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February 28, 2013

1969 Mark III Fuel Pump Update And Auto Climate Control Issues

Bill -

Thanks to Lincoln Land for the correct fuel pump. After months of fuel
issues the Mark III is running beautifully. That problem is solved !

Now a new quirk has developed. The ACC had always worked perfectly. I
now can not get heat out of the heater vents. When I turn the ACC on and
set the temp at 85 with the ambient temp outside at 50 degrees air flow
comes out the a/c vents that is not heated. I also hear the a/c compressor
engage. I do not have heat out of the floor vents. I have good heat on
defog and defrost with proper airflow out the defrost vents (a/c
compressor engages on defog/frost). I turn it back to low or high and
set the temp lever on 85 I get unheated airflow out of the a/c vents. I
hear the air blend door doing it's little dance while the temp lever is at
85. I turn it down to 65 and the temp of the air out of the dash vents
seems to cool down ( it's a little hard to say because it is winter ) but
I don't hear the blend door adjusting itself as much.

Sincerely -

Patrick

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Patrick -

Glad to hear we could help with your fuel problem....

The compressor will be on in all positions except OFF or if the ambient temperature is below approximately 35 degrees. When the control lever is in the DEFROST position the system will drive to the full heat position (no temp regulation as the sensors are shorted to make the blend door remain at full heat setting) with maximum blower speed. In DEFOG the system will have three high automatic higher blower speeds and will regulate the air outlet temp. according to the setting of the control 65-85 degrees. The air outlet will be locked in approximately 90 percent DEFROST and 10 percent FLOOR position. Do you in fact have heat in the DEFOG position with the control at 85 degrees? In the HIGH or LOW position the system will adjust between FLOOR or the A/C VENTS as necessary to maintain the temperature that you have the lever adjusted to. The system will not drive the blend door to the full Heat position if the temperature inside the car is warm or in the vicinity of the temperature setting that you have chosen even if it is set at 85 degrees in some cases. If you hear the blend door doing its "little dance" as you describe this tells me the the blend door is not in the full heat setting. If you feel that your system is not operating as designed it will need to be diagnosed as per the Shop Manual only. We at Lincoln Land are able to repair all parts of this intricate control system including the annoying "little dance" chatter from the blend door servo. Accurate on scene diagnosis at your location of course is critical to avoid unnecessary labor and parts replacement. Before diagnosing you need to remember if the problem began after another area of the car was serviced previously and consider the possibility that some component related to the Automatic Climate Control was disconnected or unplugged etc. The main ATC box located above the carpet on the passenger side has a small inset dial on the bottom which is factory adjusted to a position near the center of its travel. If someone unfamiliar with these controls has adjusted it to the full Cold position the system will act as you are describing and will not be able to move the blend door to the full Heat position except in the De-ICE setting. I would advise you to check this dial setting before replacing parts. We hope that the above helps. Please let us know what you find.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 22, 2013

1966 Lighting Issues

Hi Bill -

I have a 1966 Continental that is giving me some lighting problems. When I depress the brake peddle the front (turn signal) lights and the rear (brake/turn signal) lights light up. Also, when I use the turn signal switch all 4 lights light up. I've checked all bulbs and all grounds and everything seems fine. All relays and flashers are operational as well. Is there something in the t.s. switch that could cause this and how would I check that. Thanks for your help.

Chip

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Chip -

You don't mention if you have purchased the car with this issue or if the issue developed on its own or occurred after another electrical repair etc. If you acquired the vehicle with this problem, the previous owner may have crossed some wires or installed incorrect parts that you or I have no knowledge of. The turn signal switch if faulty can cause many symptoms but your description sounds like a wiring problem separate from the turn signal switch. One possibility is that if the four-way (hazard) flasher switch was inadvertently left in the on position and the turn signals were activated, the lights could illuminate as you describe. It is important that you check the position of the four-way flasher switch first. In any case the only way to diagnose an electrical issue such as this is with a 12 volt test light and the correct wiring diagram at your side. Do you have a diagram for your Lincoln and a test light? If you have these and some electrical skills you should be able to trace the power path for the various turn signal positions and discover what is needed in order to correct the problem.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Follow up:

Thanks for replying so quickly Bill. The car was fully restored about 3 years ago. It has most new wiring, but not all. This issue just started about a month ago and I'm just getting to it. Interesting you mentioned the 4 way flasher switch. So far that seems to be the only thing that does not work. I haven't checked it with a test light yet, but I did notice the other day that it wasn't working. I do have a test light and have started checking components and wiring at the ts switch. I was just hoping that maybe it was a common problem that could be solved a little quicker than chasing down bad grounds, shorts to ground, etc..

Thanks for your advice.

February 19, 2013

1966 Brake Light Switch Questions

Bill -

Truly great site. Just been working on a 66 continental 462 MEL. I'm having trouble locating the brake light switch as electronics are good but no break lights. I need to replace brake booster as well but would that negate the break lights from engaging? I didn't think it was too difficult to find the switch but I am just failing. Thought I would just raise my hand and ask the teacher before I get pulled over....

Much appreciated,

Raj

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Hello Raj -

The brake light switch on a 1966 Lincoln is located above the brake pedal and behind the booster rod. It is a mechanicaly activated electrical switch that can fail but should still work with a faulty booster. If it is unplugged or installed incorrectly it will not function. Another popular cause of inoperative brake lights to consider is a faulty turn signal switch. Correct diagnosis of this circuit is recommended to avoid unnecessary parts replacement.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 8, 2013

1971 Mark III Restarting Issues & Follow Up

Bill,

I own a 1971 Mark III with 78k miles. I have major issues re-starting
the vehicle. It cranks right up when I start it, but after I drive a
while and park it.... It has to sit for about 2-6 hours before it
restarts even with a jump. I've taken it to a few mechanics but I've
spent a TON of money following their recommendations . Below are a
list of things that have all been replaced:

- new optima battery
- new starter
- new Carb
- new alternator

.... And a lot of labor hrs all paid by me and the problem is still
there. I am determined not to have to take my car back yo the shop so
I am tackling this on my own. Please Help.

Raheem

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Hi Raheem -

You don't mention some key tune up and performance items such as spark plugs,ignition points,coil,condenser and high tension wiring etc. These tune up items along with their adjustments are extremely important for good starting and running. General engine condition and mechanical timing components such as timing chain and gears should also be within specifications. A properly maintained 78000 mile engine should be no problem in this regard. If an engine starts fine cold and then will not restart after it is hot may be out of tune as suggested above or the carburetor could be flooding the engine with fuel after a hot shut off. With a flooded engine you then need to wait until the engine returns to a cold temperature again in order for it to start. The needle and seat area inside the carb could be leaking excess fuel into the carb at engine shut off ( Not uncommon ) or the float setting may be incorrect. I assume that your battery is fully charged and that the starter motor is cranking the engine properly. The above suggestions are based on what you are telling us in your email and are good items to initially check for this type of problem. When you have more information contact us again for further advice if the above hints do not lead to a solution for you.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

Thank you for the reply. My 1971 Lincoln received a complete tune up in 2010 when it had approx. 75,000miles. I recently had the coil checked and it was in good working order. Looks like I may have to take it in and have the new carb double checked for leakage because it also bogs down when i give it a lot of gas while driving. Thoughts?

Sincerely,

Raheem

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Raheem -

The only other thoughts that I have from your recent "Bogs down" update is that you should revisit the tune up adjustments on your engine with respect to the very important Dwell adjustment of the ignition points (this MUST be done properly with a Dwell Meter) and the ign. timing adjusted with a Timing Light. Another critical tune up item that is many times overlooked is the Vacuum advance unit ( mounted on the distributor) and its vacuum supply routing from the carb. We find that close to 50% of them are faulty on any that we examine here at Lincoln Land. If all of the above is in good order I would still suspect that something could be amiss inside the carburetor and would be worth checking.

You have stated that you have a new carburetor installed on your car but "New" original carbs are no longer available for these cars so you must have a rebuilt original carb. or a new one that is a non original brand. Non original carbs are fine if they are the correct model for your car and are installed and set up correctly. The needle and seat area along with the floats are known leakage locations on the original carburetors. The seat itself is screwed into the carburetor inlet using a gasket and is known to leak if it is not tight or if a gasket is not used. To diagnose this issue correctly and in a timely manner you need to select a technician who is willing and well versed in the fuel and ignition systems on this era of vehicles. Good mechanics can still be found in many shops. Raheem if you are keeping this car you should look into purchasing the factory Service manual set. These will pay off in a short time with dollars saved in labor and parts etc. Any technician that you take your car to for service will be grateful with these manuals and if you do sell the car they will be another selling feature. These are great cars to own and when you have yours running properly you will be able to enjoy it for many years to come.

Sincerely,

Bill

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Bill,

Thank you again for your recommendations for my 1971 Lincoln. I just wanted to update you on the progress. I took your recommendations to change the ignitions points, ignition coil, spark plugs, and wires.... and she now starts right up hot or cold!

Raheem

1962 Lincoln Continental Oil Pump Replacement

Hi Bill,

I purchased a high volume oil pump off you guys and was wondering am I able to drop the oil sump off, or do I have to jack the motor slightly to clear the oil pump pick up. The blog is great Bill keep up the good work.

Regards.

Dale

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Greetings Dale -

The motor mounts should be disconnected and the engine carefully lifted a few inches and then a block of 2x4 carefully and safely inserted at the resulting motor mount gap to hold the engine at this height. Any radiator shroud etc. etc. should be loosened to avoid damage. The oil pan and pump should then be serviced with ample clearance.

Sincerely,

Bill

February 5, 2013

1977 Mark V Seat Issues

Bill,

Have a problem with the power seats (both left and right) on my rarely driven Lincoln (58K miles) . Seats are 6 way power and both tilt and up and down work fine. Neither will move back or forward. The motor seems to click once, lights dim but no movement. Tried the much touted press seat back while engaging switch with no results. Any suggestions?

Also, the sending unit in the gas tank is not working. Garage that installed new tank said unit not available; do you have a source?

Hope to clear up problems so I can sell this soon.

Thanks,

Joel

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Hi Joel -

Power seat problems such as you describe are not uncommon. You will need to disassemble the non operating seat mechanism and inspect for binding or damaged parts. At this time a timely complete lubrication of all moving parts will be possible.

We have the means to rebuild your fuel sending unit here at Lincoln Land if it is faulty and rebuildable as well as a supply of power seat parts if you do find that you need any.

Sincerely,

Bill

1972 Continental Choke Questions...

Greetings Bill,

Would my 72 Continental have originally been equipped with a choke pull off?
Mine does not - and as a result it makes it a little difficult to get it to work properly.
If it should have one, is that something LL could supply? Assuming I would need everything to go with it - screws, bracket, linkage, etc...

Thanks very much,

Robert

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Hello Robert -

You are correct that the 1972 Lincoln would have had the necessary choke pull off when new. I cannot imagine anyone removing this feature unless your carburetor has been replaced with one of a non original brand name. Holley and Edelbrock brands will have their own choke system. Please call us direct with more information regarding your present carburetor and we will be able to assist you further.

Sincerely,

Bill