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July 28, 2011

1965 AC Kicks In And Out - Update

Hello Bill -

I found the 20 amp breaker were you said it was and it is tripping out so i tried another breaker and it runs longer but still kicks out.I notice that there is a lite blue with red runner with the brown wire should this be there.Also since the breaker is kicking out this means to much amps is this right and what amps should i be seeing from the blower motor and then the AC compressor or is there some thing else i should check first that can cause problem.Also the black power wire is warm to touch and you said it can be ignition switch and the switch stud off the back of switch is warm to hot.please advise.

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Ron -

Slightly warm wires are o/k. Any wiring that becomes hot should be investigated. Since you have stated that the breaker only blows with the blower on high the blower could be drawing too many amps. If you have the equipment as well as the knowledge and want to do a draw test on the circuit, that test could be done at the breaker to the brown wire and the blue wire with the red tracer. I don't have a wiring diagram for that blue/red wire but it is possible that it is correct. Perform the draw test at that point with the a/c on and the blower on high. The breaker is 20 amps so the total amperage draw should not exceed 20 amps. If it does exceed or is close to 20 amps unplug the compressor clutch coil and recheck the draw. On start up the blower will draw 7-9Amps, then drop to 3-4Amps maximum while running. If it is still high turn the blower speed to a slower speed. By unplugging and controlling the load in certain combinations you may be able to isolate the excess power draw. I trust that you did install a New and not used breaker.
Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 25, 2011

1965 AC Kicks In And Out

Hey Bill -

I have a 65 Lincoln Continental I have been putting together and now I am getting the AC working and if the AC is on and the fan is on high the fan kicks out and compressor stops running. I can turn blower speed fan switch to low and go back to high and it works again then kicks out again. If I leave on low AC keeps running OK I can unplug compressor and run the fan on high and will not kick off. The compressor is new and don't know what amps the blower motor needs to be at on high. Then say it has a circuit breaker instead of fuse but don't know were this is at to see if it is kicking out and resetting. Have you seen this concern.

Ron -

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Hi Ron -

I agree with you on your diagnosis and that the circuit breaker is a good place to start testing. Use a 12v test light on each side of the breaker contacts when the a/c "cuts out" to find out if the breaker has actually failed. There are of course other possibilities such as too high a power draw from the blower or clutch coil but there is a good and better chance that the breaker has "fatigued" and will need to be replaced. This breaker feeds the a/c and heater circuit with a Brown wire and one Black Wire will be located behind the right kick panel inside the car. Test this breaker carefully and accurately as I have indicated and replace it if necessary with a new one. If the breaker tests o/k and does not open when the system cuts out the next step will be to test the blower switch as the a/c clutch power passes through this switch as well as the blower speeds. The whole a/c heater circuit receives power from the ignition switch and it also is a candidate for failure. In any case starting at the Circuit Breaker is a good any easy place to start. Please let us know how this works out for you and if any further advice, literature or parts are needed please contact us as needed.

Sincerely,

Bill -

July 18, 2011

77 Mark V Follow Up And New Questions

Bill -

I'm finishing up with my previous E-mail message to you about my Mark V stalling on the highway then restarts in a couple of minutes. Well................all of my electrical components were replaced, leaving just the fuel system to worry about. Before I spent the money on a fuel pump pressure test, however, I replaced the fuel filter. The old one seems to be ok (I could blow through it). Today I pulled my car out of storage after 4 years and drove it from Ocean Shores, WA to Tacoma, WA without any stalling problem. That Mark V is an absolute joy to drive.......one of my best cars of my life - ever.

Thanks for your advice Bill.

Tom -

P.S. Two more questions:

(1) Headlight covers will pop up after sitting awhile. Where is the usual vacuum leak located at?

(2) Although my front chairs will recline and straighten up.......and the lumbar system works as does all the other switches on my arms consoles..............neither seat will move forward or backwards. Apparently the same fuse control all systems...........so apparently this is not a fuse problem. Why then will my seats - both the driver & passenger seat - not move forward nor backwards?

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Hi Tom -

The vacuum headlamp cover system and its problems has been explained at length in several previous blog posts. The causes of failures can be more than one, so you can use the search feature on the blog to locate them.

As for the seats not working "fore and aft" or "front and rear tilt" etc. the problem "usually and commonly" turns out to be caused by dried out lubricant inside the seat transmissions etc. Sometimes these transmissions and gears can be TEMPORARILY freed up by lightly tapping the side of a suspected component. While these items are not serviceable - we could supply you with a good used assembly if needed. Other problems have been found sometimes in the switches, wiring and the seat motor areas. If you will need any of our available information literature to help diagnose any of the above please contact us at any time. Hope that the above helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

79 Mark V Power Issues

Good Morning,

I saw your postings on the internet and hoping you can help me.

The car has 118,000 miles on it. Everything is still original but hadn't started for 2 years.

I put a battery and gas in and started right up, however the front seats would "click" when the doors were open, but nothing was moving.

The next day I drove down the street to run some gas through it and this is where my problem starts.

Car sputtered when I got on the gas, I cranked it back up and then it sputtered and did the same thing. Knowing I need to get a fuel filter and also rebuild the carburetor.

Well my problem now is the car doesn't get power. I disconnected the power from the battery and re-connected it. When I did this, I heard the drivers seat "click".

I turn the key in the "on position and I get all my dash lights and the door buzzer. As soon as I turn the key once more, the drivers seat "clicks" , I get no dash lights and the car does not turn over.

I then shut key off and try it again....but this time I get no dash lights, no nothing. I have to physically disconnect battery then connect it again to get the "dash lights and the click in the seat"...again car does not turn on.

I went and bought/installed a starter solenoid and voltage regulator and still I get the same problems.

Gary

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Hello Gary -

The click sound from the front seats sounds like the normal sound of the seat back release solenoids. When the door is opened this feature enables a rear seat passenger to easily fold the front seatback forward in order to enter the rear seat area.

Your power problem sounds like the classic bad battery cable connection, bad battery cable or bad battery. The existing poor connection is able to handle an electrical load up to a point and then it heats and disconnects and at that point you have "no power" any where until you reconnect the battery again. You can start by fully servicing the battery cable connections and at the same time examining the condition of the cables. A battery load test and condition test may be a good idea at this time as well. Hope this helps.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 7, 2011

1988 Town Car Engine Rattle

Hi Bill,

I have a 88 Lincoln Town Car .... Love it !

The problem I have is a little bizarre... When the engine gets hot, the engine rattles like hell. It almost sounds like a card in a bicycle wheel spoke. I have owned many cars and trucks and have worked on them all, but have never heard anything like this.

When the car cools down ..... it's like nothing ever happened. I have changed the water pump, thermostat, and cooling lines. My next step will be to flush the coolant system. My mechanic mentioned a retarding system in the ignition to help cool the engine down, but I have never heard of this... Any suggestions? I'd love to hear some.

Thanks,

Bill
Upstate NY

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Greetings Bill -

I have not heard of a noise such as you are describing as many strange sounds need to be heard in person in order to try to diagnose them correctly. You also do not say if the noise can be heard only at idle or while driving. From your letter though you seem to believe that it is making this sound only when hot and that the engine is overheating. An overheated engine can indeed make strange noises and should be repaired ASAP. if it is in fact overheating.

Not knowing the maintenance history of your car two important items to consider are the Thermostatic Clutch on the engine cooling fan and the Radiator itself. This clutch unit is well known to fail and many technicians have been fooled by a cooling fan that appears to be cooling properly but in fact is not turning fast enough as designed because of a bad clutch. Your Lincoln is also old enough at this point to possibly have a radiator that is partially plugged enough to cause overheating. A radiator that is thought to be in a plugged condition would need to be disassembled and cleaned or re-cored. I am not familiar with a retarding provision on that vehicle help to cool the engine.

If the above does not appear to help and if you can provide us with some more information we may be able to help with further advice etc.. We do have parts on hand that you may require so please feel free to contact us at your convenience.

Sincerely,

Bill

July 5, 2011

1972 Continental Headlamp & AC Issues

Hi Bill -

We just bought a 1972 Lincoln Continental, all original. In great condition!! Couple little fixes and one of them is that the headlamps stay open when you turn off the car and the AC seems to blow cold, but then shuts off and then spurts cold air again.

The mechanic I took it to says we need to replace the valve fast idle cam (someone else called it a vacuum manifold?) its a 9 port and he says it controls the entire vacuum system.

I have read some of your older posts and wanted your opinion, we're having trouble finding the part. May have located an original.

Are we in the right direction on the repair, or any other suggestions? and any recommendations on where to get this part, or its part number?

Donna
Mammoth Lakes, CA

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Hello Donna -

Nice car to have! They look great and command plenty of attention. These two issues that you describe are not related and my opinions will be based of course only on the information that you have provided.

If your mechanic has diagnosed the vacuum headlamp cover issue correctly he is referring to the vacuum distributor that is located on the firewall on the engine side. It contains a vacuum valve that functions to lock vacuum in the Headlamp Cover vacuum circuit when the engine is off or at times of low engine vacuum. This valve can fail. We should have that item in stock in good used condition. Be aware however that any vacuum routing in the circuit also may be at fault and there could be more than one leak.

Your description "the AC seems to blow cold then shuts off and then spurts cold again" sounds like one of the two relays on the engine side of the firewall or its connection has failed. The High Blower Relay will operate the blower at high speed until the A T C begins to moderate to a point that the relay will hand over the High blower speed to the automatic lower blower speeds. It is at that point that these relays are well known to fail internally. We will have these in stock or we offer a service to test and rebuild your relays.

Again, the above is based only on your information as well as what we encounter here at Lincoln Land on a daily basis. Further diagnosis may be necessary. If we can help you further with any of the parts or services as described above or if you may require any Shop Manuals for your 72 Lincoln please do not hesitate to contact us again at any time. We do hope that the above helps you with your repairs.

Sincerely,

Bill