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March 28, 2011

1978 Mark V Mini-Vent Issues

Hey Bill,

I recently purchased a '78 Mark V with the power vent window option. The passenger window will lower fine but only the main window will go up and the vent glass will only move up a small amount (just the upper tip of the glass will come above the sealing strip). Is this an adjustment issue or do you feel the motor could be weak? If an adjustment issue where should I start.

Thanks,

Carman

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Hi Carman -

If the side glass is raising normally and quietly as you describe the motor should be o/k as this motor operates the side glass and the vent glass. Your first step should be to remove the door trim panel and inspect the mechanism. You will be looking for anything abnormal such as broken rollers, bent regulator arms or detached slides etc. We have found that there are several failures that can occur within the door. If you find that you cannot identify the problem and are unsure at that point you could then take your car with the trim panel removed to a trusted Automotive glass shop near your location and ask for their advice. This way you will at least save the labor charges to remove and replace the trim panel. Hope this helps you.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 25, 2011

1978 Continental Sedan Hard To Start

Bill -

To start my Lincoln, I have to pump the foot feed to get it started. After that it, starts OK. No big problem but would like to start after a pump or two. Thanks for any help.

Ray

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Hello Raymond -

Any cold engine that requires excessive accelerator pumping in order to start needs to have the carburetor choke inspected first for proper operation. When the engine is cold the choke valve (aka butterfly valve) should be closed tight to provide a rich mixture for starting. Upon starting the valve will open a small preset amount to lean out the fuel mixture and then continue to open slowly to the fully open position as the engine warms up. The choke on a cold engine will operate in this fashion in a cold, hot or warm climate. If the above does not occur you will then need to correct the choke circuit as required as per the shop manual. Of course all other basic engine ignition and fuel items must be in good operating order as well. I hope the above leads you or your mechanic to a speedy repair.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 22, 2011

1969 Mark III Oil And Coolant Leaks

Hello Bill,

I know you're a whiz at this Lincoln stuff!!! A couple years ago, you solved an A/C Relay issue on my '89 TC while I was down in Clearwater visiting!!

I have a 1969 Mark which has a couple mysterious leaks which I cannot find the root cause for.

One is an oil leak, which leaks only after I shut the engine off, and only a couple drops, but enough so that I can't park the car in the driveway. It appears to be coming from between the Power Steering pump and front cover. I do have the seal installed correctly, put in place from the front of the cover, and the seal is brand new.

The other is an antifreeze leak which is allowing a small amount of coolant to pool in the valley (at the top) of the front cover, which leads me to believe its the front cover gasket.

All this being said, the engine was completely rebuilt last year and every gasket, seal, component is BRAND NEW.

Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dan K.

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Greetings Dan -

Any of these kinds of leaks can sure be annoying and some can be tough to find. The oil leak can be easier to locate if you clean the area completely and then observe that location after shutting off a hot engine. There is a need to determine if the oil leak is engine oil or power steering fluid, of course it is best seen with the front end of the vehicle raised if possible. The front cover to power steering pump seal is best inserted into the cover clean, dry and coated with a good contact adhesive on the front cover side that dries quickly and completely. We highly recommend this procedure.

The coolant leak must be correctly diagnosed as well in order to not misdiagnose and end up dismantling assemblies that do not leak. Coolant leak areas should be closely observed with both a cold and a warm engine. Ideally the use of a cooling system pressure tester is best used to pinpoint the suspected areas. These testers provide the necessary pressure to diagnose without starting the engine. A good radiator shop should be able to do this procedure for you.

Always remember that ACCURATE diagnosis is half the battle. We hope that the above helps of course if we can help further with any parts or advice etc. please contact us further.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 21, 2011

1987 Town Car AC Questions

Hi Bill,

Thanks for all of your good work on this very interesting blog. Thought I would jump in with a question on my 1987 Town Car. While out on its Spring shakedown run I noticed that the climate control system was not working in the "FLOOR" position (no fan operation) even with the engine fully warmed up. The system works perfectly (air temp is fine and fan operation is fine) on all other settings (for example, I can get plenty of hot air to the floor in the "MIX" setting). Any thoughts? Is there something specific I should be looking for?

Many thanks,

Garry

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Greetings Garry -

Welcome to our blog. Your no "FLOOR" air delivery situation is a common and annoying problem. In 99.9% of the time this is caused by an unplugged or failed CELO (cold engine lock out) or also known as TBL (thermal blower lockout). This unit is located in one of the heater hoses under the hood and its electrical function is to prevent blower operation in the FLOOR position until the engine coolant reaches a predetermined temperature so as to preclude unpleasant cold air delivery until the heater is able to provide heated air as required.

The two heavy wires at this sensor can be jumped together to eliminate the "LOCKOUT" feature which will allow for immediate blower turn on at any engine temperature or the unit can be replaced in order to maintain the full Climate Control function. If you have any further questions or if you would like us to arrange for the new part to be sent to your address please contact us at your convenience. We hope this helps you an thanks for joining our blog.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 15, 2011

1970 Continental Modulator Pin

My 1970 Lincoln Sedan's C6 transmission switches gears a bit late. The 2-3 gear shift occurs normally as soon as the gas pedal is released, then acceleration can be resumed.

I have changed the modulator and made sure the downshift linkage was not at fault. No
change. The only remaining sources for this problem are the following: vacuum leak, worn seals, but there is also this: there was no metal rod (pin) in the modulator housing
when I changed it.. could this explain the problem? If so, do you sell this part?

I have some 1/8" steel wire, can I simply make a rod of this exact length? Second, I have this excerpt from a ford manual which says to "adjust the modulator to average weight" (its spring tension), is this indeed necessary? I don't know if my 1970 C6 has a shift kit however.

F.P.

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F P -

The pin is indeed vital for the modulator to operate and fits many many years of c6. The original p/n is C4AZ-7A380-A. It is 1"11/16 long and 1/8" thick. If you can't find one in your area we could supply one if necessary. Let us know and ask for Chris if you call as he is aware of this reply.

We don't make those pins here as you are thinking of doing because of course we have plenty from our parts cars. They don't break, shrink, rot, rust or burn out, etc. Therefore a used one is as good as a new one. It is too small and inexpensive a part to quibble over and discuss making one. You say that you do not know if your 70 Lincoln has a shift kit or not. We also do not this and I can't imagine anyone ever wanting to install one on a 1970 Lincoln. The real BOTTOM LINE here is that if yours is actually missing this pin as you say it is, just get one, install it and road test the car. If the pin makes it shift properly, great, you are done. If not then then you move on to the next step from there.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 10, 2011

1971 Mark III Aftermarket Carburetor Issues

Hello Bill -
I have a 1971 Mark III, when I purchased it, it had a Edelbrock carburetor on it and a spacer plate that looked like maybe it came from a t bird (aluminum with a rear tube and coolant pipe tube running through it on the right side). I purchased a 4300 carburetor and want the OEM spacer that belongs on the car now with the correct gaskets on top and below the spacer, a stud kit and stud for carburetor with correct wingnut. It looks like the OEM spacer was in the trunk but with a broken nipple end on the rear, this one was not aluminum and with just one nipple in the middle rear. I am guessing this is the correct setup, the nipple in the rear of the spacer is for the PCV valve hose is it not? Would it be the same if you connected the PCV valve hose to the nipple in the rear of the auto lite 4300 carburetor? If not what is the original set up for these fittings? I really would like a vacuum diagram for the engine compartment on this car the Ford-Lincoln manual I have really doesn't show vacuum routing diagrams on this 460 any way these parts I mentioned would help out great and also the choke heating tube gasket the tubes that come out of the assembly on the outside that are bolted to the intake manifold are two pipes that are broken off or cut at about 4 inches long. The pipe that is inside the manifold is fine and in good condition and I'm guessing one goes to the choke connector and the other one goes to the under side of the air filter assembly correct me if I'm wrong and I would like to know if this car or carburetor 4300 came with a dashpot for anti stalling I'm not sure on that either. I am a auto and truck mechanic just not a Lincoln Mark III mechanic LOL if that matters . Thanks so much for your time in advance.

Paul

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Hi Paul -

Welcome to the forum and congrats on your 71 Mark purchase. At Lincoln Land we see these carburetion modifications from time to time, but we don't really endorse them to any extent because of their inconclusive success history regarding gas mileage and or performance satisfaction etc. Almost all of our customers because of the nature of the Lincoln automobile hobby prefer to restore or maintain their vehicles to original.

At the present time, we do not have a car that we can photograph the details of the engine topside for you. If you have the Ford shop manuals you have the same information that we have. I can confirm that the original carburetor was a Ford 4300 and that it did have an anti-stall dash pot at the left front mounting stud. If you would like to send us some pictures of what you presently have on your engine and/or would like to discuss acquiring the original carburetion and emission parts, please contact us further and mention your blog inquiry as a reference.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 7, 2011

1978 Town Car Autolamp - Auto Dim Questions

Hello Bill,

I have a 1978 Lincoln Town Car I recently purchased that has a 2 part problem with the Automatic Headlight Dimmer/Delay system. The first is the autolamp feature, when turned on, regardless of the position of the switch for the delay, the headlights never turn on, but the parking lights and instrument panel do, but turn off instantly, no delay, when the ignition switch is turned off. The second is with the automatic dimmer, when it detects oncoming light it will put the lights in low beam but does not return the high beams back most of the time. What do you think?

Dave

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Greetings Dave -

Congratulations on your recent Lincoln purchase. The popular Autolamp and Automatic Dimmer options are a real nice luxury option to have but of course can be a real pain when they fail. The diagnostic procedures are very well presented in the Factory Shop Manual and would be a great item for you to have now and in the future. Without being there on site to actually diagnose the system for you I can only at this time offer you some of the problems that we have encountered with them here at Lincoln Land.

If the parking lamps and instrument lamps are turned on Automatically as you describe but the Headlamps are not, this is usually caused by a bad connection or contact located inside the Amplifier module. Of course any wiring involved in that circuit can also be suspect. This is the reason that a proper wiring diagram as shown in the manual is a real plus in order for you to troubleshoot and pinpoint your problem.

The Automatic Headlamp Dimmer system is notorious for developing failed Amplifier Sensor units that are located behind the left headlamp assembly. This unit is completely sealed and not repairable. Again the tests for this option are well shown in the manual.

I do hope that the above helps and if you do require any manuals, parts or further information. please do not hesitate to contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill


1979 Mark V Wiper Questions

Bill -

I'm enjoying your blog and have a question for you,,, My 79 Mark V has a wiper problem, I have bought another wiper motor and intermittent switch, is there anything else, like a timer box, that I may need to get the wipers working???

Thanks,

Mike

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Hello Mike -

We at Lincoln Land are real pleased that you are enjoying the blog. Your intermittent wiper system does indeed include an Electronic Control Module that is located under the dash and is in line with the Wiper Control Switch. Although this module is very well known to cause a problem such as you are describing we don't ever recommend to just "keep on replacing parts" without making the tests as shown in the Shop Manual. Of course we realize that if you do not have a manual or the necessary equipment etc. this may be the only way for you to proceed at this time. Other problem points to consider are as follows..... a poor ground circuit, an unplugged connector or a bad contact etc. somewhere that is causing the wiper system to receive no power at all.

Having said all of the above Mike, my hunch is that the above module is faulty as you already suspect. We can arrange at any time for one to be sent to your address whenever you are ready and if you need any further advice etc. in this matter please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 3, 2011

1971 Mark III Transmission Fluid Change

Hi Bill -

I am busy replacing the oil of my transmission, and to do this in a correct way they told me to also empty the converter. I have removed the cover plate on the front of the transmission so I can see the converter. I turned the converter a couple times to look for a plug or something what looks like a plug . Now I saw something that looks like some kind of a plug , it is very small (smaller than the normal bolts on the converter) and it has a square type of bolt . It does not look like a normal bolt with 6 sides, this only has 4 sides (square). Is this the plug I need to empty the converter? I hope you can help me.

Best regards

Ray
The Netherlands

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Ray -

Excellent idea to drain the converter as well as the pan. This image is from our 66 manual and will show you the orientation of the drain plug. Although the drain plugs that we see are six sided and requiring a 7/16" wrench, yours could indeed be square. We hope that this information helps you.


Sincerely,

Bill

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