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May 31, 2012

1967 Continental Vacuum Questions

Dear Bill,

I have read much of your page and enjoyed your insight, and respect your knowledge. I am doing a complete restoration on a 67 Continental 462, which is getting close to finish (thank God). My partner described issues of cold start issues which I assumed was a carb choke related issue. While I was pulling parts to paint and replacing severely dry rotted vacuum lines I noticed a few issues. First the choke was disconnected at the carb. Initially I thought problem solved. As I got further down I noticed near the front driver firewall under some electrical connections what looked like an airbag with a valve inside which was rotted throughout. As I tracked it down via vacuum line I noticed it ran to the choke. Can you please tell me what this part is and where I might find a replacement. Also I found a rusted throughout (assuming metal vacuum line) that ran from the passenger side exhaust manifold to the carb. It looks similar to a metal brake line flanged at the ends fitting into a bracket bolted into manifold. Any info is greatly appreciated and please continue posting, I enjoyed your answers.

Matt

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Hello Matt,

We are glad that you enjoy the blog. The chokes on these 462 engines work real well if all is intact and adjusted as per the manual. As well we should have the necessary parts to service them if any parts are needed. An electric choke shouldn't really be necessary here. Someone possibly could have connected some of your underhood components incorrectly. If you send us some clear pictures of the areas that you are concerned with, we may be able to identify them for you. Do you have a proper shop manual for your 67? The manual can be very helpful for you and pay off big time in several ways. After we receive your photos Al or George will contact you with information on what you might need.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 29, 2012

1969 Mark III Issues

Bill,

I have a dilemma. I just finished restoration of our beautiful 69 Mark III. Every aspect was NOS with many thanks going to Lincolnland. It was a 5 year process. It is prepped for concours show. Funny story now, it is complete and it will not run. After 100 miles on the new motor it would just stop running, it would restart if I poured fuel down the carb
repeatedly. In the next 100 miles this problem got worse. After the 3rd new fuel pump I knew something was up. The fuel pump eccentric is not functioning. I expect the flat key has sheared. I am so disgusted I lost sleep over it. I fear that tearing down the front end of the motor will lead to scratches bumps and bruises. Everything was detailed down to
individual washers and bolts. The troublesome power steering pump doesn't
leak a drop though it took 3 attempts to get it perfect. The agony of this!! I am considering adding a electric 12V fuel pump with 4-5psi and bypass the mechanical fuel. Would I be foolish doing this? My mechanic says I should go with the electric fuel pump. I think he is in fear of the $6000 paint job too and the exquiste detail on the engine. What would you and Chris do????????????

Patrick, cursing expletives in east Texas.

Bill,

Let me add here in east Texas I only have ethanol for fuel nothing else is available. I have been having vapor lock problems with all 4 Lincolns, the Thunderbird and my Studebaker. It is 90-110 degrees 6 months out of the year anymore. The heat build up under the hoods is tremendous and we have had to sit for hours waiting for the cool down so as to get the cars started again. This was another reason I thought maybe I should give in and put a elec.fuel pump on at least one car and see how it goes. I've always been a stickler for 100% original but maybe I need to give in. Your thoughts are valued !

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Hello Patrick -

I have read both your first and second emails to us and will consider both in the reply. Your question "what would Chris and you do" is a good one because if it did happen to one of our cars in Florida here we would certainly discuss the options. If your diagnosis is correct and the fuel pump eccentric has failed and become non operative for some unknown reason as you describe, Chris and I would be concerned as to what further problems a loose eccentric and its associated parts etc. could possibly cause to the front of the engine as you drive the car with an electric fuel pump installed. I think that I can truthfully say that these fuel pumps and actuator parts are not known to frequently fail when they are installed properly and torqued down correctly. I also realize that even the best assembled components can sometimes fail and surprise the best technicians.

You also indicate the frustrations that you are enduring with several vehicles due to the hot weather and your desire to try an electric fuel pump in order to find out if this would be a solution to the vapour lock issues. You and your mechanic are on location there in texas and he probably has experience with the modern inferior fuel problems that we are all experiencing with our older vehicles therefore I would say go ahead and try the electric fuel pump as an experiment but try to install it in a manner that would allow you to possibly remove it at a later date if you change your mind. I am also sure that your mechanic knows as we do here that the engine cooling system along with the cooling fan etc. must absolutely be in excellent operating condition for proper engine cooling in extreme ambient temperatures.

To sum up, if you and your mechanic are convinced that an electric fuel pump is the answer to the vapour lock in your location give it a try but we would be concerned what could develop later with the abandoned loose eccentric. Chris may have some further advice to add to this reply or he may send you a separate email. Good luck and please let us know what you decide to do.

Sincerely,

Bill

1966 Lincoln Coupe Brake Light Issues

Hello there Bill -

I just bought my 66 Lincoln Coupe 2 door. Been chasing a brake light issue. I checked the switch at the pedal it works. Then the relay under the hood seems to work when you push the pedal you hear the relay trip and it registers with a test light but in the trunk at the harness it does not register. The blinkers running lights all work fine though.

Any thought would be greatly appreciated.

DJ

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Hi DJ -

We have recently posted suggestions for solutions to other brake light problems on the blog for a 66 Lincoln. The posts basically advise how to follow the circuit from the brake switch and relay, through the turn signal switch and then out to the rear lights. Many owners do not realize that the brake light circuit involves the turn signal switch and this somewhat complex switch can fail in several ways. A wiring diagram therefore is a big plus in order to quickly diagnose this type of issue. You can easily link to these posts on our blog. Hope that this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 22, 2012

New 1966 Owner has questions...

Hi Bill,

My name is Brendon and I have recently purchased my land yacht from Modesto California for $2500 and it runs like a champ. I live in Vegas so I had a question about my oil leaking. Is there a thicker oil or something I can add to make a quick fix instead of dropping the oil pan and putting a new gasket?

The second question is, I just replaced my battery because it wasn't giving me enough cranking amps but held 12 volts, all my windows and everything worked before I replaced it with a new battery but now with the new battery installed my windows are very sluggish and my alternator light is always on would you have an idea as to why that would happen? And my final question, I don't have the window bypass switch or a core is there a way to bypass it? Or do I just leave nothing in it?? To allow all my windows to work.

Thanks,

Brendon

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Hi Brendon -

Good to hear that you are enjoying your recently purchased 66 Lincoln. They are great cars.

You don't say exactly where your oil leak is or how bad it is but using thicker oil in an engine to slow an oil leak really makes no sense because if you thicken it somehow enough to alleviate some of the leak it will probably soon prove detrimental to the actual necessary lubrication that some internal engine parts require. Thickening oil to slow down an oil leak is therefore not recommended. What does make sense though is to have a real good look at where the oil is leaking in order to find out if you have more than one leaking issue. Some of these leaks may be easy and inexpensive to repair.

Your second question says that everything worked fine before you changed the battery and now some of your electrical is sluggish. With that information I can only conclude that you have installed another battery that is in poor condition or that necessary wires were not reinstalled during the repair or that the alternator or regulator was damaged. Because this appeared immediately after the battery was changed you will need to carefully back track and recheck the installation and the related wiring. Keep in mind that all of the original ground wires are also very important here. If nothing is found to be wrong, the battery and the charging system would then need to be properly tested with the correct equipment.

Eliminating the power widow lockout/bypass switch is possible but is not necessary because we should have this part available for you. For further advice on this switch please contact Al at our warehouse and he can advise you according to what you want to do with this switch.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 17, 2012

1965 Continental Shifting Issues

Hello Bill,

I have a 1965 Lincoln Continental that will not shift out of 1st gear while driving. I recently replaced the intake manifold gaskets due to a coolant leak. Before I did this, I didn't have any issues with the transmission. Now there is no coolant leak at the intake manifold, but I have checked for a vacuum leak and the gauge shows 13-14 inches of mercury at idle. The manual says that it should be 18 inches of mercury minimal.

I have a few questions. First, is there any way to any way to correct the vacuum leak at the manifold without taking it back off? Second, would a low vacuum cause the issue with the transmission not shifting into higher gears?

Thanks,

B. Tucker

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Benjamin -

It is difficult to answer your first question regarding the vacuum leak because you don't say where at the manifold the leak actually is. If the leak appeared only after you replaced the gaskets though I would say yes it would need to be removed and checked for a gasket out of place or the possibility that the wrong gaskets were supplied to you. If you rotated the distributor during the manifold gasket replacement the resultant incorrect ignition timing can affect the vacuum gauge reading. If a vacuum fitting on the manifold was damaged or not reinstalled etc. etc. that alone could be the only cause of your low vacuum reading. The transmission does require vacuum in order to shift properly and in fact has its own vacuum supply from a fitting at or near the intake area to a valve known as the "Modulator Valve" at the rt. rr. of the transmission. This possible lack of vacuum and the possibility of the transmission kick down rod from the carburetor linkage to the transmission linkage being out of adjustment or not reinstalled will result in poor transmission operation. To sum up, a simple vacuum disconnect may be your only problem so I would advise you to diagnose very carefully before deciding to pull the manifold again. Good luck with a simple fix.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 7, 2012

1966 Brake / Directional Light Issues

Dear Bill,

I am writing to you in concern to a 1966 Lincoln Continental that a friend of mine is having a problem with. The problem is the rear passenger-side brake/directional light is staying on all the time and brake light switch was replaced and the problem still exists.

The driver's side brake light/directional lights do not operate at all. I am asking you for insight so that this problem may be rectify.

Thank you,

Amado

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Amado -
The rear brake lights receive power to the left and right rear bulbs through separate wires (left and right) from the turn signal switch. When the brake sw. is activated power travels from the brake sw. to the turn signal switch and depending if the turn signal switch is engaged or not these wires to the brake lights may or may not both receive power for the rear brake lights. Your description of the rt. rr. brake light staying on seems to indicate a problem with the turn signal switch itself or the wiring to the switch. If all the rest of the cars wiring is intact etc. a good test for you will be to unplug the t.s. switch at the lower steering column and then observe if the rt. rr. brake light then goes off. If the light does go off and the wiring from the plug to the sw. is o/k a new switch may be needed. If the light remains on with the t.s. sw. unplugged the body wiring from the plug to the rt. rr. brake lights will need to be traced for a short etc. with the aid of the correct wiring diagram. The correct wiring diagram and good automotive elecrical knowledge may be necessary as this circuit on these 66's can be complicated. Some vehicles have appeared at Lincoln Land with more than one fault and this of course makes diagnoses even more complicated. Keep in mind that a "four way hazard" flasher circuit as well as a brake light relay may also be involved in this issue. The turn signal switches though are usually the culprits with the symptom that you are describing. Also, there are two styles of turn signal switches on a 66 Lincoln depending on whether the car has a fixed or a tilt steering wheel. The installation of the switch for the tilt wheel style may be adjustable and if so should be checked for proper adjustment and operation before condemning the sw. itself.
I hope that the above helps you to a quick diagnosis. In the event that you require repair parts we will have these available for the job.

Sincerely,

Bill

May 3, 2012

The Old Thunderbird Fuel Sender Blues

Dear Uncle Bill,

Carter here, again.

In addition to the 67 4-dr I acquired in Florida at Lincoln Land last year, a 68 2dr Landau has found me and a new home. Turning into a very nice care, however; I have replaced the gas tank, and the fuel sending unit. The fuel sending unit twice... why? Because the first one sent the gas gauge to a point way past "full" and I thought it defective.... So, I order another one, same result. Help!

Your favorite nephew,

Carter

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Hi Carter -

If the other dash gauges are reading correctly and the new sending units that you have installed are not internally faulty I would suspect that the vehicle plug to the sending unit is not compatible with the new unit. You need to carefully compare the electricals on the original sending unit with the new ones that you are trying to install. I believe that there is some problem with some senders that was causing exactly what you are describing. Contact us at Lincoln Land Carter as you may need to send us your original unit as well as the new unit so that we can test both and configure the wiring on the new one to operate correctly for your car. "We'll git er done."

Sincerely,

Bill