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October 30, 2012

1963 Brake Booster Issues

Hi Bill,

You were a help to me several years ago with my 57 MK II brake booster which had a rebuild at your shop. Now my "Blue Chip" 63 sedan is needing some of your advise as well.

Abruptly, the power assist stopped working for the brakes. Following the manual on page 2-16
Under "HARD PEDAL" symptoms; items 1 thru 4 and 10 thru 14 do seem to be properly function issues. Items 5 thru 9 are my concerns and which of those Items, if any, can I check without pulling the unit. The diagrams are not complete enough for me to locate parts described in 5 thru 9.

As you know pulling the power booster requires lots of acrobatics under the dash to get the mount bolts so that is my last resort.

The knowledge and entertainment value from Bill's Corner is priceless to all of your fans. Thanks for your important and unique service to us.

Regards,

Bob

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Dear Bob -

We are glad that you are enjoying the blog. From your description of your brake problem (sudden loss of booster assist) it sure sounds like a booster failure. I am not at Lincoln Land at the moment so Erik Dalemans has read the parts of the manual that you are referring to. He called me and agreed that if you have not lost engine vacuum supply to the booster the booster must be removed for service. The booster can be troublesome to remove and reinstall as you describe but one tip that I can suggest is to loosen the nuts with the larger 3/8 inch drives or wrenches and then finish removing them with a smaller 1/4 inch drive ratchet using extensions and swivels etc. that are cleverly configured to give you easier movement. When you take some extra time to set your tools up this way you may be surprised at how much easier the job can be. Be sure to first check that you have full engine vacuum to the booster before removing it. We sure hope that this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 23, 2012

1959 Continental With Seized Drums

Dear Bill,

Can you give some advice how to loose seized brake drums ? I have an 59 Continental I have owned some 15 years. Now the car has been unused for couple of years and the right front brake drum is totally rusted and seized.

Can you give me any tips,because I don't want to demolish the drum.

I appreciate your answer.

Best Regards

Mr.Jarkko Partanen
Finland

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Hello Jarkko,

Sometimes they can be frustrating. Assuming that the problem is that those right front brake shoes have become bonded to the drum and that the bearings are not the problem you can try the following. If it is possible you can try to grind (with a small grinder) the heads off of the pins that hold the brake shoes to the backing plate from the outside (inboard side) of the plate. These pins are the ones that are held on with the small coil springs from the inside of the drum. If a grinder is not possible they may possibly be chiselled or drilled out. Hopefully this will release the shoes from their mounting and the drum can then be worked off along with the shoes. Of course there will be some brake hold down hardware etc. to replace. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 22, 2012

Thanks and greetings from Norway

Hello Bill!

My name is Per Rogstad and live in Norway. My hobby for many, many years has been old American cars.

I am now 64 years old and the last 4 years I have had the pleasure of owning a 1972 Mark IV, Two Mark V (1977 and 1979) and a gorgeous 1977 Town Coupe that I own now.
I would like to take this opportunity to say how delighted I am for your service. I mostly have had contact with John, but also with Chris when spare parts to be purchased! I am very impressed by your service, friendliness and all the responses I have got regarding all the questions I have had until now! I am proud to be a customer - and you in Lincoln Land Inc. can be very pleased by the employees .. I MEAN IT!. I've never got better service and friendliness as with you! Customer satisfaction must be high with you?

As mentioned, American cars my whole life has been my big hobby, but a while back, I unfortunately got cancer (prostate cancer). I am now under treatment with chemotherapy and it seems to be going well. I had planned a trip to the U.S. next summer for among other things visiting you at Lincoln Land, hire a car and then run the Lincoln Highway. It has been my greatest wish, but I must postpone this now. I love your country - and I am involved in a major exhibition in Norway 4th of July every year. (A salute to your wonderful country - and to the independence day)... This year, we collected over 3,000 American vehicles in a small town called Lillestrom. (about 10 miles north of Oslo). There were also 4 cars from USA who participated in this event. Next year there will be many, many more. If that`s the case, It will be a great event! - I really look forward to that.

I hope I get many happy years together with family and friends in the milieu of American cars here in Norway. I also hope that I get well soon.!
My best wishes to you for the future, I wish you luck. (By the way; - I would really like to have a 1968 Lincoln convertible, but it becomes too expensive for me)...
Maybe we'll meet in Clearwater sometime next year. It is my desire now!

Say hello to John and Chris!

Sincerely
Per Rogstad

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Greetings Per -

We at Lincoln Land were very pleased to receive your letter from Norway regarding your satisfaction with the excellent quality of service here at our locations in Florida. Happy customers such as yourself are very important to us and your positive letter today certainly made us glad to be in this business of supplying parts and service to Lincoln lovers everywhere.

All of us were sorry to hear that you are in treatment at this time and will not be able to visit us as soon as you would like to. Be assured though that when you are well enough to make the trip you will be well received here by all of us. We wish you a speedy recovery Per.

Sincerely,

Chris, George, John, Bill and all of the staff at Lincoln Land

October 15, 2012

1973 Mark IV AC Blower Motor Questions

Bill,

On my 73 MK IV the AC blower motor decreases when I accelerate or encounter hills out on the highway. It spent the day at a reputable AC shop in Tyler. The check valve at the brake booster was replaced along with some hoses under the hood. Still the same problem. I note that this only occurs when the car is in gear. This will not happen with it
in park while revving the motor, AC works great in park and neutral while racing the engine. Drop it in gear and accelerate and the blower cuts out completely. What is causing this?

Pat

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Hi Pat -

That condition as you describe is a common problem and I believe that we have addressed it before on previous posts. The Climate Control system on your car is designed to revert towards Defrost and High heat output in the event of a drop in the vacuum supply to the controls. When you are operating uphill or accelerating etc. the engine vacuum drops and if there is a leak in the a/c system it will begin to adjust to the defrost/heat position until the vacuum returns when you are de-accelerating or traveling downhill. This is a thoughtful safety design that will activate for you in the event of loss of vacuum and is very welcome in freezing ambient conditions. The a/c system has its own vacuum reservoir and check valve. This valve can leak internally or there could be a leak anywhere that the vacuum is routed. This includes any hoses,vacuum motors or controls etc. If the person who is working on the car is not completely familiar or skilled with this design a vacuum schematic is a must in order to locate and test the correct components. I have serviced many of these cars since they were introduced and I have always had the service manual close at hand. Hope that the above helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 11, 2012

65 Slips Out Of Park, Hard To Start

Bill -

I have a 1965 Lincoln Continental all original single owner car with low miles on it. My wives Grandfather bought the car new. The car has sat for years and I am having a problem with something I was hoping you may be able to help me with. Baby Blue keeps slipping out of Park. I have trouble making the connection to even start her as well. Often times when I get the shifter into park it slips out back into reverse. I checked the linkage at the transmission and up at the steering box. It all looks tight and good. The transmission appears to be working perfectly when it drives. I was told by a local mechanic that it was something in the steering column. Do you have any idea what part it might be in the column? It looks like quite a job to pull the column so I am just trying to figure it out before I tear into it.

Thanks,

Jimmy

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Greetings Jimmy,

It is nice to hear that you are keeping that nice 65 Lincoln in the family. If all of the linkage appears to be in good working order and in correct adjustment the steering column is indeed the next area to examine. The lower steering column bushing is a very common failure on these vehicles and if worn out should be replaced as soon as possible in the interest of safety. We have heard of many instances from our customers of these cars slipping into reverse while idling and causing damage. I would advise you to contact Chris or George here at Lincoln Land as we have this bushing as well as the upper steering column bearing available. The parts are not too expensive and we will also be able to provide you with disassembly info. if you do not have the necessary Shop Manual. I hope this helps you get started as I would suggest that you consider this repair a priority.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 8, 2012

1969 Mark III New Owner Questions

Hi Bill,

Just bought my first Ford: a 1969 maroon Mark iii with 36k original miles. Car had been sitting a while and still had the original wires cap and rotor on it so I gave it a complete tune up. Runs almost perfectly with great power and smooth idle. However the idle smells a bit rich. Is there an idle mixture adjustment screw on the carb? I see one big and one small screw in the front but didn't want to touch anything without knowing what they did.

Lastly the passenger side window is ever so slightly misaligned versus the back 1/4 glass window. Is there a way to adjust this?

Thanks,

Adam

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Hi Adam -

Your 69 Mark III is a great car to own. The carburetors on these cars certainly are adjustable and there are several adjustments as well as idle mixture adjustments. If you are unfamiliar with carburetors as you indicate you will need the shop manual to review the operation and settings for your carburetor. If your engine has the original style carburetor installed on it this service manual will guide you through the various adjustments and probably save you much time and money as well.

The side windows also have many adjustments to change the up stops, fore and aft movement as well as angles of operation etc. One other common window problem with vehicles of that era is that the glass can become detached from the regulator parts and may cause an alignment issue that only "appears" to be an adjustment correction but is in fact a glass that has separated and is now out of position. Accurate diagnosis for this alignment condition is therefore very important. Again, the shop manual would be a must for you in order to properly review and perform all of the many possible window adjustments.

If you do not have the manual or would prefer only copies of these sections from the manual on these two issues please contact George or Chris at our office and we can arrange to send them to you. The complete Shop Manual is strongly recommended though in order to address these and future problems that you may encounter.

Sincerely,

Bill

October 4, 2012

1977 Lincoln Dies While Driving

I am having the same problem where I can go about 15 miles and the car dies. I have been recently told that it was a manufacturing problem or a design problem where is the fuel line is too close to to the engine, which causes it to vapor lock. I have been instructed to put a brass t fitting on the fuel line coming out of the fuel pump and another T fitting to the fuel line going into the fuel tank and then running a new line from the back to the front connecting the to t fittings. I have not done this yet it seems that one should be able to move the fuel line away from the engine under the hood instead of running such a long line from back to front.

I also just noticed a little rubber hose nipple coming on of the rear wheel well appearing to come from the gas tank filler neck not sure what it is or what its function is.

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There is no factory design or defect on a 77 Lincoln that promotes fuel system Vapor Lock. I have no idea what is causing your problem as you describe but if you believe it to be fuel related you need to put the fuel system back to the original factory state and then perform the proper fuel delivery tests as shown in the shop manual. An engine that "dies" or shuts off after 15 miles can do so because of one of several conditions or faults so therefore there is no room for guessing. If anyone thinks that it is a fuel issue you need to "prove it" first with a proper diagnosis in order to repair it. We hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

1970 Mark III Seat And Horn Issues

Hi Bill-

The power seat and horn went dead on my 70 mark III earlier this wk. Then the new battery went dead. Now when I jump start it, the horn wont shut off (even after the motor turns over and car starts).

Any ideas would be most appreciated!

Thanks,

Tom

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Tom -

The best way to diagnose a horn that is on at all times is to unplug the wiring harness that runs up the steering column to the horn switch and the turn signal switch. The most common cause of this condition is a sticking or faulty horn switch and your car probably does have the "rim blow" steering wheel switch. If the horn stops blowing with that wiring unplugged this will tell you that you have a problem in the steering column or switch. If not, you will need to trace the horn circuit with the use of the correct wiring diagram. Having a dead battery experience will not cause the horn circuit to become faulty but inadvertently crossing wires etc. in the horn circuit during any other electrical repairs however will very likely cause a problem. I hope that the above helps you to a speedy diagnosis.

Sincerely,

Bill

1994 Town Car Air Suspension Questions

HI BILL-

MY OTHER LINCOLN, A 94 TOWN CAR SEDAN WAS RECENTLY REFIT WITH NEW REAR AIR SHOCKS. I PUT LIMO GRADE AIR SHOCKS ON IT THIS TIME, AND AFTER 6 WEEKS WITH NO PROBLEM, THE CAR WONT KEEP THE CORRECT HEIGHT LEVEL IN THE REAR.

THE MECHANIC SAYS THE PISTONS ON THE SHOCKS WORK FINE, BUT THEY WONT STAY UP. I CALLED A VENDOR AND HE SAID TO CHECK THE SOLENOIDS, AND AIRLINE, BUT THE MECHANIC THINKS IT COULD BE THE LEVELING SWITCH OR CONTROL MODULE.

ANY IDEAS?

THANKS VERY MUCH!

-TOM

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Hi Tom -

The 94 Town Cars were equipped with rear Air Springs. Do you now have air shocks on your rear suspension or air springs. This is confusing to us if you have both installed. In any case there is an adjustable sensor in the rear that senses the vehicle height and instructs the electronic suspension module to make the necessary height corrections via solenoids and air lines. This sensor may have become loose or may be faulty etc. I would start by inspecting that sensor as it is easy to check. I have no idea if the installation of "limo grade" items would cause any issues as we have never seen the need to alter the original factory equipped parts with Limo parts. We do offer a "Heavy Duty" grade bag here at Lincoln Land, if this is what your supplier is referring to as "Limo", again this should present no issues. If the original electronics on your suspension system have not been altered I do hope that you discover only a loose sensor as outlined above. To perform any further diagnosis you will need the Shop Manual and or a shop with a technician who is familiar with this suspension.

Sincerely,

Bill