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May 29, 2013

1972 Mark Engine Knock

Hi Bill!

I have a question about my 1972 Mark IV with 28,000 original miles on it. I seem to have developed an engine knock. It only happens when I'm driving at about 40+ miles per hour and give it more gas. It seems to be happening in the 1500 - 2000 RPM range in my estimation. If I accelerate more, it goes away and I get pure, pulling "horse-pressure". If I let off the gas, it goes away too. It seems to only happen at 1500-2000 RPM's . At idle, when I rev the engine, I get no clicks, no ticks, no knocks, nothing. She's super quiet. I change the oil and filter @ 3000 mile intervals and the oil is clean and slippery. 10W40/FL-1A. If I let the car sit for a week at a time, and start her up cold, I still get no clicks, no ticks, no knocks, nothing. It's a VERY healthy, happy motor. I would think if it was a piston/bearing knock or a cam shaft bearing, I would hear it right away on a cold start. Anyway, any suggestions? She's my baby!!!

Thanks Bill!

Peace,

John

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Hi John -

The knock that you describe sounds to me like detonation possibly caused by excess carbon deposits in the combustion chambers, engine overheating or the use of a poor grade of fuel. If so the knocking can be reduced by checking and adjusting your ignition timing or adjusting the vacuum advance unit ( If it is adjustable) . You can experiment with the above along with different octanes and brands of fuel to find out if the condition improves. An engine compression test will help to determine whether or not the engine is severely " carboned up". If you are concerned with the possibility of an engine bearing knock you will need to do an engine oil pressure test with the use of a master oil pressure gauge and the engine at FULL operating temperature. By the sound of your post though I think that you may find that the cause of the knock will likely be one of or a combination of the first suggestions above.

Sincerely,

Bill

1962 Continental Steering Issues

Hi Bill,

I Have a problem with my steering on my 62 Lincoln, went to pull away from the curb and the steering wheel just went free wheel. I could just keep turning it and it is not engaged to the steering shaft? Could you suggest a possible problem and how I can get the steeling wheel apart. Not sure how to get the center cover off so I can start exploring the problem. I am worried that I might do some damage if I force it, or do it the wrong way. The steering wheel seems to flop slightly around as I turn it as well. Looking forward to a possible cause.

Regards,

Dale

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Greetings Dale -

The steering wheel is removed with a "steering wheel" puller as outlined in the service manual. I would not advise you to perform any repairs though unless you are familiar with the procedures. The steering wheel rarely separates from the shaft unless the driver completely ignores some previous severe looseness in the steering column area. There are other more certain possibilities to examine first that can be inspected without disassembling anything. These are the steering shaft Coupler above the steering box, the steering box Mounts and any parts in the steering linkage under the car. A good mechanic can diagnose and locate the problem for you in a very short time. I would advise you to visit one in the event that you cannot easily find the problem yourself.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 28, 2013

1971 Mark III Blower Motor Removal

Hi Bill -

Could you tell me the correct way to remove the blower motor on a 1971 Mark III. Does the metal apron need to be completely removed? If so, how does it come out?

Larry

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Hello Larry -

The blower motor on a 1971 Mark III is not removed from behind the right front wheel splash shield. It is removed from inside the vehicle through the recirc door inlet area which is located in behind the right side kick panel. The complete recirc door assembly which includes the duct elbow must be removed in order to gain access to the blower motor. This procedure will be explained in detail and possibly along with drawings in the Shop Manual. A Shop Manual is a great asset and in most cases a "must have" when performing your own repairs on a car. We of course have the manuals and the necessary parts available if you will need them.

Sincerely,

Bill

1979 Town Coupe Eating Batteries

Hi Bill,

It's me again, the guy with the bad cornering lamps and crooked steering wheel. Now I've got a whole new problem. I had stored my Lincoln Town Coupe away for the winter and when I pulled it out again for summer the alt light came on. It does every time I start it but when I start driving it goes off again, meaning there's just a fault somewhere that's otherwise harmless. Driving it from the shed to the house through the light stayed on. I had the battery disconnected all winter so the clock wouldn't drain. This concerned me because I knew if the light stayed on while in motion that meant there was a serious problem somewhere. I parked it by the house and left it there still hooked up, I came back a few hours later and it started up just fine, and again a few more hours later. I had no idea what was wrong because it seemed ok. So I left home for a few days and when I returned I found that the car's battery was stone cold dead. Upon trying to boost it the power components worked just find but it wouldn't crank, and when I disconnected the vehicle doing the boosting it was dead again, so that battery is toast. It worked fine all summer last year, and I had dropped $110 dollars into having the alternator redone, completely rewired engine, new voltage regulator, and a brand new battery. My battery cables are crap though, I need to replace them, could they be causing this? I don't understand how this could have happened just sitting in one place all winter. We just recently rat/mouse proofed the shed so that's got nothing to do with it, and I went out in plus weather and started it up to keep the blood flowing 2 or 3 times during the winter. Any suggestions?

Tanner

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Tanner -

If your battery cables are that bad of course you should replace them first. Then if the problem persists you would need to do a complete charging system and battery condition test even though you have already made repairs last year . This will tell you if the charging system is operating properly and if the battery is capable of receiving and maintaining voltage etc. during a load test. If your alt. light is on as you describe, the above tests will be necessary in order to diagnose the problem. It is possible that some underhood wiring has suffered a over winter "rodent chew" in a hard to see area.

Sincerely,

Bill

1979 Town Coupe Unusual Noises From Underside Of Car

Hi Bill!

Congratulations for your great blog, it is so useful!

I'm Italian and I have a 79 Town Coupe' that has been to the Lincoln Land Shop.

Over the past there year I did several jobs to maintain it in good shape and I love it!
Some weeks ago a problem started. I hear a 'toc toc' under my feet! When the engine is at Idle, no problem and also when I put it in Drive with the brake on, no problem but as I start and the car runs I can hear this clunk improve as fast as the car goes under the feet in the center of the floor.

During the trip I tried to shift in Neutral with the car in movement and the noise disappeared! It seems only in traction and for sure in movement.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Best regards,

Christian

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Hello Christian -

If you have an unusual sound from under the vehicle that changes with speed etc. as you describe it could well be a bad u joint as you suspect. To eliminate that possibility or prove that you have a bad u joint, the car must lifted on a hoist and the u joints properly and carefully inspected for looseness etc. At this time other parts such as engine, transmission mounts and exhaust can also be checked out.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 13, 2013

1965 Continental Charging Issues

Bill,

Last year I purchased a complete and running 1965 Ivy Gold Lincoln Continental here on Kodiak Island. I have a problem with the charging system that no one can seem to solve. The alternator, voltage regulator, dash gauge and wiring have been gone through or been replaced new but the problem persists. The car will not go from charge to discharge so whenever I drive it the battery gets sucked of charge and the car dies after the battery is dead. The wiring appears to be correct and was even looked at by an auto electrician. But when the car is running if I disconnect the negative cable the car dies instantly. This would be a good indicator that the alternator is not running the ignition but the battery is. What else can I possibly do to fix this. I love this car and want to enjoy it but getting it to be a daily driver with this problem is impossible since I have to carry around two batteries with me at all times. Thanks for your time.

Al

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Greetings Al -

The charging system on the 64 and 65 Lincolns are unique to that era as the AMP gauge is very involved in the correct function of the whole electrical system as much of the power travels through this gauge. This amp gauge is also extremely problematic when and if it develops poor connections or short circuits at its connections behind the dash. Many technicians are not aware of this fact as they are familiar with the more common "Shunt" style of charge indicators. Assuming that your alternator,regulator and battery are correct and have been tested to be in "very good" working order and also not knowing the history of your car's electrical system I can offer the following advice. I would obtain the "correct" charging system wiring diagram for the car and using this schematic I would inspect the wiring for bad connections or alterations that a previous owner or technician may have performed to the wiring. You should begin though with a very careful visual inspection of the amp gauge connections behind the dash as it may be disconnected or burnt. If you do uncover a problem in this area the repair needs to be done accurately with the contacts well isolated and tight. If you have more information or require parts for the repair or further assistance please contact us by telephone and refer to this blog post.

Sincerely,

Bill