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March 22, 2010

1970 Mark III Instrument Panel Lights

We thought we'd share a resent inquiry from one of our regular customers, as this can be a common problem.... Bill.

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Chris -

I noticed on the 70 white Mark III that the instrument panel lights were not coming on when I turned on the parking lights or the headlights. I replaced the 6 amp fuse and they still did not work. I checked the fuse and found it had gone bad. I put in another new fuse and tried the lights again and still no instrument panel lights. I pulled that fuse out and found that it had gone bad.

Would you or any of your guys have any idea what in the instrument panel light circuit might be blowing out the fuse? Both other cars work fine. Is there any particular area I could have the guys at the shop look at to determine what the problem might be? I've got a copy of the Mark III's electrical system schematic so I can use that with the shop if you have any ideas on what to check.

Otherwise, I hope things are going well at Lincoln Land. Won't be long and we'll be heading to Ocala. I did order an entry level Pace American enclosed car hauler trailer so I hope to have it for the trip down. That should save a lot of cleaning effort!

Take care,

Jerry

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Jerry -

That 6 Amp fuse is for the dash instrument panel lights and any others that may be on the instrument panel dimmers (light blue with red tracer) wire such as radio dial and climate control illumination, etc.

The first suspect in my opinion could be a shorted wire that goes up the steering column to the transmission quadrant shift indicator. Have this wire unplugged at the lower column and then try another fuse. Things at Lincoln Land are looking great and the weather is turning for the better.

Bill

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Bill,

Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try this week and let you know.
Take care,

Jerry

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Chris,

If you are in the proximity to "Bill's Corner," please pass on my thanks to him for his excellent advice regarding the instrument panel lights not working in the white Mark III. I was out at the hangar last night and was able to disconnect the wire going up the steering column as he suggested. After putting in a new 6 amp fuse, I turned on the parking lights and much to my delight the instrument panel lights and other lights on that circuit came on just like they are supposed to. Obviously, the light for the shift indicator did not come on but that's no big deal.

I appreciate all the assistance -- and I'll holler at you if I get in over my head again!!!

Jerry

March 18, 2010

1971 Mark Turn Signal And Horn Issues

Hi Bill -

I have a question about a turn signal lever. My turn signal lever of my 1971 Mark III (tilt steering) is broken (common problem!). My car has a turn signal lever with cruise control. Now I can buy a turn signal lever with out cruise control, will this fit my car?? To be honest, I do not care if my cruise control will work anymore because I never use it anyway! But will it fit?

I also need some help with my horn (rim blow) this is not working! Can you give me some direction where I have to start looking? I hope to hear from you.

Thanks!

Ray

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Hi Ray -

You should have no problem using a conventional turn signal lever as a replacement. Of course you then would need to make other arrangements to operate the Speed Control if you ever wanted it to operate again.

To find out if the Rim Blow insert is faulty, remove the horn pad and momentarily short the wires together. If the horn then works, the problem is probably in this insert switch. There is one available on E-bay at this time #300407403513. They are rare.

We wish you Good Luck
Bill

March 15, 2010

1961 Fuel Delivery Issues

Bill -

I just ordered a shop manual from you yesterday as I purchased a nice '61 Sedan in Cooper City FL and drove it to Kentucky last weekend.

After 100+ miles on the highway at about 70MPH it develops the old "flat on it's face, out of fuel" symptoms. If I feather the throttle to the next filling station and fill it up it suspiciously takes 11.3-11.5 gallons and runs fine 'til next time.

I'm thinking there may be a crack in the pickup tube in the tank about 1/2 way down and when the gas drops to that level it sucks air. Ever heard of it and does it sound reasonable to you?

Thank You,

JL

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Greetings JL -

Congratulations on your Lincoln purchase and also your purchase of the Manual. The Manual will pay for itself many times over.

After reading your post a few times and realizing that we both may have no knowledge of any previous repairs to your fuel system, an inspection of the fuel sender and pick-up tube is indeed a good place to start. At Lincoln Land we have seen these units appear in our shop with all sorts of problems such as clogged tubes, tubes bent and out of alignment, severely corroded and leaking, etc.

These units are removed from inside the trunk and are usually easy to deal with. A complete inspection of the fuel lines and hoses as well as the fuel filter could be next on your list. If you do not uncover any problems with the any of the above items, contact us again for further suggestions. Good luck on a speedy repair.

Bill

1973 Carubetor Issues

Bill,

I just got a 1973 Lincoln Continental and I need to replace the carburetor. My question is there is not a tag on the carburetor on the car. I have had a time trying to find a good replacement, as I don't know the tag number. I have found a NOS carburetor for sale, the tag number on it is D5PE-AB, they say it's boxed as a CA688C, but see CA788C marked on the box in their picture. Would this work on my Lincoln? If not do you know of a supplier for a good replacement carburetor. Also where can I find a good cross reference for part numbers for items I may need down the road.

Thanks for your help,

LC
Ogden, UT

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LC -

Assuming that your 73 is original and complete with it's 4300 carburetor, any one from a 68-74 Lincoln with a 460CID engine should be OK as they are all basic 4300 series carburetors. The Part Number D5PE indicates a 1975 style which should be a 4350 series and will not fit. The CA688 and CA788 Part Numbers are early Motorcraft numbers and could be OK and perfectly fine but I do not know what these boxes actually contain. They could be defective, boxed wrong or someone's rejects, etc. I would consider overhauling my original if possible if a replacement cannot be found. If you would like to have cross reference catalogs, or any such information it would be wise to watch eBay, flea markets, etc. That material is out there but you may need to buy a package deal to get what you want. If we can assist you further in this matter please don't hesitate to contact us.

Bill

March 10, 2010

The Old Grind

Hi Bill,

I have a 1961 Lincoln Continental. I was having issues with the Fuel Pump, so I went through and changed the Fuel Pump, Pushrod, Fuel Filter, and all of the soft lines under the hood. It started right up with no problems. I drove it around for a few days, and everything worked fine.

My issue is after a couple days my battery managed to die, because my parking lights did not shut off. So I say, "I'll just charge my battery and everything will be OK" . Well, that's not the case. Upon trying to start the car with a fully charged battery, I hear a really loud grinding noise, and the car won't start. The grinding is so loud, it hurts ME to hear it. The starter is brand new and for the correct year. Any Ideas on what went wrong? Your help is greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Emanuel
Santa Clara, CA

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Hi Emanuel -

Yes...... Sometimes the car hobby can really be a Grind. It is hard to tell from your E-mail if the noise is from the starter drive trying to engage to a bad ring gear on the flywheel or if the starter is actually cranking the engine and it is trying to start. Also, a battery that is only partly charged can cause the starter solenoid to buzz. Some noises are hard to describe to another person and so a buzz could described as a grind or a mash etc. Even though you are saying that the starter is new and the battery is in fact fully charged there is obviously something wrong. Because I can't be sure of the actual condition of the battery I would remove it and take it to a trusted auto parts store and have them evaluate it with their test equipment. After you are absolutely sure of the battery and the engine still emits a terrible noise as you describe during starting, you will need to determine if it is coming from the starter. If it is, the starter will need to be removed and inspected (new or rebuilt parts do fail). At this time the ring gear can also be seen and inspected with the starter removed. Keep us posted and contact us further if you do not find the problem.

Sincerely,

Bill

March 8, 2010

1970 Mark III Heater Core Headaches....

Hi Bill -

I have been working on my 1970 Mark III and have almost removed the cover under the hood where the heater core is located. It leaks and I want to either repair or replace it. I thought I would check out the evaporator as well. The manual I have been using tells me that there are two studs on the inside of the fire wall and that when I take the nuts and washers off, the evaporator can be removed. I have removed the glove compartment container and all I can see are wires, connectors and vacuum hose. Can you give me some direction on where to look for these studs? Also, what manual would you recommend for this repair?--maybe my manual does not show or tell me enough.

Thanks,

Gregg in Temple City, CA

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Hey Gregg -

The heater core leaks are popular but the evaporators have proven to be durable. If you would like to remove yours there are indeed two studs located under the dash as explained in the FoMoCo manuals that we sell and recommend. For your convenience we are including an attached picture from the 69 Mark III manual that shows these studs. If you require any further information or any parts etc., please don't hesitate to contact us.

Sincerely,

Bill

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March 2, 2010

72 Mark IV Sure-Track Concerns

I am considering purchasing a '72 Mark IV that I test drove today from a local dealer. It has an issue that I would like some information about, though. The "Sure-Track" light is on in the instrument cluster.....I understand that it is brake related, but what would cause the light to be on, the brakes seemed to work pretty well.

Thanks,

Tom C.

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Hi Tom,

That light usually illuminates because of a hydraulic pressure differential between the front and rear brakes and could indicate a leak or a bad master cylinder. To prove that this switch is in fact turning on the warning light because of a problem you can unplug the wiring at the switch and observe if the light remains on.

The switch and wires should be easily seen under the master cylinder in the brake line. If the light goes out, it may be indicative of a brake problem or that the switch is sticking after a previous repair. If the light remains on, you could be experiencing a problem with Sure Track module itself.

Brake procedures and warning light operations are outlined in the shop manual. If you need further information, parts or manuals please contact us at any time. Good luck.

Sincerely

Bill