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November 29, 2010

Warming up the 1973 Continental....

Hi Bill

I have a '73 Continental with a 460. The problem is that it takes around 20 minutes to warm up the engine. When I go and take the highway the coolant temperature starts dropping into the cold zone and stays there until I stop for a couple of minutes and it starts warming up again. I've replaced the thermostat, but I can't think of anything else that could cause this problem. I need some help.

Thanks,

Steve

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Hi Steve -

Welcome to the Lincoln Land Blog. The function of the thermostat is to regulate the temperature of the engine as you already know. I like to see these gauges read somewhat above 1/4 and definitely under 3/4 at full operating engine temperature. It is necessary that the thermostat be of a good quality and should have a rating of 190 degrees. If your thermostat meets the above specifications and the engine does not seem to heat up properly according to your dash indicator, then the gauge circuit itself needs to be properly tested for accuracy as per the Shop Manual. If you require further information on the above or a shop manual please contact us at any time.


Sincerely,

Bill

1989 Town Car AC-Heat Concerns

Hi!

I'd appreciate any ideas re: A/C cooling O.K. Heating on at any position and we get steam in the car. In the VENT position if the control is in the cool area we get cool air coming in. If it's in the warm or hot position we get hot air.

Have a diagram for the vacuum hook up??

Thanks,

Gary

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Hello Gary -

Steam in the vehicle from the AC / Heater unit is almost always an indication of a leaking Heater Core or its immediate tubing. The leaking coolant is evaporated as the air passes through the core and then distributed into the vehicle from the AC vents, the floor ducts or the defrost ducts as a vapor. Only a small tiny leak can produce this effect and you may not even notice a drop in the vehicles coolant level. A new heater core is the answer for this problem. The vacuum diagram and all of the procedures are shown in the necessary Shop Manual. We are posting the AC / Heat vacuum schematic for your convenience. If you need any further assistance such as parts or manuals etc., please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

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November 11, 2010

1977 Continental with multiple issues....

Hello Bill,

I have a 1977 Lincoln Continental Town Coupe. It has a couple of issues, some I have addressed, some successful and other not so. Installed new, not refurbished carburetor, new master cylinder, battery and A/C compressor and have the A/C system converted to the new R-12 coolant. My lingering issues are brake light came on on the dash, break pedal seems to be not as positive as before, car still does not start as it should by setting the choke as instructed in owners manual. I have to pump and pump the gas to get it to start. A/C still does not blow cold; I have a shutter when I apply power to the car. I checked the drive shaft and the two piece drive shift universal joints seem loose is the fix, to just change all four joints? Another question is do I have to take the steering wheel off to get to the light bulbs behind the gauges behind the dashboard?

Thanks,

Ted

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Hi Ted -

Those 77's are real nice running cars and when all of those problems that you are describing are eliminated from your car yours will be too. The brake light warning light remaining on is USUALLY one of the following. 1) Improper bleeding of the hydraulic brake lines, or failure to bleed at all after repair. 2) Loss of hydraulic pressure in the front or rear lines. 3) Internal failure inside the brake master cylinder. We have never needed to remove the steering wheel to change any bulbs behind the dash although some bulb changes may be difficult.

Your other problems can only be diagnosed with more information from you or actually seeing and hearing the component operate. For instance, for your Air Conditioning problem the R12 refrigerant that you mention IS in fact the original refrigerant. There are several substitutes being used by AC shops and I do not know what was installed in your system or the condition of the other components in your AC system. These AC systems are diagnosed with the use of AC gauges hooked up to the high side and low side lines and the pressures are checked and evaluated along with the outlet temperature at the vents inside the car. The problem could be a control problem or an actual refrigeration problem. Any one or more of a dozen or so faulty conditions are possible here that can cause poor AC performance. Your other symptoms also require knowledgeable on scene diagnosis by competent technicians. If we can receive detailed information from you regarding these problems, we may be able to assist you further.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 9, 2010

1962 Continental Runs Rough After Warm Up

Hi Bill,

I have a 62 continental that runs fine when it is cold, but after it warms up, and I drive it a few miles, it begins to run very rough, almost like some cylinders are not firing.. I've replaced the plugs, wires, cap and rotor, but that did not help. It is even more pronounced when I brake, the whole car shakes violently. This circumstance sometimes fades away after awhile and then comes back, but the car always runs fine initially. Any ideas?

Thank you,

John
San Jose, CA

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Greetings John -

Your statement "It is even more pronounced when I brake, the whole car shakes violently" is a big clue here. When you brake you are actuating the Power Brake Booster and it is applying the brakes with the use of engine vacuum. The booster is supplied vacuum from the intake manifold via a large vacuum hose. If the Booster is leaking internally during such times as a brake application, a large amount of vacuum will be depleted from the manifold. When this occurs the proper air/fuel mixture will be greatly upset to the engine so as to cause your violent shaking. Your power brake unit needs to be inspected as a first step John as soon as possible according to your above statement and my suspicions.

I also would also advise checking the condition of the ignition points and condenser along with the vacuum advance. This checking should include the dwell meter test of the points and the engine timing as well. We hope that the above helps you John. If you have any further information on your problem or require any parts for your repair please contact us at any time.

Sincerely,

Bill

November 1, 2010

1958 Window Issues

Hello Bill,

My name is Mike, and I live in Houston,Texas. I had a question regarding my '58 Continental.

When I got the car, all the power windows worked and would roll up and down from the switches. The rear breezeway window was frozen to the tracks. I took the backseat out and got the window unstuck. I was using a 12 Volt car battery and jumper wires directly to the window motor to roll the window up and down. Immediately after I put everything back together, I tried rolling the other windows down from the switch and nothing works anymore. I am thinking I fried a fuse or breaker of some sort, but have been unable to locate a fuse box in this car. Any idea where it may be or what may have caused this to happen? Any information you could give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You -

Mike

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Hello Mike -

The 58-60 Lincolns and Marks are great cars, and excellent cars to have and enjoy today. Because they were very innovative and constantly evolving during their production it is necessary for you to have the maintenance manual to diagnose and repair many items. A manual will pay for itself many times over. The circuit breakers and fuses can be fatigued at this time and certain switches can be internally corroded etc. We are going to send you the wiring diagram for the power window circuits for you to use. We need to know first however if yours is a 4 door or a 2 door as the wiring is slightly different. Please let us know so that we can send this info. to you as soon as possible. If you wish to order a manual instead please contact us and we can arrange for one to be delivered to your address.

Sincerely,

Bill