do not recommend or actually endorse any particular products of this nature. The aftermarket choices are so plentiful and the personal desires of each individual owner is so varied that is difficult to satisfy most customers. If you have recently purchased your Lincoln why not get it tuned up and running nicely at this time in order for you to experience that powerful 462 as it was designed and then later you can research and experiment with some available speed equipment if you still want to.

Sincerely,

Bill

1971 Mark III Slow Windows & Update....

Hey Bill,

I am a die hard Ford/Lincoln fan! Currently my 71 Lincoln Mark III has been having an issue with slow windows. I removed the regulators and replaced the motors and greased the guides with white lithium grease, installed new belt line weatherstrip. I put everything back together and they go down fast but go up slow. The drivers side is better, still slow but does not stop, the passenger is still real slow and I have to pull up to get it to raise. I know these windows are big and heavy but I am at a loss. Not sure if an old really would be the cause.

Thank you

Alec

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Hi Alec -

I think that you should first determine if your issue is with the electrical circuit to the motors or mechanical. If the regulators and their springs are correct and assembled correctly and the motors are within specs. the springs will counterbalance the UP and DOWN action to be equal and of a reasonable speed as designed. To find out if you have an electrical problem you should remove the trim panels and operate the motors from their connectors near the motor by temporarily jumping them direct to the battery. If they operate correctly up and down with this test then you will need to correct the electrical power path through the switches and all of the associated wiring. Be sure that your battery is fully charged and use a battery charger on the battery when performing these tests. If you find however that the windows are still slow during the above diagnosing then you will need to revisit the motors and regulators etc. inside the doors. If you have purchased your window motors or other repair parts from Lincoln Land and have determined that they may possibly be faulty, please call and ask for Al for further assistance.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

Thank you for the help I used a portable jump starter to power the windows and they went up extremely fast. However when reconnected to the vehicle wiring the window again moved slow. I then checked the wiring to the motor and when the switch is activated I get 12.5 volts to the motor. I did verify a good ground under the hood as well. Is it possible the safety relay could be preventing a constant 12 volts under load?

Thanks again for the expert advice I really appreciate it!

Alec

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Alec -

Yes, as you are suggesting it is possible that the power window relay has a less than perfect connection inside and this can be proven by jumping the wiring at the relay. The direct power supply to the relay of course must also be in excellent condition. Our experience is that if there is a power drop at the p/w motors it is usually caused by the Sum of Several bad contacts in the circuit and that switches usually need replacing or servicing. You should use the proper diagrams to study the power path to and from the individual p/w motors and become familiar with the many contacts of the circuit inside the switches and the location of the grounds. You will then see that there are many locations for poor connections to develop. To do these tests and any other circuit testing you are well advised to have the correct wiring diagrams. From the diagrams you will learn that the circuit path is lengthy as power to each window motor originates at the drivers door switch and then returns back from the motor to separately ground in the drivers door.

Sincerely,

Bill