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September 17, 2012

1961 Starting Issues

Good Morning Bill,

I have a new issue that I am hoping to you help me solve.

While bumping the starter in short bursts in the effort to un-seize the engine; my son left the ignition switch in the "On position" for two days.

Now, a red generator light appears on the dash broad and the starter won't engage/turn. All it does is make a single clicking sound when I turn the key.

Any suggestions?

Gary

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Gary -

From the description of your problem we would first strongly suspect that the battery has lost its charge. If the ignition key was left on for two days as you have indicated a battery will be powering up the ignition system and the generator light etc. during that time period. Therefore the condition and state of charge of the battery are the first things for you to examine. Leaving the key on can be detrimental to some parts of the ignition system as well. The life of these parts may have been shortened. Time will tell.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 10, 2012

'71 Mark III Dieseling At Shut Off

Bill -

I recently purchased a Mark III, it is in excellent condition, very original and I'm having just one problem. Very shortly after purchasing the vehicle it started to run after shutoff very rough. It makes knocking sounds and shortly after finally shuts off. It does not do this every time. Sometimes upon start up I can faintly hear it as it starts for only literally less than a second. At shut off when said problem presents itself I have seen smoke leaving the air intake tube located by battery. I only use 93 octane gas. I have no previous knowledge of the cars service history. It has 66K miles. Very clean engine bay. What could cause this dieseling?? Otherwise the engine runs great with good power. Please help.

John

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John -

Hi John -

Congratulations on your 71 MK III purchase. They are great cars. The most common cause of dieseling at engine shutoff is too fast of an engine idle speed when the engine should be at its normal slow idle speed after the engine is at operating temperature. If this is the case with your engine and the problem started to appear on its own, the carburetor choke system and throttle mechanism should be inspected for a sticking condition. As you probably already know a cold engine will start and run initially on a fast idle and as it warms up the choke circuit will cause the fast idle cam to release the setting to the slower idle. If that or a sticking throttle shaft etc. is holding the engine at an abnormal higher idle after warm up the engine can "run on" or "diesel" after engine shut off. The above is the easiest and best way to first approach this problem. Knowing how the carburetor systems operate will be required and the complete carburetor operation is explained in the Shop Manual.

Sincerely,

Bill

September 5, 2012

1969 Mark Fuel Pump Issues - Update from May 2012...

Hello Bill & Chris,

On May 29 2012 you will see my email to you guys. I had to walk away in disgust at that time and left the Mark sitting in the garage. Since the motor rebuild no I mean entire car rebuild it will not run properly because of lack of fuel to the carb. I replaced the fuel pump 3 times with a new Airtex 6878 fuel pump. The car will sometimes run, sometimes start but eventually quit running after 15-30 minutes. Everything is new and I mean everything, it is cooling properly, it runs great when it runs. I removed the fuel line to the pump from the tank. I attached a hose to the fuel pump and dropped it into a gallon of gas under the car. I detached the fuel line at the filter on the carb and stuck it in a jar. Cranking for minutes on the starter yielded a tablespoon of gas in the jar. My motor mechanic was convinced it was the eccentric. After months of hesitation I called him and we have torn down the front of the motor. The eccentric he installed, thinking it was better was the 2 piece Ford eccentric. I will say it has play in it. Is there to be a washer
behind these two cam rings??? I have no idea. My 69 Technical Data manual for the Mark III shows a one piece eccentric. IS THIS MY PROBLEM my car requires the 1 piece cam??? Or the fact there is suppose to be a washer behind the 2 piece cam?? Now it gets more interesting, NO AGGRAVATING to the point of profanity ! My George said to throw away the Airtex fuel pumps, it's garbage made in Mexico. Go buy a Carter. I have
searched for a Carter fuel pump. When I find one it says Carter M6878, fits 1970-71 Mark III, NOT compatible with 1969. It there a difference in fuel pumps for 69s ?? I called Robert Ballard in Orlando and he said he knew the timing covers were different between the years of 69 and 70 and maybe the fuel pump was positioned differently on the timing cover not allowing the arm on the newer aftermarket pumps to come in proper contact
with the cam. Mac said on his Marks he never had a problem. I'm sicken with not knowing what the problem is. We have the 3 Lincolns and I'm mechanically capable. I have NEVER had such an ordeal with fuel delivery as I have had on this car. At this point with all the time, effort, and expense I really wanted to keep it original as Ford built it, that's just my nature.

Lord HELP !

Patrick in east Texas.

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Hi Patrick -

Your email regarding this problem earlier this year is still remembered by us and I had hoped that it would have been resolved by now. After reading your recent email several times though I don't completely understand your test. You state that you removed the fuel line from the tank. Does that mean that you drew the gas for this test through the fuel lines to the pump at the tank area or did you draw from a short temporary hose properly installed near the fuel pump itself thereby bypassing the fuel lines and hoses from the pump to the tank? If you drew fuel for the test near the pump and then cranked the engine a properly activated pump would have drawn ample fuel and delivered it to the carburetor via the outlet lines and through the fuel filter. Performing that test near the pump eliminates the possibility of a plugged line or an air leak in the suction system between the pump and the fuel pickup in the tank. If the test was performed in this fashion and the pump still did NOT deliver fuel I can only surmise from where I sit that the pump is faulty or that the pump rod is not being activated correctly by the original design at its location in the engine. I can tell you honestly that the fuel delivery design on these engines has never been a problem area and that any fuel delivery failures have always been easy to diagnose in my opinion. I believe that your tests are possibly not being done exactly correct or something obvious is being overlooked somewhere. We cannot determine from here if your fuel pump cam eccentric is activating as designed or if anything has been incorrectly altered in this area on your engine. I am sure of and trust that you or your mechanic already has the correct manuals etc. with explicit photos of the various workings and installation components of the camshaft and the fuel pump. We can offer to test one of the so called "garbage" new pumps for you or we can supply you with a new pump that we are having 100% success and zero complaints with. Beyond that we would need to be on site with the car to do the diagnosis. Let us know how you would like us to proceed in order to help you further.

Sincerely,

Bill